Dave A
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Posts posted by Dave A
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CWOReilly is giving you good advice. I would check the freebies first. Back panel screwed in good and all drivers as well. The mid horn gasket gets hard over time and can make exactly that kind of noise. Something many overlook is a frequency generator. $50 bought a good used one for me off ebay and you can use them to check your cabinet and all components for buzz and rattle.
1 hour ago, CWOReilly said:That can and does happen. Sometimes it may just be something nearby that resonates. Try a tone generator and see if you can replicate the frequency. Or try the same song with a different source (something other than the CD). I've had source material produce some strange symptoms.
Again great advice. I have some music that did just this until I gave up trying to fix or find a good copy and threw the junk out. He has covered every base for you and if all fails an ohm meter and your newly acquired frequency sweep generator will tell the tale on a bad diaphragm.
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5 hours ago, Chief bonehead said:
Dave. Send me a pm
OK sent.
7 hours ago, Schu said:No... those are badged with the klipsch logo. The RD phase plug is an additional element that gets sandwiched between the celestion face and the 402 throat face... it's not inside the driver. The driver already has its own guides internally.
I would like to hear both types some day. I know with the 1132's the new phase plugs made a real difference over the old ones.
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Did you get the ones with Roy's new phase plug in them?
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7 hours ago, Curious_George said:
Exactly. Sounds like a suitable time for a Forrest Gump idiom, but I will refrain since I promised the moderators I would be on my best behavior.
You are a true forum paragon of steely resolve and diligence, a bulwark against negativity plus you did not need to google your answer.
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6 hours ago, henry4841 said:
Dave I doubt anyone on this forum has tried the experiment you are talking about. The way I would go about it though would be to use an adjustable L-pad and measure the amount of resistance you need then set the adjustable wire wound resistors to the same value. Calculate the parallel resistor using an L-pad calculator. A multimeter will help dialing in the adjustable wire wound resistors. I do not understand the reasoning behind what you are trying but look forward to the results. I have always done it like Curious George describes when I was experimenting with crossovers. In my present main system I found I need to use discrete resistors along with an adjustable L-pad to fine tune and have enough attenuation for the high efficiency drivers I am using. I could take out the adjustable L-pad and put in higher value discrete resistors but I honestly see no reason to. Nelson Pass designed a crossover for a pair of JBL L200's and used adjustable L-pads so I figure he does not consider them to drift enough to be a problem. Good enough for him then good enough for me. There are many laymen on this forum with no experience in the electronic field that will say how terrible L-pads are. I just ignore them. There is always going to be critics on most every posting on a social media forum.
My thought was to use crossover L-Pad calculators to get a value to start with. Then I could set the adjustable resistors to those values and tweak from there without having a drawer full of resistors of fixed value. Calculators are a place to start not finish unless you get real lucky.
6 hours ago, Curious_George said:A question about a questions usually infers clarification. This is how humans communicate effectively.
Or they are attempts to answer questions that were not asked. Well he really meant to ask ------- so I will help him out by asking the correct question he meant to ask.
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3 hours ago, babadono said:
So how involved to you have to get in the packaging of what you are shipping? Is that what nicky does want to get involved with? I guess it will depend on how much he wants them gone.
So far I have not had to worry about boxing etc. It has all been pro gear so nothing as fragile as say fancy veneer to worry about. I think it is all in an accurate description of what you want shipped and then see what needs to be done. Moving blankets have been provided for instance the one time I was worried about items. I imagine boxing could be done by the UShip agent also if covered and required by the seller.
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I have two drivers I need diaphragms for and indications are this could be a long wait to get them from Klipsch. So does anyone have a suggestion for an 80 watt horn driver that would do the same thing? I want to be able to restore a set of KPT-942/4's and use the stock Klipsch crossover that came with them.
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Talking to American Cinema today about diaphragms for two 1132 drivers and I am told I need to order them to get in line. Problem is that there is no ETA when they might ever get them and I don't want to wait. So anyone out there with some drivers?
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2 hours ago, Rudy81 said:
@Dave A, I guess you did not read the last sentence in the very first post.....
Bet I did. I don't ship speakers but I do have UShip make local pickups at my place. Buyer arranges the deal and I help load and off it goes. I mean they back right up to my shop door and you can't get more local. Way out in the country down a 1 mile one lane road.
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Sigh, I have two Xilicas and a Mini DSP HD and use a Xilica 3060 on my Super MWM's. I know all about electronic crossovers. What my question is though, and still is, has anyone used adjustable wire wound resistors to attenuate a passive crossover on the HF side.
Please refrain from answering this very specific question by suggesting it is not optimal or there are better ways etc. I want to talk to someone who has tried this and yes I have my reasons for doing so.
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Just sent another load off by UShip today. Sending a set of KP-301-II's with 115 subs off the same way next week. Not being able to travel is not a valid excuse. Unless of course those big bad speakers scare you and you want to avoid them.😏
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I have some resistors on order using that method too. My problem is attenuating a 109db 150 watt hf driver to a set of 99.9db woofers.
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Yes that is what I am thinking. I have tried some L-Pads but they seem to drift a bit.
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Yes I know that but my question is as posted. I want to hear from those who have tried these and what they found.
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Has anyone used wirewound adjustable resistors to dial in their HF? Reading about these and wondering if for experimentation purposes these might be the way to go to find correct values without having to buy tons of wire wound resistors instead. Yes I know those online calculators exist but not thrilled with them.
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4 hours ago, Crankysoldermeister said:
Ahem, exuse me. Something you can hear but can't measure?
Old post by Dennis about AlNiCo and mishandling. I'll see if I can find it.
Well something they could hear but could not measure. Of course with proper equipment I am sure they could have.😉
3 hours ago, jcmusic said:Well I don't really know nor do I really care about measuring anything that sounds really good!!! If it sounds terrific why measure???
Why climb Mt Everest too.
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Have you considered the possibility of lousy recordings? Far more of them out there then you might think. Audacity might help you and finding a better quality file of the same music might prove the bad file issue and not a tweeter problem.
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I am not going to fool with these. Bought originally to measure from to make SMAHL derivitives of and waited way to long to test them. When I did they were shot and I am not going to add the cost of new diaphragms to something that I have already spent to much on. So, you want them pay the shipping and they are yours.
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4 hours ago, avguytx said:
That's not MDF on those speakers...but definitely beat to crap. For about a third of that price it would be doable to either build new cabinets, and keep the backs. Those cabinets definitely aren't rocket science to build. But would have to be the right price.
I think you are right upon closer look. Wonder how many of the "some of the speakers don't work" problems go with the bad cabinets.
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Speakers require the garbage can. You cant fix smashed corners in MDF.
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My Marantz
in Lounge
11 minutes ago, jason str said:My Marantz 18 receiver Stereo Rehab has held for ransom is listed on eBay. #5189
Thoughts ?
OK what do you mean? Never heard of this before.
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If your room is large enough to fit them in no speaker is "too big". Golden rule for great sound where Audio rules and not WAF rules.
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3 hours ago, adam2434 said:
Any thoughts on this?
Yes, put it back in and run them. Save your money if you liked how they sounded to begin with.
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I thought the K-79 was supposed to be phenolic and in looking at a set of K-79's I have in the shop it looks like the Simply Speakers material. Phenolic by definition is cloth impregneted with synthetic resin. I have cut some a half inch thick in the shop but the same material in one layer of fine cotton cloth would be the same just thinner. I assumed since you mentioned the K-79 that is what the KLF-20 uses.
I see just now in further search though that the K-79 in the Chorus is listed as phenolic and the KLF-20 which also has the K-79 has polymer. So for what it is worth regarding polymer vs Ti I prefer the polymer in 1" diaphragms and find the Ti to be tinny and a bit harsh to my ears. I have no knowledge as to why they used two different materials here on the Klipsch diaphragms.
1972 Heresy question
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Laughing about this. I had two buzzers that took forever to figure out. One was a bug screen that had fallen loose and in behind the dust cap. The other was a screw stuck on the woofer magnet.