JewishAMerPrince

You will just have to upgrade to RF7's and a 65" TV. Sitting next to the 7's the 20-39 PCi looks proportionate. Jerry Rappaport

I own the Bravo D-1, so let me make comments on all the previous responses. The Units are both clearly superior to anything else picture wise, they are not marketing hype. The strength of both the bravo and Samsung players lies in the DVI interface. The have the video equivalent of the digital (optical or coax) audio connection that we all know and love. For those of you who don't get the comparison, let me explain. Conventional DVD players must convert the digital signal to analog in order to conect to a TV monitor regardless of whether that connection be though component, S Video or composite video connection. This conversion introduces opportunities for picture softening and graininess and the possibility of color frequency response shift, and the introduction of video noise (sparkles). Then, in an HDTV monitor without DVI capability that input must undergo reconversion to digital from analog, introducing more of the previously mentioned anomalies. A DVI connection simply eliminates the D/A-A/D conversion process by connecting DVD digital circuits to HDTV digital circuits directly. Pure and simply, less transistors in the way means better quality. However, one must have a monitor with DVI-D inputs to take advantage of that connection. The results, video wise, are absolutely astounding. The image is sharp, clear and with absolutely no graininess. My previous player was a Panasonic RP82 (with Faroujda deinterlacer) which is acknoledged by most reviewers as the best DVD player, picture wise, ever produced prior to the arrival of the Samsung and Bravo. I chose the Bravo because of several reviews rating the picture quality over the Samsung, in spite of the fact that the Bravo does not use the Faroujda deinterlacer. The Bravo will play "superbit" DVDs as well as MP4 discs, which the Samsung will not. Also, the build quality of the Bravo appears to be a tad better. The unit weighs in at about a pound and a half heavier than the Samsung which means less video "jitter". The company, Vinc is a relatively new offshoot of well known Princeton Graphics, and was created to sell high quality video products online direct-only as does SVS and Outlaw. The Bravo is not without it's quirks. My first unit froze on layer changes on several of the DVDs in my collection. Bravo promptly replaced it at no cost to me. Secondly, all the units have a slight popping when engaging fast forward or fast reverse and when selecting languages from a DVD menu. This is a known issue that they are working on but have yet to solve. Vinc promises a firmware update when they solve it. This quirk is annoying but not a show stopper as far as I am concerned. As far as the resolution upconversion argument goes, neither the Bravo nor the Samsung do anything that a most good HDTV monitors aren't already capable of, and as someone already mentioned the 720p or 1080i upconversion is NOT TRUE HD as the data on a coventional DVD disc is not HD but only SD. HD DVDs don't exist yet, that is coming withing five years with a system called "blue light" (if the Motion Picture association will ever get off the electronics industries back about copy protection algorythms). The upconverted "Virtual" HD at 720p or 1080i is quite a bit better looking on a big screen than the raw 480i or 480p format. One thing that anyone contemplating purchase of either of these units should be aware of is that they both require a special (and very EXPENSIVE) DVI-D (dual) cable to connect to a DVI-D equipped HDTV. The DVI-D connectors sold in computer stores usually don't work as they are DVI-D single. Bravo sells a cable at their website but I got mine at pacificcables.com at considerably lower (but still steep) cost. I personally think that having a DVD player that cost $200 that outperforms anything on the market, even those esoteric brands which can run upwards of 4 grand is a real hoot! Jerry Rappaport P.S. Unlike the Samsung, the Bravo does not require your HDTV to be DHCP compliant which makes it more suitable in most case for people with HDTVs or projectors that are over a year old design.

Do it! If you don't you'll be playing the shoulda, coulda woulda game. Good luck! Jerry Rappaport

That seems like a good deal. You may want to look into something a bit bigger in a subwoofer if they allow you to upgrade the package at all. This of course depends on the size of the room you will operate in the type of listening you do, and other factors like how much bass you like, LFE content of your favorite media, etc. etc. Your receiver should do the trick, Klipsch speakers are VERY efficient. However, after awhile you may want to upgrade it for newer features. There is a pattern...once you start hearing what you have been missing with the Bose, it seems that most people get bit by the upgrade "bug". Good Luck! Jerry Rappaport

I have read most of the posts here and I find a lot of the politics in the comments very amusing. Much has been said about the difference in sound between the Rockets and Klipsch speakers. I think that there has been one very big point that almost everyone has missed. If we were to compare their current best, an RS750, with our current best, an RF7 it would take 10 times the power to get the same dynamics out of the Rockets as we can out of the RFs. Since to me, dynamics are a large part of what makes home theater realistic and exciting this makes Klipsch the winner hands down. I currently run with 120wpc, I cannot see myself with 1200 wpc channel amps to achieve the same SPLs I enjoy. If we could ignore the cost of the bigger amps (who can?) then heat generated in the room would be intolerable! Although the rockets in and amongst themselves are great value by comparison to others, by comparison to Klipsch they are not "cost effective" because of their greater power demands. Of course one could always use the Rockets with smaller amps and just live with the resulting flat and lifeless soundstage that others rationalize as "laid back". Jerry Rappaport

I find the same thing happens with HD satelite (DISH) sometimes, especially when watching HBO or showtime in HD. It seems they don't ALWAYS use HD source material and frequently don't upconvert to 720p or 1080i. What I then do is use the zoom feature on my Hitachi Ultravision (similar to your unit) to scale it up and fill the screen. Hope this helps. Jerry Rappaport

It will be here before you know it. I ordered my online on a Sunday and it arrived Thursday. JR

I went from the CT-12 (now the CHT-120) to an SVS 20-39 PCi. The difference was phenominal...like comparing a home theater in a box system to a well planned and executed high end home theater system. Not only was the low bass presence and extension significantly improved, as one would expect, but the sound is so, so clean by comparison to the Velo. Even my wife seems to like the tall cylinder look better than the big box. Jerry Rappaport

What is your video monitor? This could have a large impact on your selection. Some DVD players have great audio and great features such as SACD and DVDA playback capabilities but their picture quality lacks on a high quality large screen monitor or projector. JR

What is your video monitor? This could have a large impact on your selection. Some DVD players have great audio and great features such as SACD and DVDA playback capabilities but their picture quality lacks on a high quality large screen monitor or projector. JR

Go without lunch, beg borrow or steal (just kidding) but do not pass go...buy the 7's...you'll never, ever regret it. JR

As a Engineer I originally saw no technical merit to the concept of bi-wiring....untill I tried it and my ears told my engineering brain to shut up! Jerry Rappaport

Glad to see you are happy with your acquisition of the 507. Enjoy!!!! JR

If all you are trying to accomplish now is crossover bass adjustment for all channels why don't you just add an Outlaw ICBM for $249 and call it a day till you are ready for total separates? JR

Yesterday I put my architect to work designing an addition to this house that will contain, amongst other less important things, my dedicated theater room and a separate sewing room for my wife (she needs something to do while I play with my toys after all). I've read a lot here from people building theater rooms inside their existing homes, but never much about building a room from scratch with no constraints (other than expense). I'm trying to create a room for 6 to 8 people and want the acoustics to be as perfect as possible. I have seen somewhere in the past on one forum or another recomendations and formulas on height, width, lenght ratios, but can't seem to relocate them now. Would anyone have a clue where I could find them? Any other recommendations would also be really apprecited! This is a large and very expensive venture (adventure?..misadventure???) and I would like to make as few errors as possible! Thanks in Advance Jerry Rappaport

I have a RC 3 that I would be willing to swap for your KV2 and some cash. Please check your private messages. Jerry Rappaport

I had an HGS 12 originally with my RF3 setup, at least till something went arwy internally and the damn thing started to buzz! Not being very flush at that time I purchased an SVS PCi 20-39 which was a very good match with the RF3s. Understand that this is SVS's least expensive powered sub. I too listen at moderate levels so I didn't need the power of the bigger amp in the PC+ or have the $ for an Ultra and separate amp. The 20-39 goes very low and is very clean. Well financial times have changed and I recently upgraded to RF7's and found to my pleasant suprise that my $600 SVS blends PERFECTLY with the RF7's.... a perfect match timbre wise! Jerry R

There is one issue that hasn't been discussed. What is the size of your room? This can make a large differnce in power requirements. The HK may be adequate in a 12x10 room with an 8' ceiling, but very inadequate in a 20x30 room with a high ceiling. JR

If you'd like a DVD player that will knock your socks off get a Panasonic RP82 or CP72 (Changer version of the same player). Granted, it does not have the "elan" of a Rotel or even a Denon,.....however it is the highest rated DVD Player out there, and it will play DVDA's to boot. If you really need SACD capability get a decent CD player with that capability...and you will still have a lot of cash left in your pocket. When I brought home my Rotel gear I also brought home a RDV1080 on approval from the dealer. The snob in me wanted all my equipment to match! Well, I took it back the next day because I couldn't descern a difference from my CP72 (which cost me $220)......I may be a snob, but I'm not a fool and am not willing to part with my hard earned $$ just over looks, there has to be some performance difference too! Happy Hunting! JR

According to Avia setup disk the best way to position the RS meter is to aim it at the ceiling in the listening position you will most frequently occupy. This made absolutely no sense to me, but I found that it worked! JR

What impedence and efficiency were the speakers you listened to verses the ones you own? I find that the RF7s will reach concert volume levels with about 5 watts input each in my listening room, and the RMB1075 never even has to breath hard. It is interesting that you said everything seemed louder, even though you just hit the a/b switch. Are you sure that the two setups were adjusted to the same reference level? Perhaps not, perhaps the B&K seemed louder because it was set at a higher gain level. I have done a similar comparison but with RF7s and must say that properly set up the Rotel and the B&K sounded very similar with the slight edge in brightness and warmth going to the Rotel. I also did the same comparison with RF3s and the Rotel seemed overly bright by comparison to the B&K. I have also been told by a reliable source that the B&K amps have very sensitive protection circuits and will oftimes trigger (shut off momentarily) with low impedence loads at high volume levels. To some this may be problematical, hoever it is not something you are likely to experience with Klipsch speakers. JR

---------------- On 5/1/2003 1:54:16 PM TauRus wrote: No, no, no, .. enough of wars ... Let's solve this diplomatically. OK, if we forget about brands, can you guys at least suggest between these choices: - stranded vs. solid core - zip vs twisted pair vs whateverelse Also, if you know of any decent place to purchase these cables onine or retail, I would appreciate this as well. ---------------- Try www.KnuKnonceptz.com...click on home theater. They have great wire at reasonable prices. JR

Hey Guy! Sorry to hear about all your Rotel woes. I know we had some positive communications about the gear before I purchased mine. Fortunatly, my experience has been a good one so far, only one minor glitch that turned out to be a programming error in my Panasonic DVD player. Tim Wyatt of Rotel lead me right to it during our first phone call. Rotel support has been supurb so far. I called and complained that I had gotten the "old" RR 969 remote and they immediatly sent me out the new RR 1050 (vastly superior). I really love the sound of the Rotel with my 7's. I am curious about the hissing you are experiencing. I noticed that initially using some Monster interconnects between the 1066 and the 1075. I then purchased some relatively inexpensive balanced and double shielded interconnects from KnuKoncepts and the hiss went away. The balanced part is important since if the processor is off before the amp, then the interconnect impedence changes and the interconnect will act as an antenna for RFI till the caps in the amp bleed down. At least onething is good...the Rotel gear seems to hold it's value real well. I see used gear selling on Audiogon for nearly what I paid for mine. Answering your question. I know for a fact that B&K has a rep for being problimatical ( I have a relative who manages a Sound Advice store who recommended I buy the Rotel gear over the B&K. Good luck with whatever you purchase! Jerry R

I think with that much mismatch in speakers the sound may seem to dance all over the place. Not an uninteresting effect in itself if you are into sound effects rather than music...lol. "Doctor" JR Jerry Rappaport

Here is a suggestion for making music sound much smoother (less bright) when using your DVD player for playing a CD. I ran an additional set of analog stereo cables from the anolog output of my DVD player to the analog CD inputs of my receiver (now pre/pro). This seemed to tame the overly bright and strident highs quite a bit, at least while listening to music. I've read everyone else's comments on changing the room for acoustic refinement and I agree that something needs to be done there. Jerry Rappaport