michaelstano

I am using a KV 2 for a surround center. It must be positioned on the ceiling, above and barely behind where we sit (our space is not HT friendly). Using an in-the-wall/ceiling speaker isn't possible. I'd appreciate "adult supervision" in mounting the speaker. Should I: Build a shelf for the speaker and attach the shelf to the ceiling? Drill into the speaker cabinet and use small steel cables to suspend the speaker from toggle bolts in the ceiling? Use "L" brackets instead of cable for a more rigid mounting? Buy a commercial mounting bracket? (Those I have seen aren't meant for a long center channel.) ? ? TIA for any assistance.

Posted here by mistake. Moved to HT. Sorry.

Thanks to those who responded. Found a KV 2 for a good price on Audiogon.

Yes, I have one KV 3. I know (thanks to others of you who have educated me) I don't need a center for a rear surround, but space makes another center a better choice than a standard speaker (I have to hang the center surround from the ceiling, away from the back wall). And yes, there was a KV 2 on eBay last night on which I was out bid. Then there was a KV 3 on eBay a week ago on which I was out bid. Then there was the guy from Audio Web who had one to sell that disappeared. Then . . . . Needless to say, I am tired of the hunt!

Hope I am not breaking any rules by posting a WTB. I have been searching without success eBay, Audio Review, Audio Web, Audiogon, and Saturday Audio for either speaker. TIA for any help.

I have a new (to me) Outlaw 1050 that is 6.1 capable. My center is a KV 3, and I've been unsucessful finding another (anyone have a black satin to sell?). Would the KV 3 overpower a KV 2 used as a center surround? The specs seem similar but for the size of the woofers. TIA for any information.

I have moved up to an Outlaw 1050 and, since it is 6.1 capable, I need to add a rear center channel speaker. I have been looking for another black KV3, but haven't found one. Would a KV1 or KV2, both of which seem more available, be overpowered by my other speakers? Thanks in advance for any info.

Selling only one speaker is a trick this guy obviously learned from uBid--"must bid on 2 for a pair." As for reporting the seller to eBay, I may be wrong, but I believe one can do that only if one is involved in a closed transaction with the seller. EBay (and PayPay) has been of zero help to me in trying to resolve a similar dispute (I got stung on a piece of computer equipment). There are some great deals via on-line auctions, but "caveat emptor" should be written on every item.

I currently have a Yamaha 5250 for my main system which uses the Klipsch speakers in the signature below. I want a second HT for the bedroom, and I have acquired 4 new inexpensive AR speakers plus an AR center and an AR sub. Having read good things in this forum about Outlaw, I bought an Outlaw 1050 at a good price on eBay. Now the question: Should I leave my Yamaha (with greater power) hooked to the Klipsch speakers and use the Outlaw with the ARs, or should I do the reverse? The one unique feature of the Outlaw is 6.1, which I can't support until I get a second KV-3. I can't easily experiment with each receiver in each place due to the difficulty I have getting at my equipment to connect it (don't ask--I curse this house every time I have to mess with my gear). Thanks in advance for the helpful advice I know will pour forth!

I have purchased multiple pairs of speakers and a digital camera from uBid. My 1st order was slow to ship, explained by a change-over in the warehouse system. Otherwise, everything has come quickly, undamaged, and as described. Some of the speakers were AR indoor/outdoor--same model as in Crutchfield, for $50/pair instead of $200. Shipping is outrageous, but, if one is careful, the item plus shipping can still be really inexpensive. My only problem with uBid came when I bought from a "preferred seller" (or whatever they call it)--this is the part of uBid that is like eBay. The seller tried to jack the price for shipping when he didn't get what he wanted for the item. Since, I have quit looking at anything that is not in the uBid warehouse.

Unexpectedly excellent movie. Rented it because we have watched everything else, and ended up really liking it. Requires "an open mind." ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

In Europe, the Elvis re-mix went #1, which put him ahead of the Beatles for most #1 songs in history--this 20+ years after his death. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

I appreciate the ideas you have given me on the cause of the "popping" noise. I feel stupid in that, until after my post, I hadn't thought of simply going back to the same problem spot to see if I got the noise again. Also, for no good reason (other that all you guys laud the product), I checked out the SVS subwoofer page and found the following: "If your amp/receiver isnt rated in its manual for 4ohm loads you do need to exercise some preliminary restraint. Do some testing of your own to make sure your amp does not get hot or express any other signs of instability (distortion, popping, etc.) at high levels." I don't have an SVS sub, and I don't run at what I would call high levels (usually 1/3 or less volume on DVD), but my Yamaha HTR 5250 is set at 4 ohms because I am running 6 sets of speakers on the "B" output (controlled by Paradigm impedance-boosting switches). Could running my HT Klipsch speakers at 4 ohns on "A" cause the poppping noise? Again, TIA. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

Although I have been looking hard for DVDA, I haven't found much I am willing to pay for (I'm used to my BMG CD club cheap-o pricing!). DVD Planet has a good selection and pricing, but (and I say this without actually counting) most look to be classical. I have Vivaldi "Four Seasons" and Al Green "Greatest Hits," neither of which I like--just not much extra there on DVDA. However, David Koz "The Dance" is absolutely incredible--the sound just circles the room, and it is a good demo DVDA even if you don't like smooth jazz. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

Not sure which part of forum should get this question. On some DVDs, I hear a rather loud "popping" noise. The noise is not on all DVDs, and seems to occur only once or twice in one part of the DVD. I WANT to believe this is a disk problem--is it? Since we rent alot of DVDs, I clean every DVD before playing it. Thanks in advance for your help. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

Sorry for the confusion. You can't safely run more than 2 pairs of speakers off a normal amp/receiver (i.e., 1 pair on A, 1 pair on . To put additional pairs on A or B will reduce the impedance and harm the amp. Niles, Paradigm, etc. make devices that let you run multiple pairs of speakers on A or B without damaging the amp. through some sort of impedance booster. I really don't know the technicalities of this, but I know one shouldn't add speakers without a special hook up. The "special hook up" can be a box from Niles which puts 6 speaker pair connections together with either a simple speaker on/speaker off switch, or with a volume control for each speaker. The box goes in the rack with the other AV gear. Alternately, one can buy from Niles or Paradigm (Paradigm copied the Niles design and is cheaper) a single switch that is the size and shape of a wall light switch. That switch can be placed in the wall near the speaker so volume can be controlled in the room where the speaker is rather than running back and forth to where the amp./other gear is. Wires run from each switch to the amp. where they are joined onto a pig tail (or with terminal blocks) and wired into the B speaker output. In addition to my surround system (which use the A output for mains), I have 6 pairs of speakers with individual Paradigm controls all wired into the B output on the amp. The Paradigm units have an internal switch which allows you to add many, many pairs of speakers without lowering the impedance. My point was that the single units are cheaper and otherwise advantageous. Hope this helps. Check the Niles or Paradigm site for more info. and downloadable instructions. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

Niles Audio also makes selectors with impedance protection. An alternative is to buy (as I did) individual speaker volume controls from Niles, Paradigm, et al. Not sure what the pros would say, but I see 3 advantages with individual controls: cost (6 individual controls at about $40 per = $240 vs. one pre-made box with 6 controls = about $400); number of speakers (almost unlimited pairs with individual controls vs. 6 in pre-made box); accessability (individual controls in the room/space where the speaker is vs. one panel of controls located with the rest of your gear). The key (I think) is to buy a box or individual controls that provide impedance protection--cheap Radio Shack or other simple volume controls don't do this. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

I received Forum help on a similar question some time back. I wound up with a KV-3 for a center ($190) and bought a second pair of 3.2s ($250) for rears. As for what will match, find your 3.2s on the Klipsch product pages and follow their recommendations. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear, KV-3 center, SW-10. Mitsubishi DD 8020, Mitsubishi HS-U70, Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV, Yamaha HTR-5250.

I have 1 KV-3 in the living room. I am thinking about buying a second KV-3 to use when I convert to 6.1 or 7.1. I feel I need to make this purchase ASAP for fear that if I wait, I won't be able to find one. I need a pair of speakers for background music (i.e., not serious or critical listening)in the bedroom. Speakers I'd consider (older kg bookshelf, new KSB 1.1s) seem rare and/or expensive. Until I find the right pair of speakers, could I use a single KV-3 wired for mono? TIA for any help you provide. ------------------ Michael Stano KG 3.2s front & rear KV-3 center SW-10 Sony DVP-C660 Mitsubishi DD 8020 Mitsubishi HS-U70 Mitsubishi 46" 16:9 TV Yamaha HTR-5250

Interesting, but I have probably learned more about digital cameras and photography on this audio site than anywhere else! Wish I could be more specific (sure others can be), but I recently read (in Newsweek?) about a new technology for digital cameras that is said to revolutionize the process--a chip that gets away from the 3-layer/color process (I am really out of my depth). Anyway, it is supposed to be absolutely incredible, and is to be out within the year (already out in professional models). If one could wait for a camera, one with the new chip might be the deal (but, as with computers, there is always something new on the horizon).

I can't be much help on a 995, but I did have the 885 on my list while shopping a few weeks ago. My budget was "less than $500" for a 3 MP min. camera. I wound up with a Fuji FinePix 4900--really a great camera with lots of features, including 4.3 MP, 6x optical zoom, an SLR-like view finder, lots of manual features, etc. The best part, and the reason I bought it rather than the Nikon 885, the Olympus 3020, or Canon S-10: less than $450 on uBid. They still have auctions for this camera, and I urge you to consider it.

I had similar"NO DISK" problems with my 14-mo. old Sony 660 DVD. I didn't have any persistent lock up problems. I talked with the merchant, a Sony-authorized independent repair place, and with Sony. All said it might need cleaning. So, took it apart, cleaned the lens--still "NO DISK." Bought a lens cleaning disk at Radio Shack and tried that--still "NO DISK." After multiple calls to Sony, their out-of-warranty repair cost dropped from $160 + 2 way shipping to $80 + 2 way shipping to $50 + 1 way shipping. The player was gone about 6 weeks, but was returned working (for now). In the meantime, bought a Mistsubishi DD-8020 with progressive scan and DVD audio. Bottom line: be prepared to spend $150 for repair when Crutchfield has new comparable Sonys for $250.

A KV-3 appeared on ebay 2/22/02.

The new Mitsubishi 8020 DVD with DVD audio out is here. I know that I need to use 5.1 audio wiring from the DVD to the receiver to get the full benefit of DVD audio. Will that wiring suffice for the audio portion of DVD movies? I know that for DVD audio, by using the 5.1 connections, I will loose my signal processor (not sure if that will be tolerable). If I use the 5.1 wiring for movies, will I also loose Dolby Digital and DTS? Should I wire the 5.1 for DVD audio, but also wire optical digital for movies so my processor will still work? My Owner's Guide is no help here, and the folks from whom I special-ordered this DVD didn't even know what "progressive scan" is. TIA--you guys have been great. Mike

I have been looking for new rear speakers to match my front KG 3.2s. There is a pair of KG 2.5s on e-bay. My rear speakers sit inside "boxes" built into the wall about 7 feet off the floor (not my design) and the box is only about 1/2 inch deeper than the KG 2.5s. Would the box be a problem with the rear-mounted port of the KG 2.5s? TIA. Mike