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001

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  1. i had a pair of WL K-horns recently with some blemishes & damage to the lacquer coating & into the veneer a little in some spots on the faces of the bass bins as well as the lacquer failing & flaking on the tops.  ive done minor sanding & repairs on klipsch veneers before but for these i decided to leave it to a pro for fear of making them worse.  i called around to a few local furniture restoration companies & professional carpenters asking about repairing the veneer or even just sanding & applying new lacquer,  every one of them stressed that lacquer changes color with age & applying new lacquer in the needed places wont match the original areas of the speaker that were still OK.  i sold them a couple years ago to a member here & not sure what he did with them but the info i got deterred me from trying to do it myself or paying the prices they quoted for a fix that wouldnt match the rest of the speaker very well. 

     

    im sure you can improve the tops by sanding & applying new clear but be aware they most likely wont match the rest of the speakers coating very well.  the veneer is thick enough to allow for some light sanding without breaking through but like you said, that could open a can of worms if you need to sand too deep to get the water stains or other issues out.  dont mean to scare you, just mentioning the reality of matching old lacquer that has probably changed color.     

  2. yes i must've missed the sarcasm since there was nothing to indicate sarcasm, usually an LOL or smiley face etc implies that, my apologies if i missed that.  i was just replying to the price of these cf4s & some general info about ebay sellers prices.  not to mention, i only mentioned the price of lascalas or k-horns being very close to this price, didnt suggest anyone buy them over another speaker.  i'd mention what ive owned but thats kind of irrelevant.  was just some general comments.   

  3. what model sub is this? can you post a pic of the broken switch?  in general, the phase switch wont cause the sub to have no sound at all, but its possible being in between only 2 settings might have it in limbo & not sending the signal to the amp.  if its a dial it shouldnt matter if its halfway between but if its just a 2 way switch for 0-180 it could be stuck in the middle causing no signal.  a small screwdriver should be able to move whats left of the switch back to either side.     

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  4. 16 hours ago, Hamilton said:

    Been working on getting these new to me KLF-20s restored.  Crites crossover rebuild, titanium tweeters and reinforced the cabinets!  Been listening to them and one of my mid horns gets really shrill and noisey which is really apparent with hard rock guitar riffs.

     

     I took the horn apart to inspect it for any dust or foreign objects of which there were none.  Reassembled it and made sure all was tight but still the issue remains so guessing I'm in need of a new poly diaphragm?  There a sonic issue just buying one?  Was kind of expecting to see something to indicate it was damaged/ripped/dinged but looked perfectly fine!   

     

    also check the ohm reading of the one with the noise compared to the other one, they should be within a couple 10ths of each other.  shouldnt be too much if any of a sonic difference buying a single replacement but is a good idea to replace both at the same time, then keep the good one as a backup. 

  5. ...  hes been a member here since oct 2021...  

     

    cant say a fair price for newer 2015 K-horns,  but unless they are exactly what you want & very local for easy pickup,  i would suggest looking for a slightly older pair of AK3 that were into the mid-late 1990's,  they have the exact same drivers as 2015 last i knew & only a slight change to crossovers but those can be changed/upgraded if you prefer.  older ones will be about half the price or less than $9-10k & be 99% the same speaker. 

  6. 2 hours ago, HiFi Heaven said:

    KG 4.2's have MUCH more bass output than any Heresy.  Also the .2 series have passive radiators for better bass extension than the port on the .5 models.

     

    Agreed... heresy are nice but absolutely need a sub (if you want bass below ~50hz) for everything but maybe some low volume classical music... they drop like a rock below 50hz!  nothing wrong with a good 2 way, some of the best klipsch models are 2 ways. 

     

    the .2s passive radiators dont really have any better bass extension than the ported .5s, the 4.2/5.2 has the exact same freq response as the 4.5/5.5, but the bigger 5.5 has dual 10" woofers vs a single 12 of the 5.2,  the 5.5s are more efficient than the 5.2 also.  both versions of KG are great speakers for the used market prices these sell for.

     

    for the price difference of KG4.2 vs heresy1, i would much rather have 4.2s for probably close to half the price of heresy.  the mentioned pair for sale would be  $625-$650 with shipping.    

  7. 10 minutes ago, John Chi-town said:

    If you prefer a punchy and tight bass the forte IV.  The Cornwall with its 15-inch woofer and 15-inch passive may sound slightly larger, but INMHO the 12-inch bass, and 15-inch passive is more accurate.  It also digs a little deeper than the Cornwall.  I have compared both, and I am a 30-year owner of a pair of hot rodded forte II.  I have never felt as if I was missing something.  Also, no sub required.

     

     

    ??  Cornwalls are ported  ,  no passive  .  a sub would be required for bass below mid 30hz.  

  8. On 6/22/2022 at 10:26 AM, rklosinski said:

    I purchased a pair of Forte I's, and they came with a pair of PHT-409 (B-52 Matrix M6C-Comp) horn tweeters and a pair of Crites CD76TiM Domes. Should I replace the domes in my existing tweeters with those from Crites? Should I replace the entire tweeter with the PHT-409. If I do any replacements, should I change the tweeter filter in the crossover?

     

    im not familiar with that horn, but probably doesnt have much if any advantage over the stock klipsch horn.  you can just swap the crites diaphragms to the klipsch tweeter horns to see how you like them, vast majority of people that changed to crites love them & say they improved the sound over the stock ones.  can also try those PHT 409 horns to see how you like them.  changing to TI diaphragms doesnt require a change to the crossover.  

  9. On 6/22/2022 at 10:42 AM, anhingasc said:

    Sorry for the delay in responding, COVID and work travel.  So I reworked the PCB joints for the autoformer and still nothing from the mid?  Everything seems to check out, but I have two crossovers and neither is working right?

     

    may be a stupid question but i didnt see this mentioned regarding the dead mids... did you check the mid driver itself for proper ohm reading that will show if its bad?  i would be checking that first before taking a reading of the crossover outputs.   

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