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Full Range

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Posts posted by Full Range

  1. WTB: Stanton 981 Cartridge - Can be Lzs or Hzs

    However I may consider the 881s

    Also the Pickering equivalent 7500 model would suit as well

    Fair market price will be paid depending on condition and stylus wear ect

    Missing stylus is OK as new replacements are available

    PM me if your unused / under-utilised Stanton needs to go to a loving home

  2. Full Range, if your ever up to the task of building your own chassis. There is a heat sink company there in Australia, I bet shipping wouldn't be so bad. One of the forum members at diyaudio.com used them and had great results.

    http://www.conradheatsinks.com/welcome.htm

    Yes I know of Conrad Heatsinks and was going down that path with the double flanged units

    Then extra contracts at work and no free time available I decided to get the 5U Deluxe

    Still getting a great Aussie toroidal from Harbuch

    And due to that lack of time I'm getting a friend to build my M2 for me - but I know he solders way better than me in a good OCD kinda way

    • Like 2
  3. I will use Panasonic for the 3 watt

    And for R1,2,3,4 - for dark background and warmth I am using non magnetic Audio Note Tantalums

    The rest is made up of Military Vishay and BOM recommendations

    Custom made 500 V GOSS ring shielded Toroidal from Harbuch

    A few other enhancement goodies in the power supply

    • Like 1
  4. Did anyone say La Scala Referb

    Sano setup! You've transformed those stock LS's into a pseudo tower speaker, very interesting.

    What is the story on the crossover? Did you buy a kit or figure out the XO values for yourself? I wouldn't even think of trying to design my own XO for a build that nice.

    The cabinets are a full DIY build started by another member and tweaked by me - you will see the driver combo used in my signature

    The Xovers are a highly modified ALK design

    XOver build see here - https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/149952-a-crossover-design-on-single-exposed-board/

    • Like 1
  5. Excellent work on your crossovers I am in the middle of doing new x-overs for my Forte's that will be exposed.

    I have learnt and experienced quite a lot in audible changes with component selection

    More than subtle changes have been observed with the Deulund resistors.

    However keep in mind and have a holistic approach to everything that's connected together as one component affects the other

    For most people these changes may not be perceived but for Klipsch Horn owners that have over 100db sensitivity it's noticeable

    Keep us in the loop with your build progress

  6. Props... thanks for the updates. I eagerly await my new AA's

    Later on this year I will probably make my final modification

    Just saving up several hundred dollars, to change out the Large Air Core inductors to Jentzen Wax 12 awg for the mids and 8 awg for the bass

    Will keep the members updated as I make any changes and report my results

    • Like 2
  7. Sorry I'm late to this thread

    I also have the Teabag M2 DIY kit with his power boards ( @wdecho ) roped me into it :ph34r: late in the piece and I was lucky to get the whole kit after the group buy finished

    Big parts are ordered  - 5U Deluxe Case with rear connection kit but they are still in transit for a few more days

    I was also fortunate to have sourced two types of transistor kits 

    Kit 1 - All Fairchild & Kit 2 Harris / Vishay

     

    Currently I am very very carefully selecting the components now to populate the boards

    I note that your total cost to build is less than me purchasing chassis - Currency exchange and transport ect  bump the price up 2.5 fold +

     

    Living in hope that I don't go over $1800 AU

     

    FR

     

     

     

     
    • Like 1
  8. A few weeks back I experimented with Paper In Oil (PIO) capacitors in the bass section of the crossover

    After living with the PIO capacitors for a while I have decided to go back to the Jentzens

    Not that they were bad in the scheme of things - just not to my palate

    post-57741-0-68480000-1461480571_thumb.j

    So on to another update

    Today I was left home alone and decided to get the soldering iron out for another small tweak to the crossover

    This tweak was made in the Tweeter attenuator section only

    Recently purchased 2 Duelund cast resistors and knowing that the other Duelund resistors I used in the crossover made a noticeable change I decided to swap over the current Path Audio to the Duelund cast resistors

    To make a neat and tidy job of it I repurposed and altered some small brackets to hold the much longer Duelund Cast resistor in place

    I believe that this particular resistor is called a 'swamping' resistor and in this possition it is used to help linearise the auto-former. ( If I'm wrong I would be happy to be corrected )

    Now on to the testing and listening report

    Warmed up the DIY First Watt F 6 Class A amp for about an hour then got down to business

    First impressions were instant, and a noticeable change for the better was observed, it's as if all the high notes are effervescent with life

    I was getting a tingle at the back of my neck to the top of my head from it

    Hard to describe the feeling but effervescent is very close

    I LOVE MY SYSTEM were my words as I shouted out in delight

    Normally one would expect vibrations from the Bass and Mid Range but this change has opened something in the higher octaves that I never knew was missing.

    So not only did the system reproduce the high octave sounds much sweeter, I was also getting a tingling feeling as well and that was totally unexpected

    FR

    post-57741-0-35040000-1461480975_thumb.j

    • Like 1
  9. Will you use button magnets to hold them in place On my La Scala grills that's what was used and work great

     

    WOW!  those are really nice, "Full Range"   :emotion-21:

    I will most likely just use Velcro.  Some small vertical strips will be installed to secure to.

    Thanks

    Magnets work a lot better, they are surprisingly strong

    Just one pair of button magnets per grill is needed

    And I also like grills - good trim and colour gives the La Scala a polished look

    • Like 2
  10. USNET's networks were built by me, it's called the "SuperX". I used AudioCap PPT Theta film and foils in the tweeter section, a high quality metalized ESA series ClarityCap at the primary, and a Mills non-inductive resistor. Newer units were getting the wax potted autoformer and coils. The air core for the low pass was by request. I also adjusted the high pass value for the speaker it was being used in. IOWs, it could be adopted for use in the Cornwall, Bob's CornScalas, etc. All of my networks retain the 2.5mH low pass value that Paul Klipsch assigned to the K-33 woofer.

    Since Al has put a permanent stain on this design by falsely accusing me of stealing it, I've decided to stop building it. I'm really okay with this, since I had seriously been considering dropping it anyways. It's a nice sounding build, but I prefer the sound I get using the Jensen PIOs and the Jupiters.

    With the stock parts, most prefer a 3dB drop in midrange output. This has nothing to do with the room, it's caused by the low loss parts. The original builds were somewhat lossy, and when you strip all of the resistance out of the filter, it sounds too hot.

    People using different horns, drivers, and tweeters have a legitimate reason to use these type networks. but the right way to do it is to find the correct level of attenuation for each driver, and then scale the network design accordingly. This also allows the use of higher quality/better sounding capacitors, since you aren't forced into using a 50-60uF capacitor at the primary position. Tweeters are a little more problematic since the ears are very sensitive to what's going on up there, and even though he's being a butthead, I'm still a big fan of his tweeter attenuator. I am however, not a fan of the other unit.

    The CornScala-wall network presents a good value. You can't get "good value" by working with expensive parts. I have built this unit exactly as sold, and though not something I would use, I thought the sound was passable.

    That's exactly what I did in my XOver build

    I use 3 different drivers from 3 different makers and all at varying sensitivity ratings

    It was essential to have attenuation to alter the db in each section to form a nice marriage and tune to the room

    I also tweaked some aspects of the design and used better quality parts than ALKs standard offerings as I am a convert by experience that better capasitors and resistors really do make a difference

    @Deang

    I just went to the ALK site ( first time in almost a year ) to see for myself and noticed that he has accused you ( not by name ) of steeling his design

    And just above that rant " Lo and behold " he has also taken exception to my XOver build

    He has not read the thread as to my reasons to build it in that way, and used an incomplete early stage unflattering photo saying that he hates the look and has given me a serve about the layout design and my choice of components ?

    On the build thread I respected his wishes not to post the schematic on the XOver due in part of his previous objections of people steeling his designs

    All I will say to this rant is WTF and ALK, get a life man. Understand that there have been XOver designers before you and there will be designers after you. All build on the previous designers ideas just like you did

    I will now be a gentleman and bite my tongue and take the high ground.

    • Like 2
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