henry4841
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Posts posted by henry4841
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7 hours ago, doodlebum said:
I have the same amp with La Scala AL5's, absolutely end game for me.
Welcome
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I have been using the Hammond 125CSE, 125DSE and 125ESe in my more recent builds with total satisfaction. I bought some from this Ebay seller and they came directly from Mouser. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285222340580?hash=item42689387e4:g:vc0AAOSwW2JkLjpa&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4NXz2fZvcy54bK1PuIJZJAY5i%2Fdo8zcr21CMyaq9rePl2oNkyblrA4UWYHY3DsVRjgLygDiQVi3uzJ%2FUJgAJlIhoUjAxBCi0C8cr4BOUpY2cHPAarmWXWCxmhwR7V6%2BH49BrF8hC8AIefKWrxKU3pQpXCEDfc04YYAHuQQ30fQD17mZ4P5rmlaOthj69jgCdqqlUTMOMIcLeniIY6dy28EYpVt4vso9jsKcdIGIqqm84MX4iot8sk6CEa3pFUp1E0sI%2Fj%2FDRZv8ZtLQc9eiepfKoCPlHqCX5dtFAWGTY3qYV|tkp%3ABFBMru7_0tti
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Another convert to SET 300B. I never doubted enough power with our speakers. Five watts are plenty. The EL84 is a remarkable tube for it's size but it is not a 300B. Single ended is my choice of amplification.
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A very nice linestage I have built and own myself though not as nice looking as this one. For those that do not know Wayne Colburn designs the linestages, sometimes inaccurately called preamps, for Passlabs. My understanding is a preamp has a phono stage. Check the prices for a linestage at Passlabs and you will be shocked at the prices his designs demand.
No affiliation with seller or his ability for diy but from all appearances and choice of parts it looks well made. Excellent design with all the circuitry one desires in a linestage. Not a cheap build for a diy'er by the way.
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Anyone know the inductance of the T2A? Perhaps someone can measure and post the number. You will need a decent inductance meter.
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17 hours ago, lakedmb said:
Do you all have any recommendations for top service centers for vintages amps! I have an HK 730 that need a full service tune up.
thanks.
The forum has a new member who you may want to consider.
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/profile/85467-scott-grammer/
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7 hours ago, SchuBagga said:
I’m proud to say I have his 300 B inspire amp with western electric and I have a preamp 2030 on the way. I play them out of Denafrips Ares ii.
I agree with my sessions of capital W capital O capital W. The speakers are Cornwall Heritage iv. 102 db.
Western Electric 300B provide enough base so I can sell my SVS micro 3000. Tight welcomed bass… finally!
Those WE 300B tubes NOS "new old stock" or new production?
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Since you did not say what kind of speakers you have I am going to assume Klipsch. On my LaScala's I use a 1 amp quick blow which is readily available on Amazon among other sources. A 1.25 amp fuse is a specialty fuse that can be hard to find and over priced. I believe you are correct that Klipsch did recommend a 1.25amp fuse in their instructions when I bought my speakers but I have never had a problem blowing a 1 amp fast blow myself. Works fine. I would not operate my speakers without having them fused. Fuses are much cheaper than drivers or bass speakers.
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1 minute ago, Dr Morbius said:
I don’t know of anyone who’s done a cap change on speakers that new, Heresy series lV you say? The original caps are hard to beat and have many years left on them. Anybody disagree with me? Inquiring minds, you know.
I agree with you. Why try and fix something that is not broke.
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Smoke is never a good thing. When fixed fuse those speakers.
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13 hours ago, Deang said:
^This.
Welcome to the forum Scott.
Hey Dean, you have been using the new approved Klipsch capacitors in your builds for a few months now but I have not seen you post your impression of them sonically compared to some of the other capacitors you liked in the past. Have you had a chance to listen to a crossover or two with the new caps in your LaScala's? Detailed review would be an asset to the forum.
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Not to give the wrong impression, I am not against replacing the capacitors in our old crossovers. Techs recap old electronic products to ensure the customer gets decades more use out of their equipment. The same applies to our speakers. Drivers and horns along with those quality woofers Klipsch uses will last longer than most owners. But if like the sound you are now hearing I still say leave them alone. But your speakers can and will sound different replacing the capacitors, perhaps brighter and more lively which may or maybe not be a good thing. I would be sure to get the old capacitors back from Dean just in case. When working for a living I never threw the old part away until I was satisfied with the result.
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12 hours ago, Scott Grammer said:
OK, so while I have been working in audio electronics for a while (since 1977), I am the new guy here, and I understand my place as such. So I definitely would not like there to be a "capacitor war" on my account.
That said, I believe there's a lot more to cap replacement in crossovers than "is the old cap really bad." Changing from bipolar electrolytics to film caps can change the sound of a speaker, and not necessarily for the better. Sometimes, a crossover designer will voice a speaker with a certain kind of caps (and inductors, as well) that have maybe a bit more than the minimum ESR (or DCR in the case of inductors). Replacing these with "better" components can change the sound of a speaker considerably. I have a pair of smaller Advents on my main workbench as test speakers, and a couple of years ago I recapped the crossovers (it was necessary, the caps were seriously leaky) and I replaced the bipolar electrolytics with thumb-sized Nichicon film caps. This got rid of the excessive midrange reaching the fried egg tweeters (which is why I checked out the crossovers in the first place), but the VERY low ESR of the Nichicons made the top end brighter than normal. I've gotten kind of used to it, but at first it was bothersome. I may still add some 1 ohm resistors in series with the tweets to tame them down. That is, if I ever have time to fool with it....
The Cornwalls I have include what I believe to be the original oil caps. They tested well, and they're not physically leaking oil (and yes, you DEFINITELY can smell it when that happens), so I don't plan on replacing them any time soon. I don't think they're the root of the problem. I will be replacing the horn gaskets soon with some supplied by a friend who used to build PA speakers, and we'll see what that does. I just have to get them - and some time - first.
Hey Scott, did you know that the late Roger Modjeski said at the Burning Amp Festival almost a decade ago said that sonically he sees nothing wrong with an electrolytic capacitor. He also said if it were not for the tiny amount of leakage all electrolytic caps have he would have not problem using one for a coupling cap in a tube amp. Shocked me when I first heard him say that but at one time big electrolytics were used on the output of many amps and receivers. Nelson Pass still has projects that use a big, talking 10Kuf, on the output of the power transistors blocking DC getting to the speakers. Changed my attitude towards electrolytics in the audio path.
What I have found restoring and recapping many old receivers from the past is heat is the enemy of capacitors. I always make it a point to check every capacitor I take out recapping and most test within tolerance and still work fine. The problem ones are always on the board that are upside down inside the amp or receiver trapping heat. They are almost always bad. Naturally there is always a failure of any component in an electronic device including capacitors sometime.
Just a note on why products from Passlabs have capacitors that last for decades. IMHO that is. Companies like Nelson's use quality caps rated well above what they will ever see as far as voltage or watts never stressing them. That and keeping the inside of the product as cool as possible also contributes to long life. Very little average current is passing through a Klipsch speaker crossover. On an average of only a few watts at most. Most are out in the open where heat is not a big problem as well. Other than leaking oil most are not what a tech would call bad and will still function fine.
One thing for sure though, changing capacitors will give you a different sound. Most say their speakers treble is brighter after doing so. Klipsch is now offering polyester capacitors for those desiring new capacitors with J&M and Dean selling and replacing them. For Klipsch crossover replacement or recapping Dean is the man to see.
Getting back to what you perceive as a problem it is hard to believe there is something wrong with your drivers or horns along with your crossover capacitors testing OK. That is the reason I say your room or the amplifier you are driving them with could possible be the problem. Many times I have thought I had a problem during a test when it turned out to be my method of testing was not correct. Just saying. Do you still think the problem is in the speaker itself? You may want to throw some new film caps in just to see. Like me you probably have some in stock. Would not take must time and you never know. We cannot test everything that the ear hears.
I am really happy to see another electronic guy on this forum. Look forward to learning from you and sharing our experiences. At one time I did make a living with electronics but not in the audio field. Except for a short time repairing car radios early in my 20's. Electronics now is just a hobby to pass some time doing something constructive in my old age, 74.
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For any new member or lurker that does not know Dean is Klipsch's authorized dealer for new crossovers and the capacitors the engineers at Klipsch deemed the best sounding for replacement for those that desire to do so. Quality work and fair pricing.
I would trust him with my money which says a lot in my book.
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1 hour ago, Deang said:
A 50 year old motor run that is sweating oil should be replaced. Doesn’t matter how it measures. You don’t have to see it, you can smell it. Also, since when is a 50 year old motor run an example of a “modern day film cap”?
There is a good ohm difference between the oil cans in series versus new axial wound dry polyesters. It’s audible. Well, unless you’ve lost a good deal of your high frequency hearing.
When I was referring to modern film cap I meant the sealed ones instead of the old wax capacitor one sees in really old equipment. Nelson Pass made a comment on a technical forum that he recently tested the capacitors in one of his 40 year old amplifiers and they all tested fine. And the majority are electrolytics. Just saying.
Do not mean to step on your toes Dean but as we both know we do have a disagreement on capacitor replacement. I understand your position on this forum as a long time member building and selling crossovers. Just a friendly disagreement and nothing more, I hope. I am just from the old school if it ain't broke do not try and fix it. I certainly do not want this thread to get into another capacitor debate on this forum. They seemed to always end bad. The forum has seen plenty of that over the years.
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A push pull tube amp will get you real close to the number you are looking for. For instance the Dynaco ST-70 or a McIntosh tube amp as examples. The majority of SET amps are in the range of 6 watts give or take a few. My friend of mine who runs a vintage audio shop was skeptical about a 6 watt amplifier having enough power until I hooked it up to his setup with a few speakers to demonstrate. Passed with flying colors as far as enough volume.
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2 hours ago, Scott Grammer said:
Thanks for the kind words.
No thanks necessary, just stating the truth. I visited you website and if everything true there you have been doing it a long time. Anyone with a education in electronics understands that modern film caps rarely if ever need replacing.
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The late Roger Modjeski played with those transmitting tubes building audio amps with them but no easy task. He talked about it in one of his presentations at the Burning Amp Festival years ago. I believe it was a SET amplifier and I am sure it made plenty of power. The heat will be tremendous though in a home environment if you can find someone with Rogers talent to build it. You will be dealing with extremely high voltages. In theory I suppose it could be built but not many could do it. Anyways if attainable it would way more power than we would ever need with our speakers.
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Too loud of a sound will damage hearing with time. Just use common sense when listening to music. If grown and understand the fact that loud music will with time damage hearing I am not going to be a loud music cop. It's your ears not mine.
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Hey guys, Scott is a tech who makes a living in electronics and understands capacitors better than me and probably most on this forum. My thoughts are a room problem peaking the response and has nothing to do with film caps that rarely fail in a X-over network.
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Others have answered your question so I just want to say welcome. Bunch of nice guys on this forum who will go out of their way to help.
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How many of us have had their ears ringing days after attending a concert?
Been there, done that in my younger days. My hearing is still good from all accounts and I am still told my music is too loud but not to the extreme anymore. I can enjoy my music with a good amp with a large soundstage at a much lower volume now. Big sound at a lower volume does work with the right amplifier. Many have never experienced this and have to crank the volume up before they fill the room with their present amplifier.
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Aric Audio 300B amplifier
in 2-Channel Home Audio
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You can show someone on a scope that there listening level with horns never exceeds 1 watt and many will still say they think they need 800 watts. Not worth wasting my time on this forum trying to convince someone otherwise anymore. The KLF30 has a sensitivity rating of 102db after a quick google. That is with just 1 watt. Five watt amplifiers are more than enough with our horns. Bass is better with some SS PP amplifiers but it has nothing to do with their power rating but rather their design. Some designs have better control over the bass speaker.