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Maximus89

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Posts posted by Maximus89

  1. Finally got the right fuse cap from Jameco Electronics.   It just has a little piece of metal that you need to push out for the fuse to fit all th way and then it goes into the fuse holder in the LS just right.

     

    Next up.  1 bad k-77 tweeter.  Are there different versions of the k-77 out there?  How do i know which exact one to replace my current one and i assume i just have to order off ebay based on trust that it has the original diaphragm and not some after knock off?

  2. Welp. My friends Jaguar got flooded. We were high thigh deep water for 2 hours around 1am just looking for help until finally someone helped and pulled the car out but we had to leave it there. 

     

    safe but at a friends house, and no way to get home with all exits off freeways flooded

    • Sad 2
  3. 8 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

    I'm not sure.  I heard them in Hope where they had the F3's, K-Horns and RF-7II's in the same listening room and switched between the 3 sets.  The F3's were my favorites.  The voicing on them is perfection.  Roy hit it out of the park with these IMO.


    Wow.  I'd like to see how many people share your opinion.

  4. Forte III's are beautiful, but I can't imagine going from Khorns to anything else without an empty feeling of a huge downgrade, unless you got an all La Scala surround with better subs or Jubilees.  Though his living room does allow for a 3rd for a matching LCR of any kind of speaker be it FIII or LCR RF-7 II's (or III's?)

    Congrats to the buyer.  What an amazing deal!

    • Like 1
  5. 7 minutes ago, Davecv41 said:

    Could you post a picture of the fuse cap, preferably on top of a steel ruler? Someone may a spare or have one in a parts bin on the workbench.

    Only have measuring tape. The fuse cap has little small hooks that lock it into place when you push and twist into the holder 

    IMG_1877.JPG

  6. Unbelievable.   Package just arrived.  Once again....WRONG fuse caps.   I think I've spent almost $40 on fuses and fuse holders hoping the cap would work.  I'm left with no choice but to find someone who can solder the new fuse holders into place.

     

    Though...there is one option:  There's an Al 3 xover on ebay for a great price, but the parts look really old and rusted.  Is that an issue?  2 days left on the bid, so I've got time to think about it.  Maybe for now I can use those as my main speakers xover and then when I order a new one from Crites, I can move the older original AL-3 to the surround LSi. Hmm.

  7. I've wondered myself about getting the best quality.  I'm aware my computer setting can only be set to 24/192hz.  I have a large collection of FLAC and WAV but also DSD and DSF SACD and other hi res files and then i'm connected HDMI - GTX 970 GPU  to Marantz SR7007.   But, do i need a DAC? Or is the DAC in the Marantz good enough?  Will i need a DAC to get better than 24 bit quality?  If so, are there different DACs?  The ones i come across always make it seem like they are made primarily for head phones. 

    So would i need PC HDMI to Marantz for video, USB from motherboard connected to asynchronous usb DAC which is then connected via rca to my Marantz?

  8. On 8/11/2017 at 2:50 AM, WMcD said:

    If this is still an issue:

     

    I would just restore the fuse situation to what the factory used rather than bypassing the fuse.

     

    It is my understanding you need replacement caps for the fuse holders.  I doubt they're available alone but fuse holders are very inexpensive and you can just buy the assembly and use the cap.  Littelfuse makes fuses (fuse cartridges) and fuse holders.  I can't make out the lettering shown in the photo but I'm guessing the one you need might be the very common 

     

    https://www.parts-express.com/littelfuse-3ag-panel-fuseholder--071-510

     

    3AG refers to the physical size of the fuse cartridge for which the holder accepts.  The electrical rating of the fuse cartridge is 1 amp or 2 amp, etc. and can be "slow blow" or regular.  Check the schematic or label on the speaker terminal cup.

     

    Additionally:  Inspect the fuse holder you have as best you can for manufacturer and model number.  Bussmann also makes them.  Again, you just want to buy the holder to get the cap.  Mouser.com is another source off electrical parts including fuse holders and fuses.

     

    WMcD


    I've looked at every store and i just came back from Altex electronics store and thought for sure i finally had it.  Looks just like the one in the link.  Nope.   Not the right one.  They're all screw in, i need a twist and lock.   You push the cap with the fuse in and twist to lock in place, so the cap needs these little hooks.  None of the fuse holders i've seen at Home Depot, Radio Shack, Walmart, automotive stores and Altex have it. They're all screw in.  I can solder the new fuse holders in, but i don't want to mess with that.

    There's no way of knowing what i'm ordering online because they don't show the photo of the cap, they just show the fuse holder with cap already in place.

    EDIT:  Just clicked that link again and read this comment in the review:  "The metal tabs that lock the cap in place bend very easily and then the fuse doesn't stay in."  Other than a bad review, it sounds like this is finally it!  Metal tabs you twist to lock into place is exactly the type of cap i need!

    Thanks!

  9. 43 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

    @Maximus89are you checking out Ebay?  There seems to be a good supply of parts for your LS.  I saw a K-43 for $99+shipping.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Klipsch-K-43-Speaker-15-034-nice-/162593974570?

     

    There are some K-77s and EV-35's (same thing) on there.  There is also an AL-3 XO for $99 pr shipped if you want to go that way.

     

    Before I bought from Ebay, I would put out a WTB here in the Garage Sale section.  I trust the members here.

     

     

    I've seen that one, but mine looks like brand new compared to that, and i'm not going to commit to anything until i take it to a shop and see what the cost of repair is.  As far as the tweeter, i think i may go the K-77F Magnet Assembly with Diaphragm from Crites route and just use my own horn, but im also contemplating one of the crappy aftermarket diaphragms from simplyspeakers for now(since they're only going to be used as surrounds anyway) until i get ct120 upgrades for my main LSi.

    Here's a question.   Game of Thrones is tonight and my cousin and pals are coming over, i dont have the room to set it up right, but im going to use the 3 working LS as the LCR with my Chorus II as surrounds.  
    With no woofer, but a functional mid horn and i have an after market tweeter laying around that i took out of a KLF-10, could i technically use this LS as a 6th channel surround with the subwoofer crossover as high as it goes(250hz)?  

  10. 12 hours ago, John Albright said:

     

    Or Recone.  There is an Eminence 15' that  some here like, with good numbers for Klipsch Bass Horns.  Might be cheaper. 

    Is a recone expensive?  I'd rather try and get this one fixed for a match instead of having to get 1 extra that is different, or be forced to get a pair and go through the hassle of trying to sell the k-43 and shipping which i hate doing.

     

     

    3 hours ago, Davecv41 said:

    Did you test the 9V battery first to see if it is good?

    no, but i did test the bad k-43 in the functional k-43's dog house and vice versa.  All the same. 


    I came across this post from 2005 by @djk   

    "The main cause of failure in a K43 is the tinsel leads.

    I would remove the woofer and have your local re-cone guy look at it before buying a replacement. If that's all it is he can fix it for less than $20. If need be he can also re-cone it for about $60~$70."

    Here's mine, could this issue lead all the way inside where I can't see?

     

    image.jpg

  11. 7 hours ago, wvu80 said:

    Have you removed the non-working K-43?  I can tell you how to test it with a 9-volt battery.

     

    Also, don't worry about the AL XO.  If it sounds good to you that's all that matters.  Play your speakers, enjoy them, and then if there is a specific problem in the sound you want to work on there are some people here who can guide you.

    Removed it and it looks fine and it's not stiff either. Let me see about testing it.

    IMG_1799.JPG

  12. So i've been taking a break and i've got the 2nd coat on the last LSi, before i then focus my attention on what that issue is with the non working k-43 and choosing what to do about the bad diaphragm in the tweeter(youthman just sold 1 k-77- i missed it!). Anyway, been jamming low volumes mostly and now turning it up a bit and i'm all smiles. At first, i really noticed how they don't go anywhere as low as the Chorus II, but it just sounds "right" with the LS and this is apparently with the worst crossover Klipsch ever made (AL) and k-43's which apparently require much more power to move than the k-33.  I can only imagine what these speakers sound like in a larger area and with all the upgrades i'm day dreaming about. 

    Still playing around with placement.  Directly facing me was a bit too strong.   Have the tops facing forward right now. Will try deep in to the corner like a Khorn next.  Then i'll try aiming slightly behind my position as well.

  13. 35 minutes ago, WMcD said:

    Looking at the photo closely I come to the conclusion there is a high likelihood you have Bussmann HKP.

     

    I got the pdf attached from the Mouser site.  You can buy them there for about $4.05 apiece, plus shipping.  Buy some fuses while you're at it to make shipping costs worthwhile. 

     

    I sympathize that you want to drive someplace to buy the units.  But I doubt you'll find them and you'll be wasting time and money.

     

    WMcD

     

     

    Bussmann HKP.pdf

    Hmm looks the same from the one on sale at radioshack except the one you posted has black letters and arrows while the radioshack one has it in white just like the originals
    https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-screw-cap-panel-mount-fuse-holder

  14. 6 hours ago, WMcD said:

    If this is still an issue:

     

    I would just restore the fuse situation to what the factory used rather than bypassing the fuse.

     

    It is my understanding you need replacement caps for the fuse holders.  I doubt they're available alone but fuse holders are very inexpensive and you can just buy the assembly and use the cap.  Littelfuse makes fuses (fuse cartridges) and fuse holders.  I can't make out the lettering shown in the photo but I'm guessing the one you need might be the very common 

     

    https://www.parts-express.com/littelfuse-3ag-panel-fuseholder--071-510

     

    3AG refers to the physical size of the fuse cartridge for which the holder accepts.  The electrical rating of the fuse cartridge is 1 amp or 2 amp, etc. and can be "slow blow" or regular.  Check the schematic or label on the speaker terminal cup.

     

    Additionally:  Inspect the fuse holder you have as best you can for manufacturer and model number.  Bussmann also makes them.  Again, you just want to buy the holder to get the cap.  Mouser.com is another source off electrical parts including fuse holders and fuses.

     

    WMcD

    Yeah , I've seen a few online that I can just use the cap from but I wanted to find it in a store that I can drive to instead of waiting for shipping. RadioShack has some online but the nearest stores are all closed permanently and the few further away could possibly be all out so I need to call them so they can check the part # and if they have 4 total. 

     

    2 hours ago, Marvel said:

    btw, the paint job looks terrific! I wish I had some split LS. They would be much easier to move around.

     

    Bruce

    Appreciate it! I can only imagine how difficult it is without the split top. Though, it isn't the most in home looking speaker. I love a beautiful wood veneer. 

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