Ljk
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Posts posted by Ljk
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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:
Google auto tuba.
Ok!
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On 7/10/2012 at 3:54 PM, CECAA850 said:
It's thin enough that you could stack 2 or 3 in there.
I am doing a system in an 96 318i bmw convertible I just got a good deal on. Ads hcca 4 inch componets replacing stock door and rear speakers. 2 8 inch shallow mounts under the dash. Have a stock square 8 inch cut thur ( from trunk to cab.)that I stuck a bazooka tube in. (Goodwill find for 12 bucks) How would this sub work with this system, looking for good sq. I like the idea of only needing 100 watts or less to power, thanks.
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So are we going to get a review, room, equipment and such. Nice looking speakers!
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6 minutes ago, DizRotus said:
It dries to a very durable finish. I spoke with the people at Duratex regarding covering Bondo. They said it can go directly over Bondo without primer/sealer.
Ok thanks, I think I will order some tomorrow. Should be easier then using filler and then epoxy spray paint, one step solution.
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4 minutes ago, DizRotus said:
Duratex hides a multitude of sins.
Been thinking about duratex but never used it. Does it dry to hard finish the like the do it yourself truck liners? If I used it after Bondo would it work as a sealer/filler? Wish I could look/buy it a brick and mortar store.
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12 hours ago, pzannucci said:
Exactly what needs to be done. It is best to use a wood that will not be so rough after the first coat (raises from absorbing the paint) thus to minimize sanding. I do love sanding - NOT!!!
Using a pine plywood, had do a little Bondo work so I am just using .99 cent flat black from home depot to find the bad area's. (More sanding, yea!) Since I had to do a little Bondo work I am going to use some filler paint before spray the epoxy. As usual this project is getting more complicated the expected.
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On 2/22/2018 at 10:05 AM, moray james said:
use a sealer/primer first after your surface prep.The sealer will stop paint from sucking into the wood. Remember the prep time that you spend will determine the ultimate quality of your finish. Pick a nice color for the inside.
Was not going to use a sealer but did not think about the paint sucking into the wood, good point! I am just going with black since there will be grill on the front of speaker.
Sand, sand, sand till I am sick of it then sand once more, got to be the worst but most important part. Good points moray, thanks.
Going to get back to it on sunday.
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On 2/21/2018 at 1:36 PM, HPower said:
With the use of some crumpled up cellophane or plastic, you can get a leather look to the finish.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/27527-durotex-leather-look
I was going to try this technique when I built my F-20 sub but got scared by the size of the cabinet so I ended up using their textured roller for the "normal" look.
I did test the leather technique on a small piece of scrap, and it did give a real leatherette look.
Interesting but looking for a smooth finish for inside of horn. Might work for outside cabinet will keep it in mind. Picked up a can of appliance paint yesterday and it seems to work well. Did 3 light coats on a piece of plywood and so far seems durable. Took a screw drive and tapped the paint with no chipping. Scratched it with the screw and it did leave a mark but I,don't think paint was completely dry.
Decided to try it on the inside of horn, maybe a few days but I post my findings.
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Was looking at home depot online and found a spray epoxy appliance paint. It's cheap only 3.79 for a can, I going to pick a can today and give a test run on a piece of scrap plywood. I will let guys know it works.
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1 hour ago, pzannucci said:
Either or.
Depends how much work you want to put into it and what your resulting finish requirements are.
If you want a smooth finish, go with the epoxy though may take a few coats. Rough one coat, duratex.
Thanks! Smooth finish is what I'm looking for so I will look into epoxy. I don't mind the extra work.
Cecaa850 - We must been typing at the same, which coating would last longer and be easiest to work with? Might come down to cost..
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26 minutes ago, jbsl said:
Ljk that is a project I would like to do for my Chorus IIs. I have an Academy but have not used it with my Chorus IIs.
I was using an academy for my center before I build the new one, academy is nice but I really like the new center much better. Keep your eyes open for deals on parts or maybe get lucky and find a single II, cls, ebay, here are good sources. If you plan on keeping your II's I think you will find it worth while.
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I have a plywood horn that needs paint/coating, I would like a strong durable long lasting finish for inside of horn. Is duratex my best option or maybe some type of expoxy paint. Thanks!
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5 hours ago, absolve2525 said:
I have an R115 that sounds excellent and plays plenty loud. If you can't find a 117, or don't want to spend the $$, I think a 115 would do nicely.
Don't have the cash for an r 117 right now, seem to go for 3 to 4 hundred on ebay. One auction finished last night, in the last few minutes it jump from under to 2 hundred to over 3 hundred and it wasn't fully tested.
Might be time to start looking at a r 115, thanks guys!
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Thanks! R 115 's seem to be cheaper and more plentiful then r 117. Been thinking about one for awhile but beening old reliable could be an issue. My room is approx. 12 x18 x 10 and I don't play my onkyo over 74, would the 115 be a good match?
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Does a luxman r 115 have enough power to push chorus II, good headroom?
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15 minutes ago, wvu80 said:
I am in BOTH camps as I am certified inept at soldering and crimping.
I remember doing one crimp job where I squeezed so hard I snapped the crimp in half. My soldering joints looks like someone squeezed the solder out of a tube of toothpaste.
QuoteSeriously, are any of you guys who are advocating soldering claiming that you can actually hear an audible difference between a cable that has been soldered vs a cable which has been twisted together through some surround speakers?
C'mon man.
Best mechanical connection is soldering, crimping with a good crimper is next. Twisting wires together and using tape is just a bad idea, the wires can easily come apart. Audible difference, maybe?
What ever method used I always off set the wires by an inch so they don't short out in case the wires come apart.
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6 hours ago, jason str said:
Solder and heat shrink is the proper way. Twisting wires together and taping is a no no.
Crimping would be a second best alternative.
Agree. If crimping don't use a cheap flat one, a good can be had for under 10 bucks and wires wouldn't pull a part.
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I built a center to match my chorus II and it works great. The speaker box was built from 2 other sub projects that never happen so it is slightly smaller in volume than an orginal chorus II. Bought used a k 61 mid and k 79 tweet, a new kappa c for bass. Built the crossover with all new parts from bob crites, bob even send the chorus II xover diagram with the parts. There is no radiator speaker in the rear but I didn't feel its was need being used as a center channel. Sounds like my II's with only a slightly different sound in bass that I actually like.
If your center will be made to match your mains I would go for it. The easy way would be to find/buy a single speaker that matches your mains. If you built your own I would using matching xover and componets to get a good tonal match, mix and match componets not a good idea.
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Ksw 300 sub for 65.00 in Atlanta cls
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On 1/25/2018 at 2:17 PM, CECAA850 said:
That depends on the manufacturer. Some allow a full signal out. Some allow everything above the crossover out. Some have a set filter for the mains and allow everything above that point to the mains. There's not a standard that I'm aware of.
True you have to look at receiver your own I was just speaking in general, trying not to confuse to much.
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On 1/11/2018 at 7:54 PM, Fenderplayer said:
Try website concertsondvd.com
They seem to have a good selection and easy to browse site.
Just checked and they do carry a good selection and easy to browse. Best buy I found carry some but only online. I have some options now just have to decide which concerts to get, thanks for the info!
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2 hours ago, 314carpenter said:
I have read about others having success using other Klipsch center speakers, but the ones I have listed are the only, quality, centers I ever used personally. The thing the Academy had going for it was the timbre match with the extended heritage. I know better centers have come along since then, but I have heard they do loose a portion of the timbre vs the Academy. I could easily be wrong here.
I currently have the new to me oiled oak chorus II's in various stages of refinishing. I actually removed as much of the original oils as possible using lacquer thinner, sanded 120/220 and applied a non-grain raising "NGR" dye to simulate the old warm patina. Looking like new, except the risers which I will need to re-veneer at a future time. Just not sure where they will ultimately be placed in the room. This pair has completely stock components. Good for another A/B session later. I might even get out the Carver TFM-42 375W x 2 and do some A/B with the Outlaw 5000. Oh were going to have some pissed off neighbors.
For a front stage I would still try the chorus II and a forte II. If I remember they share the same the same mid and tweeters. The more I listen to my 3 way front the more I like it. I was running an academy ( which I still have ) center before I build my diy center chorus and diy is so much better. The academy runs the k 76 tweeter and to me at times can sound a little shrill at times.
I really don't think the academy's have a place in your system as nice as they are. I think you could do better with more modern sides/rears and have a much smaller footprint. The klipsch speakers build for surround sound should give a better HTexperience imho because your room is long and narrow. If it was wider the quartets might work but in your room I would look at klipsch speakers build for surround sound. .02
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14 hours ago, MookieStl said:
Thought you were holding out for splits!
Have fun with them. The block parties just got a little louder!
I am not far from jasper I could drive up there with my angle grinder and turn them into splits before there shipped? Glad someone bought these, been hanging over my head just can't justify the money right now.
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14 hours ago, CECAA850 said:
When you see a disc or track labeled as 5.1, the .1 channel is the LFE channel. Normally your receiver will put the LFE track and everything below your crossover point on the Sub Out jack of your receiver.
Listen to the guys at SVS.
And if you hook speaker outs from sub to the other speakers (surrounds and mains)everything above crossover point goes to those speakers. When you get above to the 80 120 hz range you are getting more into the mid bass range. Just get a sub that digs low and you will be happy! Yours should work fine.
25Hz Tapped Horn
in Subwoofers
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