BadChile

No worries! Bottlehead usually does a coupon code this time of year...I suspect the monoblocks won't be on sale but based on the past my guess would be 15%. Again...this is a rabbit hole. I just replaced 63 resistors in my TU8200 because....well, as I told my wife if you have to ask you wouldn't understand!

I measured once and ordered twice, both times ending up with capacitors too large for my amp. Both sets are less than a month old; the Jantzens are from Parts Express and the Mundorfs from Sonic Craft just last week. SOLDJantzen Silver Z-Cap, 0.1uF, 1200VDC. Installed, trimmed, less than one hour of use SOLD Mundorf Supreme, 0.1uF, 1400VDC. Never used - installed, trimmed, then removed. Leads trimmed as shown, can include the trimmings from the Jantzens if you want them. Price $12 a pair. $20 for four (mix and match), or $36 for all eight. Prices include shipping in continental US.

Sorry about this - I completely forgot to post the information on the Bottlehead 2A3 monoblocks: https://bottlehead.com/product/mon-amour-2a3-monoblock-amps-kit/?fbclid=IwAR1jR_QIiDctc0hEZuGjEiwfmmkVWGBfqttzWDuSVChvlkYr0dre8h403OU

Couple other thoughts: Bottlehead is releasing a pair of 2A3 based monoblocks for under $2,000 in the coming months but I can't find the link to the amp (early morning / lack of coffee / general tiredness). If I recall correctly they're priced under $2,000 for the pair. Will edit this post if I find information on the amps. The Elekit amps are well finished and well reviewed. I built and run a TU-8200 (6L6GC based, also runs EL34, KT88 and associated tubes), and if in the states, now that VK ships these out with JJ tubes I suspect they'll gain more of a following as the 12AU7 that was shipped previously was a major weak link in the amp as-built. In addition to the TU-8600 (300B based amp) listed above, there is a soon-to-be released single ended TU-8800 based on the KT88 that produces slightly more power than the TU-8200 and has a tube cage unlike the TU-8600. Additionally, the upgraded transformers are available for the TU-8800 at launch while TU-8600 owners are still in a holding pattern. As a bonus - headphone tap off the tubes so all Elekit amps double as a quality headamp. Note that Bottlehead and most of the Elekit prices include tubes with the exception of the TU-8600. But the reality is you can't go wrong going down this path rabbit hole of DIY audio. I remember silently laughing at people who spent $60 on four coupling capacitors and now here I am one of them....

While I don't have SB-2000s, I fully agree that dual subs are far superior than a single sub. I run dual Martin Logan Dynamo 700 with the wireless option, tapped off the speaker outs of an Elekit TU-8200 amp and padded down before being sent to the wireless transmitter (the Dynamo 700 does not have speaker level inputs and I was getting hum at the subs going wired and was too lazy to track down). Having tried running mono and stereo I prefer stereo.

I run an Elekit TU8200 which only has speaker outputs, to run the subs (stereo subwoofers) I use a speaker to line level convertor in parallel to the speakers. Under $10 from that giant online place named after a river in Brazil.

I run H3s off an Elekit tu-8200 amplifier. Originally I thought I needed subwoofers, so I added two Martin Logan Dynamo 700 subs. It sounded awesome, then I upgraded my tube compliment to ECC802 for the preamps and kt88 for the power tubes (tubes by JJ electronics). That really took the bass to whole nother level. while I still have the subs on I probably would have saved a good amount of money had I done the tubes first!

Once you know how to DIY you start justifying dropping 180 USD on four coupling capacitors and consider that a reasonable expense. The rabbit hole of DIY does not save you money.

While I think it is easy enough to be self taught to solder to the point of assembling a TU-8200, but starting with the amp is not the way to go. 1) The Elenco Practical Soldering Kit is a great first introduction to soldering. It got my then 7 year-old son soldering to the point of "pretty good". I was impressed. Once you do that - do another couple kits. You should be pretty good at soldering circuit boards at that point. 2) Get a reasonable iron - temperature controlled. You don't need anything amazing, the YiHUA-936B is a reasonable choice for 25USD. I used one to assemble my TU-8200, but you really need a temperature controlled iron as some of the heat sinks require a good amount of heat to flow solder. You'll probably want to get a handful of extra tips too - can't hurt. 3) Here's the kicker - you're going to outlay at least 100 Euros on practice kits, iron, solder, parts, magnifier glasses, tip cleaner, etc. Don't look at DIY as a way to save money on the first amp. Mainly because having built a TU-8200DX and done some mods I'm pretty close to taking on a TU-8600. I really enjoyed building, but I had prior soldering experience doing repairs of electronic musical instruments and working in a structural laboratory a while back. I considered the building half the fun of the amp, and the amp is no slouch. 4) Just as an aside, the RP-160 is about the lowest class of speaker I'd consider the TU-8200 and its variants on - I've run my RB-51II off it, and while a nice sound, the quality of the amplifier is held back by the inefficiency of the speakers. I really enjoy the Elekit with my Heresy III speakers for what it is worth.

I'm a huge Elekit fan - build yourself a TU-8200 for half the price, investing about $80 into tools and to replace the 12AU7 preamp tubes. If you've never soldered before get a couple practice kits - I got some off Amazon even though I've done lots of point to point soldering in the past I didn't have much circuit board soldering experience. I run mine in Triode mode, powering Heresy IIIs with 4.0 W/channel; but I have run my KG1s off it in UltraLinear Mode at 8.0 W/channel and it would drive you from the room.

I run Heresy III powered by an Elekit TU-8200 DX running JJ KT88 tubes and just started running a MartinLogan Dynamo 700W. The sub is taken off the speaker outputs, through a speaker-to-line-level circuit, then to the wireless transmitter for the Sub. To start - I'm not turning back. The sub brings the two-channel system to a whole new level. Took a couple weeks to get right, but once I got it right the subwoofer just disappeared. I didn't think I needed a sub but it really allows the Heresys to shine. I find I run at a lower volume as I'm not trying to get bass, and by doing so the system as a whole is less boomy in my room. The Heresys are running full range, and I have the Subwoofer set to around 60Hz (two pole filter - 12dB/Octave) and the volume on the sub quite low. I was considering the Dynamo 700W, the SVS SB-2000, the entry-level Rythmik, and perhaps one or two others. I ended up going with the Dynamo as it is the smallest of what I considered, I thought I'd use the wireless (correctly), and the Class AB amp vs. Class D (pure bias on my part). I got a reasonable deal on the Sub (under $400 new), and if another pops up for a reasonable price I'll likely add it.

It really is a nice little amp - I had done some soldering before but nothing of this magnitude, so I got a Hakko knock off, a bunch of tips, some 63/37 solder, a few other toys, and a handful of practice kits off ebay. Got pretty comfortable with soldering on circuit boards within 2-3 kits so bit the bullet and got the TU-8200 (DX + upgrades). The Canadian importer really bailed me out when the seller (here in the US) didn't respond to emails as some parts were missing from the kit. I'm really close to getting a TU-8600 because I like the 8200 so much. Both as an amp and a nice project to spend my evenings working on, I found assembling the 8200 quite enjoyable to and got a little teary eyed when I realized I was completed. In a nice little aside my wife wasn't impressed with both the time I spent building it (12 or so hours), didn't like that I spent the money on the amp; but a few weeks later she did say how much nicer it sounded compared to my old Onkyo receiver. So I got that going for me. If I do get it either my 7 year old will inherit the 8200 or I'll biamp the Heresys, using the TU-8200 for the bass and the TU-8600 for the mids and highs.

I just registered here because I just finally got around to taking a look at the crossover on a pair of KG1s I found in a neighbor's trash last summer (reminder to knock on his door and ask if he is throwing anything else away.) I immediately loaned the speakers out to a coworker as the wife says I have too many speakers as is (Heresy II, RB-51 II) but my 7 year old son wants a system in his room. I figured the KG1s would be a good match for an old Onkyo receiver I have sitting around and I'd like to place the speakers flush against the wall. For the record the KG1 board uses the same board as the KG1 but in a different configuration and component values. In fact, the QC sticker in the photo above hides that fact as below it the board is printed with both KG1 and KG3. Easy to get confused if you're shopping by looking at the board, so for future reference - check the component values. I replaced the two 25uF electrolytic capacitors with Polypropylene capacitors (they are monsters - had to make leads for each of them), and the two 5 Ohm / 5 Watt Resistors. I skipped the film caps as my understanding is those rarely go bad. Plus I didn't feel like putting too much money into these speakers! I did an a/b test to see the improvement after one speaker was done and it was noticeable but nothing earth shattering. In terms of comparison over the past hour with the rebuilt crossovers the Heresy III fills my relatively small living room quite well but the KG1s are no slouch. The RB-51 II's are a solid last in the scheme of things. I'll say this - I could live with the KG1s in a pinch given my space but don't tell my wife that. I really like these little speakers. Quite enjoyable with the Elekit TU-8200 running KT88s over the past hour.