CANT

So dude never replied to any of my communications and appears to have not logged in since 11/26 (day after he joined and PM'd me) so I guess he wants to hold out for 402's? In any case, I think I'm going to put this sale on hold until after the holidays, when I'm not quite so busy... If anyone else is interested in these, please feel free to PM me, I just can't promise a quick reply with everything I've got going on in the coming weeks.

Not sure if it helps or not... but here is an old pic of one of the K64 motors I sold

How can you tell the magnet is larger (deeper)? I never noticed this? I would also note that this may still not be a difference between the 63 & 64... and may actually be a revision to the motor (magnet) or manufacturing variance. The CF line is obviously known for its "versions".

I mean part of speaker design is aesthetic...? I guess if you leave the grille on it doesn’t matter what you do under there but for me/to me it feels crowded? I’m also not sure hearing the speaker will completely explain the rational I was seeking insight into as well... I mean I’m sure they sound nice but they made the cab taller to fit both the ports and the 603 horn, why not one or the other? Why go to the trouble of making it taller? I know that the 603 generally sounds better than the 703 but sometimes there are reason you don’t go bigger? Sometimes something is good enough for the problem you are trying to solve? I mean the 402 is amazing by all accounts but I can neither afford them nor fit them in my home so despite their awesomeness they are not the solution for me. IDK?

Can anyone tell me, does Klipsch allow owners to buy replacement M models of the 703, 603 & 510 with valid serial numbers? I know that at times they have allowed such replacements/upgrades (think Ti tweet/mid diaphragms or K28E woofers for the Heresy) but was unsure what the current policy is? Also, how many members here have actually heard model variants with and without the M horns and what were your thoughts? It has always seemed like such a minor alteration to me, is it even worth bothering with? I am mostly curious about the 510 because I have been the least impressed with it in its stock/original form. Thanks

I'm kinda curious why the K603M over the K703M on the CW4... that motor board is CROWDED!?! 703 would have allowed a bit more breathing room and likely would have performed just as well? It seems to do fine in the FIII? Also, if you are throwing the kitchen sink at the thing why no K771? The H4 upgrades look nice but I have never cared for the 704 horn... it's always seemed like a weird series of compromises? I have like 4 of them in my garage and every time I think about using a pair they end up back on the shelf. I'm personally curious if there have been any talks about a 2way Heresy with a 703? The ones I built look like sh!t but I very much enjoy the way they sound...? There have been a few KPT models built this way over the years but none that I can think of that come in a standard rectangle shaped enclosure? Also, is the polyimide midrange driver just a new diaphragm for the K70? If so, is this something the KPT guys could use in stead of the titanium or was it produce specifically for the midrange application?

My guess would be that the one w/o the screen is likely just a very early production model? Possibly a different supplier/vendor??? The old spec sheets have the CF series produced from 94-96... it's hard to believe there was so much variation in such a short amount of time?

Thanks. I'm currently running some shipping numbers for a guy in NV... I don't know if it's because I'm out of touch or what but I swear every time I go to ship something like this out it always ends up costing like double what I was expecting?!

I don't tend to listen to music all that loud so I would say that most of my impressions are going to by at low or moderate volumes... I'm pretty rubbish at describing stuff like this too... Overall I just felt like the 3way 335s sounded more natural and had/has slightly better top end? But my preferences can seem to go against the norm, or at least what I see most everyone else doing. Obviously I prefer the 3way over the 2way with the 510. I definitely preferred crossing the 510 higher (800-1kHz) rather than lower (500Hz) when I did try the 2way. I actually even preferred the K603/K70G combo in 2way over the K510/K69 too?

1. What do you mean by "silver (not black)"? If it's just painted vs unpainted then I wouldn't worry about but if there are other, more extreme, physical differences then I would maybe hold off? 2. The screen is basically a bug/dust shield. It isn't needed but I have never seen one of these drivers without it? I have seen the K52H with and without a screen though. The difference is audible but not drastic and only really affects the very top end. 3. I have never seen any released specs for the driver but I also have never seen a part number for the driver on it's own.

Bought these to compare them to the KPT-335 HF/MF’s I already had and preferred the 3way 335’s... figured I would list them here before going to eBay. I would say that they are in very good shape but they have obviously been used. Tried to show any blemishes in the photos. Located in south Kansas City and asking $500+shipping. Will be boxing them up as soon as I’m done with this listing.

Either this guy had more than one pair or the 1st buyer didn’t work out... listing is $380 buy it now w/ $60 shipping https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123972481341

I had wondered about an Eminence H2EA as an in-a-pinch sub for the K510 for this application... haven't gotten around to buying a pair though If you wanted to go 2 way you could use the K703/K70G on top of a K48 in a Chorus enclosure with a simple KPT310 crossover, until another 510 materializes? I did something similar for a while? I personally wouldn't suggest a K510/K69 2way unless you were using a K691/DE750 though even then I would say I preferred the 3way.

To support what I was saying about he midrange being the low point, here are the active setting per Klipsch. This also, pretty adequately, displays the difference I was referring to in the bass bins (904 v 315). I would still keep in mind though that preference and application do still play a roll...

I am going to disagree with this on a few levels... from what I could tell, the tweeter was left a bit hot to compensate for the intended screen but only a few dB. Replacing the 2ohm resistor in that circuit with a 4.5-5ohm (2-3dB reduction) does the trick just fine. Also, the KPT335 (or at least mine) had a sticker on the back stating that, when used with a KPT-904/940 LF cab, the 904/940 cab would be 3dB louder and that output difference would need to be accounted for? In theory this would mean that when used with 904/940 you mid band is actually too low, though lowering the tweeter output may still be all that is needed, preference depending. Also, knowing what I know about the stock network and the ALK CSW you referenced, I would NOT in any way recommend the ALK as an adequate sub. 335 Spec sheet:

I would say that the 335's are everything I had hoped to achieve in all of my attempts to modify my Cornwalls... though I do wish they were more aesthetically appealing and came in a slight smaller footprint.

Looks like it’s now $225...

Appears to be an old version? The K510 looks a bit odd/off? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-Professional-Cinema-KPT-904-THX-Dual-15-Audio-Video-Subwoofer-B-C-Dri/202650834932?hash=item2f2eee57f4:g:XFcAAOSwOZNcrlBH

KPT-335 HF/MF ~ HF = K703 w/K70G, MF = K510 w/K69A https://www.ebay.com/itm/Klipsch-K-510-Tractrix-Horn-K-703-Tractrix-Horn-Setup-from-KPT-335-KPT-904/303130024666?hash=item4693f51ada:g:xMIAAOSw7SRcuNaW Also, even though he doesn’t appear to be taking offers I bet if you emailed him one he would consider it...

I personally gave up on Crown a long time ago... I’ve owned several including various XLS, D150, DC300 and a PS400... didn’t really care all that much for any of them

Something else I forgot to mention... while I was playing around with the 2way setups I did also test out a few different crossover configurations/points... again, the stock 800-900ish Hz won out. I absolutely did not care for the output when either driver was pushed to the horns 500Hz limit.

Per the Chief, the K691 is a DE75 with a slight mod to the diaphragm... though not confirmed, what I’ve heard is that the diaphragm is hardened? I’m not sure exactly how that affects the output/response of the driver but the DE75 is a fairly well regarded driver in its own right so for my purposes I considered it close enough.

For my part I will say that I did end up buying a preowned pair of B&C DE75s. I now know that they aren't exactly K691s but they were cheap and I was really only using them for testing purposes, so they are close enough. Switching back and forth was a HUGE hassle and I really wanted to enjoy my new speakers so I only did so much testing but here are my notes: *The K69A had significantly more energy/output above, we'll say, 5K... I don't remember the exact #. This would absolutely affect the crossover design so right off the bat I would say that the K691 isn't a plug and play replacement in this application. This increase in output/energy had a definite impact on the driver assessment in a 2way setting. *I didn't much care for the K69A in the 2way test. It needed a lot of EQ for the response to flatten out and to start sounding ok. *The DE75 absolutely looked/sounded better than the K69A in the 2way test but after all was said and done, I preferred the 3way... *I did try the DE75 out in the 3way but didn't like it as much as the K69A but that is to be expected since the crossover network was designed for use with the K69A. With a corrected network it would likely work fantastically but I'm not going to get into all that at this time. *KPT-335 with stock drivers was my preference at the end of the day. Though I did make one change... I'm guessing that because this speaker was designed to be place behind a screen the tweeter was left a bit on the hot side, so I replaced the 2ohm pad resistor in the tweeter circuit with a 4.5ohm I had lying around.

Thank you for the info

So, this listing was pulled because one of my cabs was damaged in shipment and they are sending me the cab from this unit to replace my damaged one... I'm not sure how they'll list them but I would be on the look out for the crossover, woofer and horns/drivers.