Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 91RS

  • Rank
  1. Maybe I misunderstood the first time, so y'all are saying to only cut the grove in the drywall to get around the header and then go back inside the wall? I thought it was cut a groove all the way down (much messier).
  2. That's not an option either since there's a fireplace on the right wall and the opening to the kitchen on the rear wall. Only way to get to this corner is overhead.
  3. There is fireproof expanding foam of some type in the holes but I was able to push an NM wire through it when I added two floodlights outside a while ago so it isn't as hard as concrete, that's for sure (adding those flood lights is why I vaguely know what's up there). I was thinking I could cut up a wire hanger and tape a straight piece of it to the speaker wire to give it rigidity (and shouldn't hurt any of the surrounding wires) and maybe some weight to help it go all the way down when pushing it from the top. A fish tape will get caught up, I think. Drywall modification would be a last resort I think, it makes such a blooming mess.
  4. That's exactly what my though process was. I definitely don't want to nick the electrical wires trying to drill another hole if there isn't enough room there and I won't know until I go back up there and look and see if I can even get the auger bit in there where it'll be drilling the hole perpendicular and not at an angle (which will be key to this whole thing). Yes, the wire is already in the attic area coming out of the ceiling in corner where I had the old speaker mounted. I've already soldered about 10' more wire to that and I was going to go up there and pull that up and then push it down through the header and then cut a hole for another wall box (the speaker wire will not be in the same box as an electrical outlet) and add the banana plug plate. Yes, approx. same height as all the electrical outlets. My house has been finished a while. I'm doing this now because I'm upgrading the speakers from my old Polks and trying to get them in more of a proper position (with the wife kicking and screaming the whole way!!). Here's a picture of the area I'm working in. I took this picture of another house in my neighborhood that's the same floor plan when I was trying to figure out how to do the wiring for my old speakers. The electrical wiring wasn't installed yet in this picture but there are two holes there in my house, one hole as the wiring for the dining room and outside lights and the other hole has wiring for an electrical outlet. I circled the area this is in. Looking at this picture, I don't see that its going to be possible to get the auger bit in there and not risk damage to those wires already there.
  5. Nope. Hardwood. I can get the wire down into the wall from the attic, that isn't really the problem. The problem is I don't know if I have the room to drill a separate hole just for the speaker wire and if I do have the room to do that, it will only be a few inches at most away from the power wires. If I can't drill a separate hole then I can push it through one of the two existing holes that have power wires going through them. I didn't think this was a problem for anything other than potential interference and that's what I was Googleing and found people acting like this was the worst thing ever and claiming it was a fire hazard (how I'm not sure since the NM wire and speaker wire are both double insulated and they won't be going into the same box), against code, etc. Even if I ran the wire on the outside of the drywall, it still isn't that much further away from the wires inside the wall so I would imagine the interference potential wouldn't be much different. That's more what I'm concerned with. If this is really an issue then I guess the consideration would be the external conduit.
  6. That wouldn't be ideal for looks but could be done since my speaker wires already come out at the upper corners for the speakers I'm replacing (didn't know at the time that wasn't the right place to put them). My plan was to install a banana plug wall plate on either side so it would look good and could be unplugged easily. I just finished soldered extensions on so they reach the bottom and I'm going to end up doing whatever else I do next weekend since I'm out of time (which is fine, its supposed to be 10* cooler next weekend).
  7. I finally got the wife to let me use speaker stands for my side surrounds (RB-61) and I was planning on dropping the wires down today so all I have to do is plug in the speakers when the stands come in but I might have a problem for the right rear one. This corner of the room has a window on one wall and an opening to the kitchen on the other wall. From the corner I only have 9.5" to the window and 14.5" to the opening. Both already have electrical wires running down for light switches and sockets so to get the speaker wire down to the floor, I really have no choice but to run it somewhat side-by-side with the electrical wires that are already there. I would like to drill a new hole in the header just for the speaker wire because it will be easier to get it to the bottom but I'm not sure if I'll have the room to get the auger bit in there at the right angle because of the roof coming down, and there's only 14.5" to work with and already wires in the way so I don't want to risk damaging those. I Googled this and found every answer under the sun from it'll be fine to it'll burn your house down and kill the Manatees. My father-in-law in a building inspector for the next county over and he said it wasn't against code and didn't see what it could hurt since the NM electrical wire and in-wall speaker wire are both double insulated. I understand it isn't ideal but I really don't see what other choice I have.
  8. I saw that. I ended up buying the RC-62 and if Fry's happens to do the $135 price again on the RC-62 II, then I'll pick that up so everything matches visually and resell the one I have and hopefully break even.
  9. WTB: RB-61 II and RC-62II

    Oops, I didn't specify. It's for the RC-62 II.
  10. It's on sale this week but only for $274. Not nearly as good a deal as the $130 or $150 sale.
  11. WTB: RB-61 II and RC-62II

    It's on sale this week but only for $274. Not nearly as good a deal as the $130 or $150 sale. I don't guess $150 more for new and a slight color difference isn't really worth it.
  12. Thanks for the pictures.
  13. WTB: RB-61 II and RC-62II

    I didn't even notice that in pictures. I think I could live with that, too. I'm not sure if I should just be patient and wait for Fry's to hopefully do a sale again or strike while the iron is hot and pick this one up. I could likely resell it and break even at worst if I decided I'd really rather have the II. Maybe Fry's will put it on the sale this week, waiting for the e-mail!