The History Kid
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Posts posted by The History Kid
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1 hour ago, dtel said:
To me if the room is not wide a center may not even be needed, I always wonder why some people have them when the room is skinny enough to where all 3 are almost all touching. I say this because it's much better to not have one with good mains compared to a weak one which will not improve anything, or make it worse.
In a shinny room it can work, Treat the mains like it's 2 Ch, toed in and the sound appears to come from the center where the Tv is anyway.
Phantom center configurations are underrated. I think that's because salespeople and the companies producing processor chips keep drilling it into people that you somehow will get inferior sound without a dedicated dialogue channel, while it can cause timing issues if you have them too close together - from experience. Comb filtering is another issue I've wondered about in tight-fit setups.
Good thoughts!
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11 hours ago, Turbonated said:
Now that I keep reading these comments it puts me in a shitty mood.
That's not at all my intent, and the idea that you feel ripped off certainly shouldn't be the case if you're satisfied with how they sound.
Your question was related to the center however, and the straight answer to your question was "no". The R-25C is what's matched. There are other options out there, it really just depends what you're looking for ideally. If you have plans to upgrade later, you get the more gnarly center, if your intent is to stay with what you have, you get the most sonically close to what you have.
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1 hour ago, Turbonated said:
I've decided to pull the trigger on a center channel. I have a pair of R-28F's and I've been thinking about an RC-62 center. Problem is I cant figure out for the life of me what cones match my R-28F's for color, is it the RC-62 or the RC-62 II's?
Color isn't what's important here.
What's important is timbre matching, component matching, and ensuring that the soundstage at the front matches. You can run into a very glaring issue if you mismatch speakers at the front, since that's where most of your dialogue, music, and effects are located. In your case, you're using the R-28F, the entry level speaker that Klipsch offers. It features a 1" aluminum tweeter, and 2 8" IMG cones. These are not interchangeable with the Reference II/Premier line which has titanium tweeters and cerametallic cones. The crossovers are also different.
The RC-62 would run all over your R-28F towers, which is not what you want at all.
K5SS pointed out the R-25C, and that is the center channel that is spec'd for all of the Icon/Reference series speaker lines.
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A hell of a deal. No reason to not buy both at that price. Do not let their size fool you!
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15 minutes ago, chadaddyo said:
I love them dearly. I love my wife more. She hates the size and looks of the pair. My wife is better looking in all respects, so I'll keep her. The RF-3s sound better though.
The audio-head's natural born enemy, the Wife. lol
GLWS!
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Yes. The speakers are passive and will need amplification to power them.Thanks tigerwoodkhorns and The History Kid.
Do I also need to buy something called as amplifier to connect the subwoofer and speakers to the TV? -
I think I remember the thread you're talking about. That was before Bob and I decided to experiment on the RF-3 II Crossovers. (I say we, but Bob did all the work, all I did was send him the old XO's.) Until then, there were no real XO mods/updates to the RF-3 design that I know of.
I don't buy into auto-cal myself, so you won't see me complaining about your decision to opt to drop the idea of YPAO. Manual calibration has always been my cup of tea. You may or may not find the sweet spot between the KSB's and the RF's, but you might find it between other RB/C/F/S models. The closest relative of the RF-3 series that's not in the same family would be the 35 series. So if you're coming up empty handed on finding the identical matches, there are alternatives.
I highly advise NOT getting the RC-3 that supposedly "goes" with the RF-3's. It struggles to perform, and is not at all similar to its successor models (35 and 62). Poke around in the garage sale section here, too. Good deals to be had. I think @opusk2k9 has a pair or two of RB-5's that would work well either as mains or surrounds and use the same 8" driver and 1" tweeter as the RF-3's.
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The 1040 is a perfectly capable system, so if you're satisfied with it, I'd stick with it - especially if you're in no rush to upgrade. YPAO on a newer Yamaha is going to do the same thing YPAO on your current RX-A does. Really the only things I'd look at are the center (as you've said), surrounds, and maybe an external amp. You might look at the XO upgrades for the RF-3's that Bob Crites has too.
Recommended surrounds:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.XKlipsch+RS-3.TRS0&_nkw=Klipsch+RS-3&_sacat=0Recommended center:
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You got a great deal on those RF-3's. Don't worry too much about the MK.I or II thing, the only difference is the Z series wiring, which I've never been able to hear a difference with. I've owned two pair of them, and still have my original ones that were gifted to me in the early 2000s.
The KS's are the first generation Synergy's...so there will be some considerable timbre matching discrepancies. The good news is that the build quality of the first and second generation Synergy was superior to the build of the later generations and subsequent lines. I can't imagine that YPAO would be unable to make it sound good. Are you partial to Yamaha or open to other options, and what is your budget?
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5 minutes ago, teaman said:
I know it always makes me act when I've been sitting on the fence about something. Heck for $260 I almost bought that UPA-500 from you!
I'm gonna put the Yamaha on there, you could always buy that
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Yup. I guess nevermind on the Emotiva gear. They both sold already. Not even up 2 hours. This 20% off sale helped out quite a bit.
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42 minutes ago, willland said:
Or get the Integra and add the Acurus.
I ended up pulling the trigger on the Integra because of how pleased I've been with their units so far, the better feature set, and the better power supply.
Heck of a price on the Acurus, but I sense the feeling that this is peer pressure into buying stuff. *sigh* I'm vulnerable. lol
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Bumped to add some Emotiva gear, I'll get pictures another time when I'm not sick.
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I mean...the system will work without it, but they ARE 3" drivers. You really need a sub with them, at least the R-110SW or R-112SW.
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I got into "better than shelf-system" audio with Yamaha back in 2002ish? I think? (Brain is foggy right now).
Anyway, when Yamaha did all of their reimaging of their AVR's in 2008ish, I kinda started to dislike how they sounded. There were no Yamaha AVENTAGE models at that time, it was the blank space between the RX-Z7/11 and the RX-V something or other.
I've heard good things about the AVENTAGE line, enough to be able to recommend it to some people here, but I remain skeptical simply out of remembering the dissatisfaction from the 2008 models (and again in 2012 - though my experience there was with an HTR model - ew). I'm looking at an RX-A2030 to replace my MC-700 as I'm totally fed up with it. I have a UPA-500 that I'm not happy with either that powers my center and 4 surrounds (mains are handled by an XPA-2 and UPA-2 which are going NOWHERE). Yamaha spec's the 2030 at 140 W with 2 channels driven, but that's at 1 kHz.
Does anyone have any input on the 2030, and have a better idea of what I can expect power wise with 5 channels driven (center/surrounds)? Would I come out over 80 W (which the UPA-500 provides)? How's the sound on the 2030?
I'm also considering the Integra DRX-3.1. The Integra has a beefier power supply, rated at 100 W from 20 Hz. I feel the Integra might have a more honest power rating.
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On 5/31/2018 at 10:54 AM, SemperFiAg08 said:
I've seen this response many times on this forum and other places and many who would put the Emotiva right up there with them.
Is there any reason why you put those two ahead of the Emotiva and why you wouldn't consider it?
I'd like to chime in here.
I jumped onto the Emotiva bandwagon in 2014. That included purchasing a pair of Fusion 8100's, ERC-1's, and other items. Both Fusions broke down. Both ERC's broke down. The Fusions had terrible handshaking issues with HDMI which Emotiva said they fixed, but they apparently didn't. When the last Fusion died, I figured I'd give Emotiva the benefit of the doubt and purchased an MC-700. I regret that decision daily. It locks up, the setup is not even sort of intuitive, configuring anything on it is a chore, and some basic features are left out on it. I've heard similar processor hangup on every single Emotiva processor - I don't hear that kind of thing for other more well known brands. I may stick with Emotiva amps on the used market, but I'll never shop Emotiva direct for anything. As soon as I have the money and find something with 4K on clearance, this MC-700 is gone.
Go with the Anthem.
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3 hours ago, haydukej said:
Not arguing, just adding my Google-fu to make the pile bigger.
In the 1960s, General Electric had some gimmicks to set themselves apart from other record player/radio companies. One thing they had on some models was a "record saver." It was a slot with fur sweep that was intended to wipe the dust off your 45 RPM records
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Wonder if you were supposed to turn the records in there to "brush" off dust? Nice job on the restoration.
Nice find. It's quite possible that's what you'd do. Certainly no fur sweep left, just rubber lining. (in before innuendo)
1 hour ago, Marvel said:Just cruised through one of the local Goodwill stores. Saw a console, beautiful shape, $19 that is a GE, looks to be a match for yours. It has a sold sign on it. 😬
Bruce
Ohhhh dear.
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Just now, dtr20 said:
Looks like the tweeter is located slightly different between the 2 versions
I see it, now that you point it out.
Sorry, Jim
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I see that the 2s are a little bigger, but we are talking grilles, right?
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2 minutes ago, DizRotus said:
They’re different.
I dunno, I just compared my H1 grilles to the H2's...if they are different, then my eyes are definitely playing tricks on me.
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Should work either way, shouldn't they? I don't think they openings on the grilles are any different between the versions - though I'd have to look and see.
Anyway...PM sent.
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Make sure to post back and let us know how you like it. And we do love photos!
That R-S700 should serve you wonderfully.
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The "Record Saver" as I understand was lined with rubber (it still is) and supposedly made it easier to replace the vinyl back into its sleeve. I don't see the purpose/point to it, but it's the token original piece I left that was part of the original system. It's not there really to be functional as far as I'm concerned.
The backs are sealed. There are three boards on the back, one for each speaker, and one for the electronics segment. The wire to the speakers runs into the side of the speaker enclosures through the electronics segment, so there's no wires coming off the back other than a power cable.
There's a few minor cosmetic things left to do...
Here is where the amp and the disc player are located. They both are courtesy of willland, and were the third pieces to come in for the system. The 40.4 puts out plenty of clean power to really get the Heresy's jumping. The plan is to place a pair of AC Infinity fans at the rear of the electronics segment in order to ensure constant airflow/displacement and rear-ported cooling.
The DPS-10.5 is a monster of a disc player, and weighed even more than my ERC-1's weighed. That's a heavy duty hunk of metal, and it works like a charm. Every now and then it likes to hangup on booting, but a reboot usually resolves that. I'm using a TOSLINK for the output from this to the 40.4.
Next to the amp and disc player on the bottom shelf is space for vinyl. The size of the collection we have outweighs the amount of space we have available in this cabinet, but that hasn't stopped us from using it. We have a separate storage area for excess vinyl, but the most played stuff has found its new home here.
Since the big thing today is digital and mobile media, and the Integra is finnicky when it comes to streaming services, I opted to add a 3.5 mm jack running off the back of the amp. This is on the far side of the record player, and when totally finished will include a charging port, a fan, and the compartment sealed from the bottom.
Just behind the 3.5 mm jack, you can see speaker wire running in through one of the slots to the modded Heresy to the right. These spaces were cut just large enough to run wire through. You can also note the marks on the wood around the square cutout where the original solid-state amplifier used to sit. The amplifier had a damaged tuner section, volume pot, and corroded wiring. Instead of restoring it, it was decided to replace it with a modern amplifier with a built in preamp. The previous preamp would have been mounted just behind the top of the console (see upper left, where there's a screw hole). The original connections included 1 for an 8-track, 1 for a tape deck, and 1 mono output for an external speaker.
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Pardon the dust on these, I have not yet cleaned off the gear from things that were mounted in place.
The left and right speakers shown here originally had the nasty green fabric I mentioned earlier. The fabric that is there now, I purchased from Bob Crites, and is a beautiful gold color with black stitching. The pictures really do not do the fabric the justice it deserves. I highly recommend that cloth to anyone who's wanting to accent red or dark wood finishes. He sent me a whole roll too - I have so much of this stuff left, I could probably refit several Klipschorns. We're currently thinking about refitting the fabric on the 1981 Heresy OO's in the other room.
To compensate for the golden grating across the front that's bronze - I reinforced the edges with some additional staples, and even included a few extras in the middle to reduce rattling. They don't budge an inch anymore, whereas before they were quite fluid in movement.
The original turntable was the gem to my grandmother, it held up to 6 vinyls at a time and would cycle through all of them. Unfortunately, the build was cheap, and when I got under the hood, I discovered that many of the wires were frayed. When I examined closer, I also discovered that the stylus was cracked and that the turntable itself wasn't at all steady or even balanced.
Diz supplied me with an SL-1500 which ended up being too tall for this space. The Pioneer PL-990 was much slimmer, and it effectively did the job and fit in the space, with just enough room to hit play and stop. The top of the turntable meets where the lip in the console is, effectively matching near what the original turntable had in height. There's about 7 inches worth of clearance between the stylus and the top of the console. The wires filter down underneath the turntable, as the original did, into what is now the wire compartment.
Original to the design of the console, it had a Record Saver. This is the original chrome piece from the original build. Since there was no damage done to it, I opted to keep it for the retro style. It was pretty gritty though, so a good cleaning made it shine again, it's dusty again now, but it was the first refitted piece to go into this console, so most of that dust is from over 12 months of work being done on the system.
More soon.
So i just bought a pair of rf-3's for $150 but...
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
eBay has both silk and titanium diaphragms the last time that I checked. I prefer the titanium, but some like the silk - you should be able to find them simply by searching for the RF-3 diaphragm. Since we were talking Bob Crites in your other thread, he might also have new diaphragms, but I'm not sure. eBay is the only one that I know for sure you could get exactly what you wanted.
The good news is that those should be relatively cheap to replace, so good deal still!