derrickdj1
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Posts posted by derrickdj1
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Come on gent's. There are many amps that will sound just as good as these amps and save a few coins. The real question is how much should we pay for an amp paire to our horn speakers. It will vary by person but, the SQ will be fairly close to something 1/2 the price.
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Don't fix it: there are to may newer tube amps on the market.
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On 10/3/2018 at 11:43 AM, Nismo said:
Probably not a lot of grey area with Guy Richie's take on this one. It actually bombed at the box office & most are either gonna love it or hate it. Fortunately I enjoy Guy Richie's distinct point of view.
No opinion on this one, everyone fell asleep 30 min. into the movie.
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On 10/10/2018 at 9:27 PM, MetropolisLakeOutfitters said:
two R-115SW's will run all over a single SB-16 at 20 hz. SVS is usually more reliable and for music it will be tighter and more accurate though. Pros and cons of each.
I want to say what Metro said!!!
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I should of define what a MBM (Mid Bass Module) is and who needs them. A mid bass module will cover the frequency range of 50-250 Hz. Why add a MBM? For some small rooms, there will be a null in the frequency range of the MBM. This is not correctable by EQ which is mainly used to bring down peaks and raise small dips. MBM will provide more chest thump and club like music tactile response. YYMV with employing a MBM so, they are not meant for everyone and may or may not be a good addition to a HT or music system.
MBM are usually made with a 12 woofer. A subwoofer can be used but, cutting it off at 50 Hz is giving up a lot of what it was made to handle in HT. A MBM is placed different than most subs. These modules are commonly used nearfield with a delay to be in synch with the subwoofers. This is not a process done by ear and REW or Omni mic should be used or some other measuring system.
It should be noted that many systems with adequate subwooferage may lack the chest thump due to a lack of mid bass caused by SBIR(speaker boundary interference). This SBIR can cause large dips or suckouts in some rooms. This can cause destructive interference between direct and indirect sound waves in the room. So, it is possible to have high spl at the MLP and miss the chest thump. In an ideal world, one would place 4 subwoofers at the mid point on the 4 walls, followed by on sub in each of the 4 corners as a second choice. I can't overemphasize that a truly optimal HT will have subwoofer in the front and back of the room if the wall mid points are not available.
As a closing statement, we don't see many people on the forum complaining about the 8000 to 25 kHz range where there are few audible modal problems. I don't get caught up on which speaker is better or what avr I should buy because Klipsch has many offerings and there are an abundance of quality avrs. Proper setup is the key to making or breaking a system no matter what dollar amount has been spent. You can't buy quality sound without understanding what is going on in the room!!!
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Those are some nice speakers, congrats on the purchase.
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get a sub and not worry.
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7 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
If you want some mid bass slam, swap your 18's for a pair of these.
https://www.zzounds.com/item--PEVBW1801LT?siid=22096&-yEAQYASABEgIZIPD_BwE
I am not looking to adding more speaker but, I have a couple of free channels open on the I Nuke amps. I may consider adding a couple of MBM's since they can be run off one channel of the amp. Replacing the one UM 18 as become quite expensive compared to when I first purchase them for $ 278.00.
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5 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
So to convert from subs to MBM's you merely changed the cut off frequencies? No driver changes? Normally MBM's employ woofers as opposed to subwoofer drivers.
MBM are normally constructed with a woofer and not a subwoofer. The main difference between a woofer and subwoofer is their frequency range. This was just a quick experiment that used my two closes subs. I just moved the hpf up to 50 Hz and the XO on the HT to 100 Hz. The goal of the experiment was to see if I would loose the tactile impact by setting the hpf to 50 Hz.
One of the things I noticed from testing on the ULF thread on the AVS forum, is that the UM 18's drop a bit in the 50-80 Hz range when running them for ULF. By changing the hpf to 50 Hz takes a tremendous load off the driver. There was no loss of tactile response and things felt pretty good.
Further experimentation will be needed before more than a subjective impression. This can be done with a smart phone.
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I am in the Great Lake region where 1/5 of the worlds fresh water supply is. This is an are of water supply that has an international market. The rest of the world needs to emulate.
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Long ago, there was no price, modern times as been misguided before and will repeat it's mistakes. When you deny people a chance to live free, war is the end result. war only determines a winner, not what is ultimately right!
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To draw water off at certain points or put dams up is not right to deny the down stream folks water. This is an no brainer and if someone is thinking of a rational point, I bet they will have water. This country is going to hell with centered individuals.May Hades's come and bail us already out of the apparent hell that this nations seems to embrace.
Politic's aside, this country is not united and ready to be divided by another nation! Now ain't that a .........paradox?
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I'm on my second move, Pacific Rim #2. With enough wooferage, I can't imagine anyone putting up a speaker vs a sub and claiming better sound! The second most important speaker in the HT setup is the subs, forget center channel and surround. This is where the impact comes form, not the mains. If you want good mains, switch to 2 ch. I'm running 5.5 rear surround and 6.5 SS and 8 in Atmos and hitting spl of 127 db. at 0 db on the avr sitting 18 ft. from the mains and the reference sub is 28 ft. from the main listening position. I wish I had a smaller upstairs room and not the basement.
I've now switch to some jazz. Iam running 2 watts for 97 db average running the Mains full without subs at 18 ft away. Wow, what is to be said about speaker efficiency. I am only doing these post because some forum members believe that an avr can't deliver in recent post. For those that want to refute the data, get another system that is not Klipsch!
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These speakers work well as MBM. This is not even a big bass movie and it ' has great sound effects. In my 4600 cu ft. room, I only really need four power subs. I am going to play with adding MBM. I could have 4 MBM and 4 subs going to 14 Hz.. I have many possibilities because of the sub. If you are serious about HT, more subs mean much more than amps for the front 3 speakers!
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I would not even take a pic with those speakers. solidifying; a fool. I will better spent my time running for. US senate.
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Another forum member ask about mid bass that was lacking in what should be a stellar system. I converted two of my 18 in. monster into MBM for an experiment. The answer is still pending since the initial impression are bases of the film 12 Strong. All I can say is Oh! I took the two sub from 15 Hz cut off to 50 Hz. WOW, that is a lot. The nearfield subs (2) are punching like gutter trash trying to make their presents known.
I need further experimentation with some heavy hitter but, for right now the current configuration stan. The movie is being watch a Reference level. This also address another post active o n the forum on the need of an amp. I am running the side and rear sound off my power amp. The main are on the avr with the other speakers. Power requirement are dictated by the weakest speakers or surround in most cases.
I'm the only guy on the forum that does not recommend a power amp for the front 3 speakers. Why waste the amp on the front 3, when the surround require more true and stable power? All I can say is this is great. Don't take this as gospel but, many on the forum know, I don't spouts off without some testing and research. I truly only need 4 subs to control this size room. Even though you could store a body in the larger subs.
Right now the police are investigating a case and I need to go to the door. I may be back tomorrow.
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I can't with woofer replacement but, considering adding a subwoofer for the low end since La Scala's don't go to low.
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20 minutes ago, windashine said:
from the RIHPA18 winner list - #21) Loudspeakers over 100,000 - Wilson Audio WAMM Master Chronosonic
Don't nick the crown molding! I wonder what is in the little drawer at the bottom of the speaker.
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Many of these type post have a lot of generalizations. There are no articles that I have read with science behind them stating that a speaker adequately power by and avr will be lifted to new heights by hooking it up to a power amp. In General, more watts are better to have than less watts. It is generally recommended to have twice the speaker RMS power. Most of us with 200 or 250 watts speakers don't use amps that strong. Why, speaker efficiency is a key part in the power needs of the system. Subwoofers are use for the heavy lifting of the LF's in an HT using a XO at 80 Hz. This will dramatically cut the other speakers power requirements.
The final decision will be for the OP. He needs to know how loud he listens.
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My condolences Schu. It is hard to loose a pet/family member. My wife couldn't even go with me to the vet when we went thru this.
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There is a post in the tube amp section on how to see how much power you really need.. I commonly run the system all out and have never blew speaker. I can't say the same for subs, lol. I don't have a problem with outboard amps, I have one. I just don't recommend everyone needs them. The question which systems benefit from them!
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Just take the case of an RF 7 with a sensitivity of 101. One watt is 101 db, 10 watt is about 110 db. Having 300 -400 watts is meaningless. With some low sensitivity speakers, the story changes a bit as Zen Traveler said, woofer control should not be a problem if enough power is provided by an amp or avr.
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5 hours ago, RAzZin said:
It's not only about the power AVR \ amplifier provides but the quality of sound, ability to control the speakers to get the best out of it is also very important. Yes, you can usually sacrifice more when you watch movies compared to listening to stereo music, but still... the better amps are the better movies will sound, and all AVRs have entry level amplifiers only. Separate video processor with all external amps is the way to get the best sound, so the closer to this setup you are the better wound will be.
You must not have experience with many top tier avr's. The top Pioneer lines don't give up much to a power amp. Pioneer will give you all channels driven. I have used these avr's with 4 or 5 two hundred watt power amps, the only reason I need the power amp is for accessory speakers. The Class D3 amps are as clean as any power amp under $6000. The connectivity is very nice which an amp does not have. The power supply and preamp are in separate compartments. Avr's are not necessarily inferior to amp/preamp combo. They are made by larger companies that have the power of comparative advantage. This can allow them to deliver a comparable unit at way less than an amp/preamp combo with more options. Never say always in audio.
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First, let's consider the speakers you mentioned. The 620 would be my choice over the 610. I don't know your budget but, jumping up to the RP line would be nice. I know it is more money but, if you can save the extra money over the next couple of months, it can be a nice X-mas present.
College football 2018
in Lounge
Posted
Looks like the last game in the Big Ten will determine who will be in the final 4 for the National Championship. The Big Ten Champ at the end of the season will stand on it's own merit with little questionable controversy.