moray james
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Posts posted by moray james
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unless you can find an identical physical match for your existing piece (exact same ID) I suggest you purchase a matching pair. These adapters come in an assortment of size variations for exit ID..
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1 hour ago, Chief bonehead said:
Curious as to how you know this...
a buddy used to wind complex fine gage coils and also had some cap winding equipment, he spent a fair amount of time picking the brains of guys who designed and sold winding equipment to find out what he needed to know so he could build his own machine. he is a clever cookie with a sharp mind and has designed and built or modified much of his own equipment.
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1 hour ago, Thaddeus Smith said:
BUT IT'S NOT FACTORY APPROVED AS PAUL INTENDED.
(surely he never had to balance quality or design goals with parts cost for mass production)
please don't shout. a flat wind is not as good as a round wind and a round wound cap is not as good as a stacked construction. it is what it is. choose and use what ever you like.
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16 minutes ago, Jefe said:
Can you please explain the difference in these two types of caps?sure see the pictures. Flat wound are designed to minimize real estate on a board. When winding a flat wound cap it is virtually impossible to maintain constant film and or foil tension, with a round wound it is easy to maintain constant wind tension. Constant tension is much preferred. Want an even better cap? Stacked film or stacked foil and film are about as good as it can get see picture. Hope this helps you.
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2 hours ago, RandyH000 said:
the fact that both speakers are affected , would imho not be caused by the speakers , but rather by interference -static- or a ground issue which can be cabling or the connections ----or the amplifier -pre-amp --
-I doubt klipsch would not have the components tight on a crossover , since the speakers are tested at the Factory , so unless the speakers were dropped , this is far likely
I had two sets of H3 and both had horrible dry joints all over the cabinets. They were treated to a couple of thinned applications of white PVA wood glue to all the seams prior to being fitted with white oak on all the cabinet seams along with a full matrix they are rigid now and make no noise.
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1 hour ago, twistedcrankcammer said:
Thanks Moray..
Looking for all three but especially the one for the barrel tuner.
Rog
found some of the numbers (two out of three) thanks to Wiki sure you can find those copies now. check out the patent list.
Firearm vibration control. US patent 2302699. Klipsch, P.W., 11/14/1942.[14]
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5 hours ago, BigStewMan said:
completely agree. I joined in 1978 -- I was 17. totally different environment than when I left. the stuff they did and said to us in boot camp would never fly now with these delicate types.
yeah but today you can pretend to be a woman in Biden's army and they will supply you with falsies.
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4 hours ago, BanjoBill said:
I have these installed in my Cornwall II's. Wondering what others opinion of these are? There is a lot I really like about them, certainly much greater detail than the K-79 that were in there. There is still just something not right. I think they might be too hot and may need to be attenuated? They seem a bit to bright, to fatiguing maybe.. I thought about switching back to the K-79's but the improvement in detail is huge.. Anyone else have to make adjustments to these in a Cornwall?
did you ever try using the Titanium diaphragm in your K79? Another question is how many hours of play do the new tweeters have on them? They do take time to settle in and to smooth out.
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this was standard practice if a veneer was not up to the desired level they would be painted black many woods can be found under black paint. Here is a link to a forum thread regarding the K43 with input from a great forum member DJK (since passed away).
I hope this helps and is of interest.
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you might consider raising the CF4 up so that the centre of the horn is at your seated ear level. You can get a taste of this improvement by sitting on the floor taking your ears down closer to the tweeter horn. I prefer a WWT baffle layout over a WTW configuration. Hope this is of interest to you or to other thread readers.
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The only one I could find was this one. somebody else give this a try.
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25 minutes ago, bpplaysguitar said:
Indeed. Did you see those on Facebook too?! I don't think the seller is on here. I woke up, saw that I missed a set right near me overnight (sold in hours), checked marketplace since I was on there, was shocked to find those and was on a 12 hour round trip adventure within a couple hours.
do a search and request on HiFi Shark and get immediate notification of on line for sale posts, don't miss another opportunity.
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49 minutes ago, Seadog said:
I'm no expert on kitchen cutlery, but my favorite knife is a Benchmade hunting knife made from CPM-S30V steel. It can be sharpened wicked sharp and it holds an edge.
I have a 9" Cutco carving knife in 440A steel that I have had good luck with. I use it for slicing brisket.
if you get the chance and the price is right try a Buck blade made from CPM S30V. All American Bucks have Boss Heat Treatment the best heat treat man in the industry knows S30V inside and out and finishes with a cryo dip. Very nice S30V. I like the Buck/Boss treated S30V better than Spydercos S30V. While we are on Spyderco if you can find any of their knives in Maxamet try one, you will need diamond stones (DMT diamond stones are very good value). Maxamet is almost as hard as Tungsten but sharpens much easier and is much tougher it is my favorite steel my next fav is the Japanese ZDP189 harder than a file about the same level of sharpening difficulty as S30V not as tough as S30V but much harder with longer edge retention and virtually impossible to stain a really fine knife. I use an Endura in ZDP189 for most all of my kitchen prep every day, love the steel.
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3 minutes ago, dtel said:
Plus you are your own boss, so do it just like you want.
Like the Joe Walsh song.
They say I'm lazy but it takes all my time
(Everybody say oh, yeah) (Oh, yeah)
I keep on going, guess I'll never know why
Life's been good to me so far
Yeah, yeah, yeah-
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2 hours ago, Shiva said:
Now that this thread is getting more attention and deservedly so, a few questions come to mind and might be of interest, as they are to me.
For those who have or have had the CF3's & CF4's.
What differences have you noticed between the two models, sound wise?
Do the 4's have a more noticeable bass punch with its 12" drivers?
I have read of the 4's being a bit more chesty, as far as vocals are concerned. True or false?
The 4's are supposed to have a higher sensitivity, by 2 points. noticed or not?
Observations welcomed.
I can tell you that two twelve inch woofers will push approximately the same amount of air as 1 1/2 fifteen inch woofers. Dual 12" will usually cross a little lower than dual 10's do so they should sound close but I would expect a bit more body to the sound.Another good reason for selecting the smallest speaker which will provide you with your desired output levels and then leave the bottom end to multiple subs. My main speakers have a 3.25" woofer cone with a 1.5" tweeter in the middle. You would be shocked by how low and how loud they can play. Stage and image is excellent. It takes a fair amount of work to make a speaker this small be able to do what it does but it can be achieved (I am in a 14x30 ft. room with a kitchen and a hall off the main room volume).
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if you are going to do something take your time give it your all and do your best!
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I wonder when the air in those Chorus vents was last changed (if ever)? It looks to be original and has to be stale and definitely flat by now.
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1 hour ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
sorry, i wasnt giving excuses not to use what you posted. i was saying that in order to use those feet in these KG5.5 speakers the factory drilled holes probably wont work for the insert & you'd have to drill new holes for them which many people wont want to do to their speakers.
no worries I understand I just wanted readers to understand the ease and value of doing this to their speakers but yes I understand also lots of owners either don't want to drill holes or do anything to their speakers. That's just the way it is.
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11 hours ago, xo705cf said:
Where do I go to find these on the website?
thanks
Simply Speakers are authorized to sell Klipsch Factory Parts
https://www.simplyspeakers.com/
Michael Crites sells custom made replacement parts (Michael's dad Bob just passed away)
https://critesspeakers.com/klipsch_tweeters.html
I have replaced about nine sets of ti tweeter diaphragms and about 5 sets of ti mid diaphragms (the ti mid is only available from Klipsch via Simply Speakers). In all the tweeter ti sets I had two Klipsch ti tweeter diaphragms go bad but I have had no Crites parts go bad. I prefer the build of the Crites part Bob was a real stickler for quality. Just so you know. Bob was working on finding a supplier for the Klipsch ti mid diaphragm but could not find one that was good enough. He could have sold what ever was available but he would not. So don't let anyone suggest to you that the Crites ti tweeter is a cheap clone or copy it is (to me) the best option available.
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14 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
yes good points on how to install inserts... but with the pre drilled holes for these push in KG feet i doubt most inserts are the exact same size, they usually require a specific size hole to be drilled to install the threaded insert. if by chance thats the same size as the pre drilled KG holes then these are an option, if not the factory spike/feet are best & look correct.
I see very few excuses for not installing a standard female 1/4-20 threaded insert. Even if you don't have a hand drill and set of drills most people will know someone who does and those would even be happy to visit and drill the holes for them. This is just drilling eight holes and installing the self tapping inserts. One of the few modifications which will increase the re sale value of the loudspeakers.
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Tarheel TJ would you comment on your impressions when you got your four large diffusors installed? They were obviously a lot of work. They do look very nice and make a very nice visual statement, that said sonically were they worth the effort in your opinion?
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38 minutes ago, EpicKlipschFan said:
KG series speakers & many others of this era dont have threaded inserts to allow use of those types of feet. they are just a push in spike with plastic covers. im sure you know that but locating the correct stock spikes/covers is the best option, although not adjustable.
Thanks for the reminder. Threaded inserts can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, Home Hardware etc. all over they are cheap and simple to install. When you install them put a thin layer of white wood glue on the insert and on the side wall of the hole with a toothpick as this greatly increases the strength of the insert in the hole, the glue wicks into the wood and strengthens it and it also sticks to the metal insert (not as well as say an epoxy but epoxy does not wick into the wood as well as white glue does). Get some inserts and do it right because inserts offer a substantial increase in energy transfer compared to a spike which is simply screwed into the base of the cabinet, you won't regret installing them.
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are you bridging the two stereo amps or are you vertically biamping? (biamping is the way to go with a pair of stereo block amplifiers especially when they are matched twins).
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48 minutes ago, Chief bonehead said:
Or or or....you could get original Klipsch TI diaps from Klipsch.....
I could but I have had failure problems with two klipsch ti tweeter diaphragms and I never have had one problem with Bob's (rest his soul), so I am sticking to what worked best. That said all the Klipsch ti mid diaphragms I have used have worked perfectly and still work perfectly.
Need help selecting drivers KLF30
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
I would suggest you purchase a matching set of four new woofers from Klipsch when available and sell off your existing woofers then. This is the only way you can insure matching drivers all around.Your old woofers will sell fast and match with those out in the market place which need replacements.