Dave A
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Posts posted by Dave A
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Looks to be a variant of a Heresy but way more complicated crossover. What was the purpose of doing this and did it require different woofers and mids/tweets than the Heresy's? If this crossover does something special I would like to build a pair. The guy had just the two cabinets and one TH-SR-2 and one TH-SR-3 crossover and all the guts were gone so I am left guessing. It wont take much to upgrade the TH-SR-2 which was designed to work without a tweeter. Why would Klipsch elect to do that anyway? Kind of wondering if all the extra stuff on the crossover was for a K42 and not a K22 woofer.
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Anybody have some they wish to sell? I bought an oddball set of Theater Heresy cabinets and now I need to fill them.
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"This speaker-repair-center is kind of a crap shoot unless there are some folks here who have used them. "
Yes for sure. I bought a re-cone kit from simply Speakers where they stated it was a direct Klipsch parameter replacement and then when I asked for exact specs it was 96db and not 98.5. My problem is the pile of growing speakers like K-43 and K-42-kp"s I have and would like to restore these. Klipsch is expensive and for the money Eminence makes fine speakers. I have never tried Crites but I don't believe he had a direct replacement for the K-42-KP's of which I now have five. The K-42-KP is a problem because the recommended replacements I have bought all are a bit different in the casting size so either the four clamps wont clamp or the woofer hole needs to be routed out or both. Finding quality speaker repair has become a real problem for me and new Klipsch prices take to much out of my pocket to ever come out ahead in repairing Pro speakers for sale. I may just start machining clamps for the KP speakers myself and eliminate that problem at least.
The only Nashville speaker repair guy left has had a set of K-42-KP's for over four months now and I have had next week done promises five times and he was paid in advance for this. Went by his house last week on an unrelated trip and he told me, after promising me they would be done the day I stopped in, the re-cone kit people had sent the wrong one.
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Hi John,
I had the same fuse question for a pair of KP-320's I bought recently. Marked on the input cup was 4 amp low and 1 amp hi. What was in there was 20 amp and the woofers had been blown up literally. I was told that pro speakers came with 20 amp fuses from the factory per installer requests so they would not have to climb up in the air to fix things. The speakers were supposed to be protected electrically downstream from either remote fuses or other electrical circuit limiters. If this was not done then follow what is on the input cup was the advice I was given.
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Parts Express has a new link to a re-cone service with prices so cheap I wonder about it. I may take a chance on it for one speaker just to see. https://www.speakerrepaircenter.com/studios
I wonder just how does one check a kit out for specs that duplicate the original. Is there some way to measure this?
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13 hours ago, WMcD said:
There is a youtube showing how to center a voice coil to avoid buzz. Some tone generator freeware apps for use with Apple and Android are shown.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpMYZq-qQNo
WMcD
OK that has bearing on what I want to do. I specifically and only I am interested in working on a speaker or driver one at a time to verify there is no voice coil problems primarily rubbing of any sort. Again what I want is feed back from someone who has used this type of device to analyze this specific problem of voice coil rubbing which I assume this is for. I want to speak to someone who has done this with this type of equipment to learn specifically what to do. The guy who was using this type of device is considered the best speaker recone guy in Nashville now and he checks speakers this way. I assume since he does it for a living there is a reason he does it this way. He is not going to show me how to do this so I need advice from someone who will be willing. I want to know why he does it this way and not with software and IPads phones etc.
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OK I can believe in software because I use it daily for design and machining. I looked at REW though and it appears to be for a different purpose than analyzing a single driver for things like voice coil rubbing. The guy I saw use one went from low to high Hz and back and would listen for any frequencies that caused strange noises and check ohms out to. If they had no bad noises and ohmed OK he would say they were good. What I want to do is specifically test individual speakers for problems. How does REW allow for that? I don't care about rooms I just want to check drivers with speakers I am working on.
I have the B&K manual and thanks for the link. What I want is to talk to someone who has used one of these before for speaker testing.
I am open to alternatives but the speaker rebuilder used a function generator and this thing only cost me $59.00 with shipping so if it does the job I don't want to look further.
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A guy who has repaired speakers for me in the past used a frequency generator to test speakers with. Has anyone here done this and if so can you explain exactly what this does? I bought a B&K 3011B off EBay pretty cheap and can duplicate the sounds I heard when the speaker guy did it but don't know how to interpret what I hear.
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On 10/12/2017 at 8:29 PM, pbphoto said:
Well said. I would wager the OP will probably not hear any improvement going through an outboard DAC and then piping that output right back through the same DAC inside the AVR he's currently directly connected to via HDMI.
On 10/12/2017 at 12:47 PM, Ski Bum said:Correct or not depends on if you're interests lie in the truth of the matter as it relates to the reproduction of audio vs. the commercial interests of a DAC vendor. You have to provide more substantial and convincing evidence than you have, at least if the truth is your aim.
Just because you felt there was an improvement, you have not established that there actually would be, outside of your own expectations and foreknowledge influencing your perceptions. Under what conditions did you perform your comparison? Any bias controls whatsoever? You've probably fallen victim to what Feynman pointed out, that the easiest person to fool is ourselves. To subsequently report your subjective opinion as unvarnished truth, as justification that the OP should use to buy kit he doesn't need and may or (more likely) may not provide any audible improvements, is NOT correct.
What these guys say. There is a propensity here to throw dollars at things and many times I begin to think it is bragging rights driven. I can understand if it is a hobby and people with gobs of cash want to play around but I am assuming the OP wants an economical effective solution that works for his purpose. I intend to buy an Onkyo 8270 and use it to drive audio from my PC workstation to whatever speaker I am using that day. I may at times use it to feed my Crown XLi 800 because I think the commercial amps provide a more realistic concert performance environment since it is a commercial amp and produces the sound you hear at concerts the way it was produced at concerts. But it was only $235.00 delivered and has way more power than my ears could ever stand. These are the only things I would ever buy at this time to feed my speaker monsters using my PC as a source. Good cheap used Crown amps are all over the place if you want to go that route. Check out the Onkyo specs and that yummy DAC: 384 kHz / 32 bit output for just $100 dollars more at Parts Express. As cheap as $439 on ebay with factory warranty. Or buy this and that and the other thing and tinker.
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There is a supplier of 1" Baltic Birch in Nashville. 5'x5' for basically $50 each with tax. It is not that much more than 3/4" and I bet a lot stiffer. My bet would be it would have to help too. I know the best sounding La Scalas I have had out of five sets are the Industrial one piece fiberglass coated ones that I kept for that reason. Yes the K43 woofer helps but the stiffer cabinet does too I am certain.
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I have searched the forum and the crossovers sticky and I can't find the schematic for this KP-3.2B KP-320 crossover. Anyone have this?
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I have a pair of KP-480-SW's. They look like KP-115's but the input cup says KP-480-SW Passive Crossover. Is there any information on KP-480 variants you have"
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Got my B&K 885 in and the answer is no they cant be measured in place. Going farther than this with analytical equipment wont happen here so it looks like cut , measure and resolder.
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So what did the 1" plywood do for the sound quality? I am thinking of building a Cornwall or Cornscala out of 1" Baltic Birch and figure it has to help.
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ANYONE please help me answer this question. I have people beating me up on a listing telling me that my KP-480-SW's are KP-115's even though the input cup says KP-480-SW. I know not everything with Klipsch is well documented at times but I have a problem and I sure wish somebody could answer this.
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Still looking for info on the KP-480-SW. Anyone know anything about KP-480 variants? I have questions people are asking me I can't answer so any help is appreciated.
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Need to find four of these.
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That is what I intend to try this coming week. I had asked the question because I might get direction on which LCR meter to get. For some reason I thought I had read somewhere that you could do this. I have ordered a meter now so it will be what it will be.
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Hey folks they are relisted on Letgo. Listing says Helena Al and pickup in Alabaster Al. Here is the text. Read what I saw in person and have a laugh at what they said again. Really hope no one believes them and buys these out of ignorance. These should be CLNO (cornwall laminate not oiled) and not CWO.
73 Klipsch Cornwall Speakers $1000 firm
Cornwalls are an American audio icon.
73 Klipsch Cornwall, rare Vertical horns and Alnico tweeter and squawker.
THEY LOOK AND SOUND BEAUTIFUL
Rare gem pair of Klispch Cornwall. They were made in 1973 with vertical horns and risers. Model CWO (walnut). The squawker and tweeter have Alnico magnets.
Drivers:
K-77 (Alnico tweeter)
K-55-V (Alnico Squawker)
K-33-P (woofer)
Condition: I would give them 9 out of 10. Amazing after 44 years The grills and emblems are perfect. I took pictures of everything, you can see how nice they look and every flaw too, you will love them. Everything is original. The grill cloth (cane) is wrapped around the front plywood that the drivers are mounted into and it is not removable.
They sound phenomenal; with hard to find vertical horns, the squawker and tweeter are mounted vertically and the woofer is off set. The speakers can be used upright or on their sides.
These 1973 Vintage Cornwalls might possibly be the best loudspeaker made. Google them and read the reviews.
Pick up only in Alabaster -
Is it possible to check capacitors without unsoldering one end?
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It seems to me there is a huge market of audio capacitor makers who cater to ego. More money spent does not mandate more or better results. IF I were to even consider doing this to a new speaker I would want to hear first from a guinea pig who has already volunteered to harm his setup. My number one complaint about online forum information is the attachment of ego and personalities to what should be straight forward information. There is a study online where some guy looks at tons of capacitors and his list is chock full of nonsense where capacitors can run you up to $600 each but somehow when you get right down to it the measured electrical values are the same as my cheapo Ersa or Solen caps. Maybe it is the voodoo spell they incorporate into the $600 dollar build that makes it worthwhile. I fail to see how exact same measured values between differing caps can result in harmonic bliss vs crummy sound. I might be wrong but I will have to see and hear evidence to the contrary which I have not yet.
However if you have the money to burn the discovery process can be fun I suppose. Do most of the people who try these things even have the hearing capabilities to discern subtle differences or is their hearing impaired through age and abuse and the effort is wasted to begin with. There is a ring tone kids use that their parents cant hear because the pitch is to high for instance.
I would do this to one speaker first and play before and after side by side and switch the two channels back and forth if you insist on doing this before I did it to both.
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As the title says. KP-260's will fit to. I can make these but the Klipsch logo is beyond me.
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Hoping to spare someone what I went through today. If you see a listing like this in Alabaster Alabama beware. represented in the listing as Walnut and condition 9 out of ten. Hooked up and ready to play. So I drive the 320 mile round trip. I get there and the son had supposedly taken the Monster cables and so they could not be played. Of course there were no others available either. The husband left in "anger" over this before I got there and the poor wife is left to show me. Well they are walnut laminate and yes it was a good job but hardly walnut. They wanted a thousand which I would have paid for an honest listing. Who knows but what the husband was not just hiding upstairs and this was their excuse to not have to play them. I offered 500 and quickly reconsidered and offered nothing and left the pestilential flea ridden house to the proud owners of the bogus Cornwall listing. You have been warned.
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OK here is the schematic for the KP-480. The caps that are on there do not have a negative or positive marking and the 1 uf cap is one of those old blue Mexico ones. So therefore nothing special as far as I can see. I know in machining there is tolerance stackup where every little discrepancy leads to overall loss of tolerance so you eliminate them where you can IF it is required to meet specs. So I am back to asking why a 1 uf on top of two 100 uf? Is a 1/2 percent cap value relative to the aggregate really meaningful when the tolerance slop is far greater? Replacing these and duplicating what is there is not a problem I just don't understand why it was done this way and what difference that 1 uf cap makes.
WTB K-53-K
in Garage Sale
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