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BadChile

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Everything posted by BadChile

  1. Anything smaller will be the same size once placed on a stand, so why change.
  2. Go Aggies!!! I previously posted somewhere on this forum that I was at NMSU when the Khorns were first installed in the redone EE lecture hall in the summer of 1992. Shortly thereafter I learned I enjoyed structural engineering more (fewer integrals) but fondly recall how my digital logic professor loved cranking up the Khorns my last semester as an EE. He particularly enjoyed cranking them the last 5 minutes of an exam.
  3. I'm pretty old school so I don't have a network streamer, but my main audio system plays digital files (FLAC or WAV)from a small, fanless PC hidden in a shelf. I have the USB of the PC connected to an outboard DAC, which then outputs the audio signal to whatever amplifier I'm using/preferring that week. As I built this system about six years ago but wanted it as invisible as possible so I hooked up an old point of sale touchscreen 15" monitor to the PC I got for about $50. Walk up to the system, swipe on the monitor, make sure Clementine is launched, pick your music and play. I can also control playlists from the Clementine app off my phone. No keyboard or mouse required for either method of control. One of these days I'm going to network the whole thing as I currently have five separate audio systems in five different rooms.
  4. Reading this made me crack up. As a Structural Engineer I usually bring the mindset that if you assign the same task to 10 engineers, you'll get 15 different designs and every single person loudly proclaiming the other nine people in the room are not only dangerous and wrong, but are absolute morons and unafraid to point it. And reading that website linked above totally reminded me of that fact.
  5. While not nearly as technically savvy as @captainbeefheart, this was illustrated in very plain terms to me once I got my UMIK-1 and REW. Believing that a baseline understanding of the acoustics of my room and listening preferences is crucial in improving my listening experience with the tools offered in REW I set up the system and listened to my favorite songs at both moderate (kids are home) and the loudest that I listen when no one else is home and it is getting late in the evening. I found that all these years my maximum continuous listening level was in the vicinity of 88dBA on a slow response in REW (and obviously, peaks above that). During normal kids are home listening it was significantly less. Considering I use Heresy's in a low ceiling room, wall (not corner) loaded, with subs, sitting about 10' away - per one of the SPL calculators online I'm using less than 0.25 of a Watt continuous when I have it cranked, going on up to 2 Watts to hit peaks at 98dBA. Sure, I can crank it up the unhealthy levels in excess of 100dBA - and have done so while wearing hearing protection - but even at 88dBA with no protection it is just physically exhausting after about half an hour. For Reference, the NIOSH maximum exposure at 88dBA is 4 hours, so I made a mental note about that observation [for reference, OSHA allows greater than 8 hours at 88dBA]. Like it was said above - take your hearing seriously.
  6. Thanks all for the help. After tracing the circuit, checking notes, and pulling all transistors, caps, and desoldering one leg each of diodes and resistors to measure each I have reason to believe I stupidly swapped the positive and negative supplies on the left channel (which still measures high at the PS). Regardless of if that is what I did I fried D402, D406, and R442. Replaced those three parts and sure enough, she's back up and running better than new.
  7. This. Lock the thread. If you're happy with your audio setup it will be cheaper in the long run to get a different entertainment center.
  8. Amp goes into thermal protect as you wired them in parallel. Amp sees an effective speaker load less than 3 Ohms. Too much current, too much heat, amp shut off so amp don't go up in flames. Get an amp capable of driving three pairs of speakers at once. Say the Dayton Audio Multi Zone amp. Or just get three amps and split the signal using a preamp or just an RCA splitter. Sorry CWelsh, didn't mean to respond to you...but too lazy to copy paste edit....yah, OP probably won't read this anyway since the previous topic was ignored.
  9. I have a pair of RB-51 II bookshelves in the basement I picked up used, without grills. A few years ago one of my kids was really into "pecking" at stuff with a tool, whatever metallic was around like a set of keys, a fingernail clipper. I don't know, he was 9 or 10 years old, he'd keep doing it even though I kept giving him old boards to beat the crap out of, not sure what the fascination was...but as part of this fascination he had to go and artificially age one of two bar stools upstairs, one of the two *different* bar stools downstairs, the dining room table, his bed frame.....and one of the woofers of the RB-51 II speakers. 🤢 Haven't noticed a difference in sound, but I will admit at that time I decided those were the speakers he got to take with him when he leaves the house. Which is a shame as unknown to him he was in line for the Heresys.
  10. That was almost cruel posting that the day after the 15% off Cyber Monday sale ended. 🙂 I had been looking at one and decided I didn't need another project.
  11. Thanks for the input - I agree, definitely a broken path to earth/ground, and perhaps another clue is the +B1 side remained energized overnight but the -B1 discharged. I figured the difference in voltages was due to the twin power supply and never once considered the broken circuit issue, so thank you. To date I've been going through this in a poorly thought out and haphazard manner as my mini-lug grabber hooks were repurposed (in all fairness, I did the same to my dad when I was a kid, so I'm happy to see my kids take on that curiosity and 'borrow' my tools) so I was only checking where my alligator clips would fit, but I procured more mini-lug grabbers today and am planning on tracing the entire circuit over the next few weeks to identify the break point. I'll post those results when I get them. My own fault, this one. Normally I do one thing at a time but let my ego get ahead and I did a bunch of parts all at once. Lesson learned, but successful engineering doesn't teach many lessons. This one did - my normal methodical workflow had purpose. Thanks for the offer of help - I'm going to keep at this, see what I can learn. Might be a few months between everything else in life! I'll keep you posted.
  12. A confession: I took something working and broke it. Having picked up a Harman / Kardon 430 last week I decided to "fix it" as there was a bulging capacitor in one circuit in the amp. In doing so, I got myself flummoxed and after two nights of poking around with a multimeter I'm lost. I had previously changed capacitors in the power supply and verified the amp was working. I've done the full switching of input cables, output cables, etc. and have isolated that the Right Channel works/measures fine, the left channel is not. The +/- B2 on the right channel is right at the specified +/- 28.5 V, the left channel (+/- B1) is at 30.3V; this is within stated tolerance of 28.5V +/- 15%. 1) The Left channel is not discharging after power down / shut down - zappy zappy happens well after shutdown, whereas the Right channel discharges relatively quickly. 2) The Voltage Drop for measuring idle current - which should be around 25mV and is that on the Right Channel - measures at 0mV across resistor R428. 3) When initially rebuilt I followed the parts list / marckings on the board and used a 470uF capacitor for C408, however, the value installed was 1000uF. I have since replaced it with a 1000uF cap; and I suspect this is unrelated to the problem as the right channel is fine. 4) All fuses measure zero resistance. 5) Transistors measure so far out of spec I ended up replacing with KSC1845FTA transistors. I have verified the pinout as being correct. 6) Removed transistors measured below voltage drop with multimeter - see photo, attached, also photo of schematic. So...techs of the Klipsch forum, before I go through swapping parts from left to right, swapping out more transistors, etc ...any ideas? Thanks in advance. If I get this fixed anyone in the Boston Metro area is welcome to check out the amp as I eat crow.
  13. I'm tempted to suggest bi-amping. Go with something with authority for the woofer and keep the tubes for the squawker and tweeter. Although lately I'm running a Harman / Kardon 430 on its own with H3s, but I have done the biamping thing with SS / tubes in the past (and could do it today if warranted). FWIW I too am in the Boston metro area.
  14. So...my father-in-law reclaimed ownership of his Sansui TR-707 I restored so I was left with a desire to scratch my solid state itch. A couple days of patient browsing led to a two month old listing for a Harman Kardon 430 at a dusty record store I'd never heard a 30 minute drive away. Yeah, sure it had some issues but I figured a drive was in order and sure enough, it was still on the shelf. Being the day before Thanksgiving I didn't even negotiate but still got a discount. Opening her up, few spritz of DeOxIt fixed all the sticky buttons and scratchy pots, but a few caps showed the unmistakable signs of age. Replacing the puffy caps with some Elna Simlic IIs I had sitting around in the proper values (side note: I'm now that guy - "let me check the parts bin, I think I have what I need, oh, look at that!") and plugging her in....wow. Been playing now for a couple days with the Heresy IIIs and I'm in love. My poor Elekit TU-8200 sits forlorn like a spurned lover as the middle-aged solid state beauty sings with the voice of a Siren. Dare I say my father-in-law can keep his Sansui - the H/K has it beat in every metric. Planning on replacing a few more caps and the transistors, but to be honest that is fixing problems that aren't there (yet). Obligatory photo below because I can't get enough of this glow...
  15. Just came here to post this, seems like he knows his stuff. What's he changing to that he is moving the Chorus?
  16. Cool, and fortunately not. I was worried it would be Bonkers Fun House in Danvers (ugh....that place!)
  17. I just want to know what Family Fun Center....curious if I've heard these in the flesh before....care to disclose?
  18. Last update: replaced the RCA jacks on the rear (required drilling to make openings larger), replaced banana jacks with different ones that fit better (and moved the old ones to my KG4s), finished the recap on both the phono pre and the main preamp. Replaced the knobs wife found the missing knob in the basement (!) I just haven't updated the photo, and the dried out but leave a mark everywhere rubber feet. Burned in the system overnight, and listening now through the KG4s, this amp loves these speakers. Doesn't match the midrange of the Heresy's but the Sansui pairs so well that I'd be very happy with this system if I could keep it. My father in law is over the moon with joy right now and is picking up the old Sansui in Thursday. But eff me, the vintage solid state bug has bit me hard. Found an Harman Kardon 430 needing work locally so am planning on picking up a new project...thanks for reading!
  19. With regards to the first - that is well-beyond my knowledge/skill set - so I have no idea on where to even start there. For the second I haven't run the KG4s on the TU-8200 in a few years. I'll have to give it a shot. With the Heresy IIIs I usually run in Ultralinear but occasionally use the Triode mode. I don't think I've ever even tried Pentode mode. Any particular mode preferences that you have?
  20. Many of my colleagues know I have a nasty habit of finding free or heavily discounted speakers usually which I fix up (surrounds / crossover rehab / add banana plugs / etc.) And either give away or keep. So it didn't surprise me when a couple weeks ago a colleague mentioned he found a pair of speakers in his garage left behind by an ex-girlfriend seven years ago. Once he sent a photo it took me a few minutes to ID as a pair of KG2 - no labels, no badges. I had previously talked this colleague into picking up a pair of Heresy IIs in his hometown for cheap, and he's pretty happy with those. But I said I'd recap the crossovers for free and proceeded to order parts (can always use parts!) He brought them by on Tuesday evening for me to check out and do the work. Before he unloaded them from the car he listened to my main system (Elekit TU-8200 into Heresy III with subs) and was blown away. Then out came the KG2 pair. These things were dusty as could be but were in good condition, even the dust caps of the passives were non-crushed. Shockingly, they did pretty well in the main system. Highs were on the shrill side, no magical Heritage mid-range, but the bass held its own for the tiny "bookshelf" (don't fool yourself - these are mini-Heresy sized). I liked 'em. Unfortunately, so did my colleague who didn't even leave them for the recap - maybe he was afraid I'd never give them back. I tried to even convince him to stick around so we could do a shoot-out against KG1s and KG4s, but like me when I find free speakers on the side of the road, he was in a hurry to leave before someone else grabbed his toys... Summary: I now have parts for a KG2 recap but no KG2s. Which can only mean one thing: time to hunt down some KG2s!!!!
  21. I'm in the Boston metro area - if you know of anything that needs work and is a low enough price I'd be interested to add to the collection.
  22. I actually haven't tried it yet - I just ran it through Aux section via a Bottlehead Reduction. I think I listened to one side and then switched back to digital files since I'm lazy.
  23. Weekend update: Upon powering up the beast on Saturday morning the pumping was gone so the suspected damaged transistor was only an overheated transistor. Emergency avoided. Worked on the tone control section: this was a tangled mess of layered wires and leads with cloth sleeves protecting the leads - where I could I reused the cloth sleeves to maintain the visual continuity of the amp. As parts of this has paper-in-oil or film caps that were on the last days of their lives, I reworked this area. I had some Amtrans and Dayton Audio caps lying around so tossed those in where needed, otherwise I used some Orange Drops or Cornell Dubliners depending on what was available when I made the parts order. There was a monster 500uF, 400V cap to ground I just tossed in Rubycon cap I ordered for another project in which it didn't fit. At this point I'm holding off until next weekend. I'm hosting a Cub Scout event on Engineering for one of my kids on Sunday and I figure I'll open the amp and show what can be done with old electronics (going to teach kids how to hold a soldering iron, tin wires, solder to a board, etc) and might get some free labor with someone with better eyes than me. Both of my kids (7th and 5th grade) can solder PTP and to a board pretty well so I can always count on their steady hands to do the work even if mom insists on using non-leaded solder for them despite the irony of this amp being all lead. 🙂 Yesterday afternoon I decided that since I liked the bass so much, but the mid- and highs were less than holographic I'd go the biamping route with the Elekit TU-8200 (heavily modified) taking on the non-woofer duty with the Heresys. After about a bazillion missteps involving hook up, running the Sansui in Mono, swapping channels and other confusion, I came away duly impressed. I offered the amp back to the my father-in-law and he is grateful for the repair and has unfortunately accepted it back. I have three more weeks with this amp so while I have yet to find a good parts unit for a reasonable cost I still have time to locate a useful knob, replace the rubber feet, and clean up the insides. In the meantime I'll likely order either the Akitika pre-amp / power amp combo or try to negotiate down on a "needs work / one channel has feedback / broken glass" Pioneer SX-737 currently listed for $100 near me.
  24. I'll add more in the future, identifying what changed and why. One of the two blue caps were the culprit in the non-working channel. Sorry that single photo stinks! I'm sitting in my office listening to a Yamaha A-400 two-channel amp with a rebuilt power supply section and Bowers & Wilkins DM12 speakers (acoustic suspension, similar to the KG1s) and this system has none of the bass weight of the Sansui and KG1s. This 34 pound beast has some serious mojo going on.
  25. As others have said, the powerline wifi booster produces a signal that is not filtered out by the amplifier, and therefore, is amplified and you hear it in the speakers. As for why you don't hear it in your headphones I suspect that the headphone amplifier circuit in whatever device you're plugging the 'phones into has (a) a couple resistors to pad down the circuit, and (b) the DT990 Pro has an impedance of 250 ohms, further padding down the line noise. The noise is there, just not audibly loud enough. As others have said: ditch the powerline wifi booster. Get a mesh system, a plug in range extender (repeater), or fish a hard ethernet line. If audiophiles had their way powerline signal boosters would have a warning on the packaging saying it is going to contribute to noise in your audio system, but alas, we don't.
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