ummagumma-89

Anyone try this yet? I've been thinking about it for a few months, I have a damaged k-24-k black woofer and non damaged k-24-k greyish woofer sitting in storage. Does anyone remember seeing a post that had the woofers specifications? I assume a guitar cab setup might be pushing them a little too far... Hughes and Kettner 2x12 with one k-24-k and one Celestion Vintage 30 (The china version) 20 Watt Tube H&K Head

Hey Pete, would love to chat for a few minutes about your results. I'm back at the drawing board again after a few months of listening. I am convinced on swapping my daytons for the deltas, but you have peaked my interest once again. I wanted to know about your terminal cup in the back in relation to your port. The flared ports I ordered ended up extending me into the terminal cup AND they stuck out. I gave up and removed the backs!!! My cabs are beat anyway... So far I have 2 boards of MDF (not quite as thick as originals)ports and deciding on terminal cups. Im interested in your cap modification. You and I are the only ones I think who went with the H2's (atleast into some detail with how to go about it). Since my last post, I've also bought a l-pad for the squawker, which is the only thing besides the H2 network that is original. Message me if you have 20 minutes to talk

Yes, my H2's have them too, but not the Tangents. I just thought it was strange

Can confirm one of the heresy IIs i just bought have that exact foam grey sheet. The other speaker had a different woofer and the last guy had thrown it out. When I worked on the original speaker, as soon as I touched the foam, it began to deteriorate and fall apart. Also have tangent 500s and they have the same crossover network (square heresy 2 rectangular plate) and speakers as the HII. The xover literally says heresy 2 on them. Anyway, i got these t500s for a steal and from what I could see have never been opened up. Maybe someone can confirm this, No speaker gasket foam whatsoever between woofers/tweeters and wood itself, 2 of THE EXACT sheets of foam loosely placed on the left and right walls of the cab.

Very happy with the results! Heresy II's ported with the Dayton 310-8's, DE-120 tweeters, stock mids and stock network with fresh sonicaps The insulation idea was an experiment, but am liking the results. I know there will be plenty who will frown on that idea, but its what I had on hand. Cheap egg style foam was used for the upper chamber. 4x4 port was absolutely the right way to go, positioning is very interesting to figure out to say the least. Soooo worth it. I've returned the bass and treble settings on amp and eq to flat. Where you are seated and the positioning of the speakers are critical, although I have had them positioned where no matter where you sit or stand the bass was improved BY FAR. Still tinkering Had to make my own grills and get badges. They won't win any prizes for looks, but they kick *** and can pair with my Tangent 500's Now I plan to move speakers around and couches to see what I get from it Pictures https://ibb.co/R7HNDyK https://ibb.co/wC6JgBC https://ibb.co/q1KvKnm https://ibb.co/CzsFdXN https://ibb.co/1zB45qF https://ibb.co/F5XHC1B https://ibb.co/CnP9503

EDIT: Switched to the 4x4 port. Problem solved, cleaned up the sound by a TON getting rid of the extra inch. What an amazing mod, now the question is, tilted, flat, slightly up off the floor with some custom stands. Last night I had one on a drum stool just to see and the bass was still there. Any higher than that I lost bass. Going to try Dark side of the moon now. Finally everyone is out of the house and I can test them. So something I am noticing with the bass is the deep kick drum sticks out nice, but the bass guitar itself is a bit boomy, and this could be the way I dampened the cab or the port length. (Purposely listening to a modern heavy band Toska just to see) Shortening the port to 4" like you originally recommended could fix this right. Could be a number of things, like not using eggcrate foam in the woofer area. I have cheap thin wish .com in the "upper area" and insulation in woofer area carefully placed in smaller thinner pieces on the walls and left an area open around the port. Its deep, but I find it a little boomy. What do you guys think? Shaving off the extra inch of port? I still have 9 feet of tubing lol. I'll give it a try this week

I was asking some people for help with port size and the company I bought them from said 4"d 5"L. His reasoning was because of the low Fs of .29 I didnt mention I was originally tuning to 39 hz and have absolutely no idea what I am doing. 😄 I know all about page 14, i've been thinking about this particular thread since I bought them. Personally if I had the money, I would want to have tried the deltas. I dont have to boost my lowest eq band nearly as much as before. Dayton 96db sensitivity and Delta 99db. Might have lined up even better. I am extremely pleased

Yes. Finished the other speaker today

Quick update, I needed woofers no matter what, took the plunge with the Dayton 310-8 12s. No network changes, undecided if that is necessary at this point, I am a fan of an eq, the amp I am using has a "boring" bass and treble feature only. This eq only goes to 60 hz and that is the only frequency I boost slightly. Now I want an eq that goes lower as this mod has certainly at the very least got me to 50 hz maybe less (no tools to measure) My internal dampening so far is only thin egg crate style in the "upper chamber" above the woofer and loose insulation carefully placed on the walls in the woofer area, leaving open space by the port. I left the square speaker terminal and squeezed the port between. After fine tuning with the dremel, I have gone into the plastic part of the rear terminal slightly. There is still a small amount of cabinet wall seperating speaker terminal. 4" diameter, 5" length port. Floors are wood in medium sized room, in corners. Only have 1 speaker converted so far for a/b test. Absolutely Blown Away by the difference. For the purists, these things were no prize, mismatched woofers, 4 ohm tweeters from car speakers glued to the horns (replaced with B&C DE-120s, factory squawks), appear to be re painted black, needed to make my own speaker covers and purchased aftermarket badges. Will have full report soon with some pictures. Absolutely incredible bass response now. Soooooo happy that I took the chance and a million thank-yous to Claude and friends for experimenting with this. BLOWN AWAY

Just bought the Daytons. Before I return them I want you guys to check this out. I calculated the port online that I just so happen to have and it is lining up almost identical with everything the daytons have for specs. Maybe the port for the dayton woofers needs to be 3" instead of 4"? Or am I more confused than usual? Port is 3 " diameter 4 inch long Fs and Fb match, a lot of the data is close. Am i missing something here? https://ibb.co/47kHV8Q https://ibb.co/2v89Prb https://ibb.co/L17PBWC https://ibb.co/JpxCkbN Dayton Specs

Absolutely Moray, I had thought of separating the woofer area from the mids and highs with a piece of foam, similar to how the heresy 2 came. I figure it would help divide up the cabinet and produce more pressure to the rad. The best experiment I have had funny enough, was stuffing a bit of insulation behind the door and head speakers in my 95 chevy. Along with my 8 inch vented sub. It originally had polyfil and the fyl was blocking the port. I Replaced the polyfil with insulation and left space for the port, it is night and day 20 times better to my ears. Even the door speakers and head level 4x6's are absolutely amazing now. Never seen the dinky woofers move untill I glued some insulation behind the speaker magnets. They are some jvc gto 4x6's, anyways they sound great now. A great experiment to learn with. Thanks for the screw hole trick too, The tangents are starting to get upset with me being in and out of the speaker cavitys. Great idea

seen that tonight too. I guess I need to ask them what "wet look cone with cloth surrounding" actually means.

Thanks moray, This was how they came from factory. improving this type of system seems complicated, only willing to experiment with dampening and where it should go.

I did man. I STILL haven't heard from them. Klipsch took 2 months or more to get back to me on speaker grills and badges which I have found myself. Called gentech, they gave me a email. Never heard back in a month

Picture of the k-24-k I would like to buy https://ibb.co/BVt423f Anyone who has original k-24-k woofer for heresy II that has the greyish kevlar material, I am looking for you! I have the Tangent-500's, yes they have k-24-k's but they ARE NOT the kevlar type, they are black paper. I've a/b'd them and the kevlar type one sounded much better. Located in Sudbury Ontario Canada