Vahorns

A little more info. on the TT setup... Its a Kenwood KD-500, direct drive unit. Heavy platter nicely manufactured. The tonearm is a very low-mass design, by an English company. The arm is a MayWare Formula IV. The cartridge is a Sonus, designed I think by Peter Pritchard after he left ADC in the mid-'70s. Sonus made several cartridge models, including a Silver, Blue and Red. I need either : 1) a good replacement Sonus stylus; or 2) a suitable replacement cartridge that will track and sound as well as this Sonus. The TT has been in hibernation for a bunch of years, and is re-appearing with the addition of my Cornwalls! I have tried some of search engines for Sonus cartridges, but not much luck... Any help/info. is appreciated...

With my recent Cornwall additions, I have taken my vinyl out of storage, for listening. My TT is a Kenwood KD-500, heavy concrete resin base, with isolation pods. The tonearm is an English low-mass, manufactured in the late '70s under the name "Formula 4". The cartridge is a SONUS RED. This cartridge replaced a SHURE V-15 Type 3, many years ago. I am ready to replace the SONUS' stylus, but I don't know where to look for these. The audio salon I purchased this from, has long ago, gone out of business. Any info./help is appreciated.

Mark--- Please check your email, as I just sent a followup. Thanks, Stew

I own Klipsch and Polk. I recently upgraded to Cornwalls, and love them! On Polks, I own a pair of original Polk Audio, circa 1976, Monitor 10s and a pair of LF12 subwoofers. I purchased the Monitor 10s new in 1976, comparing these to the Dahlquist DQ-10s at that time. The Monitor 10s at that time were well-regarded for their price. The bass output was superior to the DQ-10s. The imaging and the sound overall was very good, for their price. Also, the cabinets and quality control were very good, as Matthew Polk was hand-assemblying these at his very small Baltimore shop. That all changed in about a year after word got out about his products. Mine were among the first Monitor 10s made, and have stood the test of time. Comparing the Klipsch Heritage stuff to my Monitor 10s is no comparison. The Cornwalls are in another class altogether, and sound much better in the soundstaging, imaging, midrange and bass. Cleaner, more definition, uncolored mid-range vocals compared to the Polks. My 2 teenage sons immediately heard the improvement when I hooked up the Cornwalls. And the sensitivity... My Polks will now due their work in the rec.room HT, while the Klipsch will be the 2 -channel reference. But a vail was lifted when the Klipsch were fired...

Thanks Pete--- That unit obviously appears great on paper. I need to audition it, but I also need to find a place to purchase. Any suggestions on where to look for a good price? Bets regards, Vahorns

Mobile--- A short while back, you mentioned that a new alternative from DIY to the Planet, might be available. You mentioned something about that the announcement was forthcoming based upon your work with that outfit. Well, I went to the DIY site, and no mentions of the alternative. The moment of truth is upon me...I need to upgrade CD player but would like the DVD side as well. Need your best advice, as I have just acquired a nice pair of Cornwalls that show the weaknesses of my old, very early and cheap, Marantz CD player. If you wish to email me this info, reach me at: deaverss@frb.gov Best regards...

Last weekend, I purchased a pair of 1985 Cornwalls,from the original owner (all Klipsch factory updates were in place, and the speakers had passed factory spec.tests). These were sold in the Mid-Atlantic, the speakers were in Oak, with all the original materials, including owners manual. These went for $875, which I believe was a fair price. On ebay, these have sold for more. The region you live in does determine the supply/demand price point. If these do not have the updated X-over, make sure that is added soon.

After unsuccessfully attempting to purchase several different pairs of Forte and Chorus loudspeakers, I finally struck paydirt Saturday. I purchased a pair of Cornwalls, circa 1985, with all updates, from the original owner, oak finish. These speakers are a revelation! On all the materials I have feed them, they have exceeded all my expectations. The mid-range reproduction, along with the imaging, is truly incredible. Extremely low distortion, and high sensitivity equal a fatigue free listening experience! Now I need a good center channel speaker for the home theatre setup! Now to find that Academy or Belle to fill the middle!

Just purchased a 1985 pair of Cornwall Is, with all updates, and recently factory spec tested, for $875. These were original owner, Oak, in fine condition. I love these speakers!

A couple of initial questions come to mind. Have these speakers been updated via the X-over? Are those the black cabinets? From the info. provided, my guess on those would be that they could be anywhere from the $700 - 900 range, depending if the buyer is trying to match another black pair. If these were oiled walnut, or another wood finish, the price would be higher. Others will likely have more info. Have you checked E-bay lately for auction prices?

While on this topic, I'd like opinions that compare the overall sound of the Forte line to the Cornwalls. Looking strictly at the Klipsch spec sheets, the Forte goes lower, to 32 Hz, versus the Cornwall's 38 Hz, but has a much smaller cabinet than the Cornwalls. Obviously the 15" passive radiator helps the Fortes. The Cornwalls weigh about 108 lbs. while the Forte are in the 70 lbs. range. Acoustic output for the Fortes is listed at 119db SPL, while the Cornwall is not shown on the spec sheet. I have an opportunity to buy either, which would you choose, and why? My impression is that the Fortes are more suited to reproducing rock music, while the Cornwalls have a different overall sound character. Insights from owners are appreciated.

I have an opportunity to buy either a pair of Forte II's or Chorus II's. These would be my main speakers in a 2-channel setup. The Forte's are about 2/3 the price of the Chorus. Which of these would everyone here prefer, and why? Thanks for any feedback...

Thanks for the heads - up Mike S. Yeah, I wish the best for Darryl and the SE-R. Not gonna beat a HEMI no matter how many LB.s of boost. The NHRA Winternationals are out in Cal. this weekend. BTW Qualifying was the last 2 days, here is info: Top Fuel = 4.5 ET over 320 MPH, engine(MOPAR HEMI) Funny Car= 4.7 ET over 310 MPH, DITTO Pro Stock= 6.8 ET over 200 MPH, HEMI/CHEVY Did I miss something? Where are the Supras/SE-Rs/Civics/imports? You say it takes a V-8 to qualify? Sorry imports... I rest my case... Make mine Z06 or Viper on the street...

Hey Colin--- If you had a choice between a pair of 5 year old, mint condition Chorus IIs, or the 30s, which would you buy? Any reasons why you prefer one to the other? Thanks in advance for in the insights...

SE-Rs are good 4-cylinder platforms, I said that before, and as I stated, I almost bought one in 1992. I owned 2 different Rx-7s rotaries. Totally fun cars, but nothing in the low end. Regularly autocrossed both. Remember I said I drive on the street...if I want to go to the drag strip track, I'll hitch a ride with my friend's 7 second, full bodied 1968 Dodge Dart HEMI. If I want to start with a base package for the street, give me a Corvette Z06, or a Viper ACR. Plenty of kids in my neighborhood have the Civics, the Supras, the 300 Zx TT. In stock form they are total toast to the F-bodies, and a well-tuned 5.0. Even after adding superchargers or turbos the Civics still can't make it. The Supras is definitely the best of the bunch. But too much boost...then BOOM! 300ZX = the same. I appreciate the kids becoming car buffs, we need all we can get. I love the fact they like to mod the cars to their liking. But unfortunately, they did not have the advantage of growing up with engines that were developed by Detroit, when all that mattered was who made the most torque and horsepower, without any regard for fuel economy restrictions, or emissions restrictions, or the like. This was the power race by the Big 3 USA manufacturers through 1970. I have owned plenty of high-quality European and Japanese high-end cars, as I previously stated. They have many fine qualities. I raced two Porsches, a 356B and a 911. Loved both. But todays Z06...try that one out if you ever get the chance! Viper same thing... BTW the NHRA Winternationals out West is this weekend. Qualifying the past 2 days: 1) Top Fuel - 4.6 ET - engine = Chrysler HEMI;trap speed over 300 MPH 2) Funny Car - 4.7 ET - " "; trap speed over 310 MPH 3) Pro Stock - 6.8 ET - Chrysler HEMI/Chevy/all V-8s; I rest my case. I wish you nothing but the best with the SE-R. I'll take my chances on the street with American Iron.

Don't mean to draw this thread out, but I had to put in my .02c. The same thing exists with this rice - burner import cars with the trash can exhausts. On another forum on this site, someone has tried to say that a Nissan SE-R or a Honda( take your pick - Civic -Integra (yeah I know they call them Acura, but we know they are Hondas) will beat a Chrysler Hemi, add any power adder you wish... This is ignoring basic laws of physics...and the NHRA TOP FUEL ELIMINATOR records! These guys with the imports need to have a day with a Viper ACR or a Corvette Z06. Or better yet, they can get a ride with my friend's 1968 Dodge Dart HEMI that has done 7 second ET passes at NHRA sanctioned events, over 200 MPH in the 1/4 mile. On the street, TORQUE is where the rubber meets the road, as the law of physics will support. Horsepower is measured at the top speed of the engine, i.e. highest RPM. We rarely use of reach the top RPM of the engine during street driving. On the race track, yes, we need horsepower, but on the street, torque moves mass away from a stop light or a stop sign Thats why diesels power all our heavy equipment, TORQUE 4 cylinders, no matter how many power add-ons like turbos, or superchargers, or nitrous, are STILL 4 cylinder engines. And the last time I checked there weren't any 4 cylinder's in the NHRA TOP FUEL ELIMINATOR CLASSES. It is almost like comparing a glidder to an F-18. Who has the thrust? Same with the 4 versus 8 cylinder, who has the torque? Sorry for the rant...

QUIK--- The cars you mention are few and far between, basically stock Integras and SE-R's that can beat well-built 5.0 liter Mustangs (NOT 4.6 overhead cam cars) or F-bodies with the LS1s. The LS1 cars in my area (I'm in the Mid-Atlantic), depending on drivers ability, run in the low to mid 13s, BONE stock. Best drivers run with these cars can run upper 12s, BONE STOCK. NOTHING ADDED, GET IT? Lets even this out one last time. Did you check the NHRA records, and do the research I suggested? Did you check out the Chrysler HEMI's record? Did you notice that the HEMI is basic form, holds all the NHRA records in Top FUEL Eliminator class (the fastest ET class in the 1/4 mile). Powerful 4 cylinder cars have their places. Its called a road circuit. On the drag strip, I'll take a V-8 anytime, and the Top Fuel people agree... Have you checked NHRA Pro Stock? V-8 cars again... When you get that SE-R or any Japanese import consistently in the 4 second range in the quarter mile, let me know. I have a couple of buddies in my area running Top Fuel rails that will want to run you at an NHRA sanctioned event. On the street, I 'll stay with the VIPER BONE Stock, in its upcoming 2003 form. 525 horsepower, 525 torque at low RPM. Find me one stock Japanese whatever that can hang with a Viper...Come up with one yet? Find

This is for Quik--- Good luck with the Se-R this year. Hope you improve on the Sentra record. It is a lot of time, $$$, effort running a competitive car, been there and done that. Just for the record...do some homework on the history of motorsports, and since the Sentra is used for the drags, look into the '60s - '70s era of NHRA. I think you will enjoy learning about what was going on in Detroit, with the horsepower race, without need to be concerned about fuel economy, emissions, etc. It was a golden era, where the massive big-block engines from Detroit ruled, and still do (read=Hemi). I've driven SE_R's from the early '90s (when they were new) and considered buying one. Just no low-end torque and thats what I like on the street. Supras are nice cars, especially the interiors. Quality piece 4 sure. But I like low-end torque... Get someone with either a 2001 or 2002 Z06 to give you a ride, at the track of your choice. Same with a Viper You better be ready to have your eyeballs pinned to the back of your skull! T-O-R_Q-U-E! The Z06 also happens to be a blast to autocross. The Ford Cobra in 1996 switched to a multi-cam, overhead cam arrangement (READ=NO LOW END TORQUE of note). The Cobra uses a 4-valve per cylinder layout with 4 cams (READ = VERY COMPLICATED, STill no low-end torque). These cars get walked on by "best bang for the buck" $20,000 GM f-bodies, namely Camaro Z/28s and Trans Ams, in STOCK (no modifications) form. 4-valve per cylinder/4 cam motors DO NOT MAKE great street machines, because they DO NOT MAKE excellent LOW-END, LOW-RPM torque. Thats why the Cobra is slow off the line, unless you rev the be-jesus out of the thing! And the race is basically over by the 60 foot mark in the quarter mile. Do some Research the importance of an engine's torque curve with respect to street driveability, acceleration without turbo lag/spooling, at speeds in the 0-30-75 MPH range. You will see why diesels are used in large cement trucks, 18 -wheelers, buses, etc. ITS ALL ABOUT TORQUE. Get a primer on mechanical engineering, thermodynamics, and SAE papers for specifics about the relationships of power, torque and horsepower. It is all about the flatest torque curve, developing maximum torque ratings at the lowest possible RPM, and maintaining that high torque rating to redline. Ford's answer comes in 2003 with the new Cobra with 390 horsepower and 390 lb/ft. of torque. The way they got there was with a Eaton Supercharger added to the car! In normally aspirated form (normally aspirated form = NO TURBO(s), NO SUPERCHARGER(s), NO NITROUS (NOX), the Dodge Viper for 2003 will make in factory Bone-stock form, in excess of 500 horsepower, more than 525 lb/ft. of TORQUE. FACTORY STOCK, NO TURBO, NO NOTHING! Try a well-tuned, old USA classic 2-valve big-block like a Chevy 454, any Chrysler Hemi or big -wedge. Thats where the fun is...

Here's some history for you... My first HI-Fi = A KLH component system, consisting of KLH Model 7s, KLH tuner, Garrard TT, Shure cartridge, KLH integrated amp. My first real component system = (on a real college student's budget in 1972) * Dynaco PAT-4 preamp * ESS M500 amp (waited over a year for Dynaco ST-400; gave up and bought the ESS unit) * Sony top-of-the-line tuner * Dual TT top-of-the-line changer * Shure V-15 Type 2 cartridge and for speakers...special factory order, special Electronics Show prototypes... Cerwin Vega Separates, consisting of two large satellite speakers in walnut (real wood-very heavy) with DHORM (horns with dome tweeters) tweeters, and 10 inch midrange drivers, and a side loaded - side firing horn for low-midrange) each weighing about 100 lbs, coupled with a separate subwoofer cube (very large-very heavy - again, all walnut) featuring two 15" drivers, each with 30-40 lb magnets, firing and facing downward, for all musical info. below 125 HTZ. This system was often demonstrated at consumer electronics shows, and was not generally available through Cerwin Vega dealers (very limited production and very expensive). The subwoofer supposedly achieved great output with very low distortion, all the way down to 18-20 hertz region. I verified this with some pipe organ music from my collection. The efficiency of these speakers was very high, requiring very few watts to reach high decibel levels. Definitely over 98 DB.. These speakers were among a handful of speakers at that time, achieving great SPLs > 125 DB with low distortion, and small amps! I had a monster amp (250 RMS per channel)so today I feel very fortunate to still have my hearing. Cerwin Vega's slogan at the time was... "Loud is Beautiful, if its Clean" The cost of these speakers in 1972 was about $1450, through Myer-Emco in Washington DC. 3 sets were sold over a 3 year period. I soild mine in 1976, because they were next to impossible to move around (too heavy!). I went with an original, personally assembled by the namesake himself in his Baltimore factory, Polk Audio Monitor 10s in walnut. I still have these today, coupled with two Polk Audio LF-12s (these are large subwoofers housed in original Monitor 12 cabinets). But I want a pair of Klipsch's for my HT setup!

To Big Mike--- I indeed have made the rounds at Summit Point, with the Potomac Region members of the Porsche Club of America. Ran both of my Porsches there many times. I got tired of taking a 2nd mortgage to pay for the Porsche name on the parts that broke! That 92 you have sounds great. I autocrossed for many years, with my RX-7, both Porsches, even a fully prepared class 1972 Ford Pinto with the 2 liter German overhead cam motor. I also raced a 1988+1997 Civic, and a couple of muscle cars, including a 1970 Plymouth Duster 340 (don't laugh), a 1987 Camaro 5.7 liter Iroc-Z, and a bunch of others including a 1987 5.0 liter Mustang "stripper" no-options, police sedan. The Mustang was great fun for small $$$. I know of one 1969 PLymouth Valiant with a well-built 360, a 4 speed overdrive, a well-sorted suspension / brake package that has finished in the top 3-4 of the One Lap of America, and eclipses top end speeds of 168+ MPH! The car is real, and built with good old, cheap American, MOPAR factory parts throughout! Real basic, simple, and incredibly balanced! The guys with the M5s (modded) and M3s snicker, until they try to hang with this car! Drag strip = 11.5 ETs at about 119; Top end = 170+; Brakes are factory 12+" rotors and Chrysler Imperial discs in the rear. I have a good friend who recently (right after Christmas) took delivery of a 2002 Z06, black/black. I drove it; it is incredible, in the turns and in the straights. The engine revs to redline incredibly fast. His 1st pass at the strip yielded 12.19/118 MPH with POOR traction, and a POOR driver! NO MODS! Car had less than 1,000 miles total. I wish I could afford a new Vette but I may have to hold off, rather to build a new Klipsch home theater setup! I mean no disrespect to the young car enthusiasts, and their passion for imports. I think it is great that the car scene is back, after all the crap thrown at us in the '70s and '80s, i.e. emissions, engine management compromises, heavy bumpers, etc. But the law of physics are undeniable. Torque moves mass, and thats what the street driving is all about. Try moving an 18 wheeler with a small displacement overhead cam wonder...Try moving a cement truck or a bus with a low torque 4 cylinder...Its all about torque thats where the body gets crushed to the car's seat! There is incredible mis-information out there in the younger car buff community about the importance of torque to street driveability. They need to try it, and I am certain they will LIKE it! I understand most of the import buffs buy these cars because they fit the car insurance profile/up-front cost profile, that these guys/gals can afford. But it would be nice if they tried the big V-8/V-10 torque before condemning these, and thinking that hi-tech will outdo real muscle. The Chrysler Hemi in its current form, has been with us since its re-introduction in 1964 at the 1964 Daytona 500. This motor has the perfect cylinder combustion chamber geometry, and produces the most power of all mass production engines. Even mildly tuned versions of these engines produce upwards of 900+ horsepower totally reliably, in normally aspirated form ( NO TURBO, NO SUPERCHARGER, NO NOX). All throttle with NO bottle! Remember these engines DID NOT have to consider things like the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) standards, emissions or cost. It was designed without restrictions of today, and produced for 1 purpose, to make the most power. I think today's technology is incredible, i.e. the GM LS1 engine family is tremendous, with its ability to make gobs of power while meeting emissions and CAFE requirements. In fact, the LS1 engineers said the HEMI was part of the reference std. that they used, when they started with the clean sheet of paper. I love high-performance cars, especially German cars. But for bang-for-the-buck, it is impossible to beat good old American horsepower / torque. I'll take a new generation Vette or Viper anyday against what the world has to offer. With very few mods, these cars hang with the exotics...

This is for Quiksr20... I have raced extensively. Autocross since 1972, drag raced since 1969, circuit raced as part of a team in the '70s and early '80s. I have owned several Porsches, including a 1961 Porsche 356B modified, and a Porshce 911, vintage 1972, with many mods. I 've also owned an RX-7, several Civics, Toyotas, Benz, as well as Subaru. I was a car dealer for several years. In terms of handling sophistication, I'll take a Vette Z06 or a Viper ACR, against anything from Europe or Japan. Same in braking... In terms of street driving prowess, these cars are without challengers. Even the new Porsche Carreras don't do any better, even with the turbo (which adds incredible cost--break one and pray you can afford to fix it---and incredible complexity). NSXs that I have seen at the track or autocrossing are relying on a 6 banger with soem help, but are no match for either of the above mentioned on a road course. Been there, experienced it with my own eyes. Torque is what moves mass (cars) on the street. Thats how you get away from a standing stop QUICKLY. And in terms of reliability, take your pick, turbo or supercharger introduces heat, complexity and great stress to the internal components of any engine. Go ask the better engine builders, and ask what they rebuild most: Answer = busted turbo/supercharged engines. If you are talking horsepower, a fully race prepared Chrysler HEMI has seen in excess of 7,000 horsepower, in a legal NHRA Top Fuel dragster. All of the NHRA TOP FUEL records are held by HEMI powered rails. In land speed records on a closed circuit (race track), the Chrysler HEMI in a 1970 Plymouth Roadrunner Superbird held that record for many years at Talladega Alabama. The problem with these little Civics is they have NO POWER/NO PUNCH off the line. Thats where the fun is, that is where races are won and lost (the 1st 60 feet from the start). BTW instead of screwing everyone by racing on the streets (and endangering people besides yourself), be courageous and bring the car to the track, whichever form of racing you enjoy. But remember, Torque is where it's at, for street action. Get a ride in a high perf. car like a Vette when you can, and you will immediately feel the difference.

I stand by my assessment. Simple law of physics at work here. For street driving, the most pleasure = LOW END/LOW RPM TORQUE= simple law of physics (ability to move mass quickly from a standing stop). 600 horsepower Supras or any highly boosted Turbo application, regardless of manufacturer = BOOM !!! !!! (that was the sound of your engine self-destructing when trying to increase the turbo boost to the 600 horsepower level, and run that engine repeatedly, at the track or on the street at WOT and high boost, say BYE-BYE motor). These engines (with the exception of the Supra which was factory rated at 320 HP) are way down on power in naturally aspirated form, that they have to add-on a turbo or NOS , or both, to make any power. Civic engines are what 170 horsepower? And how much torque and at what RPM do those Civics develop the top torque rating? Take a ride in a big-block '60s muscle car at WOT, then you will feel torque. Take the turbo or the NOS off the Civic engine, and what are you left with? Decent engines that are not designed to run against big-block engines like the legendary HEMI. It kills me when Supra guys get all cocky, thinking they can beat anything. Talk is cheap, Come down and run a couple of Mopars at the track with HEMIs, if you are so tough. Supras are nice street cars. Dodge Darts with HEMIs will eat them alive. The Darts are full-bodied cars, not tube chassis rail dragsters, and have run 8 second passes in NHRA mildly modified forms. As far as Civics running 8 second passes, those are not Civics, those are just tube-chassis cars (nothing at all in common with a street Civic) with a fake fiberglass body that resembles a Civic with a pumped up specialty built engine with loads of boost. These "rails" are the same chassis' run by NHRA Top Fuel dragsters, but with a little 4 cylinder turbo motor. Put a HEMI in the same chassis and what do you have...Take a look at the FASTEST NHRA CARS PERIOD>..TOP FUEL ELIMINATOR, all POWERED by CHRYSLER HEMIS SINCE the 1950s. Running 4 second quarter miles ...No CIVIC(rail dragster chassis or not) with a 4 cylinder is any competition against a HEMI. GO to the NHRA website for the proof.

About the Honda Civics and the like, supposedly fast cars when modded... When modded the reliability of these designs especially the gearboxes, goes way down. The basic engine low end components(crankshaft, pistons, connecting rods, main and connecting rod bearings, the block) do not hold up to more than 250 horsepower with any reliability. The basic problem with these cars is that they have very little low end (low RPM) torque. Torque is the most important factor in moving a car from a stop. To move from a stop, these cars must spin their small 4-valve, twin cam motors high into the RPM range. They do breath well in the upper RPM ranges, but most all of our driving on the street is all about 0-70 MPH. That's where American Muscle shines. The older '60s-early '70s big block cars made gobs of low RPM torque, where these cars could accelerate from a stop with such force and speed that no 4 cylinder could ever match. Check out a Dodge Viper for a modern car that has gobs of torque. In terms of overall performance, nothing that has ever come from Japan is any match for a Chrysler Hemi engined car. Take a look at the NHRA Top Fuel class. The only engine used in the fastest NHRA cars, period. The fastest factory car to ever to be built was a 1968 Dodge Dart HEMI, turned 10.0- 10.3 ETS right out of the factory. These cars still hold all the NHRA records for their class, 35 years later! The American big-block cars made incredible low end torque; look at the Honda S2000 roadster --- no low end torque to speak of, less that 150 lb.ft at a high RPM level, not much fun when used in 0-70 MPH street usage. And you have to spin that Honda engine with the buzzy, fatiguing high RPM droning, to get any usable power. Thats why people buy Corvettes and Vipers---low RPM torque, plain and simple. These rice cars are fine for the un-initiated, un-informed. Bring them down to the track, and find out what real cars are like, whether your form of racing is NHRA/IHRA drag racing, autocrossing or road circuit racing. Oh, on the Supras, yes they are nice cars, but at what price? Turbo charged vehicles like the Supra and the Buick GNX or T-type Turbo introduce much higher cylinder pressures and higher internal temperatures which will definitely lower the durability and reliability of these "boosted" cars. I'll take a Corvette Z06 or a used Viper anyday, and if I want to really get serious, I can add a turbo or supercharger kit that makes these vehicles into race cars on the street...

The price of these Fortes is now at $545. The speakers have not been oiled since new, but have very fine, minor scratches. The owner feels that oiling would remove the scratches, but has decided not to, at this time. The passive radiators (woofers) have been replaced in both speakers, and the speakers overall function and performance have been certified by an authorized K.dealer. I will know by Friday whether I get the speakers.

The Forte's are Series I, and were purchased new in 1989. They will be sold with the original cartons, manuals, and were recently checked by an authorized dealer, guaranteed to function and sound correct. Is $525 a fair price, if the wood is in excellent condition, only very minor surface scratches? I am in Burke, and traffic is not too bad, with all the improvements in the Mixing Bowl area. I have a brother retired in Naples, who I just visited over the holidays. Great FL area!