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sbcoffey42

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Posts posted by sbcoffey42

  1. On 12/1/2022 at 11:01 AM, KevinB said:

    I understood you to say your soundbar was completely dead?

     

    Let us know how the firmware update goes. I hope you got the link directly from Klipsch.

    I got the firmware from Klipsch. MCU106 and WIFI209. This doesn't work, when I log into the soundbar from a browser i get a firmware up to date notice and the plug in the thumb drive and hold power doesn't yield any results. I can't get the upgrade on the LED display because it is dead. I can still connect through the app. Which is why I was saying the backend is active and the front end is dead. I really wish I had a functional block diagram and a schematic so I could do some signal tracing but I'm sure that might void a warranty or two.

  2. 23 hours ago, KevinB said:

    Well, that does simplify things...

     

    It doesn't really matter how you got to this point. All you can do now is to work with Klipsch to get a warranty replacement.

     

    Not all of our soundbar issues are firmware related. These devices all too often experience component failures. Klipsch doesn't try to resolve them. Their solution is to provide a warranty replacement for the whole soundbar.

    I got the link so I could manually install the new firmware. Should get that done pretty soon.

  3. I have had my 1200 for almost a year now and I was always impressed with the sound and like everyone else here, I was able to live with the un-plug / plug fix. My wife would occasionally unplug the sound bar because there was some "electrical" noise coming from it. My hearing is not as good as hers and I never heard it. I could go weeks without needing a restart, I could just power up my system and go.

    That being said, it is now a brick. A week before Thanksgiving the unit would not turn on. I submitted a ticket, and the next day the unit worked. A few days later, I am back to the same problem. No power. My tv will sense that it is plugged into an HDMI receiver, I can see network activity on the lights for the ethernet connection. I can even still connect with the app and log into the soundbar from a browser. What I do not see is the blue lights blinking or coming on for the sub or surrounds. my firmware is  4.9. The thing is, it has worked then just stopped. I am making a major assumption that it is firmware issues and I know that when it was new the firmware wasn't 4.9. Does anyone else leave their bar plugged in to ethernet? Has anyone else come across something similar?

     

    Thanks

  4. On 6/24/2022 at 4:10 PM, Dneu2011 said:

    Thanks Henry!  Yes, one Klipsch member purchased the toroidal walnut single amp last month. He liked it so much that he and I got to talking again about other options. I gave him a good deal on the Waynes Preamp plus the two Curly maple amp camps. I swapped out the faceplates to create a matching setup. Below is a picture of one of the monoblocks and the preamp.

    67727082558__9506E6F4-F114-4A11-924A-522069986995.jpg

    As the happy owner of the above mentioned gear let me just add my two cents. I am completely blown away by the sound I now have. I was on the fence about buying the kit, I wanted a second amp so I could keep my system down in my music room in my basement but the wife wants music back upstairs. A remodel forced all equipment down to the basement. I read a lot of good stuff on this site concerning the ACA and this posting came along with the items for sale. I put together a Marantz M7 tube preamp clone which I ran into my Marantz 2252B but found lots of things lacking. I ran the pre into the mains in so the 2252 was just a power amp. It sounded great, so I thought then my first ACA from Dneu arrived. This was a major sound awakening for me, to the point that I realized that the Marantz 2252B needed some love. A restoration is within my skill set but is going to take time, time that I just don't have. This is more of a winter project. That being said, I just can't go back and was made a great deal on the monoblocks and a linestage pre. I have to say that this setup, mono's and the linestage literally blow me away. The 16 watts into my H3's is way more sound than I need in my small space and I appreciate the fact that I don't miss anything at what I consider my normal volume. So, now I have two great systems and have to decide what goes where and I can focus on more speakers.  I will let anyone on the fence know that the build quality of Dneu stuff is top shelf, he even replaced the fronts of the monos with walnut so my system would completely match. So to close I do want to send a great big thanks to Dneu.

  5. On 1/12/2022 at 2:39 PM, grendel23 said:

    If you like the ACA, you would love some of the other Pass DIY amps. I have built an F5 and an M2x. IMHO, the M2x is an end game amp as long as 25 WPC is enough. I am using mine on the mids with BMS 4592ND drivers on K-402 horns and the sound is very good.

    Did you use one of the diyAudio chassis for your M2x build?

  6. On 4/13/2022 at 11:01 PM, Jdwtx85 said:

    Where did you get the h3 kit. I've asked multiple times calling Klipsch.

    Can I also ask what they charged you for the h3 upgrade?

    I started with an email to support @klipsch. Let me look up the thread and see if I can find it. There is an actual part number but verification of ownership of h2’s is required to get the ball rolling

  7. I will certainly do that, unfortunately I am in the middle of a re-model on my kitchen so it will be a couple of more days before I can safely fire the stereo up.

    By safely, I mean the don't you have something better you could be doing right now kinda thing.

  8. On 11/18/2021 at 5:55 PM, CWelsh said:

     

    I've had the Node about a week and I think it is fundamentally going to change the way I listen to music. Everything I listen to sounds at least as good as playing the same thing on my CD player, and I have access to so much more than I could ever purchase. See my comments below regarding the interface.

     

     

    I'm running BlueOS on an iPad and I've never tried using AMHD on Windows 10 so I can't compare. I will say I think the BlueOS interface could be improved and suspect it will be over time. I wouldn't call it awful, but it isn't the most intuitive navigation. Still, if I use the Search function, I can find what I want as long as it is in the catalog. And, I haven't tried building playlists or creating presets.

    For my Windows 10 desktop, I use a Schitt Modi connected to the usb-c port. In windows I select the modi as Playback and then I adjusted the settings to match the Hi Res of AMHD. This works great for my desktop system that is the Klipsch The One and a vali 3 pre amp. The one drawback I have with Bluos app is that I can't add songs to my library, I have to back out and go to the desktop. Also the Bluesound node does an incredible job with the apple airplay. My node is connected to ethernet and I can stream from my ipad and it sounds pretty amazing. I have found that Amazon and Apple music seen to have the same library and a direct connection from the apple device to a dac gives me hi rez or apple lossless if connected to node through airplay.

    • Like 1
  9. I have the M7 preamp kit that I bought from tubes for HIFI. This pre sounds amazing but it seems to lack the bass that I like. I am running this into some Heresy's with a sub and at times it doesn't even seen like the sub is in the mix. The pre has three tung-sol 12au7 tubes and I was thinking about trying out some JJ ECC802s that they have in stock at tube depot. Does anyone have any experience with the JJ ECC802s, I chose this because one of the reviewers stated a bit much bass for their tastes. Whatever tube I get, I want to stay within the 12au7 family because I am making the assumption that the lower gain tube was chosen for a reason. I have not seen anything bad about the tung-sol but the whole point of the pre-amp was to experiment with the color of the sound it generates. Any advice on this would be appreciated. 

  10. 8 hours ago, Islander said:

     

    Real bi-amping bypasses the crossovers and uses an active electronic crossover.  Bi-amping while still using the existing crossovers is only kind of bi-amping.  Full bi-amping has the crossovers totally disconnected. It's a set-and-forget thing once you're done, but you need to get the settings for the active crossover from somewhere.  Doing it by ear won't give you the results you're looking for.  Your Heresy IIIs are fine speakers, but they can only put out what you put into them.  Vintage electronics are not the way to get great sound from your speakers.  Updating to a modern receiver will allow your speakers to come closer to their potential than doing some kind of untested bi-amping.  The new gear is much better.  I’ve had both.  You will hear the difference.  Going to separates, like a preamp and a power amp, would be even better.

     

    Years ago, I temporarily connected a Yamaha MX-D1 power amplifier to my Heresy II surround speakers.  This is a $5,000 500 watt per channel amplifier.  The sound was amazingly good!  I could hear every instrument individually, all the way to the back of the stage, and of course the power was great.  That made total sense.  Then I disconnected the amp and put it to other use, and the H-2s went back to sounding pretty good, which was all they needed to be in the Surround position.  I later replaced them with La Scalas.

     

    The better the signal you can feed your speakers, the better they will sound.  Their output can only be as good as their input, so I'd be looking at upgrading your electronics before doing anything to the speakers, other than experimenting to find the best position and orientation for them.

     

    Good luck and happy listening!

    Thank you for the information, I really appreciate it. As for something modern, well that is where I am at. I have been considering one of the Cambridge Audio amps or some type of integrated amp with some streaming capability. I am alos considering just a power amp and a pre-amp to handle the streaming. Lots of choices out there, just not sure where I am going to start. I do have this itch to build a couple of the power amps from the DIY Audio Store. I have only heard good things about the Amp Camp Amp. So perhaps I can focus on the perfect pre-amp first.

    • Like 1
  11. Has anyone here bi-amped their set of Hiii's. I got this idea from a forum member and started looking into it but it left me with some questions. I have a vintage Solid state (sx-1050) that i would like to use for the low end and a class d amp with a tube pre-amp that I would like to use for the high end. Is it as simple as just plugging the amps into the different post with the shunts removed, or is there more to it? I've been digging and get confused between vertical and horizontal modes and have found more topics on bi-wire that seen to turn into arguments. In the realm of protection of my equipment is there something I should be doing. Should I split my signal through a crossover before it is amplified or is that taken care of with the network in the speaker? When I am in bi-amp mode, is the impedance of the speaker different, say 4 ohms on the woofer instead of 8? If someone knows of a guide that can get me started I would appreciate it.

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