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iaRIVR

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Posts posted by iaRIVR

  1. Anytime someone says to respond to an email in a system that has built in messaging is a huge red flag for me.

     

    On another note, while it may be impossible to make a minivan cool putting some KLF 30s in one might get you close...

     

     

    • Like 3
  2. I'm open on the watts, I had 100 as a ballpark to keep the cost realistic. I think I'm at 24 now with the 430...

     

    Would love to go separates, but I don't have an amp so of course buying both also increases cost. Long term I plan to go that route, so my thought was an integrated with a preout I could use with an amp in the future, and eventually replace with a dedicated preamp. Thanks for the amp suggestions, I will keep an eye out for those.

     

    I am collecting parts to build a Aleph J clone this winter, so waiting and getting a preamp for that is another option. I just don't want to feel rushed to get that done or I'll probably mess it up. There's an RX-1052 on CL I asked about, seems solid and has some features that might be nice.

    • Thanks 1
  3. Looking for a solid integrated on the lower end of the price spectrum. Very interested to try Rotel but open to suggestions. It will be driving a pair of Chorus IIs and a set of full-range speakers (FHXL), so doesn't need to be crazy but I hear the Chorus like a little power. I have an HK430 now and have had a run of bad luck with the last couple of amps I have tried, so ideally something solid and simple (probably not vintage).

    Open to other brands as well, I was interested in Rotel as an example of a brand that has a reputation for good value and I sound I would like to try.

    Would really prefer something with A&B speaker selection so I can switch between the two sets, and a pre-out and phono would be fantastic but not required.

    • Like 1
  4. I had a project debut carbon that was $400. I regret selling it. Gets great reviews, dead simple, and felt surprisingly nice.

     

    I went to a TD160 which I love, but man have I spent so many hours tweaking that thing. You can find better value in vintage gear, but if you have one thing go wrong that needs repairs you are likely to spend a lot more than you expected and feel frustrated. Plus, a 100% functional 'budget' table is probably better than a 90% functional vintage table. More or less.

     

    They also make an esprit model with a speed selector and acrylic platter that are nice upgrades. That's a pretty decent setup. Add a 2M blue stylus if you're feeling crazy.

    • Thanks 1
  5. Interesting question, I would assume labor is by far the highest component in the cost of the speaker. Did a quick home depot check:

     

    Particle board - 20

    MDF 26

    Plywood 40


    Does make me curious how much they pinched pennies on materials and components, as I wouldn't think they are high enough volume to see huge gains. Guessing they tested mdf, plywood, and a dozen other things and found making the front 1" plywood was necessary, and mdf was good enough for the rest.

    • Like 1
  6. Restoring a pair of Chorus IIs and have a couple questions before I get too far. The first one I really don't know, the rest are subjective.

     

    1) Where did the foam go when it left the factory? I thought the consensus for the Forte II was above the woofer (top 2/3 or so). There's foam in there now but a mix of two types, one goes about to the midway point on the woofers, on the other one side goes all the way down on one side and stops above the woofer on the other.  Where should the foam go? or does it matter that much?

     

     

    Picture1.thumb.jpg.2628d38404485cf694618818393ef6aa.jpgPicture2.jpg

     

    And... subjective ones. These have all been covered before so not expecting answers but if you have thoughts either way please share.Trying to balance doing as much now while I have them apart without going crazy, they sound pretty great as is and no reason to mess with a good thing.

     

    2) Bracing. Considering one between the woofer and the mid, and maybe two up the sides. Straight across, baltic birch ply or solid maple. Seems most say not necessary.

    3) Damping. I have a bunch of Kilmat 80 mil. Could line cabinet sides under the foam, or horns and woofer/passive. Also seems not necessary. But I have it already.

    4) LMAHL tweeter - very on the fence about doing this now while it will be easy to install, or spending some time with the stock tweeter (w/ crites ti) first.

     

    Leaning towards less, but again don't really want to feel the need to take these apart again.

     

  7. As I note I did not use a pre-stain conditioner on a pair of baltic birch speakers and it came out too blotchy. I had it, and used it in testing, but my sample looked great without so I decided to skip. Unfortunately the sides came out fine, but the front looks awful.

     

    Would highly recommend a pre-stain, I don't think it can hurt and would have saved me having to refinish them.

    • Like 2
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