michaelstano

Marvel, Amen to "really a pain." The architech designed this house for himself. He didn't want to be able to see down the sides of his equipment, so the cabinet has a 16" opening. As a result, one can't just slide equipment in, it has to be tilted (note: multiple disk CD/DVD players with disks in them don't like this) or turned sideways . If the bottom piece of equipment needs work, all on top of it has to be removed layer by layer. Even holding the cords up out of the way is a pain. (Wish I could take a decent picture of this, but, despite a good camera and flash, I can't get any details of black gear to show.) Had this architech had a brain, he would have done as you suggested and put an access panel behind, which was possible given what is behind the cabinet. Although I have ideas for remaking the cabinet (enlarge the door, install a side or rear access panel), doing so will be no minor undertaking, and it exceeds my ability/patience. To further complicate matters, the house has vaulted ceilings and solid floors, which has made running wire for around-the-house speakers (tried wireless--not satisfactory) and HT speakers next to impossible. I have used lots of wire mold. Past the problems with gear access, my biggest problem is the HT wiring that runs from the gear closet across 3 feet of quarry tile before it drops down 2 feet to the living room and begins to connect up. A friend wants to drill through the vertical tile wall and through the stem wall behind it, wants to drill through the slab floor inside the gear closet, and hook the two holes up via 2" pipe so my wires can run "underground." That scares the bejunior out of me. Moral: IF YOU ARE BUILDING, ALLOW FOR FUTURE TECHNOLOGY, AND BUILD IN FLEXIBILITY!

I bought a used Parasound HCA 1000A from a pawn shop. They said it worked--it doesn't. However, I only paid $100 for it and it is worth fixing. The problem may not be significant--when I opened the case, I found 5 fuses, most of which were blown. Off to Radio Shack for replacements. Problem: the numbers on the blown fuses don't perfectly match the numbers on the RS fuses. The clerk was nice, but barely more knowledgeable than I. I don't want to make things worse, so (and I absolve each of you of any liability), what are the chances the following fuses are approriate? Amp T5l 250V (4 of these, grouped in the same basic location) RS 5 amp 120 volt (this "match" seems the most suspicious--"120 volt"?) Amp 1A 250V (1 of these, behind and apart from the above) RS 1 amp 250 volts Amp T6,3AL 250V (1, on the outside case where the power cord goes) RS 3 amp 250 volt Obviously, I know nothing about this and need help. Fuses may not fix the problem (what caused the fuses to blow in the first place?), but it is a starting point. Thanks in advance for your guidance.

Sorry I am so stupid, but I'm not sure what you mean by "in-wall" racks. That you might mean "fixed shelves" caused me to write. I have a "rack" in the wall (actually in a closet in the wall) that has no back access. This is REALLY a pain when it comes to adding or repairing a piece of equipment--everything has to be taken out and reinserted layer-by-layer. I urge you to learn from my bad design (actually, it was this way when we bought the house). Try Middle Atlantic Products for racks and accessories. My plan was to expand the opening of my closet and get a rack on casters so that everything could be rolled out for work. If the industrial look bothers you, you could put removeable trim pieces (a picture frame of sorts) all the way around.

Asking for help on a receiver will complicate your life with a confusing number of choices. Can't believe no one has mentioned the Outlaw 1050 yet--heaps of awards and praise, great support, great user board, from $325 (used), to $425 (new B stock), to $499 (new). I am pleased with my 1050.

I agree with DrPyro. I bought a Monster Power HTS 2500MkII, which lists, I think, for $299, for $170 including shipping. I found the dealer (CellPhones4Cheap.com) via auctions on eBay and made him an off-line offer. Honestly, I don't know if the dealer from whom I bought is authorized, but the price was such, and my expectation of problems was such, that I took the cheap price. I have read all the claims about decreased noise, and Monster has a test kit to demonstrate noise reduction, but I don't know from my own experience that these things work as advertised (which is partly why I bought a low-priced model)--this may generate a "my-cables-are-better-than-your-cables debate. However, surge protection is a must, and the box is "way cool" in the rack, so I'm happy with my purchase. One interesting difference between the Monster and the Panamax is weight--the PM, if I recall correctly, weighs at least twice the MP--?

An auction for a KV-3 just closed on eBay. Always seems to be one or more on eBay. Price has been all over the chart--most recent examples were about $185, although some have gone higher (I paid $210 with shipping). Also, check audiogon.com--you can put a "Wanted" there.

Pat, Although I don't question the quality of the newer Klipsch speakers, I think much can be said for some of the older, but high quality speakers. If you liked the KG4s, start looking on eBay and Audiogon for 1, 2, or 3 pair. Regardless of what you get to start, timbre matching is key. Under "Products" on the Klipsch site, one can determine what matches what in terms of timbre. As for 5.1, 6.1, 7.1, I would settle for nothing less than 6.1. Going from 5.1 to 6.1 really added something for us. 7.1 merely adds a 2nd back surround, and, although I haven't heard such a setup, I can't imagine it would add that much to 6.1. 8.1 is on the horizon--is the addition of channels driven by the speaker makers? I'm not familiar with your NAD amp (how many channels, etc.), but even if it is only stereo, you'll find a use for it driving a sub or powering just part of your speaker aray. I'd like a complete set of new RFs, but am really happy with my old gear, none of which I bought new (although I am plotting for a pair of SVS subs). Take the above with a grain of salt, as there are many here that far eclipse what I know. My main point is that older gear is not to be put down, especially if it is older Klipsch gear. Mike

Not to obsess, but the following is from Ronald Epstein's review of "One Hour Photo" on Home Theatre Forum: "The film's score wraps itself around the entire listening area in a very spookish manner, with abnormally deep LFE bass that pounds away to the undertones of the soundtrack, adding real depth to the screen action."

Was the previous post meant to be facetious? If not, either we didn't watch the same movie, or there is some incredible setup or equipment difference. I can't imagine describing what I heard as simply "background."

Just watched "One hour photo," with Robin Williams. Creepy movie, incredible lows. Has to be a workout for any sub.

Thanks, Trey, for the clear and straighforward answer. Understanding how the SW works, and knowing it is not malfunctioning, is really helpful. I'll do as you suggest and keep plotting for a HT sub!

Just today, Outlaw announced the 7100 amp--7 channels, 100 wpc, at $899. That's about $1800 for a 950 and a 7100. Keep this to yourself.

Yesterday, my new Rat Shak SPL meter came, and I set about adjusting my speakers. Except for the sub, the meter readings weren't too far off what my ear told me was right. The sub was very low--at first, not even a reading on the meter. To get the sub level up where the Outlaw 1050 manual and the SVS web page suggest, I had to turn the level up one click above 1/2, and I had to max the setting on the receiver (+10db). At about this point, I starting hearing popping noises from the sub. I had heard this same noise during DVD playback (and in fact wrote to the forum about the noise), but concluded (incorrectely, I guess) that the noise was distortion from the DVD, some kind of electrical gremlin, etc. Are the pops caused by asking the SW-10 to do more that it is capable of doing? Is there something wrong with the sub that causes the pops at levels it should be able to handle? Is this a reason I can give my wife for why I MUST HAVE at least one SVS? TIA for any info.

The Outlaw ICBM (at about $250) is designed precisely to address bass management on DVDA. If you have a good DVDA collection, the money might be worth it. Plus, it's another piece of equipment to add to the rack!

See www.hometheatersound.com for a review of the 950/770.

I am using the Outlaw 1050 with the speakers below and am very pleased. You might post your question on the Outlaw forum, as I am sure someone is using your exact anticipated setup.

I have used the Yamaha HTR 5250 (with 100 wpc) and the Outlaw 1050 (with 65 wpc) with the same speaker set-up. To my ear, the Outlaw is superior. Plus, there is that great Outlaw forum!

Have you tried Audiogon or AudioReview or AudioWeb? All are great sites, and will let you post WTB.

Based on what I have learned here about timbre matching, another RC3II would be the choice for a rear surround. However, due to its size, mounting it on the ceiling or wall might be a problem. So, the RS3II might be a better option. At least some Klipsch speakers are predrilled for Omnimounts, and I recently bought a ceiling mount for a KV-2. You might look at the backs of your existing speakers (or in the instruction booklet) and see if either has been predrilled. If you go for an Omnimount, I found the best prices at Electronicaccessory.com.

Try audiogon.com, audio review classifieds, and eBay.

I paid about $210 some time back. Some on eBay have gone cheaper (especially oak finish, it seems). In addition to eBay, check Audiogon.com, where you may post a WTB.

Reading this forum is dangerous, as I didn't know until last night that I NEEDED something more than a standard surge protector for my gear. Now, the question is which one. With a budget of around $200, the Panamax 5100 and the Monster Power HTS2500 are in the hunt. Specs look about equal except for weight--the Panamax weights 18 lbs., the MP weights 8 lbs.(!). The MP HTS3500 is a definite step up (it adds an analog meter), but costs about $55 more. Opinions?

Rather than starting over, stick with what you have already invested in. I am using KG 3.2s front and back (plus the other speakers below) for HT and I believe the sound is great. Look for the KG 3 on the Klipsch site and find out what matches. Then, start scouring eBay, Audiogon, etc. for used speakers(ideally, 2 more KG 3s for the rear + matching center + SW 8 or 10 or 12 sub).

I have an SW-10 which will rattle the windows of a 20x20 room, open on 2 sides, with 35 foot ceilings. Several SW-10s have sold recently on eBay for around $250. As good as the SW-10 may be, I have learned an SVS should be better on movies, because movies have more low-lows than music, and the SW-10 can't handle the really low frequencies as well. Check the specs for both to get exact numbers.

I have a 2 year old Sony DVD, 5-disk--can't remember all the letters, but the model is "660." I urge you to buy an extended warranty. My DVD went out at 1 year, and Sony (as well as other service shops) wanted $150+ to work on it, which was about half of what I paid, and only about $90 below replacement cost. To their credit, Sony eventually replaced the laser, and all I paid was shipping to Sony. That deal, however, took 6 weeks and lots of talking! I am happy with the Sony DVD and my other Sony equipment, which now makes up a second HT in the bedroom. However, I think an extended warranty on almost anything with no more than a 1 year warranty makes sense. Seems to me that BestBuy has one of the better long-term plans.