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About BadChile

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  1. I too have a Mani, only recently replaced in the system by a Bottlehead Reduction + Integration at four times the cost + labor hours to build, running into an Elekit TU-8200 (tubes). I really liked the Mani for what is was and considered it "endgame" but as usual I got a case of upgraditus. For the OP - I have it on the shelf if you're interested in purchasing used. I ran the Ortofon 2M Red off a U-Turn Orbit for about 18 months and it paired well before I switched to the Nagaoka MP-110.
  2. Nice. Having built a reduction, post here if you have issues. Heads up that the voltage check on terminals 44 and 45 is wonky: measuring DC you should read 0 Volts, but there is AC on those terminals so your meter might spit out a reading (mine reads 75V). One other thing is that a high resistance, say over 1 MOhm is as good as open. Good luck. Other than the case I really enjoyed my build and it worked great right off the bat.
  3. Having built an Elekit TU-8200 and a Bottlehead Reduction I'm sure you could easily handle either makers's kits. I enjoyed the Elekit much more due to the easier case build, but both meet your requirements: easy instructions (Bottlehead is so detailed it does everything but tell you when to breathe, Elekit is circuit board stuffing so less detail is required). Other kits like the Bob Latino ST-70 get similar high marks. I had only basic electronics knowledge before I started (Structural Engineer, sorry) and had no problem. I built the Elekit with only basic tools (snipper, needle nose pliers) and a free multimeter from Harbor Freight. I now have nicer tools for the Bottlehead but they really aren't required. Given your background you'll be fine with what you have. Welcome to the dark side.
  4. I just finished the book "12 Seconds of Silence: How a team of inventors, tinkerers, and spies took down a Nazi superweapon", by Jamie Holmes and I have to recommend it to others who are into tube audio. The book focuses on the development of the proximity fuse for anti-aircraft shells in World War II, which used subminiature tubes under what can best be described as challenging conditions: high acceleration loads, the need to reduce microphonics, and how to power the transmitter and receiver in a shell which may sit on a shelf for months before being used. For what it is worth, a brief search this morning led to a number of websites devoted to the topic of subminiature tubes which contradict the information presented by the author - one states the tubes were developed by Raytheon, whereas per the book the development of the tube was performed by a team of scientists under the auspices of the War Department; the production of the tube was performed by three firms including Raytheon but also Crosley and Sylvania. Any tube fanatic out there should check it out as it is quite interesting how a team of top notch scientists and engineers (including James van Allen, of the Van Allen belts) addressed the numerous engineering problems associated with these awesome devices!
  5. I think you found an error on the website. While I'm not employed by Klipsch no do I own the Fives, the industry standard for decades has been to select "phono" if you need to use the internal phono preamp and "line" if the signal is already at line level. Short version is you hooked it up correctly. The reason you get no sound with the selector at Line level is the turntable output is measured at the millivolt level and a Line level output is at the Volt level - around 200 times (ignoring RIAA equalization leading to no bass.)
  6. I have a multibit running off an eitr (from before the unison days...and the mimby still lacks unison to this day) and could tell the difference in a non blind test. Blind? Probably not. I'd go either modi 3+ or the monoprice liquid space dac for the price (I've been shopping as my modi 2 bricked out a few months ago).
  7. I'm not local enough to make an easy run in the next few weeks, but the seller had been selling a set of five Cornwalls over the past week or so. Originally offered as a combined set, then was down to three, and then a few days ago became a single. Interesting that it is listed as Framingham and it seems like the seller is in Worcester?
  8. Late to the party, but for years I resisted using Deoxit because I figured it was all hype. I'd replace volume and tone pots without a second thought. A couple weeks ago I found a Yamaha amp in someone's trash and brought it home to find it had a scratchy pots (bass, treble, loudness, and balance) that would also cut out. All the normal sources (Digikey/Mouser/Soniccraft/Parts-Connextion/Parts-Express) had nothing in stock for the balance pot and I didn't feel like ordering a single pot that had a 20 week lead time for a free amp so I picked up some Deoxit, gave each of the pots a spray, a working, then another quick spray. WOW. Amazed how well that worked. I can't imagine how much money and time I would have saved had I started using it years ago. Glad it worked for you.
  9. I'm late to the party here but a couple more thoughts - while I await an email from a coworker. 1) Good speaker wire lasts forever. I've got a pair of Heresy IIIs that I got four years ago wired up using some 12AWG Oxygen Free Copper wire from Monoprice (I think) that is at least 15 years old. I think it was $27 for a 100' roll back then - the price of copper has certainly gone up - but I'm glad I got it. 2) There used to be a rule of thumb: spend as much on amplification as you did on speakers. Kinda makes sense, but definitely keep your eye out for potential upgrade paths. If you don't think you'll go to 7.1 right away (or ever), consider a better 5.1 model. Some 5.1 models have unpowered outputs for the rear channel that you can later on add a two channel amp, and given that it is the rear channel, a $30 chip amp would do the trick if you ever go that way. 3) Two words: Dual Subwoofers. You don't really need a 5.2 or 7.2 receiver as you can split the signal easily so a X.1 receiver will work. Both my two channel system and my home theater system in a different room use dual subwoofers as it really smooths out the in-room response. 4) If short on cash spend the money on the receiver, front three speakers, and cabling now, and add the rear channels later. There are so many versions of the base and one-level up bookshelf speakers on the market being suggested you'll almost certainly be able to find a pair that matches up well enough - if not on the new market - the used market.
  10. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your sale. These are simply stunning speakers with a high WAF that got favorable reviews and don't come up for sale too often.
  11. Thanks for posting the photos. After some research and soul searching I realized the price was well above my range for the pair all things considered, so much so it wouldn't even be worth the negotiation.
  12. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/779848732572718/ Someone grab these before I do something my wife will regret. Looks like an estate sale so should be negotiable, especially given then finish stain on one.
  13. I run my heresys in a 25' x 18' room (7'-6" ceilings - pretty low) with an 8wpc Elekit TU8200 amp. H3s are in the corners, with the subs just inboard on either side . Paired with two Martin Logan Dynamo 700 subs it will easily become too loud without much effort. Just go for quality amplification, not quantity and you'll be good FWIW, the RB51s are pretty sweet too. I got a pair in my office I use for computer audio.
  14. Back in October 2016 Adorama had a weekend sale of a pair of new H3 in the stock finishes for $999. My wife wasn't too happy about it but I could legitimately say I paid less than a grand for the pair. Only regret was I got non-consecutive serial numbers (even numbered) and the Klipsch badge is on the left for both grills. For the cost savings, though, ain't going to complain.
  15. I seem to recall from my understanding of stereo playback of the vinyl medium that it is labelled incorrectly. My understanding is that one side of the groove is based on the addition of the left + right channel (L+R) and the other side is based on the subtraction of the right channel from the left (L-R).
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