rennocneb

what USPARC said is dead on. Everyone can knock me because there ears say DTS is better, but you do not know if they are from the same masters how much the DTS mix is doctored up and have not performed a true blind level matched test. If you doctor a Dolby Digital track and then encode it it will sound better than DTS. I am comparing the two formats not how they are used. Dolby Digital is the better format no doubt about it from a format standpoint. But DTS does at times sound better because of better masters and doctoring for more dynamics, bass, and clarity.

Both Dolby Digital and DTS start with the same audio signal and then perform a mathmatical algorithim on it to compress it. Dolbys alogorithim is just better using less space for the same quality of sound as DTS thats what i mean by less efficent. Also everyone seems to note how DTS sounds a little better again its because they are not doing a level matched controlled comparasion. Dolby Digital is normally about 6bb quiter than DTS at the same volumne setting. Also the DTS tracks are often doctored up to help them sound better. Whereas the Dolby Tracks are pretty much what you hear in the theater. On DVD-A vs SACD i havent set down for an A, B comparasion i will tell you that i personally own a SACD player but not a DVD-A player yet

The sampling rate really effects the maximum frequency response at 48khz you get response to 24khz at 96khz to 48khz basically you can record frequencys up to half the sampling rate. Yes dolby and dts use the same sampling rate but the sound for these depend more on the compression technology not the sampling rate. They are almost in distingushable from each other at 1.4mbit for dts and 448kbps for dolby. And i meant that the dts codec rolls off sharply above 15khz when recording at 754bps. As for your b&k showing 48khz when watching that dvd it is more than likely because most all dvd players down sample all outgoing digital to 48khz. Why some say the recording industry is to blame not sure but there are a few players that will output 96khz but im not sure of any right now.

The DTS sound that is included in many of todays DVDs(754kbps) is sub par to dolby digital in many ways it rolls off sharply at about 15khz. The reason many people report it sounding better is that DTS is approximately 6db louder than dolby at the same volume setting on your reciever. The louder of any two things whether it be codecs or speakers sounds better to us. DTS at 1.4mbit on the other hand is virtually in distingushible from Dolby Digital at 448kbps I have read many articles were very qualified audiophiles were unable to tell any difference in the two. So all the claims about DTS sounding better because of its high bit rate are false it is just less efficent however often times great care is taken in mixing the DTS versions meaning the sound is better but DTS has nothing to due with it.

Well i would tell a person they could get a good deal on used equipment because we also sale used equipment. The bryston is a very nice amp but im not so sure about it having more power or slam. I have heard both side by side on very difficult loads such as martin logans and quads dipping to as low as 1ohm and the NAD will definetly keep right up with the bryston in all those respects and yes you can get a good deal on a used bryston and still have a warranty but there is something to say about something being brand new. Also again i was trying to point out that you and others like TheEAR are not comparing apples to apples. Saying that you can get a good used bryston for the same price as the NAD means they are not products in the same price category. TheEAR is even more absurd by comparing a Krell to an NAD no doubt the Krell is a better amp but for god sake it costs 5-100 times more than the NAD depending on the model you buy. The sunfires are just plain awesome for what they cost. Are there better sounding amps sure but not many for $2500 dollars and none in its power category. Again compare apples to apples sure i love bryston, krell, and many other very high end products but they are in very different categorys from NAD.

If you are willing to spend around $2500 then the sunfire is the amp to have it cant be beat for raw power.

I work in an audio store that sells Onkyo, NAD, B&K, Sunfire, Carver, Lexicon, Denon, PSB, Klipsch, Monitor Audio, Argon, Bryston and can say that having heard the above mentioned Onkyo amps they do sound very good but as you pointed you are looking at $4500 amp, again no one looks at the performance per dollar offered by NAD $1100 buys a 225wx2 amp the 218THX its stereophile recommened and i have yet to hear its equal for its price.

I would just like to respnd to the above post about turning the level on the sub all the way up so the amp doesnt clip in it. That is dead wrong that is a gain control and as such the higher its set the more likely the amp is to clip with the same input signal. You should experiment with your combination some recievers with high voltage sub outs dont require as much gain as others but setting it to highest for reliebailty is just plain crazy that makes it much more likely to clip.

Well NAD Amps are indeed high current able to deliever around 45-65amps of peak current versus the onkyos 10-20amps, i agree Krell are higher current amps but they arent in the same price range. You cant compare a camaro to a mclaren f1 and say the camaro doesnt run good. I was making a camporasion to like proce products not a $1000 NAD versus a $10000 krell.

The la scala and K-horns arent that tough of a load if the load gets tough and real current is needed the NAD will defintely win out

When you are looking at recievers the power ratings are very deceptive for example a 120watt a channel pioneer or kenwood is about a 60watt a channel onkyo and a 100watt onkyo is about a 70watt a channel denon and a 100watt denon is about a 50watt NAD. NAD is what i actaully use and love you can get a two channel NAD integrated amp starting at $200. its only 20watts but a very gutsy 20watts for about $400 you can get a 60watt integrated very good power

It is defintly not the speakers causing your problem i have seen these driven off of sunfire amps 300watts rms and no problems. Why, because its clean power unlike the optimus which may be rated at 100watts but is probably lucky to make 10watts with all channels driven. If you are going to buy an $850 set of klipsch bookshelfs you really need to put a good amp behind them not some piece of junk. I have the entire refrence line and am using NAD amplification and have had no problems. Look at some of the smaller NAD integrateds they are around the same price as that audiosource you posted the link for and much better quality.

The hiss you are hearing is normal as long as its not overpowering in listening. But during silence or really quite patches you will hear it. Its one of a few of drawbacks to klipschs ultra high effieceny drivers. A small hiss you wouldnt hear in a dome tweeter is now loud enough to hear thanks to the horns better efficency. As for the pops i assume this is while watching DVDs probably at the start of the movie and in the menus. This is a product of your DVD its fairly common for a player or reciever to send out a small pop when switching surround sound modes. You can get setups that dont have hiss or pop but you would have payed much more than you did for your denon. Basically its not the speakers its your reciever making the hiss and its normal unless its very loud.

I think jts8 needs to pick his ears i am using klipsch RF-3's and the difference is easily noticed. You gain a fuller midrange and louder more extened bottom end plain and simple of course if you are using junky wire that could be a lot of the trouble.

I work for a klipsch dealer and i would have to say that the kg series will make bass to 32hz but the bass in not nearly as clean or powerful as from a seperate sub. Also i dont mean to make you mad but the kg series is no where near the caliber of the RF series klipschs. they have redisgned them for the best the kgs just dont cut it in comparision.

It is all about how the manufactuer states the FCC rating for example a 100x5 sony may be rated as follows 100watts per channel into 6ohms at 1khz One Channel driven. While a 60watt NAD for example is rated as follows 60watts per channel into 8ohms from 20hz-20khz all five channels driven this is a gods honest 60 watts, but by rating at 6ohms and only one channel driven with high distortion numbers sony is able to pump up the specs. Most people never look to see the frequency bandwith an amp is rated over or the number of channels being dirven thata is very important. For example a very well known company Denon rates all there recievers with 2 channels driven far from all 5 or 7 in some cases so it may make rated power with 2 driven but no where near rated power with all driven.

I dont know where the number that mitsu sales 70% of projection tv's but that is dead wrong. My father has a Mitsu 55inch widescreen HDTV its picture is good dont get me wrong but it is no comparasion to the 65inch hitachi i just purchased. The Mitsu is great for high def source but it doesnt allow you to turn off the artifical looking edge enhanacement in standadrd def modes. Which makes things look cartoonish from sources such as DVD also the stretch modes for non widescreen programming is just flat horrible compared to hitachi and sony. Mitsu is a great tv but not any better than many cheaper tv's of the same size.