iXtreme

Well, all done, used 12GA. low voltage cable and gold plated bananna plugs and pins for the connects. Well.... looks better anyhow. No difference in sound so far. I cut small holes in the wall 3 ft. up and put nice covers in them and ran the wire down thru the wall to conceal. I am going to scan some pics of my HT setup.... I will bet I have the cleanest install around I am a total anal retentive guy. I'd love to see some other neat setups... ie:tidy wiring and speaker cabling. Any takers for this?

Hey!! I found a great way to make my work mates bose AM15 sound really good!! I took some really big speaker wire, like 4 ga. or something.... wrapped it around all the speakers enuff till I could only hear the neighbours stereo. Volia.... better sound..... I wish his remote would reach the neighbours as they only like Backstreet boys.

These speakers are from RCA mini systems actually. Seeing as we are actually a farm/industrial retail chain and farmer brown dosen't care about fidelity they are not bad. They do actually sound good for shelf component audio. One 6" bass driver, one 2-1/2" mid driver and two piezo tweeters. I personally don't find them good enough for my living room, but the 6 in my garage on that old 8-track Lloyds multiplexer reciever are damn great This message has been edited by iXtreme on 07-15-2001 at 09:05 PM

I was wondering, would the low voltage 14/2 cable primarly used in noma moon ray lighting work well with bananna plugs and gold plated pins as speaker cable? Looks like it has heavy insulation and shiny copper? Any ideas??? Please respond soon as I want to do this real soon (upgraded wiring on my HT)

Ha-ha (in a "Simpsons" Nelson sounding voice) Sorry... had to do it and I'm not sure I'm the only one J/K man, have patience for a proper product with little or no defects.

The rated power of the Klip satts. is 60 watts RMS X 4. However in real life music I was told it was more like 40-50 watts. Most 4.1 systems on the main stream market are way underpowered for 40 watts.

We got some new speakers at my work a while back. Believe it or not... these things are Kevlar. Yellow weave in color with a black concave poly dust cover. They sound kinda crappy as they were from mini-hifi's. But these are true "bullet proof" speakers. I took a test woofer already in a box and hit it quite hard with the tip of my bic ballpoint as it's box was borked anyway. These things are almost in-penetrable. Some actually sound quite nice for use in a garage or as outside party speakers. Too bad the amps didn't come too, would been cool to experiment with a cheapo amp

The power switch is NOT on the back of the sub. It's on the control pod only. The pod is the dial box with the surround/sub/main dials on it.

I am using a SB Live Value and a Creative 52X CD-Rom. The device manager says both are installed correctly with no conflicts. Yet when I listen to a CD and it comes to an end and restarts at track 1 the rear channel of my 4.1's cut out... pressing stop then play again re starts them.... any ideas what to look at? I am using the default playcenter as my player as well as the P.C. 2 and the Digital player for SB Live provided by music match. All do the same thing. They do it on my FPS 2000's too so it's not the speakers? This message has been edited by iXtreme on 07-09-2001 at 02:16 AM

You missed my point totally, it easily 747'd you. He was claming that wires have no effect, and to go buy quality speakers like the videologic's if you want a smoother response overall. My point was that HIS claimed better speakers use "better" than normal wires too, arn't these a product he said was useless unless you had some really high end HT speakers or original defective wires? If they were not really needed then why god, oh why do they ship with these. And sirroccos are by no means true HT quality so they too would be cheap speakers no? I can see what the problem is now though, ANYONE upset about the wire-mod either (a)did it wrong, or (b)spent way too much money to make the semi transparent improvement worth it. I however fall under neither of these as I am a shrewd dealer in the electronics store No really.... I got my Pro's for an astounding $345.46 CD dollars taxes in ($226.84 US) after the buffalo bucks purchase(too long a story for here) and my interconnects at 24K for pins and 16ga. OFC cabling for under $10 Canadian. I'd respend all of it in a second. As well I have a few audio installers who could care less about how much was spent as they are paid hourly for installs only who say they also know of the benefits of better connects. Take a peek at most if not all sub boxes, tower speakers and any other high power audio product... they all have big connectors and they are all gold plated...... maybe there is something there that you refuse to see. This message has been edited by iXtreme on 07-09-2001 at 02:05 AM

TeeHee, As we all can see... the ever intelligent someguy has been telling us that cables are not important, but that buying better speakers like the crossfires are the answer. Here is a quote from the review/manual for the crossfires. The manual is very very uninformative but here goes: ------------------------------------------------------- The speaker wire that is included is first quality. Some other manufacturers forget to include low resistance wires. A high resistance can result in a loss of audio quality. The relative resistance of the given lengths of wire (8m sections for the rear channels and 2m for the sub and 2 front channels) are: 8m (26.6ft) : 1.95 Ohms x 2 pieces 2m (6.6ft) : 0.5 Ohms x 3 pieces All of the dual RCA phono to 1/8" jack connectors are gold plated for minimal interference. Gold has a an extremely low temperature coefficient of 0.0034 while copper has a temperature coefficient of 0.00393. All coefficients are taken at 20C. Some people cry if they do not have digital outputs. For a loosely engineered speaker system digital outputs would be beneficial. For impeccably engineered products, like the Sirocco Crossfire, digital outputs are something that you do not need as the degradation of audio quality is minimal through the use of premium audio connectors and low resistance speaker cables. ------------------------------------------------------- HeHeHe, maybe you should go tell them they are wrong too. All these stupid A** manufacturers and speaker cable companies. Who woulda thought you'd out smart em' all. You may think that this is just a review and the reviewers are wrong... THEN my un-informed friend... WHY do they package special wiring if it really dosen't matter what is being used as long as it's not defective? Here is the url if you'd like to re read what I have posted. Man I hate being so right all the time http://www.bxboards.com/siroccocrossfire.shtml This message has been edited by iXtreme on 07-08-2001 at 11:47 PM

Depends, If you want bass you can feel thru the floor, get down firing, if you want bass in your face and chest, get side firing. For THX and others I've heard both and the real impact comes from down firing. I'm not like the rest though.... I'm not a sub pussie just wanting it to be barely there and hardly hearable, I want it arrogant in sound My side firing dual sub sux compared to my single downfiring, my down is a Cerwin Vega and my dual side is a Klip. too bad there

I have an SB Live and when I listen to CD's everything is fine till the CD ends and goes back to track one.... then the rear channel goes out. All I do is push stop and then play again and all is better, maybe this may be your problem?

My HT system has a C.V. 10" 100 watt downfiring sub. As you all know the Klip 4.1's are side firing. I now have heard both and think that down firing gives more of the cool floor rumbling then side firing does. IMHO. I was wondering if using brass spikes would better couple the 4.1's sub to the floor for more of a downfiring effect. I may not have a the subs sweet spot yet but due to unusually short cables on the control pod it's hard to have many options in placement without extra cables. Any ideas to better couple the sub to the floor would be greatly appreciated.

To clarify, the distortion of metals is simply put. If you had two pieces of sheet metal, say 12" x 12" each and hit them together on end they would cut into each other. If at the point of deepest cut you could pause that you'd find no oxygen. As it has been forced out by the marrige of the two pieces under force. Oh, and I placed my digital multimeter on two pieces of wire, each exactly the same length at 10ft. One wire was my upgrade and the other was none other than the factory Klip wire. I must attest first that both wires were tested to see if they work and both do. The ohm reading test showed 0.1 for the Klips and 0.00 for my upgrade. Negligible yes, but different none the less. I then hooked the right rear on Klip wire and the left rear on my upgrade wire, the right rear had no mid-range speaker movement and the left did. So I took out the Klip wire and put my upgrade back on and restarted the song. (the song was Slow and Low by the B. Boys) Well..... the movement came back on the right rear mid-range. That can't be blamed on faulty wire from Klip as sound does transfer thru them. My diagnosis, the upgrade did some good, no!!?? How can you argue that except to disbelieve. All this is here to do is prove that your theory on no change what-so-ever is not accurate. I may not have all the knowlege you do but it bugs you that a rookie like me had a disagreement with you and was right. Next I guess your going to tell me that line level interconnects don't make any difference like S-Video and digital coaxial RCA's. My video switch box allows me to switch between single RCA video wire to S-Video and although the sharpness stays the same the colors are more vivid and rich. Cables make a difference period. This message has been edited by iXtreme on 07-06-2001 at 02:30 AM

Personally i think that someguy is a blowhard. How is it physically possible to take factory small gauge wires and replace them with heavier better quality copper wiring and terminate them with better ends and get no difference. That is impossible to not get a difference. Klipsch uses better wire on their new reference design but i guess you know better than their engineers with 50+ years experience. And you may think their crappy computer speakers but they are NOT ht and compared to all other P.C. speakers out there these very high end, if not the top end. You sound disgruntled... seems as if life came along and took a big meaty dump on you. Take care and ease up will ya' while I enjoy my life. If what you were saying <u>WERE</u> true, then Lucasfilm specs for THX systems and theaters as well as reference Acoustic Research and Monster Cable to name a few would all be con- artists. Personally I like the quality of all three so I somehow think your a bit off center here. Standard speaker wire is not 99% true copper too, it's mixed with tin where as quality OFC has no tin content and therefore better conductivity. To make a connect oxygen and tarnish free requires more than solder, the connect must distort the two metals together (pin and speaker cable) This the only <u>true</u> oxygen free connect and pressure crimping 24K pins to copper wire does just that. That and an amplifier only pushes the power that the volume control knob tells it to do, so..... better wires (more conductivity) would be less work for an amplifier as the amplifier would try just as hard to push 300 watts thru bad wire as good wire. Resistance makes heat. As you know, you can neither create nor destroy energy, just change it so, better wire=better sound=better conductivity and a cooler amp. You are right that the sub should have heatsinks and fans.... totally right on there, but better wire and connects can not hurt anything and will give some improvement, maybe small as I said but it WILL be better. No need to respond to this as we don't agree, never will and thats fine with me. I have my now moving mids as proof that it did something. Perhaps you saw no difference cause you did a crappy job at the upgrade?? This message has been edited by iXtreme on 07-05-2001 at 04:34 PM

I think your talking out of your butt again. Making a cable and connector change will for sure make a difference, maybe small but still a difference. Pure OFC cable has less resistance throughout making signal transfer easier. Adding 24K pins to the sub end keeps bare wire from eventaully tarnishing so hence a better connect in the long run. Better 1/8 jacks are way better machined to fit the socket better thus a better contact with less oxygen inside. You want stories... here's one..... the gravel road will get you there sure but it's dirty and bumpy. The paved road is clean and smooth. Remember, your opinion is just that, your opinion. These are the facts, the better the signal path, the better the signal at the end product. Less work for the amp to push thru... less resistance from poor wires. Wires actually have to be balanced ect.... I changed my wires and connects today and there IS a difference, the mids actually move now... with factory wires they never moved. There's your proof that it does make a diff.

Of course they will. If you look at the 5.1 pic the foot stands on the sats. are the same and as you know the screw holding the foot on is a standard thread...... so if both have the same foot then both will fit the same wall bracket.

Contrary to what some blow hards say, 18 ga. wire is plenty fine enough for 60 watts of power. But if you want pretty then 16 ga. is good for that. Monster cable is set in ga. too yes, but the standard off the spool at the local electronics store is good too. If you don't believe me have a peep at the wire inside any speaker to see how small it is so a fire hose feeding a garden hose is not really any better no ??!! Also the cd audio wire to sound card I think is 24 ga. so 16 is overkill. Bananna is totally different than 1/8 phono jacks. A hobby store will have 24K. 1/8 audio jacks for sale cheap I believe. The lenght, well..... impossible to determine without seeing your set up. Remember go as short as you physically can, shorter speaker cables are better.

Seems I've re found a new problem. Seems with burnt or un burnt cd's that when the last track plays to a finish and the cd re starts at track one the pop that is made shuts off the back channel. Who knew!!?? This message has been edited by iXtreme on 06-30-2001 at 02:50 PM

The only thing that I see so far as a problem is the rear channel of the system cuts out or gets so quiet that I cannot discern it over the front channel ??!! Anyone have any ideas?

I have been what you could say a non believer for some time now as to how good the pro media 4.1's really are. I had a set of Cambrige Soundworks 2000 digital. I went out today and bought myself a set of Pro Media 4.1's I thought I would come here and pay homage to the builders and lovers of Klipsch. These things are the most amazing computer speakers I have EVER heard. I paid 500.49 Canadian for them and would easily pay more for this kind of audio if I had to heheheh..... well..... anyways... thank you klipsch and thank you music... peace out.....

I have read some pretty interesting stuff on this forum. I am going to bring up a new-to-this-forum brand name for everyones consideration. Cerwin Vega. I have a set of e708's for the front, a set of matching for the rear (overkill for now but when I get the e706's the 8's will make a great b channel) and a e76c for center effects. I have also added a ht10 for bass effect. With the 3dB gain from the tuned ports to the beefieness of the whole cabinet(s) the THX intro theme has never sounded so good. I used to use Audiosphere Research but the C.V's blow em' away. All powered by a Technics SADX940 dolby digital 5.1 / dts reciever with digital optical cable. Wow.... Any comments about C.V. I'd love to hear em' BTW cables are a huge part, don't skimp on the low level input cables, the difference from standard nickel to monster 24k interconnects is astounding.

I am having difficulties deciding here. I have test drove the pro media 400's at Advance here in Canada. The bass was boomy (coolness) but the crackle on idle was overwhelming and it was on a SB Live Platnium. I have owned many a speaker in my time for the PC, from the $7 crappy included ones to two types of Altec's 3 peice systems to my current Caimbridge digital FPS 2000's. I've seen alot of complaints towards over heating of subs to crackling which I can relate to already to a few other difficulties. Why do none of the speakers I've ever owned crackle. BTW bass output of these FPS 2000's is kinda weak just like you've heard but the surround is incredible especially with a digital cable. Your opinions are what I am looking for, please help.....