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Everything posted by Maximus89

  1. I've got a similar, slightly different question. I use an RSW-15 which has no hi level inputs. I use an analog multi-channel preamp with a sub out for my multi-channel HDMI DAC. Sub kicks on for movies and tv just fine and i can use it if i use the HDMI DAC for music, but it's just not as musical as the preamps built in option board DSD DAC which is only USB/Toslink/Coaxil inputs. I DO NOT want to lose the .1 LFE of my HDMI Dac for movies, but i want to add sub for 2ch analog simultaneously. Can i run a y adapter from the subwoofer and connect one to the LFE sub out of the Pre and the other to a y adapter to the back of the preamp output which will split one to a power amp input and the other will have the subwoofer input. As i understand it, i would get a 3db boost if i use L+R input from the sub, but it is not necessary and i wouldn't need to run 3 long cables(L/R+LFE). Will i cause an issue doing this? Thanks
  2. This is what i thought of my early 2k's era Mac amp, it sounds exactly like you described and i've since moved to a 1991 built Accuphase P-360 and it's worlds different. I almost pulled the trigger on an MC402 previously. Would that be the way you would describe that amp too? I see most have it as a highly regarded amp in Mac's history. I was also near pulling the trigger on an MC7200 or MC7300, i don't remember but it was a direct coupled amp/no mac autoformer which is supposed to sound different from the laid back rolled off muddy sound. I already owned an MC7106(direct coupled) that can bridge to 320wpc and it's definitely better than the autoformer mac amp im selling, but i passed on the 7300 because i felt it was just my 7106 on roids. Accuphase build quality blew me away but McIntosh is so easy to service here if there is any issues. Are there amps you can recommend in the 2-3k range from the last 10-11 years you think sound night and day from their past eras? What makes them different? Quad balanced? Thanks
  3. The P-102(1987) was the model i was looking at, same design as my P360(1991) that i decided to go with because i wanted more power to get my CF-4 drivers moving. Pictures don't do it justice. That wood paneling, and the champagne colors with the light hitting on it scream top quality and tank build on the inside. Built to last. There was an older model that you could switch Class A on and off. As you hit 90s model Class A amps, they are all listed on their website under product museum, Class A's are A-*** models. I think the mono A-100 was the first monster, 100watt mono. A-20(1995), A20V(2000) pop up affordable in the 2k range. A-30 and A-35 as well. The 50 or 60 or bigger monos still fetch a pretty penny. Accuphase mark up in the States and Europe is ridiculous i must say. Really depends on your price range and how comfortable you feel spending on an older amp that are truly built to last, but hard to service if you do have an issue.
  4. For sure. I sold my Khorns + Dean's AA crossover to try the CF-4. I love my CF-4 v.1 and they sound killer with my new to me Accuphase set up but damn I miss the Khorns and I cant stop thinking about them with a Class A Accuphase amp. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  5. Get an affordable late 80s to 90s era Class A amp from Accuphase directly from Japan. You can rewire them at the bottom for US 120v by color coded wires. Very easy Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the job Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  7. Sorry, I got confused from the screws going inside to the back, since I figured the existing glue block was too small and the added block wouldn't sit flush with it? Idk I guess I gotta open it up and take a look when I get a chance. Thanks for giving me a better look though. Its always daunting opening up these massive speakers. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  8. Oh, understood. Makes sense. Im not skilled like that. So you put a block and glued and clamped to the small glue area that already exists and then you screwed it in from the side-into the existing glue area for extra support? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  9. I just realized you added that glue block for the panel to sit into, is that really necessary? How does the panel sit in the cabinet originally?
  10. I have CF-3 version 1's in black that I am likely to sell here in Houston, TX($$$ undecided). I planned on keeping them with my Cf4s and kv4 for a 5.1 but hard times and things didn't go as I planned for my living situation. The CF-3s sound just as great as the Cf4s with a slightly smaller scale, and id be happy with just them but the Cf4 v. 1 is so hard to find and I love the cherry, ill stick with the Cf4s unless I got an offer too good to pass on. They do need to be reglued in the rear and the woofer dust caps have glue residue from previous owner replacing them. Anyway, the CF3 have been in storage in a garage for a year. One top had a spill or something where the black finish came off from previous owner- plus other bumps and bruises you see with speakers this age, so they're up for a refinish. Also no spiked feet and plastic foot covers. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  11. Perfect. Exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot man! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  12. Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  13. Passlab gets my vote. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  14. I had the Denafrips Ares II matched with my cf4 first with mcintosh and then with accupahse. I ended up selling to try an option board add on dac for my accuphase and I regretted it immediately. Same as most dacs I pair with klipsch. Just too harsh and bright. R2R dacs have this warm and analog sound that was addictive. I can only imagine the Pontus is a big jump from the Ares. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  15. Those look great. Did you remove the vinyl first? My vinyl isn't peeling but the black is faded. I wonder if I can do the same over the vinyl? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  16. Ive been away from my Cf-4 and Cf-3(both v.1) for almost 4 months now. Thinking when I get back to start a project and veneer them both plus the KV4 and redo the grill cloths. Cf3s are black and my cf4s are cherry. Would it be blasphemous to redo the black pair into cherry or the cherry into black? Also as far as the kv4...do I remove the vinyl first? How would I go about doing that? Im currently considering just refinishing the black CF3 and veneer the cherry cf4 in black ash. My RSW15 is black too so figure it would be easiest and any future sub will likely be black also Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  17. I wonder if Chief thinks its boneheaded and non Klipsch if you mod with other Klipsch parts: ie using a pro Klipsch horn to replace the stock horn. I never saw him have a problem with recommending non Klipsch full range compression drivers for the Jubilee either-although i never read directly from him-but others saying Roy suggested it- I was considering k510 + compression driver+ active xover mod for the cf4. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  18. Gotcha. What preamp and amp were they on? I can see that factoring in as well. I think the CF4s are the pickiest of Klipsch speakers to match with gear. They also absolutely need the horn to be damped. Its very thin. Worst part of the speaker. Raising them or tilting the horn to ears is ideal for placement as well. I have a slight toe in with the speakers raised at an angle toward my ear height. I use Accuphase and previously McIntosh. I can see a pimped out KLF30 being great though. Wish there were more options for a Chorus II to be modded as well. Id like to have CF4 + a 3 way traditional Klipsch, although I'm desperately missing Klipschorns right now. I have CF4 and CF3 version 1 in both and id probably pull the trigger on selling the CF4 to get Khorns again and keep the CF3s. Of course things don't ever go as planned and I may have to downsize to bookshelf or Heresys altogether some time soon. I originally sold the Khorns to downsize to more manageable speaker which was my Chorus II I already had, then came the CF3 and It was better than the Chorus II. Then came the CF4. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  19. Which CF4? Revision 1,2 or 3? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  20. Day 212 of 1995. Version 3 off the top of my head Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  21. KV4 is the matching timbre center but im personally looking around for bigger and better centers. The timbre match doesn't do much for me unless its 3 front speakers all the same- thats where its most effective and amazing experience. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  22. Yeah i'm sure it's just in my head. I overthink things. Speakers are built with an tilt all the time. What we also know, is the Legendary series of Klipsch speakers of the era that followed had a notorious issue with factory glue and baffles being loose. I still believe the likely cause was a previous owner possibly using them as full range for movies and really loud bass heavy music=loose dust caps he had to reglue and loose rubber surround he had to reglue and loose baffles he likely overlooked. I'll add bracing to the cabinets when i get a chance and replace the cheap foam with some wads of poly fil.
  23. Well the right rear baffle is clearly bulging out where the rattle came from and that was there from the get go. This left speaker just happened, so it's either new or i just couldn't hear it before. Putting them flat at this point wont change anything since the damage is done, be it from tilting or age and being run hard. The evidence - glue residue all over all the dust caps and one reglued rubber surround + baffle issues tells me someone went pretty hard on these speakers. Luckily, the compression drivers are fine and other than aesthetics, the 12's seem fine.
  24. I had mentioned previously that my right CF-4 had a loose rear baffle. I put a clamp on it as i believe Shiva suggested and i just left the clamp. Haven't had the chance to reglue and brace yet. Well, now i heard a strange sound from my left CF4 and i walked around the room thinking it was something rattling against the wall. Unfortunately, i caught it when i put my head behind the speaker and heard it was the top middle of the rear baffle. When i press my palm against the baffle, the rattle stops. Put a clamp on it and it's fine. But, that's 2 rear baffle issues and it got me wondering if it has anything to do with me having the speakers tilted up? I have them on the floor still with no feet, but put cork pads on the front to tilt the speakers up. Does the unevenness of the bass damage the cabinet? I know it could very well just be the baffle just needs bracing and reglue, but don't want to damage post repairs if tilting up is doing harm.
  25. And you can also use an HDMI dac with 8ch analog out. Essense Evolve II 4K. $299 iirc. Cheaper option. Its 1 out to TV and 1 in, but you can add a cheap 4k hdr hdmi switcher if you have more devices. The analogs out to the mx151 and there you have it. Uncompressed audio from all your 4k hdr devices. Really wish I got this deal. I paid 1500 more than his asking price just recently. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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