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Dave A

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Posts posted by Dave A

  1. 13 hours ago, thebes said:

    Maybe they are fooling you by actually building a cable to spec. In other words, maybe they may have actually built a cable that actually transfers the signal instead of attenuating it someway or another.

     

    IMO cables are stereo bunkum. They were designed to  carry a signal not change it.

     

    Heresy's a wonderful speaker for what they are and have kept the company in clover through many a hard time. If they dug a little bit lower they would be unbeatable for their size.

     

    Construction. I'm a big fan of Baltic Birch. Adds a bit of juice or liveliness to the speakers, whereas MDF can be a buzz killer. I'll let both descriptive adjectives stand.

      That's what I think too and when I want to be amused I go to Audiogon and read up on $20,000.00 speaker wires. But if you spend more it absolutely is better no matter the physics involved in direct relationship to the amount spent.

     

      I have never heard the Heresy III's but I have heard Heresy I's and II's. The II's sounded tinny to me and I pulled the drivers out and there sat a tiny driver on the mid range and a tiny driver on the Tweeter and way thin wires to everything. On my shelf is a pair of K-55-v + K-700 horn's and that pretty well sums it up. I would buy more I's at the right price but I have no interest in the II's and above. Birch yes MDF no. Let me put it this way. If I were to build for myself I would choose Birch.

  2. OK with a red face  I will proceed and perhaps I can help someone out. I had a crackle in heavy bass songs on a pair of Fortes I had just reworked. I had ohmed and frequency swept all drivers while re-capping the crossovers. All was well I thought until I played them. I eliminated all possibilities of everything except one speaker. The woofer had a screw stuck to the magnet and all screws were accounted for visibly so I must have picked one up from my workbench somehow. When volume reached a certain level the crackle would begin. All is well and the errant screw is in the toolbox where it belongs.  

  3. 17 minutes ago, Marvel said:

    I see no reason why they couldn't stand in a verticle orientation. We were going to try that with the doubles at the college, but plans changed and they are stuck in storage and I no longer work there.

     

    Did you get the singles with k43 woofers? That would keep me from driving up to get them.

     

    Bruce

    If you were asking me I just sent money to Tim for four and I think that was all the singles he had left

  4. Funny you mention that. I had turned up a pair of KP-450's I bought the other day and the objects on my sheet metal table close by were hopping right along with the music. I bet the TL-770's would dump them on the floor.

  5. This is what puzzles me about this kind of literature. It also says " High acoustic output to below 20 Hz" and to me that means far lower than 40HZ and still at more than adequate volume levels and " High output ability in the 20- to 40-Hz range is also ideal for very-low-frequency synthesized effects, down-tuned bass guitars or pipe organ" which is exactly what I want.

     

      Would you also consider the Klipsch 884 to be in the typical ported pro box category?

  6. OK I have searched for an answer but have not found a good one. I read that cloth is claimed to be sonically transparent and wonder how much perf metal grilles interfere. It seems that the 62% open area is about as good as you can get and still have decent protective strength and what precisely does that flat 38% reflective barrier do to sound quality?

  7. I have one to top that. Two pairs 1984 pro La Scalas one missing tweets and the other the doghouse covers and K-33's. Cabinets beat up and you can own this dream for $1,600 and they will also let you keep those yummy AL crossovers to.  Probably signed too but covered in black paint.

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  8. On 2/8/2018 at 6:05 PM, jimjimbo said:

    Totally disagree.  I guarantee you will hear a significant difference between the two.  Jerry, if you could install both and do some testing, and if you have the time, please report on your findings.

    I can say for sure the older KP-250's with the cloth grille (mine are from 1989) and K-42-K woofers are much better sounding than the newer ones with the K-42-KP woofers. I have both in the shop right now and have played them side by side and the K-42-K woofer speakers are every bit as good as Forte's just lacking the same depth of bass. The crossovers are identical so I think I can rule them out. If I keep a pair for the other side of my shop out of KP-260's, KP-262's, KP-250 newer versions Heresy's or the older KP-250's the older KP-250's win hands down.

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  9. Well as the subtopic heading says subwoofers of all flavors so I ask. I want a good subwoofer and I have been offered some EV TL-770's. The specs are pretty good and seem to be quite close to Klipsch 884's. Does anyone have knowledge of these preferably you have heard them? How about the quality in general with EV?

  10. 13 hours ago, vasubandu said:

    I have to say that I am a bit surprised by the reaction to this. I am trying to think things through and make wise choices, not slap something together.  Nick at SI and another subwoofer designer you would know that I asked for advice both seem excited about the idea and have encouraged me. It may not work, but am I doing something wrong?

    Yes you are. You are not listening to the collective voices of reason that speak from experience so you don't have to learn the hard way. I think you just like the conversations and are not serious about arriving at a destination.

     

    16 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

    This has got to be a candidate for statement of the year.....wow.

     Hey Jimbo, My wife says the same thing when all she hears is boom boom boom from the shop. Does that count to? :D

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  11. On 2/9/2018 at 8:03 AM, pzannucci said:

    Not to split hairs but each speaker is not designed to a .5db tolerance from reference so they are all distorted by your thoughts.  I'd like to think of distortion as the components adding, modifying, or detracting from the input signal, individually from their design and tolerance intents.  Not necessarily as a whole as we know most of these speakers are not perfect matches to the pair or others off the production line.  Perspectives.

    Yes and you add the flavor you like to the mix.

      In machining there is a phenomena called tolerance stack up. What it means is that there is a design with basic accuracy specs. At every step of the machining process there are inherent deviations from out of center line end mills in tool holders to slack in xyz servos to deviance from true diameter specs on cutters. All these and more not mentioned add up and if they get out of hand will cause a part that will be rejected. I find this is true in all things and then you have to set the base line that can be met for purpose and cost of production. What I try to do is eliminate some of this by using good tolerance caps and match them as close as my handful of parts allows for speaker pairs and I always do both crossovers at the same time. The rest of the components stay as they are since matching drivers could get expensive quickly and I figure the best bang for the buck is going to be a crossover refresh. I fully understand nothing is perfect but the closer you can get to design parameters the better I presume unless engineers just pull numbers out of a hat for the heck of it and somehow I don't think this happens.

  12. 1 hour ago, pzannucci said:

    I think the point @Deang was making was the statement about distortion.  I think you are really talking a modification from what someone's frequency response intent was was when the speaker was designed.

    It's all going to be perception as I might love old dried out caps on a Heresy 1 since I don't like (to me) the shrill K-77 but others turn up the treble.  To each their own.

     

      Yes to what makes one happy. I like to fiddle around and achieve a sound that pleases me and not break the bank to do it. I would far rather get basic good crossover components and if I want to go from there change settings on say a graphic equalizer to get that warm fuzzy feeling. Then later I can change it to something else for another type of music. To me Dayton or equivalent caps give me the correct electrical values and then I have gobs of money left over to buy devices that can change the nature of my sound on every speaker I own when I want and how I want. It blows my mind how expensive some of these silly fru-fru caps can cost and then you have something that only works one way on one thing and I bet most of us could not hear the difference in a blind test all specs being equal.

     

      OK we can call it modification from original intent which is a polite way of saying we have distorted the sound from the original intent.  Either one means deviation from design specs. 

  13. Nope not an expert but in talking to some who I do believe to be expert and who use methodology to arrive at their conclusions I regard highly I have arrived at some conclusions. I get out the trusty old B&K 885 and measure the old capacitors I remove with high ESR and measure the new ones and hear the difference and see the ESR at like .001 compared to typically .2 to .5 or more. I see the specs on the expensive ones that are not any better than what I measure with Erse and Dayton and can't see any reason to argue with the advice I have been given. You have my attention so please explain what the difference is that would compel me to spend much more to rebuild a crossover.

  14. Good hi spec polypropolene caps like Dayton work just fine and are cheap and available down to 1% tolerance. If you like to introduce distortion that is preferable to your ears you can spend gobs of money and get looser tolerance designer caps and fine tune it to your tastes but be prepared with your wallet. Erse is good too just make sure to order what is in stock if you don't want to wait for parts. I lean towards wanting to hear what I would at a concert and those people don't use $200 2uf caps to produce what you hear so neither do I.

  15. Cutting apart the old KD-15 today and it was my first time looking at the weight that tunes it in for a specific speaker. It does not show up but the weight is 3.6 OZ.

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