RCB1725

For those adventurous enough to reveneer their own speaker cabinets there are a numerous choices available. Companies like Brookside Veneer Company...or...Wood River...or Oakwood Veneer Company have an abundance of Exotics and Domestics that can be purchased. Many species come with or without a backing. Some come with a peel and stick adhesive and others are just plain leafs. Fancy Burls which were at one time only available in small s/f are now laid up in much larger sheets which make veneering something, much easier and with much less waste. If your browsing through a companies online sample selection keep in mind that the sample your looking at may not be the actual grain pattern or color or pore structure that is shown. Also those samples reflect what a Natural/Clear Coat would look like. Colored Composit or Engineered veneers got their start over in Italy/Germany . Thanks to Designers and the Kitchen Cabinet Industry these have become more available in the States. Check out companies like Vtec Engineered Veneer Company. Reveneering and finishing something can be a gratifying experience but also a nightmare if not done properly.

I think the good Lord had a chair awaiting Clark. Has to be one hell of a Big Band now that hes arrived. Thanks for the memories and the music.

Holy Smokes!! Im rather new on this board and still wandering through the knowledge bases. After seeing this posting CECAA850 I damn near chocked to death on my tea but I lucked out and ended up spitingt it all over my computer screen instead. Thats freeking great...I loved it. Thanks for the chuckle.

One reason why I like it... the shine it gives lasts If you are happy with it and like the end results, case closed.

Even though the factory oil finish has dried...trying to clean it with a solvent like Paint Thinner or Naptha will only reamalgamate the original coating...in other words it just may remove it. If your just wanting to do a minor cleaning and not remove stains a damp rag works. Obviously.. oil and water dont mix so by doing it this way wont harm the oil finish that Klipsch applied. It simply cleans whats sitting on the finish...the dust/finger prints etc.... If you have some oil fading or other types of " stuff " that the water wont remove I would suggest re-oiling the entire side or top. To do this you can apply the oil and carefully wet sand it with 320/400 Silicone Carbide Paper. Apply the oil and block sand with the grain until youve done the entire surface. If you try and do a small area you may or may not end up with a halo. Thats why I suggest doing the entire area . If there is a real small area that needs attention you can try just that area but if its bigger than say a Silver Dollar, do the whole side/top. As far as Murphys goes Google the MSDS. Personally speaking ??? eh.

Im afraid I posted the wrong series of Klipsch speakers I have. The ones I have are the RF3 for the fronts and the center channel is the RC3. I upgraded my surrounds to the RS42II and the sub to the KW100. I dont have the instruction manuals anymore for the RF3 or the RC3 and thats why I was inquiring about the crossovers. I have set them manually to 80Hz as a starting point and they sound fine. Just enough bass for my accoustic Jazz. Miles, Coltrane and Zoot sound great through the horns.

Appreciate the response Garyrc. Ive since changed surrounds and subwoofer. I did use the Audyssey in my initial set up but was hoping to do it manually this time. Those settings you mentioned are a fine starting point. It did mention in the manual that if components were changed from the initial set up it would be necessary to recallibrate everything once again. Thanks for the tips I have to week end to putz around with these settings and fine tune it from there.

welcome. i have a few unanswered questions posted on this & another recent thread. answer away if you wish to. whats best to clean oiled finishes with? whats products do you use for maint & minor restore? what is best to use on a laquer finish? any other suggestions im sure others can use. Well, to be honest oil finishes dont need cleaning as there is not much of a finish to clean. Oil finishes dont build up enough of a coating to need cleaning. They can however benefit from recoating. I read here that some use an Olive oil and this is not a good idea for a few reasons. Olive oil will go rancid...it will attract pests because of the odor they leave behind...it really has no drying agents in it unlike some of the oils that are formulated for wood finishing. Bolied Linseed oil is not the greatest either. Oils that will work on wood are Watco..Old English.. and the "food safe " oil ; Mineral oil. Keep in mind that oil finishes will not create a "build" so it might take a few coats. These types of finishes seep into the pores and if applied correctly, can offer decent protection....If someone would like detailed directions to REALLY rejuvinate an oil finish just ask. The above post is rather basic and will work for most applications . To restore an Oak cabinet that might suffer from a few scratches ( not real deep gouges but minor scratches ) the Old English does a pretty good job. The darker colored Oak Ive seen on some Klipsch case work would benefit from the Dark Old English as it will color the scratch and also offer up some protection to the wood. Again...oils dont build up, so a few coats might be in order. If you have a deep scratch there are wax sticks you can buy at a Home Depot type of store. They come in a few different colors too. In a pinch you could use a Crayola which matches the wood color. A trick old timers used to use ( maybe some still do ) is a Walnut or a Pecan. Rub it briskley into the dent. The oils in the nuts and the meat of the nuts fill and color the void all at once. Obviously if Fido has chewed the corner this wont really work but in a pinch it does a decent job. When working with any oil finish, remember to soak the rags in water as they can combust. Cleaning a Lacquer coating ( not stripping but cleaning ) can be done with either Paint Thinner or Naptha. Neither of those solvents will attack the Lacquer. Dont use Acetone or Lacquer Thinner or any "hot" solvent as it will make a mess of the coating. If you have to clean fingerprints a cotton rag moistened with water and Ivory soap will work just fine. Ive seen a few, Super High Gloss coatings on speaker cabinets and most likely they are a Polyester or CV coating. They can also be cleaned with P/T or Naptha. These need a professionals touch should they become scratched and unless someone is skilled and has the proper materials to proceed with a touch-up, Id stay clear of this type of repair. Hope this information has been of help.

Greetings, I retired this year after 40 years as a wood finisher. Perhaps I can be of some help here. Ask away if you wish to.

Greetings Klipsch owners, I could use some advice from those more knowledgable than myself. My current speakers are the original RF-42 for fronts..the RC-42 for the center..the newer RS 42ii for the surrounds and a single KW-100 subwoofer. My current power source is a Denon AVR-591. I live in an apartment and find this is just right for my setting. The advice I am seeking is in regards to setting the crossover frequency in the Denon. I have set all speakers as "small" and am in the process of trying to figure out what frequency to set the...fronts/center/and surrounds to.The Denon allows me to set each individule speaker. The settings I have to choose from are as follows. 40Hz...60Hz...80Hz...90Hz...100Hz...110Hz...120Hz...150Hz...200Hz...250Hz. Tell you the truth....Im lost and am hoping to get some ideas on where to venture from here. I just upgraded to the Denon from a receiver that didnt have as many options as this one does. The instruction manual just gives numbers without an explaination of what the numbers actually mean. It goes without saying that Im a new-B and will appreciate any advice available to me. Much obliged, Robert