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rlmerrell69

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Posts posted by rlmerrell69

  1. 3 hours ago, jason str said:

    You could easily get by using the 12" driver version for that setup, the 15" driver version would be total overkill.

    Hmm, you make a good point there. I'll look at the 12'' plans for the Tuba if I could understand the plans well enough to see what measurements I need for a 12inch. If I decide to go with this plan, I may still stick with the 15''. I'd like to get acquainted with my low skill levels before trying to perfect a 12 incher. I just thought of a crazy question, wall mounting a Tuba? Then make floating shelves between the tubas(if I mount them on the front walls only) but not touching the Tubas. One massive wall-mounted entertainment system.

     

    3 hours ago, Shiva said:

    How far are you from this Marty, somewhere in Oklahoma.   Price is nice too. 

     

    I'm from Texas, very south tip of Texas.

     

    3 hours ago, Shiva said:

    Everything you might want to know, if building Marty subs.

     

    Thanks for the link, i'm going over it now.

  2. 54 minutes ago, jason str said:

    Horn loaded subs put out clean effortless bass, its worth the extra effort if this is the goal.

     

    The THTLP just stands on end firing up into the ceiling using minimum floor space.

     

    What kind of system components are you using ?

     

    My current setup in progress:

    Receiver: Onkyo TX-RZ810

    Fronts: RP-8000F

    Center: RC-62ii

    Rears(Working on getting these): RB-81ii or RP-600M otherwise i'm using my Quintet speakers

    Subwoofer: SW-112 Reference Series

     

    2 hours ago, babadono said:

    If you go Marty and want easy check out GSG audio:

     

    I've been checking them out, it seems  pretty reasonable. But it also seems real fun building it myself.

     

    4 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

    Big ported subs can certainly go lower and loud but not as clean.  Many people use these if they're mostly used for HT.  Horns when mostly music.  Again, these aren't absolutes rather rules of thumb and there are certainly exceptions.

     

    Hmmm, my leaning meter is still right smack in the middle for Marty Subs or Tuba HT. 

  3. Good day everyone,

     

    After giving it a lot of thought, I pulled the trigger on plans to build a Tuba HT Sub... BUT...

    Then continued to read the forms here and there. I've never done any testing or heard how these 3 subs listed in the title perform and compare.

     

    I started to wonder, what the opinions of those here and there think about the differences between the subs and how they perform? I'm a 85% movie 15% music person. So really feeling John Wick's pistol bang gets me thrilled. Feeling my seat vibrating from the opening scene of Prometheus takes my breath away. I couldn't help but to wonder what the experience is like for those who own these subs? I know I can't use my room size and ears to match with someone else that has experience with these subs. Everyone has different ears and room sizes.

     

    The question I have is, Which sub gets me the that bang form John Wick and seat shaking from Prometheus? I don't think the DA Sub Kits would get me that, considering the price for one of those is a bit higher than the Full Marty or Tuba HT and they're sealed. I suppose it's a battle between the Full Marty and Tuba HT? Space isn't really an issue, cost is a considerable factor. Also, I can't find any build plans for the Marty Subs. I have included pictures and dimensions as best as I could. I haven't met anyone near me who may have built these subs to hear them. I live in the corner south tip of Texas(RGV). I'd like to hear thoughts, opinions and or suggestions! I'm pretty curious.

     

    My current setup in progress:

    Receiver: Onkyo TX-RZ810

    Fronts: RP-8000F

    Center: RC-62ii

    Rears(Working on getting these): RB-81ii or RP-600M otherwise i'm using my Quintet speakers

    Subwoofer: SW-112 Reference Series

     

    Note: Movies listed are just references. I have a circular saw, i'm curious if it may be better to buy a flat pack and glue it together. Those Marty Sub flat packs are pretty considerable by the price compared to buying a couple more tools and cutting it myself. Although, I wouldn't turn down gaining some wood-working'ish experience. 

    1396987351_2019-03-2118_12_37.thumb.jpg.a33334c33fd959ce34d1247212be1f7d.jpg

    136007297_2019-03-2118_13_54.thumb.jpg.d169e7c68e0a42ace6baf5a1ce90f600.jpg

  4. 14 minutes ago, JohnA said:

    The sloped ceiling will be an advantage for bass smoothness.  Use at least 2 subs that are capable of -3 dB at 20 Hz, in room.  Place them near mid-wall front and rear.  Don't overlook the Parts Express sub kits.

     

    Modern HT receivers are rated at x watts, 2 channels driven.  The power supplies are so weak that the all channels driven output is FAR less, commonly half.  So, if you are cranking it with all channels on, you might be pushing the amp section too hard.  Sounds like it. 

     

    The best my system ever sounded was with 4 La Scalas and a Heresy center. Use the largest rears you can and make sure at least the squawkers and tweeters are above the height of your furniture.  Choose from the same line so they sound as alike as possible. 

     

    Have you tested the parts express kits? How well do they run compared to a Tuba HT? Originally I liked the 18inch subwoofer flatpack parts express has. Then I saw the Full Marty-Sub and liked what I saw on 'paper' and youtube reviews. Now I ran into the Tuba HT and really curious if it's really that good. I don't mind doing a Tuba as I have plenty of height space at the front wall and back wall. If you don't mind me picking at your brain a little, why near-mid? If I can't place my towers and Tuba where I would want them, I don't mind laying it down acting as a 'table' in the front mid and rear mid. 

     

    Moder receiver specs sometimes overwhelm me. At the time of cranking, I only have the L and R channels connected. So the Onkyo TX-RZ810 should have had plenty of power to drive the RP-8000Fs I have.

    As for the matching speakers, you're suggesting I get towers or at least RP-600Ms for my rears?

  5. On 3/23/2019 at 10:40 PM, M_Klipsch said:

    Nice! Which ones did you decide to go with?  

    I went with the Tuba HT and Tuba HT Low Profile(even though it's 6ft tall).

    I'm thinking of making 2 of the LP ones and make them look like pillars. I'm wondering why point the port towards the wall and not towards the viewer? Maybe it doesn't matter?

    Anyhow, many questions for these subs. That will be for their form and for me to read through all the threads to try answering the questions on my own.

    • Like 1
  6. On 3/22/2019 at 11:14 PM, M_Klipsch said:

     

    The Tubas don’t seem to need too much amp. I’m using a Yung 300w plate amp. I doubt you’d need much more than that for any of them, even the big ones. As far as cost they are really reasonable. I’ve got less than $300 in mine. However, it is still unfinished so a little more to spend. You will need to measure and make fairly straight cuts though 😀

    Oh and you’ll need to follow directions. The designer is big on following directions, and sticking with the plan.

     

    I love it!

     

    Sounds like efficient quality bass for a great price. Maybe, if anyone hasn't done it, i'll build a Full Marty Sub and a Tuba HT and compare. It will be quite some time before I get to that point though. As you can see the home is still being renovated.

     

    On another topic but related, not sure if I should create a new thread for it but we'll see. The time I did raise the volume on my pair of RP-8000F to reference levels... They didn't sound that great as I assumed they would. Maybe they haven't been broken in? I've had them for a couple months but never played them past 65(on the 0 to 98 scale?). OR could it be the receiver I got, I have regrets on it. I got the Onkyo TX-RZ810 and it says 200 W/Ch (6 Ohms), 130 W/Ch (8 Ohms) but only gives the option for 4ohms or 6ohms. The manual says to leave it at 6ohms as it serves both 6 and 8 ohms... But being a first timer using this brand, i'm skeptical because on the site it literally lists 8ohms. And this ARC feature breaks after a couple days. My Yamaha RX-V377 is 8ohms and really goes well with my Quintet system. I can almost admit it sounds better than this Denon trying to power these RP-8000F towers. I'll also add these are the only speakers connected to the Denon at this time. Maybe i'm over-driving it?

  7. 10 hours ago, M_Klipsch said:

    Forgot the Subwoofer question. I just built a T18 tuba sub it was fun and sounds great. Bill Fitzmaurice has some great designs, I’m definitely going to build another one of his subs. If you are moderately handy, it’s worth a look.

    https://billfitzmaurice.info/index.html

     

     

    I'm pretty handy, the difficulties are trying to cut a straight line and within measurements. I saw some flat packs for the Full Marty Sub. I think the cost for the amp, sub and box would be about $800 range. For 2 sets and 1 amp it's about 1500.

     

    I see the THT Box (Tuba HT) looks like it tops the Marty Sub and cheaper? Doesn't really recommend a amp to go with it though.

  8. 10 hours ago, M_Klipsch said:

    Fwiw. I’m using an RC-62ii with RP-280Fs which are the previous model to your

    RP-8000Fs, so I’m going to say that will work well. I’d prefer the RC-64 but it’s really big, in size and $, plus my wife is still adjusting to the RP-280Fs, so that’s not going to happen anytime soon.  I have used RB-61iis in that set up and thought they sounded good, but I had placement issues with those and switched to RP502S, still some placement issues (WAF). I’ll bet the RB-81ii would sound great with your RP8000.

     

    Nice! I thought they would be a good fit considering the woofer size. I just bought a RC-62 ii for a decent price. I hope it's in the great condition they claimed it to be.

    There was a pair of RB-81 ii for $200 fantastic condition. Unfortunately it the guy didn't want to ship them and I couldn't drive fast enough(about 350 to 400 miles away) to ****** them before someone else could. The only concern I had about the RB/RC/R? series is the tweeter.

     

    Me and a group of friends enjoy reference sound levels so I feel confident with the advice from y'all and Klipsch this will sound awesome and hold up with reference levels. And if it doesn't, well I can always sell them and get matching RP speakers.

    2019-03-21 18.12.37.jpg

  9. 57 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

    You are not the only one, my friend!  It is confusing.  Let me try to clarify briefly.  All of these are two-way speakers.

     

    R - Entry level.

     

    RP - Reference Premier  Mid level, considered to have very good sound but the cabs will not be the premium veneer.

     

    RF- Reference, this is the flagship speaker in this series.  It has better sound and furniture quality finish than the RP series.

     

     

    R-28F is the older model being phased out.  It has two 8" woofers and is floorstanding.

    RP-280F - Older Reference Premier model being phased out. Two 8" woofers floorstanding.

    The RP-800F is the latest and greatest of the mid-level speakers.  Two 8" woofers, floorstanding.

     

    So, I should go with the RC-62 ii and RB-81 ii?

    Here is a picture of the living room. It's still under renovations.

     

     

  10. 7 hours ago, wvu80 said:

    If you have a picture or two that might help.  I don't visualize well.  B)

    +++

     

    In general I would say that bigger is better.  Because I don't visualize well I'm not sure what the rear soundstage is.  Is it open or does close-in to a back wall?  If you have a back wall then a bookshelf would be best because you can set them on different things, bookshelf, wall-mount, speaker stands.  Floor standing speakers take more floor space.

     

    And even though I just suggested bigger was better, I have the RP-600M's.  They are incredibly versatile and sound great as mains or surrounds at a much less cost than the floorstanders.  My observation is they don't sound great at ultra high levels or very low SPL.  They need a little juice and you don't want to overdrive them but the middle has a very full sweet spot.

     

    Hey Wvu80!

     

    Appreciate the reply! the front wall is closed, the back wall is closed. I imagine the seating arrangement won't be against the wall. So there would be some space between the back wall and the back of the couch/sofa but not a whole lot.

     

    I'm a little 'confused' as far as the Klipsch line-up goes. I see the R-28F and the R-820F then we have the RP-280F and RP-8000F. It makes sense that Reference Premier is a more premium line-up. But then there's the other Reference line-up with RC-62 ii and RC64 iii, RS-62 ii and RF-61 ii. Is this other Reference Line-up a higher quality than the RP line-up? On paper it looks to be more premium. But i'm not sure when it comes to hearing them in person? I see you have the RC-64 iii and that thing must really blow things away according to it's specs. This is why i'm considering the RF-61 ii for my rears, then I come to think they're almost 10 years old and Klipsch, i'm sure, will be updating those soon. I'm even considering the RC-62 ii for my center as well. Then there's also the price, they're cheaper than the RP speakers in the open-box, used market.

     

    It's difficult for me to choose as the dealers around here absolutely SUCK. I've gone to 3 of them and their setup is complete crap. The sound matrix is not correct, the settings are totally out of this world and well they are, in the fullest sense of the word, clueless about HT products and setup.

    • Like 1
  11. Good day everyone!

     

    I just moved to a home and trying to figure out how to setup and complete the Klipsch system.

    The living room is open to the dining and kitchen, and at the end. So it's got 3 walls where the 4th is what's open to the dining and kitchen. There is a sliding door to the patio and 1 large window.

    The ceiling is slanted, back side being about 8ft and the front site is 12ft much higher. I still do have my Quintet 5.0 system with a 12 inch sub. I was planning on putting all matching speakers with my RP-8000F towers but not sure if it's reasonable to use towers for the rear as well considering they're up there in price. I could get away with the RP-600M. But I stumbled on the RB-81 ii, 8 inch woofer bookshelf speaker. I thought this would be a great match to the towers I have. On to the questions!

     

    Should I go for the RB81ii or the RP600M for my rear speakers? Or should I get the RP-8000F towers?

    I have a SW-112 sub-woofer, what would be an upgrade to that? Or should I build my own sub-woofer? I'm considering the Full Marty sub-woofer build.

    Finally, what do y'all use for acoustic dampening? My walls are bare and one side is tall. Not sure how to tackle making sure acoustic panels are in the proper place.

     

    ADDED:

    On another topic but related, not sure if I should create a new thread for it but we'll see. The time I did raise the volume on my pair of RP-8000F to reference levels... They didn't sound that great as I assumed they would. Maybe they haven't been broken in? I've had them for a couple months but never played them past 65(on the 0 to 98 scale?). OR could it be the receiver I got, I have regrets on it. I got the Onkyo TX-RZ810 and it says 200 W/Ch (6 Ohms), 130 W/Ch (8 Ohms) but only gives the option for 4ohms or 6ohms. The manual says to leave it at 6ohms as it serves both 6 and 8 ohms... But being a first timer using this brand, i'm skeptical because on the site it literally lists 8ohms. And this ARC feature breaks after a couple days. My Yamaha RX-V377 is 8ohms and really goes well with my Quintet system. I can almost admit it sounds better than this Denon trying to power these RP-8000F towers. I'll also add these are the only speakers connected to the Denon at this time. Maybe i'm over-driving it?

  12. I've got a couple questions again.

     

    I was lucky to pick up a pair of Klipsch R-28F speakers for a fantastic price. I have a chance of getting a pair of Klipsch R-15M for a great price(if they still have them).

    My question is(I've seen some people not use typical center speakers), can I substitute a Klipsch R-25C center speaker for the Klipsch R-15M pair and just tie them together like the bi-poles of a Klipsch R-28F?(and set them up together as one)

    I would take that route as that's half or less than half of a typical center speaker(even the one they're trying to sell), but not sure if it would affect sound or quality of the center channel.

     

    [EDIT:] I think I answered my question doing more research. While I can use both speakers, it's better to use just one to avoid Ohm issues and the 2 speakers cancelling each other out.

     

    My other question is, I might have a chance of getting another pair of Klipsch R-28F speakers at a great price. Although, I've been interested in the Klipsch RP-280F towers.

    Is the sound quality and difference so great it's worth getting the Klipsch RP-280F and put the Klipsch R-28F's to the rear?

  13. 1 hour ago, rebuy said:

     

    QUIT thinking about the "specs of the tower"--that has nothing to do with buying

    a better quality AVR. 

    What you buy depends on your money supply.

    Any Denon or Marantz will Really Outperform your Yamaha.

    They sound better.

     

    Just get what you can afford and find out for yourself.

    @rebuyRoger that, i'll certainly keep this posted once I've completed my setup.

    I appreciate all of the inputs and advice from everyone that has posted!

  14. 12 hours ago, wvu80 said:

    You got it!  👍

     

    I just looked up the Denon 5200 specs and it does have the discrete amps just like the Marantz 6011.  Both have 9 discrete power amps.

     

    Even though the Marantz is generally considered better with music than the Denon, either will do a terrific job for you.

     

    Here is what my Marantz 6011 is driving (see my signature for details. different sub from the picture).  When I am playing as loud as I can stand it which is reference level, around 85 db the power meter on the 6011 tells me I am using about 1/3 of the power available.  No matter how loud I play my music I can't get to 1/2 power.

     @wvu80, knowing your 6011 doesn't reach 1/2 power no matter what tells me that I may be overcompensating. So I have room to get a lesser powerful AVR. I don't think it would be reasonable to ride that line of 'just enough' power to run the speakers. To me, it's like a computer power supply. Buy a 800W power supply for a 700W computer is fine(just an example), but the power supply will be working hard to keep it powered. But a 1000W for a 700W computer would be better to keep the power supply more cooler and not over-work it. If this makes any sense.

    • Like 1
  15. 10 hours ago, wvu80 said:

    Thank you.  Part of my enjoyment of this hobby is finding "deals" on the used market.  Those speakers and a pair of RS-62's look nice and sound great but didn't cost all that much.

     

    The answer to your question is "yes" Audyssey will blend all your speakers together as if an audio professional came into your room and perfectly calibrated your system.

    +++

     

    I'd like to address something that concerns me.  You are looking at some really nice top tier AVR's in the $2000 range.  First of all, does that really fit your budget?  I don't want to steer you towards something just because I have one (which I got used BTW).

     

    My second concern is you are looking at an AVR that frankly is in a higher quality range than your modest set of speakers.  Even if you end up with one of those high end AVR's the sound will be limited by your speakers.  Do you have the budget or inclination to upgrade?

     

    Forgive me for trying to spend your money.  I just want to make sure we aren't "overselling" if that makes any sense.

    @wvu80, It's all good! I'm actually in the same boat. I look for deals and steals. These R-28F towers I got were 179.99 each, they were used display models and only had a couple scratches that was it. My current Yamaha receiver is refurbished and it's lasted me for a long while now. While I did get those at a steal, another question bugs me; how much better sounding are the RP-280F towers. Is it enough to justify the higher price tag(I found some 280's for just over 400each)? This would probably be for another thread. But also, I can't find any dealers around me that have these particular towers so I can hear for myself. There was a D-Tronics Theater store that has the THX speakers setup but it was TERRIBLE. They didn't have anything setup correctly(sound-wise). I felt bad for the guy helping us cause I butted in and changed the settings for him, he didn't know how! I might give them a call or go back to see if they've got the 280's up for listening.

     

    As for the AVR. If I can get a cheaper one with same specs, or similar specs(or specs compatible with the towers); i'll take that one instead. However, considering how much I crank up the sound(for movies it's around 75+-(from 0-97 range)) For music I sometimes hit 80. I just want to make sure i'm not over/under powering. I don't mind a used, refurbished or display model receiver. I typically get square-trade warranty(they never failed me) to back me up on any failures.

     

    Ultimately, I'd finally get the Klpisch THX Ultra speakers. But we're talking about a few years later. Perhaps when I get a more permanent home. And by that time i'm sure i'll be replacing everything. For now, i'm in the market for something suitable to drive the R-28F towers.

  16. 2 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

    You got it!  👍

     

    I just looked up the Denon 5200 specs and it does have the discrete amps just like the Marantz 6011.  Both have 9 discrete power amps.

     

    Even though the Marantz is generally considered better with music than the Denon, either will do a terrific job for you.

    I'm glad I finally have an understanding! Now I have better knowledge when picking a receiver(and giving advice to others). In my case, going with the R-25C(@100w cont), I would be overpowering the center speakers and not the towers; is this correct? This would make it even more preferable to have the Marantz's 110w than the Denon's 140w per channel. Unless I got a beefier center channel like the RP-450C Center Speaker(@150w cont')?

     

    @The History Kid, I was thinking a little about that too. Knowing my entry level isn't for these towers, how would I determine the quality of the 2 candidates? (Denon AVRx5200w and Marantz SR6011) I'm still reading their  overview and specifications.

  17. @rebuy, None taken! I very much welcome constructive truth and knowledge/understanding of how it works. So it's safe to say, I am 'overloading' my receiver with speakers that need more power than what the Yamaha could provide? In a better case scenario for this Yamaha is just a simple 2.1(powered sub) setup, and not a 5.1 i'm guessing. With only my Quintet speakers, I have noticed my Yamha's display kinda dim a little when I have it past 85-90(I believe 97 is the maximum) during loud moments. Even for my Quintets, I don't think I really heard much distortion. Does this mean this entry level Yamaha is a pretty good fit for my quintets I have?

     

    I ask this question because my Yamaha is at 70w... I think i'm starting to put some pieces of this amplifier puzzle together. My Yamaha receiver says 2 channel driven at 70w and dynamic power of 110w for Front L/R Speakers. So the more speakers I add, the more shared these watts are. In a sense, this receiver only has 2 'poweramps'. Where as the Marantz 6011 and the Denon AVRX5200W have a total of 9 'poweramps', with the addition of both doing 11.2 channels according to the spec sheet and the physical plugs in the back(not pre-outs). So this means, to me, that Marantz and Denon have literally 9 amplified channels(Which is why @wvu80 recommended to use pre-outs for anything past 9 speakers) so that each speaker has their own min-amp within the amp providing true 110w or 140w per channel. If this made ANY Sense... or if I missed earth completely.

    • Like 1
  18. @wvu80, my entry level Yamaha receiver has EQ built in too. Although I would need to individually set them if I didn't use auto or kept it off. I'll be honest, I've tried messing with those settings and really couldn't get what I was looking for. I'm sure i'm doing something wrong there. Or maybe it isn't a 'real' EQ. 

     

    It seems the Marantz is the preferable receiver according to y'all. I do see the cont' watts for these towers are 150. Would it still be O.K. to go with Marantz 110 watts instead of Denon's 140 watts? I only mention this because when I can, I REALLY crank up the volume to my receivers absolute maximum. I am a little deaf(about %20 deaf)(from a medical issue in my middle school days not because i'm blowing out my ear drums with sound), and I love to literally feel the sound... heh. Of course, this isn't always the case. I'd like to make sure i'm not 'underpowering' the speakers with 110watts when listening at very high volume.

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