Dave A
-
Posts
4761 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Dave A
-
-
46 minutes ago, nickyboy6100 said:
Dave,
Its your fault I’m in this situation. Once I heard the SMWM’s, it was over for me. I think the MWM’s are the next best thing. The KPT-942 are very close.
I am a big box evangelist and adding you to my list of victims is a pleasure. Those four woofer bass bins are as close to horns as you can get in the Klipsch lineup. I still remember the first time I got my set of MCM-1900's right and you can never erase that sound and nothing will really satisfy you except that sound. Big Klipsch Pro gear is remarkable.
-
5
-
-
1 minute ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
A little? It actually borders on insanity!
Circa 2005-6, I drove my Mercury Sable to Connecticut from Michigan go buy a pair of Chorus II's for $350 from a guy motivated by divorce! They occupied the front passenger and back seat of my car. On the way back, a huge rainstorm left a million people without power. All the motels were booked, so I had to get in the trunk to nap so I wouldn't fall asleep at the wheel the rest of the way home! I also discovered the "5-hour Energy drink" at that time.
In 2013, I briefly lived in Indianapolis, where I designed and built my Quarter Pies to go underneath my K-402's, which still needed subs for HT, so I bought one DTS-10 from Iowa, and the other from Pennsylvania! This is the setup that Gnote heard and drooled over.
You guys that don't drive at least 5 states away to get used Klipsch are a bunch of Road Wimps!!
So what are you saying Claude? I am only driving to Jacksonville for speakers Monday so three states at best. I think I will go hang my wimpy head in shame now. ;D
-
1
-
1
-
-
15 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
Only 5 Grand? You got away CHEAP! LOL
He sure did heh heh.
-
44 minutes ago, Coytee said:
Anyone that drives for Klipsch speakers has to be a little nutty
Darned right. I would never do anything that foolish.
1 hour ago, ClaudeJ1 said:You are better off with horn bass. MWM's are one of the best woofer sections ever built by Klipsch, period!
He needs SUPER MWMs and then he can get rid of all the various setups. See in the end with disposal of all the rest of his gear he will actually be saving space.
-
2
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, babadono said:
I don't want yours, I want my own.
Talk to Travis.
-
Clarification on this. The list sent out was their retail pricing and the wholesale list was not sent out. Going up again yes but not nearly as bad as I thought it might be.
Interesting side note here though. I went to PE this morning looking for Kappa 12A's. On the Eminence 12" pro woofer page there were 14 listed and only one was in stock.
-
1
-
-
Can't have mine either! Really worthwhile event and I would go again in a heart beat. I think I remember Travis as being the one who did this.
-
Since the beginning of the Chinese Flu there has been a huge increase in Neodymium and most of this in the last 8 months. The prices increases I got on my list from B&C today are frightening and I have to call tomorrow to see if they are real and if I am looking at retail or the new wholesale pricing. The more Neodymium there is in the magnet the more the cost and this is going to effect every user of these magnets. We are going to pay a large price for moving our mining and manufacturing off shore for some time and these price increases are not going away any time soon from oil to steel to rare earths and everything in between.
-
2
-
-
9 hours ago, Klipschtastic said:
So anyway do you all have alternate pieces you rotate in from time to time?
Well yes I do. Sometimes a tasty 2 way, sometimes my Super MWM's and sometimes a KPT-942/4.
-
1
-
-
I can see tube amps not being enough. I have run a set just like that in my shop with a Crown XLI800 set at half way or 100 watts output per channel and it would be way to loud for my taste. All things considered those are very efficient speakers and sip wattage for prodigious output. To bad they did not work for you as they are audio monsters and rarely come up.
I think those bass bins were rated maybe 1600 watts? I would hate to be anywhere near them at those levels.
-
1
-
-
On 2/17/2022 at 2:08 PM, nickyboy6100 said:
Specs are on the net. They weigh around 250lbs. each. I drove 16 hours round trip to pick them up. Rented a Uhaul 5x8 enclosed trailer which made things a piece of cake. I’ve driven further for Klipsch speakers.🤪
That's right and to the person willing to drive goes the spoils. You can wait a lifetime for these to be at a convenient distance. U Ship has handled some larger speakers I have sold at a reasonable price and transported with care to the buyer.
-
1
-
-
On 2/14/2022 at 12:55 PM, PrestonTom said:
BTW, since Klipsch does not like selling parts to DIYer, it is possible that none of the vendors will actually be able to complete the transaction for you.
You can buy new complete sets all day long but no parts unless you have a set with serial numbers and are replacing an existing broken part. Something to consider here if you want a set with 1132 drivers. I have had old 1132 drivers with the old style phase plug and the new style phase plug. If I were to build a new two way system requiring 402's I would buy new and not hunt for old. The difference in sound quality between old 1132 phase plugs and new ones is pretty significant and you will only get those new phase plugs by buying new.
-
2 hours ago, chassell said:
Yep, and definitely hang onto that box for me. I'm keeping my eye open for projects as time and $ allow. I'll shout at you.
If you get bored come help me.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, chassell said:
Interesting stuff Dave. Looking forward to seeing these.
Does this mean you are going to pay me a visit soon? I have a box of inputs and industrial handles and old style corners that needs to go to someone before I trash them. You work on old stuff far more than I do now.
-
A 1uf and 1.5uf in parallel will work fine. I have started stocking caps I can add together for various values a while back as it works fine and cuts down on the amount of stock I have to keep on hand. Plus the ESR will be lower that way too. I am sure since this is a capacitor topic you will get a variety of opinions shortly. This however is what I do and no complaints from anyone. I have never bypassed caps and have no opinion on that.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, No.4 said:
interesting solution. I like the clean look of no fasteners visible from the front of the horn. I am assuming the extra holes on the driver mounting plate are for the fasteners that join it to the wooden portion?
Four of the holes are and the rest are for four different driver mounting screw patterns.
Dimensions are the diameter of the circle used to measure bolt patterns with.
3" with 5mm screw holes or 76mm
3" with 1/4" screw holes or 76mm
2.52" with 5mm screw holes or 64mm
2.008" with 5mm screw holes or 51mm
-
I am not a fancy wire guy. 12g zip cord with a good visible positive wire marker is all I need and buy it by the 500' roll. That 12g covers me for everything I might ever do and decent length runs. My needs are more than likely much different then yours but the goal is the same.
-
3
-
-
2 hours ago, geezin' said:
Wingnuts and studs?
I had thought about that and decided against them. The reason is while wingnuts might be more convenient the bolt and nut would allow to tension the bolt and then hold it in place while the serrated nut locks it down. To prevent loosening under vibration was my main reason to select the bolt and nut.
-
Not everything I come up with gets shown here nor do I even make some of everything that has been designed. That is part of the discovery process and there are times when inspiration gets ahead of common sense and you guys never get to see the wasted hours spent fiddling around with ideas. Well I guess it is not really wasted but surely is not productive either.
In any case I have had Klipsch heads after me for some time to do various things like for instance a wood horn for La Scalas and KHorns. Another one is a wood LMAHL. I have held off on this because that .2" flange that gets recessed into the motorboard cutout is plenty for the plastic and aluminum flanges. For wood however my fear was the ability of wood to split out at the corners where the bevel head screws went for mounting. I could have just had drilled holes and a flat bottomed screw but I did not like how that looked when modeled. As in one of those things no one see's but me.
Now how you get somewhere may vary from person to person and for me sometimes odd things lead to inspiration. I have had a couple of people want horn with no engraving on them so I removed it and they looked pretty good and now wood ones are only cut this way. So I think what if I remove the screw holes and the engraving how would that look and what would I do for mounting?
For better or worse I did come up with something. My concern here is you can tell people not to tighten something down or they can split or ruin it. What constitutes snug enough is a wildly variable amount depending on the person. Thinking of the few stripped screw holes I have had to deal with over the years of restoring Klipsch speakers and people with screw guns.
I think I came up with a way of doing it that is not fool proof but as good as the material used will allow for. First up is a front view.
Second up is an assembly view to see how it looks without the motorboard.
Third is the assembly showing how it would clamp onto the motorboard.
-
3
-
-
From PE today. If they are like every other binding post I have had they will not rotate unless you really crank down more then needed on them.
-
12 hours ago, sootshe said:
Apart from the binding posts.
I have no idea why attention would not be paid to this on a high end speaker. Especially when customers and posters bring it up and the price to fix is so cheap. It's like things get carved in stone for better or worse once released for sale.
-
1
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, sootshe said:
I agree with you on the point of them not being keyed into the fitting plates, as this will definitely cause issues with them coming loose over time.
Pretty sad to see this hasn't been addressed in a speaker of this calibre. Your 10 year warranty definitely won't cover the fact that they come loose, this is a bad engineering error, probably implemented by the bean counters.
If you decide to leave them as is, don't use the bare wire connection, as this will definitely cause them to come loose. Stick with the banana plugs & just make sure they are a nice tight fit for the length they will extend into the plug.
If these connectors will allow it I have migrated to fork crimp connectors for input hook ups. They have proven to not come loose on their own in my shop where frequent speaker changes would ruin banana plug connections. Bare wires and soldered bare wires have proven to be really bad about loosening on their own. You do your crimp right and tighten down on the fork connector and your problems are over.
-
2
-
-
-
35 minutes ago, Shakeydeal said:
If you think wind mills and solar panels are going to charge 500,000 electric cars you are delusional. But I’d love to hear your solution.
They will infuse the magik windmills with pixie dust so they will turn with no wind and the solar panels will be mobile so never subject to cloudy days or night.
-
1
-
Some Chorus 1 questions
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Not particularly so since you sell off the old drivers. Looking on EBay will give you good numbers on what you can expect to get and that reduces your overall cost. Tonight K-76 tweets for example are listed for a minimum of $75 each so $150 per pair assuming they sell for that.