bribassguy

Looking at the spec sheets has me lost: What's this? The Cornwall iv sticker says K-702 but in this case is it the horn or the driver? The sticker is on the driver... the spec sheet says K-702 1.75” (4.45cm) Polyimide diaphragm compression driver. but doesn't list the horn. Klipsch Cornwall IV Floorstanding Speaker Spec Sheet The only other reference i found for K-702 appears on a KPT-8060H, it says it uses One K-103-TI diaphragm compression driver on a K-702-M horn. KPT-8060H Spec Sheet The Forte III specs say a K-70 1.75" titanium-diaphragm midrange compression driver on a new Tractrix K-703-M horn. http://assets.klipsch.com/product-specsheets/Forte-III-Spec-Sheet-v061.pdf The KPT-1260H spec is a one K-703-G 1.75” titanium compression driver on a K-703-M horn. KPT-1260H Spec Sheet Most other larger KPT use a K-691 3" diaphragm compression driver. The large-format compression driver is mated to a 90° x 60° K-510 horn

The nomenclature is confusion to me... I seems like people are using the same "name" to refer to different parts interchangeably: Example: K604 (aka K602) Horn and K52 Driver I've see referenced as a K61 assembly a K52 assembly (horn +Driver) I guess people are reading the driver number? a K52 horn (I guess people are reading driver number) a K604 Horn a K602 Horn To futher confuse the matter some times it's just what it came out of aka KPTxxx Horn? Can someone help clarify this? Is there a nomenclature decoder ????

Can anyone tell me the difference in the K-702 vs K-703 horns? The KP / KPT seem to reference the K703 & K703-M, K-702-M The horn out of a CW4 has a sticker that says K-702 on the driver. Is that the assembly or horn or driver? Has anyone seen them side by side?

Hey, That's my horn... or was my horn. It's modified from the original design to use a 12" version of the Dayton Reference driver, the RSS315HF driver. The cabinet is plenty stiff and was built using the 12"-loaded slim design which is why there is only 2 brace and another further in that you can't see. In room response will be better with it point into a wall / corner with mouth about 18" way from wall. Here's my in room response pre / post PEQ. It gets a lot louder but my noise floor is pretty low so I sweep a reasonable level.

Warning this is some what long and rambling. I inherited a pair of old Klipsch Cornwalls that I wanted to restore during lock down budget would be $750 or so. These would have to pull double duty 2 channel audio and Left / Right in a home theater (handing off ultra low frequency duties to a pair of 18" subs). I was originally planning on build a set of DIYSG Titan 615 LX but jumped at these when the opportunity came up. I really like the idea of a RestoMod where the outside is original looking but all new guts... essentially, a heritage by reusing the boxes and "good" components and making something like the Super Cornwall or CornScala or maybe even a big 2 way. I am not too hung up on the "originality" of the speakers I just want to keep a part of my grandfather alive. If I had to cut the motor board to get a much better speaker I would. I prefer the look of the lens / woofers mounted and recessed to the front of the board but given I've got 2 toddlers the grill will be on most of the time. The story goes that his son took the drivers back from when he was a tanker stationed in Germany. When he got state side he and my grandfather rebuild the boxes... I am not to sure about this b/c they look pretty factory. He was an amazing carpenter and woodworker so I am sure he could have built them same as factory and his son was an engineer so I he could have made a drawing to replicate... there's not sticker on box so who knows? To me the story doesn't really make any sense but I like the story, so I am choosing to believe it, where it's true or not. I can remember these from when I was little playing from an old Wurlitzer Juke box... mostly honky tonk and country and few old french songs from his youth. My goal would be to get these done by say 4th of July when hopefully lock down is over and we celebrate our freedom music music loud enough to rival the fireworks. Major objects would be to have a high sensitivity speaker that can be run form a solid state amp splitting duties between music and theater. I listen to a pretty good mix f music bluegrass, jam bands, female vocals paino, all over the place... For home theater I have an full 5.4.2 Atmos. Again budget would be so funded by selling existing front sound stage (Klipsch Reference). I would like to a matching front sound stage or as close to matching as possible. Option 1: Super Cornwalls + Super Hersey? What's the current recipe for a Super CornWall + Super Hersey? I came across ClaudeJ1 thread but could not follow the recipe and hop you guys can help fill in the blanks. This would Woofer: Kappalite 3015 LF-4 here for $300 https://avatarspeakers.com/shop/speakers/eminence/kappalite3015lf/ Mid Horn: I think SC 1.0 used stock K55/K600 but it sounded like 2.0 would use a new lens? I can't find the 2.0 thread. Tweeter: MAHL V2+ B&C DE10 $288 via ebay XO: Budget of $150 to get a recapped / rebuilt XO. Sounded like a change to XO points but was not sure how to accomplish this w/o a schematic. This woudl allow me to build s Super Hersey aka baby Cornwall to have a matching center. as described here: Option 2: Get weird SEOS 15 Wave guide 2 way Cornwall and matching center. This second one is a little out there. I have been thinking about a 2 way like a Fusion-15 Sentinel, CornScala D or the Cheap Thrills by Bill Walso. Klipsch purists might not agree with this approach but that would mean I could make something like a DIYSG 88 Special and have 3 matching SEOS 15 horns upfront. The Fusion 15 uses a Deltalite II woofer XOed at 1000 HZ to a SEOS 15 horn and their DNA360 compression driver but in smaller box. Kit can be seen here: https://www.diysoundgroup.com/sentinel-15.html I think it would be happy in a bit bigger box if it wasn't pushed to hard. Claude touched on it in one of the thread but I think he opted for the larger Xmax of the Kappalite. https://www.eminence.com/speakers/speaker-detail/?model=DeltaliteII_2515 I would likely need to move the SEOS down to as close to the woofer as I can get it to avoid lobbing issues but I don't see any other issues... what are you thoughts? This would be roughly $700 for 2 wave guides, 2 drivers, and 2 woofers. In the future I could build one of these for a matching sound stage: https://www.diysoundgroup.com/home-theater-speaker-kits/home-theater-series/home-theater-other/88-special.html

I have been looking for a single speaker for a while and finally found one in decent shape. I am looking to have a SINGLE Hersey moved from SOMERS CT to somewhere near YORK PA. I can meet with in a hour of destination.

I swapped the K130 for the K137... everything is much much cleaner. I'll give it a good listening test tonight and report back but for now it looks like I'll be needing a new one from Klipsch. I hope this is under warranty.

So does the speaker just suck then? I think Ill try switching the tweeters tonight and see if it sounds any diffrent... any other tips on testing the tweeter?

It is a new to me speaker... it always sounded funny to me. When replaced with an rb-35 everything sounds as expected.

Yes, the binding posts are jumpered correctly

I have a RC-35 that sounds muffled. I ran calibration w/o any improvment, then manually ran test tones and leveled the volume of the channels w/o any improvment. I tried to adjust the EQ again w/o any improvments... I reset everything in the reciver and then I switched the front channel RC-35 to a RB-35 and it made a world of differance. That seems to eliminate the amp / reciver as a problem. After that I switched them back and ran test tones for JUST the high freq inputs and the center channel was WAY low. I was thinking it had to be the X-over or tweeter at that point. I pulled off the front covers and it looks like the high inputs by-pass the tweeter completly. I check impendance then used a battery to "click" the tweeter... there was a very faint clicking but my multi meter seems to bleed down the ohm reading or slowly count down. I pulled off the front cover of my RB-35 to try and compare to see if I could hear / measure a differance and noticed that they have compeltly diffrent driver designs. The 'dead' sounding RC has a K-130 tweeter that is flat on the back whereas the RB has a K-137 tweeter with a large heatsink. I am scratching my head a little trying to diangonse the issue. I am thinking that the tweeter is bad, what do you guys think? Am I missing something? Thanks for any help, BCM