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Posts posted by OO1
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19 hours ago, Stacey Wilsman said:
Can anyone give me an idea for a muffled volume in one speaker. It fixes itself we I turn the volume up.
are your Cornwall crossovers all original from 1975 ?
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the P audio driver is a 20$ driver wholesale , I doubt anyone would even care to discuss such a cheap quality driver
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1993 KG 2.2 keep the speakers in a vented place
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22 hours ago, Invidiosulus said:
as you can see, both drivers show a peak in the 150Hz region with the 15C showing less of a drop in output.
1 simulation cannot reflect all the Lascalas since 1963 , it's a bit more complicated than that
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2 hours ago, gspetrou said:
Hey everyone, thanks in advance and apologies for any ambiguity as I'm trying to learn/troubleshoot.
I am having an issue with my R-51PM speakers where the powered speaker's LED is stuck displaying either white (with a blue-ish tint?) or a yellow-ish color. I've seen both in my testing. The speaker is completely unresponsive to any knob or remote input. The speakers have not been used, and were not plugged in, for a few months. I discovered this issue yesterday. Where the speakers were stored at one point had ~1-inch of flood water. Looking at the speakers I see no indication of corrosion or water damage (on both electronics and the wood). I took out the amplifier to inspect it and also didn't see any indication of damage. The speaker being fairly dusty indicated to me it probably wasn't even involved in the flood, but it may have been. With the LED primarily being white I assumed it may have been stuck on USB mode, but the speakers were not appearing when plugged in to my Windows machine.
Any suggestions on what these LED indicators could mean or steps to troubleshoot? I'm thinking of finding a friend with an amp and testing the speakers in 'phono' mode to see if they work when bypassing the amp. I am however unable to change the input to try that.
water flooding is never a good thing , try to do a factory reset of the speakers . if the reset works , great , if it does not , the amp may have sustained damage
https://support.klipsch.com/hc/en-us/articles/13916396466324
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On 12/25/2023 at 2:44 PM, Angel Baez said:
I have a set of cabinets with serial numbers 122W952 and 123W078 can someone please tell me what these numbers and letters mean. Thanks in advance.
Angel Baez
based on the serial # , you have 2 non-consecutive serial numbers for klipsch speakers Made in 1981 at the klipsch Hope Arkansas plant , as for the model of the speakers , please post a picture of the tags at the rear of the speakers , or write the information that you see .
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I stand corrected
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On 12/29/2023 at 4:36 AM, bobofgold said:
The seller is very open to negotiation and is keen to be rid of them. Again, I know the UK is a different market, but I would be interested in hearing thoughts on an opening bid either assuming everything is good, or assuming the worst.
these are 1979 Lascala , the items that will require a refresh are the capacitors of the crossovers .
-take some time to test the drivers , tweeters are 8 Ohms , the mids K-55V are 16 Ohms , the woofers are 4 Ohms
-assuming the drivers are in good working order , you should clean the voice coil gap of the HF drivers as a minimum
-the value of the speakers is about 1500$ if all drivers are operational , the rarer parts are the klipsch copper badges , so make sure not to lose them or damage them during transit .
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16 hours ago, babadono said:
Correct. But things are changing...many IsoMax models are unobtanium.
supply issues affect all brands these days , nothing anyone can do about it
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I doubt it
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1 inch MDF panels all around is more than enough to eliminate any remote possibility of resonance from an AL-5 wood cabinet , this thread is about a bad recording with noise the OP 's issue has nothing to do with the cabinet of the AL-5 ......0
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1 inch MDF with the AL-5 = 0 resonance , klipsch can back it up 100% , no BS
- if you have a lousy room or a lousy recording , dont blame the LS-AL-5 -LSI , blame yourself for using a crappy sound track in a lousy room using top of the line klipsch speakers
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you're right , I checked online , the K-401 horns are showing :
Qty In Stock:Out of stock
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surprise for you , the old parts were better quality than the aftermarkets you purchased , oooops
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unscrew the bolts from the horn assembly , remove the horn , gently separate the magnet from the diaphragm . clean the VC gap , retest .
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hit the ignore button
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klipsch parts sell the K-401
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3 hours ago, Xtomasx said:
Check the other good speaker and there was no value on it.
good to know , replace with a 0.50A Polyswitch
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On 1/1/2024 at 4:47 AM, Adamttt said:
Thanks for the answer. 'FINE' is a good start. Is there an easily understandable resource that explains why some power amp classes are a better fit than others for the Klipschorn?
klipsch speakers can use any Amplifier Class ,whether Class A , A/B , D , Digital amps , and even Crown's I Class amplifiers , higher damping factor and low distortion are always preferable
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Jensen is owned by Radial since 2014 , just sayin
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WTB K-762-KP Tweeter for KP-102
in Garage Sale
Posted
the mylar dome diaphragm in the above picture has 3 terminals instead of 2 , klipsch did manufacture a mylar diaphragm for a short period of time , it was an advanced design with Ferro-fluid in the magnet gap to cool the diaphragm 's VC , without FF , the diaphragms did not sound as good + durability was lowered .
- if all your KP-102 speakers have the same mylar diaphragm, it is crucial to clean the VC gap to remove any residues and to top up with FF for optimal sound quality .