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About theluggman

  • Birthday 05/11/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Caledon Ontario Canada
  • My System
    Thorens 160MKII Ortofon 540 MKII MM cartridge
    McIntosh C-26
    Denon DCD-2000AE
    Magnum Dynalab tuner
    Bryston BDA-1 DAC
    Wadia 321 DAC
    XBMC/Kodi on Ubuntu
    Marchand XM-9 Electronic Crossover
    2 Antique Wave 8 tube amps
    Bryston 3B ST
    Klipschorns Walnut 1986

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  1. or do the best of both worlds; Bi-Amping I know I know... but it was the best thing I have done since acquiring a pair of K-Horns 8 tube watts powering the mids and tweeters 120 SS watts driving the woofers Bryston 3B ST, damping factor >500=TIGHT bass Plenty I mean Plenty of power, what did you say you were mumbling.
  2. Bi-amping my Klipschorns was the best thing I did in my 30+ year audio journey. Using an active crossover, utilizing a pair of tube amps for the highs and SS for the woofer. Basically this gives a sweeter warm mid and highs as well as allowing a higher damping factor SS amp for stronger AND tighter bass. Having an active crossover allows easy adjustment of matching levels, and if possible timing can also be corrected.
  3. Hey penman are you still using this setup? I just acquired the EC-4 and was looking into what capacitors/capacitance to get to cross at 400 hz from what I can gather the caps should be about 4000pF is this what you used? Currently I am using a Rane crossover a lot better than no bi amping but I am anxious to use the AR
  4. When I finally got an electronic crossover and a pair of mono block tube amps I took the plunge, big solid state for the woofers (High Damping Factor) and 8 watts for the mid/tweeters BEST THING I did! Second only to getting the K Horns to begin with! Smiles and satisfaction every time I sit down and listen
  5. I know now at least I know where I can go for solid advice
  6. Yes we do it's Theluggman Glad you didn't get offended, it's easy for us to say these things to you because we don't have to live with her if you were to repeat them to her. I would never get offended again thanks for the support I am going to tell her I going looking into crack maybe a less offensive addiction LOL
  7. Thank you all for the support!!!! You are all right, I am keeping them very funny replies as well I am very glad I posted this I knew I would get the support I needed Yes they are now reattached Schu They are 1986 Walnut K'horns
  8. I love my Bi-amped Klipschorns but the spouse hate factor is too high! What do I do??!!
  9. Has anyone had any experience using the EC-4 to biamp Klipschorns? I am about to change the crossover point by changing caps, should I crossover at 500Hz? Bryston 4B and Antique audio WAVE 8
  10. Thanks for everyone's input and advice! Yes 8watts is enough we have smiles all around, much more detail, not quite so harsh, opened it right up! The bass is also more solid as well.
  11. A bit rude, LM, you never asked. DJK has a good suggestion, you should follow up (politely). 16 ohm tap output. Do you have multiple outputs on your tube amp, say labelled 4 ohm, 8 ohm, and 16 ohm? I am very sorry I did not want to be rude whatsoever but I did ask DJK and DJK responded with some rudeness, but onward I never want to be rude my deepest apologies. Thank you for responding with the answer though, I have yet to purchase the amp and I believe they do not have various impedance taps.
  12. At the risk of repeating MYself what is a 16r tap?
  13. I knew we would run him out sooner or later! No not at all got busy on my end that's all. Now I am considering triamping considering 8 watts may not be enough for both mid and tweeter, sometimes we like to crank it, hence the Bryston which by the way doesn't even get warm with the Khorns. So lets reconsider my original question, will 8 watts be enough for the tweeter and may be 15 to25 for the mid? Thanks for thinking about me though LOL
  14. I would also imagine that in a properly bi- or tri-amped system, with amps connected directly to drivers w/o any passive crossover components would yield easily quantifiable results. A raw driver is a way friendlier, flatter load than said driver coupled with phase shifting, impedance-fluctuating passive crossover parts. Fully actice makes sense no matter how you look at it. To the OP's original question, I use 300w/chan paired w/ approx 6 watts for the top end, and it works great within it's limits. I just don't crank it like a teenager that much any more. It's still good to over 100db at my chair before running out of steam, which is still bowl-you-over loud, and more than I can tolerate for more than brief sessions. Thanks for your reply I am intrigued, which crossover are you using, I am have a difficult time; a) finding one finding any opinoins about them
  15. Can I ask you are you running an electronic or passive crossover and if electronic which one? Thanks for your input, I am excited about this project but apprehensive on how much is my sickness gonna cost me!
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