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BadChile

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  1. I broke down sobbing when I got the J&J on Friday. I'm a nearly 50-year old guy who lost a couple neighbors to Covid. Two kids at home. Chickenpox nearly took me out at age two, Whooping Cough nearly got me a couple years after that. I tell my kids they don't know how lucky they are with the progress we've made in society that two diseases that nearly killed me as a toddler are an afterthought now. I told the pharmacist that she made a very real difference in my life and it was the best day of the past 14 months of my life. Yeah, science!
  2. The OP said he had some Lore Reference that didn't pass the WAF. If Lores didn't pass the WAF I'm not sure Klipsch Reference/Reference Premier would...
  3. What about the Lore Reference failed the WAF test, and how do any of the Klipsch speakers address this? Just curious....
  4. There are two possible options both of which operate in a similar manner but require different approaches. 1) Select a subwoofer with speaker-level throughputs. This will have a pair of speaker level inputs and another pair of speaker level outputs. Wire amp->sub->speakers. Done. 2) If the subwoofer you select does not have speaker-level throughputs obtain what is called a "speaker to line level convertor". These are readily available through most on-line sources named after South American rivers, or if handy, you can make you own. This gets wired in parallel off the speaker taps (one set of wires to the speakers, the other to the convertor). To be honest I don't believe any Klipsch subwoofers currently on the market have built in speaker-to-line level convertors so if you're wanting to stick with Klipsch you're going down the second road. Which works perfectly fine in my opinion as I'm a similar position in that I'm running two subs off the speaker taps using a speaker-to-line level convertor that cost all of about $10 US. The effect on the audio signal to the speakers is negligible in both cases as the power draw of the convertor is negligible - I didn't notice a change in the least when I wired the subs in parallel, and it should be the case in your scenario as well as the convertor impedance is so low it simply draws an infinitesimally small amount of power compared to the Heresys. Just be aware in doing so you've now connected two powered devices with speaker wire so you may end up with hum due to ground loops/different ground plans/lots of electrical stuff that frankly I never bothered to understand - I use wireless subwoofers which eliminate the electrical connectivity. Good luck and enjoy. And oh yeah: always go dual subwoofers.
  5. There have been some pretty reasonable deals in the Boston area lately. Wish I had room for these.... A few weeks ago there was a pair of Quartets for $250 I stupidly passed on....because I'm an idiot.
  6. https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/ele/d/allston-decware-mini-torri/7287916558.html Not Affiliated - if I weren't deep into the DIY game I'd grab this in a heartbeat at this price.
  7. My brother in law (did years in the minors up through AAA but never got the call) had the surgery after he got out of professional game. He'd been pitching recreationally in beer leagues when the pain got to be too much so he had the surgery in his mid-40s about 7 years ago. After a year out of the game he's back in the beer leagues claiming that he's got more control now than he did before the surgery even into his 50s.
  8. What Onkyo receiver do you have? There may be an effects send/receive, tape out, or second zone output you can use as a pre-amp out in lieu of using the headphone out, which as others have said, has the likely disadvantage of being driven by a low-cost headphone amp chip.
  9. I think there are a bunch of choices these days - while there may not be as many kits as there were in the 1960s (I'll admit I wasn't yet around) - between these kits, Elekit, Bottlehead, the numerous Dynakit clones out there (Bob Latino plus others), the unnamed board mounted kits from TubeDepot, Transcendent Sound, ANK Kits, the dozens of low-cost options from China on Ebay and Amazon, and countless others I likely missed. I do like the manuals for these kits includes electronic theory as opposed to simply "solder this here", but one could hope that this concept spreads to other players in the market, but based upon what I've seen, there is a solid number of choices out there across the complexity, cost, power, and appearance spectrum.
  10. Nice listing - quick question - did you sell a pair of KG4s with a matching KV2 center a few years back that you had finished in grey and a similar linen speaker cloth? EDIT: Noticed the address on the listing and I'm pretty sure it was you. If so, I can vouch for the seller. Good person, great speakers, and a true Klipsch fan.
  11. I too have a Mani, only recently replaced in the system by a Bottlehead Reduction + Integration at four times the cost + labor hours to build, running into an Elekit TU-8200 (tubes). I really liked the Mani for what is was and considered it "endgame" but as usual I got a case of upgraditus. For the OP - I have it on the shelf if you're interested in purchasing used. I ran the Ortofon 2M Red off a U-Turn Orbit for about 18 months and it paired well before I switched to the Nagaoka MP-110.
  12. Nice. Having built a reduction, post here if you have issues. Heads up that the voltage check on terminals 44 and 45 is wonky: measuring DC you should read 0 Volts, but there is AC on those terminals so your meter might spit out a reading (mine reads 75V). One other thing is that a high resistance, say over 1 MOhm is as good as open. Good luck. Other than the case I really enjoyed my build and it worked great right off the bat.
  13. Having built an Elekit TU-8200 and a Bottlehead Reduction I'm sure you could easily handle either makers's kits. I enjoyed the Elekit much more due to the easier case build, but both meet your requirements: easy instructions (Bottlehead is so detailed it does everything but tell you when to breathe, Elekit is circuit board stuffing so less detail is required). Other kits like the Bob Latino ST-70 get similar high marks. I had only basic electronics knowledge before I started (Structural Engineer, sorry) and had no problem. I built the Elekit with only basic tools (snipper, needle nose pliers) and a free multimeter from Harbor Freight. I now have nicer tools for the Bottlehead but they really aren't required. Given your background you'll be fine with what you have. Welcome to the dark side.
  14. I just finished the book "12 Seconds of Silence: How a team of inventors, tinkerers, and spies took down a Nazi superweapon", by Jamie Holmes and I have to recommend it to others who are into tube audio. The book focuses on the development of the proximity fuse for anti-aircraft shells in World War II, which used subminiature tubes under what can best be described as challenging conditions: high acceleration loads, the need to reduce microphonics, and how to power the transmitter and receiver in a shell which may sit on a shelf for months before being used. For what it is worth, a brief search this morning led to a number of websites devoted to the topic of subminiature tubes which contradict the information presented by the author - one states the tubes were developed by Raytheon, whereas per the book the development of the tube was performed by a team of scientists under the auspices of the War Department; the production of the tube was performed by three firms including Raytheon but also Crosley and Sylvania. Any tube fanatic out there should check it out as it is quite interesting how a team of top notch scientists and engineers (including James van Allen, of the Van Allen belts) addressed the numerous engineering problems associated with these awesome devices!
  15. I think you found an error on the website. While I'm not employed by Klipsch no do I own the Fives, the industry standard for decades has been to select "phono" if you need to use the internal phono preamp and "line" if the signal is already at line level. Short version is you hooked it up correctly. The reason you get no sound with the selector at Line level is the turntable output is measured at the millivolt level and a Line level output is at the Volt level - around 200 times (ignoring RIAA equalization leading to no bass.)
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