Dave MacKay

I wondered what affect the volume and mass of the braces would have on the sound, but figured that, since it seems to be a frequent modification, it mustn't be too significant. Also, after I finish refurbishing the La Scalas, I plan to build a THTLP subwoofer (see https://billfitzmaurice.info/THT.html) which should provide plenty of low-end bass.

How much foam padding would be appropriate? Does the foam need to be placed anyplace specific, or fastened somehow? Or can it just be left loose? I've heard of people wrapping their squawkers in Dynamat, but hadn't heard of using it on the bass bin. I'd be interested in any experiences people have had.

I'm in the process of refurbishing my new-to-me 1986 La Scalas. I've removed, cleaned and refreshed the tweeters, squawkers, and woofers and have replaced the old AL networks with new Crites AA networks. The cabinets had some damage which I have now (mostly) repaired. My next steps are to strip the existing polyurethane finish and then veneer and finish the cabinets. It has been suggested to me (by @Islander and others, and from searching the forum) that I should consider reinforcing the bass bins on the La Scalas because the cabinet side walls can flex (or vibrate). I'm not sure how big an issue that is, but I figure that, if I'm going to reinforce the cabinets, now is the time to do it. I'm trying to choose between 3 options: Laminate 1/4" Baltic Birch panels to the top, bottom, and sides (but not the front or back) of the cabinet exterior. I'd apply the Baltic Birch panels with TiteBond glue and brads or pins. This has the attraction of providing a clean, new surface for the veneer. However, I'm concerned that such a major alteration might destroy the value of the speakers. Install braces (see photos) between the the doghouse and the sides of the cabinets. For the sake of appearance, I'd likely mount them symmetrically at the mid-point of the bass bin. I would make the braces out of 3/4" Baltic Birch and fasten them with glue and maybe brads (if I can get my air nailer in the tight spaces). This would provide reinforcement without changing the dimensions of the cabinets. Leave things alone. Don't add any reinforcement and leave the cabinets as they are (apart from veneering and refinishing them) I haven't found a shop to re-veneer the cabinets so that I'll likely have to do that myself. I plan to work from large sheets of paper-backed veneer that I'll apply to the cabinets with contact cement. I'd appreciate getting advice, cautions, and opinions from forum members. Hearing from those who've been there/seen that would be particularly helpful. Thank-you.

Just to close off this topic for the benefit of anyone searching this topic in the future ... The tweeter drivers and horns/lenses came back together without issue and seem to be fine. Read the posts referenced in the first reply, don't be fearful of applying a little force, and they'll turn out fine.

I'll reply to my own posting in the hope that what I've learned might help someone searching the forum. The lenses (horns) do come off the driver. After removing the 4 screws, it can be removed. It just takes an uncomfortable amount of force. Take care not to disconnect or break the wiring. With the lens (horn) removed, you'll find a small black gasket and a tiny grill. I removed the little grill but left the gasket in place (but protected it with tape so that it could be re-used) when spray painting the lens/horn. I found these These two articles to be helpful: https://critesspeakers.com/installation-of-the-k-77-t.html https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/187809-wrong-tweeter-or-wrong-speaker/ I haven't re-assembled the tweeters yet.

How did you get the tags off without desroying them? What did you use to stick them back on?

Thanks to both of you for highlighting the need to take precautions when cleaning up the mouse nest.

I'm in the process of refurbishing my new-to-me 1986 Lascalas. I'd like to paint the horns (or are they called lenses?) on the K-77 tweeters to cover up some minor scratches but I can't get just the horn off. When I separate the tweeter, the horn stays attached to a round section that has a diaphragm and is where the wires from the network connect (see photo). I haven't been able to remove the round section from the horn. I haven't applied a lot of force for fear of breaking it. Does the horn come off? If so, how? If the horn doesn't some off, can I just block off the little screen (at the back of the horn when viewed from the front) and paint it, or should I leave the tweeter alone? Thanks for the advice.

I recently bought a pair of 1986 Lascalas and am in the process of sprucing them up. I've removed the network, tweeter, squawker and woofer from one speaker so that I can repair and refinish the cabinet. When I removed the woofer access panel I found that mice had been in the speaker. The mice left droppings inside the cabinet and dirtied the woofer. Luckily, they didn't chew anything. I can clean the cabinet easily enough, but I'd like recommendations on how best to clean the woofer. I'm leery of using a vacuum for fear of tearing the cone. I was planning to use a dry paintbrush, followed by a dry microfibre cloth to wipe the obvious dirt off the woofer cone. However, the cone has some areas of discolouration, I''m guessing from mouse pee. I was thinking I'd attack those areas with a damp cloth. Apart from the dirt, the woofers don't appear to be damaged, so that I'm hoping that a good cleaning will take care of things. I'd like to avoid having to re-cone them. I'd welcome any suggestions on how to clean the woofers.

I recently acquired a pair of 1986 Lascalas. The raw birch cabinets had some damage (chips, delamination, chewed-off corner) that I have mostly repaired. I’m now about to strip the existing polyurethane and refinish them. I’ve spent a lot of time on this site and the web (e.g., Volti site) trying to ascertain how best to proceed. I was thinking about laminating a ¼” Baltic birch panel to the sides, top, and bottom (but not the front or the back) and then applying veneer on the top, bottom, sides and front (but not the back). 1) Will adding the ¼” panels hurt the value of the speakers? If so, I’ll likely not add them. Adding the ¼” panels would increase the rigidity of the cabinets and provide a smooth surface for the veneer. I’ll use Tite-Bond (PVA glue) to laminate the ¼” panels to the cabinets. Although I have some clamps, I’ll rely on weights and some pin nails to hold the panels while the glue dries. 2) I’d welcome any suggestions about better ways to laminate the panels to the cabinets. I’ll be using sheets of paper-backed veneer. I’m concerned about how best to apply the veneer, specifically how to avoid bubbles/poor adhesion when applying it and chip-out/tearing when trimming it. I’ve been thinking of cutting the veneer slightly oversize, gluing it to the cabinet with contact cement, and then using a flush-trim bit in a router to cut it to size. Alternatively, I could glue the veneer to the ¼” panels before installing them and then install the veneered panels (using Tite-Bond, pin nails, and weight) but I’d still have to use the former approach for the front of the cabinets. 3) I’d welcome advice about how best to apply the veneer, especially from those that have “been there and done that”. I’m scouring this site and the web looking for images of Lascalas to help choose a type of veneer and finish for the speakers. 4) I’d appreciate seeing images of Lascalas that might help me choose the veneer and finish for the speakers. 5) What have people done with the exposed end-grain on the cut-outs for the tweeter and sqawker (see photo)? Those curved surfaces would be tricky to veneer so I'm thinking of just painting them a flat or satin black. I have other questions pertaining to how to finish the bins. I’ll post those in another message. Thank-you. Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada

I've been gratified by the responses I've had to my posts asking for information to help me figure out how to repair and refinish my 1986 Lascalas. Several people have suggested adding 1/4" to 1/2" panels to the sides of the cabinets. I'm inclined to proceed with that, and will also put a panel on the top and a piece of panel (as a "lip") on the bottom for cosmetic appearance. That way the speaker will appear to be of uniform thickness on all sides. If suitable panels are available with attractive veneers, great; otherwise I'll veneer them. But I'm unsure of how to proceed with the interior of the speakers (where the doghouse is). There I'd only want to apply thin veneer --- no extra panels. However, I'm puzzling over how to do it since it's not obvious to me how to clamp the veneer when its installed. I don't think the doghouse can be removed, so that the veneer would have to be applied with it in place. What have others done when veneering Lascala bins? I'd really like to benefit from any lessons learned, tips, and/or tricks. Thank-you, Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada

Thank-you. It seems to me that I won't be able to both repair the damage and retain the original finish. That being the case, I'll likely repair the damage and then either apply a veneer or paint the cabinets.

Thank-you both. I'll order in some gasket tape. Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada

The bottom panels (woofer access panel) on my 1986 La Scalas need some repair because some plys have started to delaminate, perhaps from being exposed to damp. My plan is to remove the panel and either re-glue the plys or replace the panel with a new piece of 3/4" Baltic Birch. There is a gooey substance on the inside of that panel where it fastens to the bottom of the cabinet.I imagine the substance is an acoustic sealant, not an adhesive. What is the recommended sealant to use when replacing the panel? A caulking-like acoustic sealant, a foam gasket tape, or something else? Thank-you, Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada

I've just acquired a pair of 1986 La Scala speakers. Unfortunately, the cabinets have some damage (see photo) and will need to be repaired and refinished. I'm trying to decide if the cabinets can be repaired and refinished well enough to satisfy my wife's discerning eye, or if I should re-veneer them (likely with 1/4" panels). I'd like to maintain the "as new" look of the speakers. The label tells me that the cabinets were finished in Birch, Raw. There is currently some sort of clear finish (albeit yellowed by age) on the speakers, but I suspect it may have been applied by the previous owner (you can see some of the finish on the network, just to the left and underneath "klipsch"). Was any finish applied to the "Birch, Raw" cabinets by the factory? What was it? A clear lacquer? I've searched the forums to see if this question has already been answered, but didn't find a specific answer. I did, however, spend several enjoyable hours going through old posts. 😄 Thank-you, Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada

How did you elect to proceed? How did the repair turn out? I'd love to see some pictures of the finished job. I need to make a similar repair to a Lascala and would benefit from hearing of your experience.

Hi: I also just picked up a set of Lascalas (s/n 8657579 and 8657580), which were made in early 1986. They're my first Lascalas. They're in Raw Birch cabinets. Based on the serial numbers, I had expected them to have AL2 networks, but the networks are just marked AL. I hope you'll entertain some questions I have. 1) The speakers didn't come with grills and I didn't see where grills would attach. However I've seen photos of Lascalas with grills. Should mine have grills or not? 2) Would AL2 networks be marked as AL2, or might they just be marked AL? 3) There is a 3/4" plywood panel on the base of the cabinet (slightly smaller than the cabinet footprint). Is that original, or would it be something added by a previous owner? I have lots of other questions (about what's original. recommended upgrades, refinishing/restoring the cabinets, re-capping or replacing the networks, documentation, etc), but I'll hold them for future posts. I'm a newbie to the forum, so please pardon me if I should have created a new thread about this, rather than jumping on this one. Thank-you, Dave MacKay near Toronto, Canada