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All good thoughts, appreciate them. Each step up feels like a relatively small jump, but going from reveneering to building a cornscala is a big leap. I do the same with house projects and end up ripping out walls. But I know a lot more about that. I'll start with the stands and continue to mod the Fortes. I will also keep my eye out for some 12-15" woofers to start playing with the DH1As, great call @Bubo to mock something up first. @Deang - what speakers are you thinking? I've clearly got bigger eyes than my wallet...

I have them up on two post stands now, for me getting them up was a huge improvement. Well, maybe not "huge" but worth it. I read a quote from Mr. Klipsch about not having a void below the speaker, which is why I was going to make the stand as solid as possible. Another thought I had was to take the mid and tweeter out of the cabinet, seal and brace it to maintain the same volume, and then add a second box above for the mid and tweeter. I'd have to reveneer, but it would keep the woofer and passive at the original height while elevating the mid and tweeter as much as I like. Anyone seen anything like that?

Still trying to plan my speaker project and need some Klipsch brainpower. Just looking for direction not a how-to yet. I’ve been planning to do some work to my Forte IIs - reworking the crossovers, building new stands, and reveneering in cherry. I like to tinker and build so this mostly for fun. Recently picked up a pair of EV DH1A’s with HP940 horns which have me thinking... Background- my room is 18x11, and due to space my setup on the short wall and speakers about 6’ apart. I would like to get more punch in the bass and bring the sound out into the room as most of the seating positions are not ideal for listening. Another bonus would be to have the speakers against the wall. For bass I’d take clarity over boom, it’s not bad as is. Budget of around $500-$800 over the long term. Options so far: Upgrade Forte IIs. Build solid approx 10” stands, reveneer, maybe Ti mids, crossover component upgrades. Already done Crites caps and Ti tweeters. Build a 10” box to mount above the original cabinet for the tweeter and mid like a Khorn/LaScalla. Keeps the woofer and passive in the original cabinet, closer to the floor like the original design (better bass?) and brings the mid and tweeter to ear height. Dampen and brace the woofer cabinet and reveneer the whole thing to make one taller forte. Same as above but build entirely new cabinets and relocate passive. Front? Side? This would allow speakers to go against the wall. I’m intrigued by this but clearly Klipsch put the passives in the back for a reason. Similar to the KG3 with the passive and woofer stacked in the front. Use the Forte components as a bass bin to build a 3-way with DH1As. New crossover using forte parts where possible. Build new cabinets so the Fortes could be returned to stock. This would be the cheapest way to incorporate the DH1As. Entirely new cabinet. Buy woofers ($300 from crites) and make a ‘cornscala’ with the DH1As. Lots of plans for cornwall box, this seems to be a proven design. Use Forte tweeters or buy crites. Most expensive when you include a new crossover. New cabinet. The first one is clearly the most practical, any of the others worth seriously considering? If the DH1As are not a significant improvement over the stock Forte II mid then scrap 4 & 5. Thanks for any advice- I always learn a ton when I post weird ideas.

Making sense now, I might start with the mid and tweeter networks, or maybe just tweeter first. That article is crazy, I wonder how long it took to test all those caps.

Thanks all- I'll take a look at Arizona blue. I'm rebuilding because I want to spread everything out on new boards. I was planning to just do caps for now and leave the rest of the parts stock but will look at options. I'm trying to figure out a good price point, I'd like to do this eventually and if the answer is I should budget $300+ that's good to know. @PrestonTom - Appreciate the advice and noted 👍 Edit- Arizona blue are $30/ea for the 1.5 and 2uf. That would be $200 + the 100/10uf. I haven't found larger caps other than Mundorf classic and Jantzen.

I missed them too... You gotta be so quick.

Well aren't I a sucker then. I got excited by the Quartets that were here for $200. I'll delete this.

I've got Forte IIs with the sonicaps from Crites and planning to move the crossovers to new boards as I did a pretty hack job fitting everything into the original PCB. I priced out 4 different packages- how would the Jantzen Cross Cap or Mundorf Mcap Classic work? Or should I wait until I can afford something like Mcap Supreme? Here are the options: My plan is to keep these, and I'm having a hard time understanding the crossover upgrade options. On the one hand you have SET12 going all out, and many people rocking the Sonicaps and loving it.

Saw these yesterday and they were up for all of 3 hours. I caught it about 15 minutes after they went up and never heard anything back. No idea if someone grabbed them or they got 500 emails and pulled them down. 15 minutes!! I was watching my phone all afternoon and picturing them in my living room... I would bet $20 they're back up soon at $1000.

Does anybody know how these typically work? Is there a bid system or do they put a price on each item and first person gets it? I could see a lot of people showing up for those.

I see that now, I think I'll skip the spikes and focus on decoupling. So many opinions... having a very productive Friday reading up on stands. Thanks!

Planning on doing some work on my Forte IIs and making new speaker stands is on the list. Right now I have a very simple setup with a pair of heavy old 2x4s, vertical, between a double layer of mdf on the bottom and a single layer on the top. Probably not important but they get the speakers up about 8-10" and work okay. One key is they sit on suspended wood floors. My current plan is to build a very solid box with a double layer of mdf (1.5" thick) filled with sand. I would put thin rubber furniture feet under the box, then spikes under the forte's to couple them to the box. The reason for putting the spikes between the speakers and the box is it seems like a lot of weight on the spikes and floor. I'm open to any suggestions. My goal is to bring the speakers up 8-10", not create a void under the speakers, and make them sound as good as I can. Am I on the right track with either of these designs?

That's a good call too, they fit okay but not great. Adding a little extension to the wires would be all I need.

I should clarify- the info I was looking at was over at AK but I thought it was here to, and I posted here because I would prefer the Klipschophiles advice I'll hold off, not looking to spend money needlessly. Thanks @JohnA I am just starting to learn about crossovers, I have the sonicaps from Crites but they are so crammed onto the original PCB I was planning to build a new crossover and reseal the cabinets and gaskets while I'm at it. If I could incorporate a crossover upgrade, great, but not in any rush to.

Are you saying the stock inductor is fine for the crossovers? Thanks for the link, those are still pretty $$. I actually think I was getting more info over at AK and generally following SET12's process. I'm going to build new crossovers just cause they're all crammed into the stock pcb, I depending on the price I might upgrade one of the circuts(?) like a larger air core inductor and capacitor for the woofer.