Maximus89

Thanks for the tip. I realllly should get on it once the clamps went on to the speakers I stopped caring how they look as long as the low end is nice and tight. I think I'm waiting for the desire and funds to open up for bracing interior, recap, higher quality internal wire, high quality banana connectors and then new veneer and paint the front baffle. Lots of work Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I'm a believer that cables make a difference. I was a skeptic using all basic stock power cords and amazon basics interconnects and car speaker wire of a thicker gauge. I met a guy who wanted to hear my DAC i had for sale and i got to know him and the topic came up and he didn't push anything on me and even recommended budget cables to me that sounded good but most of his system if high end and he has a lot of very expensive stuff just sitting in his back room. So he let me borrow some Duelund DIY power cables, some high end Shunyata power cables and a few other pricey ones i don't remember. A $4k furutech power conditioner. Some $500+ interconnects. The Shunyata power cables(i tried several) all made a big jump from the standard cables. The interconnects all made an improvement. The Duelund which used silver and some other silver interconnects were all my least favorite because in my system everything i tried with silver is annoyingly sibilant for some reason and it's put me off to silver. The $4k power conditioner compared to my old home theater panamax power conditioner with several non current limiting outlets? Didn't hear a difference. Whether my system was not resolving enough to hear the difference in power conditioners, i don't know. At the time i had 3 different DACs he let me use with my McIntosh set up, an Audio Note 0.1x, an Audio Note 2.something kit?(both AN Dacs were upgraded/modded), and a ModWright Tube Modded Oppo-105. I've also had my current Accuphase set up with a Denafrips Ares II when i've used some of his interconnects, from AcroLink and another sibilant expensive silver cable and a cheaper blue jeans cable. All made a difference over a standard digital coax-with the blue jeans being good enough of a jump for me. I myself was using a printer cable for my USB DAC. I purchased a Supra USB cable based on reviews and it's relatively cheap. It was an obvious jump in clarity. Where i land though, is in the camp of diminishing returns. The jump from basic cables to a good low budget cable is big, the jump from the good low budget cable to $500 cables? Extremely subtle and just not worth it for me. Funny enough i had just spent the past few days looking at different internal speaker wire myself before i saw this topic. Duelund and Audio Note and Jupiter wire. No idea if internal speaker wire makes a difference, but i'm sure it does over the cheap wire a lot of speakers use.

Nope. I know a few. Seems their hearing is fine outside of the upper regions. Craig is a drummer and he has 3 front Jubilee and 2 khorn LF with k402 as surrounds. His room is whisper quiet and you can hear every detail and he had no problem hearing the things I was hearing as we described to each other the sound of each track even though I believe he's mentioned troubling hearing the high frequencies. I'm sure its a case by case situation since there are old guys still rocking out. Jagger must have ear drums of steel at nearly 80 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

You'll be alright man as long as it's comfortable. I doubt any of this is audio related. Band members that play concerts etc lose some hearing in the top end ans temporary ringing is likely but tinnitus and infections are highly likely due to some difficult to find underlying problem as said before. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That would be amazing. Thanks for the info [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Yeah this one seems to be good for many although it gave one negative reviewer an infection somehow. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001AGMWE/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I appreciate the tips. Its hard not to pick away at the dry flakes. Ill look into the mineral or olive oil remedy. Ive also came across a product online. Some drops for ear psoriasis the comments all swear by so ill try that too! I'll post the link here if anyone else has the same problem. Hopefully it all works out! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Thanks man. I will for sure. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Ive been away from my system for 6 months and my ears started ringing in that time. Its just a never ending ringing in both ears and random higher pitched pops and sounds. Mostly bothers me in the quiet. YouTube 8 hour sounds help me drown it out but don't actually help me sleep. I did have a lot of infections several of which were just awful experiences in both ears several years ago. They came and went for 2 years but its been a few years since the last. I now have psoriasis in my ears and I wonder if thats what started my tinnitus. Obviously I have to go to the ent and im not blaming my Cf4's and even had many extremely loud klipschorn sessions in a small room before the CF4s. I just think I'm maybe nearing the end of this journey. This hobby and the music and entertainment has meant the world to me over these past few years but I just cant enjoy anything with this damned ringing and popping and on/off wax blocked ears. Ive got a lot of money into this that I could use elsewhere. I dont even really listen to anything but scores and ambient backgrounds now. I find all I care about anymore is ambient detail retrieval and tight/deep low end at lower volumes. A sweet and smooth bell or something sounds magical to my ears now. Like little magical dust sparkling and floating around my ears. My Accuphase gear with the Cf4 is giving me that + good low end at relatively low volume but is that enough to justify how much I've spent? Idk. I gotta see an ent but everything I read is they can't do anything for me anyway for psoriasis or tinnitus. Continued hearing loss seems inevitable and im just so bummed out right now. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That makes sense. this is what im looking at except the DAC option board is newer with usb which i use with my PC as a transport. D Output is Subwoofer. Both Balanced and Unbalanced outputs. I have 5.1 analog outs to the Line 1 Inputs of a multichannel analog HDMI DAC. Subwoofer gets the LFE signal using the Line 1. While it's not bad for music and i can use the sub with it, the DSD DAC board with USB is of higher quality for 2ch music, but the sub won't work for it even with DSP sub add ons in my foobar2000 settings.

Thanks, i took a quick look at some and while they look the part of something that will work perfectly, i'm just not sure how they'd connect to each device but ill figure it out!

So one line can go to the Sub out on the preamp for movie LFE track and the other to the Left or Right speaker input on the preamp

I've got a similar, slightly different question. I use an RSW-15 which has no hi level inputs. I use an analog multi-channel preamp with a sub out for my multi-channel HDMI DAC. Sub kicks on for movies and tv just fine and i can use it if i use the HDMI DAC for music, but it's just not as musical as the preamps built in option board DSD DAC which is only USB/Toslink/Coaxil inputs. I DO NOT want to lose the .1 LFE of my HDMI Dac for movies, but i want to add sub for 2ch analog simultaneously. Can i run a y adapter from the subwoofer and connect one to the LFE sub out of the Pre and the other to a y adapter to the back of the preamp output which will split one to a power amp input and the other will have the subwoofer input. As i understand it, i would get a 3db boost if i use L+R input from the sub, but it is not necessary and i wouldn't need to run 3 long cables(L/R+LFE). Will i cause an issue doing this? Thanks

This is what i thought of my early 2k's era Mac amp, it sounds exactly like you described and i've since moved to a 1991 built Accuphase P-360 and it's worlds different. I almost pulled the trigger on an MC402 previously. Would that be the way you would describe that amp too? I see most have it as a highly regarded amp in Mac's history. I was also near pulling the trigger on an MC7200 or MC7300, i don't remember but it was a direct coupled amp/no mac autoformer which is supposed to sound different from the laid back rolled off muddy sound. I already owned an MC7106(direct coupled) that can bridge to 320wpc and it's definitely better than the autoformer mac amp im selling, but i passed on the 7300 because i felt it was just my 7106 on roids. Accuphase build quality blew me away but McIntosh is so easy to service here if there is any issues. Are there amps you can recommend in the 2-3k range from the last 10-11 years you think sound night and day from their past eras? What makes them different? Quad balanced? Thanks

The P-102(1987) was the model i was looking at, same design as my P360(1991) that i decided to go with because i wanted more power to get my CF-4 drivers moving. Pictures don't do it justice. That wood paneling, and the champagne colors with the light hitting on it scream top quality and tank build on the inside. Built to last. There was an older model that you could switch Class A on and off. As you hit 90s model Class A amps, they are all listed on their website under product museum, Class A's are A-*** models. I think the mono A-100 was the first monster, 100watt mono. A-20(1995), A20V(2000) pop up affordable in the 2k range. A-30 and A-35 as well. The 50 or 60 or bigger monos still fetch a pretty penny. Accuphase mark up in the States and Europe is ridiculous i must say. Really depends on your price range and how comfortable you feel spending on an older amp that are truly built to last, but hard to service if you do have an issue.

For sure. I sold my Khorns + Dean's AA crossover to try the CF-4. I love my CF-4 v.1 and they sound killer with my new to me Accuphase set up but damn I miss the Khorns and I cant stop thinking about them with a Class A Accuphase amp. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Get an affordable late 80s to 90s era Class A amp from Accuphase directly from Japan. You can rewire them at the bottom for US 120v by color coded wires. Very easy Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the job Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Sorry, I got confused from the screws going inside to the back, since I figured the existing glue block was too small and the added block wouldn't sit flush with it? Idk I guess I gotta open it up and take a look when I get a chance. Thanks for giving me a better look though. Its always daunting opening up these massive speakers. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Oh, understood. Makes sense. Im not skilled like that. So you put a block and glued and clamped to the small glue area that already exists and then you screwed it in from the side-into the existing glue area for extra support? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I just realized you added that glue block for the panel to sit into, is that really necessary? How does the panel sit in the cabinet originally?

I have CF-3 version 1's in black that I am likely to sell here in Houston, TX($$$ undecided). I planned on keeping them with my Cf4s and kv4 for a 5.1 but hard times and things didn't go as I planned for my living situation. The CF-3s sound just as great as the Cf4s with a slightly smaller scale, and id be happy with just them but the Cf4 v. 1 is so hard to find and I love the cherry, ill stick with the Cf4s unless I got an offer too good to pass on. They do need to be reglued in the rear and the woofer dust caps have glue residue from previous owner replacing them. Anyway, the CF3 have been in storage in a garage for a year. One top had a spill or something where the black finish came off from previous owner- plus other bumps and bruises you see with speakers this age, so they're up for a refinish. Also no spiked feet and plastic foot covers. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Perfect. Exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot man! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Passlab gets my vote. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk