ninjai18
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Posts posted by ninjai18
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I was wondering why the RF-5 has a higher crossover frequency of 2500hz compared to the RF-3's, which is 2000hz~. This makes no sense to me, as the RF-5 has a larger horn, and I do believe the rule of thumb is, the bigger the horn, the lower the crossover point, the better the sound. Can anyone explain why they did this?
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Terrorism is what we do to animals. How we treat sentient beings like property.
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Anyone know if they might be releasing a mk2 series for the Palladiums at any point? Would be cool to see them further refine and upgrade the series.
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I tried inside the horn (see photo of a Peavey horn) but I didn't like what it did to the sound. I ended up with a strip around the edge of the horn on the outside sounding the best to me - but the effect was not dramatic.
Robert
Ah, I see, very cool.
How thick is that foam? And I assume it's open cell foam? -
The baskets on the H3 woofers have had lengths of one inch plumbing pipe which was split length wise glued to each strut and slices of pipe just the right size to fit between the magnet and the top of the basket also glued into place. This keeps the motor assembly from rocking and the basket struts from flexing. I installed two 1/8" layers of SAE rated F-11 acoustical felt over the spider.
I can assure you that your doubts about not being able to hear the spider talk are wrong. The impact that this single mod has upon the quality of the sound especially the bass is amazing and needs to be experienced. I hope that is of interest to those who are wondering if there is a little more to be had from their speakers. Best regards Moray James.
I am actually still trying to get my head around exactly how you permanently mount it and where it goes, exactly...
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One mod you might like to try is placing some foam around the mouth of the horn just on its outer edge. I ended up using 10mm open cell sealing strip. The foam seems to level out the response above 5kHz. I found the effect on the level is measurable.
In my opinion the effect on the sound is not massive but it does make it a little clearer and more focused.
There is an interesting article about this by Jeff Poth called Foaming at the mouth
You might want to try some foam on your horns (its cheap) and see if you can hear a difference.
Robert
It looks like he's putting in inside the horn, are my eyes playing tricks on me?
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I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this.
Ninjai, I have a pair of RF3's also and was looking into upgrading them, What mods did you do to the crossover?
I did all new crossover parts from Parts Express. The only original part I kept was the original iron-core inductor in the woofer section of the crossover per DeanG's recommendation.
Message me for more details, I'd be happy to help! -
I have upgraded my crossover networks to have all better parts, but with the same values. What I'm wondering is, can't you just use one air core coil, instead of two? Why not use one 0.55 mH coil, instead of using a 0.25 mH and a 0.30 mH? Would there be any harm in simplifying and using just one bigger coil that is the combined mH of the two smaller ones?
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Yeah, I've done the crossover component upgrade and the dampening mod for the horn as well, and am very happy with them. I still think the complete crossover upgrade is gonna be where its at if it can deliver on removing the higher frequencies from the woofers. A set of RF-7s would be amazing... I'd love to play with a set of those.
I agree, I cannot wait to see the schematics for it!
I am probably going to do these upgrades, as they seem well founded. I am wondering though, I would like to do something similar to the crossovers in my matching RC-3 II center and RS-3 II surrounds. How would I go about doing that? Any chance you're going to measure those, as well? -
Maybe they have Bob Crites or DeanG crossovers in them?
I wish... -
The only thing left would be upgraded wiring inside speaker. I think you did it all. Rick
Did that, too. Put some nice 14 Gauge wire in there.
These speakers now sound like they're worth thousands more than I paid; I have heard RF-7 IIs and B&W 800 series towers. I'll just say this, my upgraded/modded RF-3 II system compares favorably. -
I have the RF-3 II system, and I am curious as to what else I could do to mod my woofers and tweeters to make them sound as good as possible? I have added damping with Dynamat to all drivers, braced the cabinets better, and completely rebuilt my crossovers with much better parts (all upgrades I've done have yielded MUCH better sound). I also put light foam on the speaker internal walls. Moray James gave me some great tips, and said I should also add 1/8" felt over the spider on the drivers, which I do intend to do, as well.
Just curious about any other improvements you all know about that don't include changing out drivers or buying whole new speakers.
So, show or tell what mods you know about! -
does anybody have a complete modified crossover spec sheet for the RF3?
So, this is the official values Klipsch uses. I used the original values to do mine and they sound great, though I am curious to see what he came up with for values based on his REW measurements. My interest is peaked!
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Often a problem: the loudspeakers are worth less than the new parts you want to use to modify them. I usually encourage people to put the money into better loudspeakers. For example: do you think a pair of RF-3s can hang with a pair of RF-7s?
No, they couldn't hang with RF-7s, that is a good point, as the horn and woofers and overall enclosure are better in the RF-7s. But I will say, I have heard stock RF-7s, and while they do sound great, I certainly prefer the sound of my fully modded RF-3 IIs. But that's just me.
Now, I can't even imagine how incredible some upgraded/modded RF-7s would sound! Okay, I was probably being a bit hasty saying "screw buying high end speakers" - many consider RF-7s to be high end (I know, it's a matter of perspective) and they certainly are worth the cost of entry,My end-all be-all of speakers is an RF-7 II HT system with fully upgraded crossover networks, better bracing in place, and the damping mods.
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I think upgrading crossover parts is absolutely worth it. I personally scrapped my original crossover boards and rebuilt them, but with the same value parts, just far higher quality ones from Parts Express. Couldn't possibly be happier. Just bought new air core inductors I will be putting in today. Also added much stronger internal cabinet bracing, as well as damping the horn and woofers. The difference really is unbelievable. They sound like much much more expensive speakers. Screw buying high end speakers, just buy a good old used set of Klipsch speakers and do some mods.
(did same mods to matching center and surrounds) Only paid $100 for the RF-3 II towers. Yet I get many people saying they are, hands down, the best speakers they have ever heard. (having acoustic room treatments and Audyssey Multi EQ helps, as well) -
The baskets on the H3 woofers have had lengths of one inch plumbing pipe which was split length wise glued to each strut and slices of pipe just the right size to fit between the magnet and the top of the basket also glued into place. This keeps the motor assembly from rocking and the basket struts from flexing. I installed two 1/8" layers of SAE rated F-11 acoustical felt over the spider.
I can assure you that your doubts about not being able to hear the spider talk are wrong. The impact that this single mod has upon the quality of the sound especially the bass is amazing and needs to be experienced. I hope that is of interest to those who are wondering if there is a little more to be had from their speakers. Best regards Moray James.
How would you go about applying the 1/8" acoustical felt over the spider?
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Hello
Does anyone have a schematic for the RF82-II network?
Thanks!
cannot recall if it is on the list here but I do remember that it is the same as the RF82 there was no network change only internal wire and some cosmetics I believe.
Actually I believe the RF-82 is crossed at 2000hz, and the RF-82 II is crossed at 1400hz.
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Pretty funny looking. Takes away from the stateliness of the 7's. Premiere towers aren't so bad. The 280-FA's look way better than this solution. I don't like the sound of the actual towers as much but if you're going to do Atmos modules, you really need the 280-FA's rather than this.
What don't you like about the sound of the Premiere towers?
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Will they be releasing an add-on speaker like they did for the Premiere Reference line? It would be really nice to have a timbre matched Atmos add-on option for the RF-7 II system.
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I have always believed that the 3's are the under appreciated reference speaker. They don't get the love they should. I own 2 pair
and love them.Just wait till you hear them with better caps, resistors, and coils in them. I did full crossover upgrades to them, and holy hell, absolutely unbelievable!!
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There was talk about a replacement for a while, but it died down and a month or two ago one of the Klipsch employees on the forum stated that there were no current plans to replace the RF-7ii.
Oh okay, kind of a bummer, but it's okay, they are amazing speakers.
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YES, it should be $15, and people should not go bankrupt from hospital bills. This country is so behind in social justice.
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Awesome! Thanks man, you are super helpful!
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If I am not mistaken, the RF-3II's have a vinyl veneer.
With that said, you could strip the vinyl and apply a real wood veneer and stain/clear coat and make them really something special.
Bill
I think I just might look into a real wood veneer.
I was also wondering, do you know how I might tighten up my driver screw holes? They are a bit rounded out and loose from removing the drivers several times to work on crossover mods. There must be some way of doing this.
Toothpicks and wood glue would be the easy way out.
Filling the old holes with Bondo & pre-drilling new screw holes would be my choice.
I think I'll go with the first option, I'm not sure how you could drill new holes? The holes just wouldn't line up with the mounting holes on the drivers for the RF-4s, they aren't perfect circles.
Any chance of a walkthrough for the toothpick and wood glue option?
Best $500 Integrated amp to drive RP-280's.
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted · Edited by ninjai18
Definitely go for one of the old flagship models from either Denon or Onkyo that came out a few years before the Atmos craze. They are FAR superior to the tiny "feature packed" light weight receivers they are making these days. New flagship models are a joke.