82 Cornwalls
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Posts posted by 82 Cornwalls
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On 9/8/2022 at 6:23 AM, Shakeydeal said:
OP, since you are newbie you should take everything @ODS123 says with a proverbial grain of salt. No, make that a pound of it.
Listen for yourself and you'll likely hear two things:
1) amps can sound dramatically different from each other
2) vinyl played back with a well thought out front end can sound glorious
Like I said, listen and let your own hearing tell you what you need to know. You don't need me or some self proclaimed expert on this forum to validate what you can discern for yourself.
👍
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1 hour ago, Area 51 said:
And, not particular to Sweetie but regarding tubes in general; Where can I find some sort of guide to tell me what tubes are acceptable replacements for tube "rolling" or experimenting in search of different sounds or tones or flavors or ... whatever you call it? How do you know what's interchangeable and what is not?
I just do a search and use tube equivalent.
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7 watts?
Kegger/Blue Glow/Frankenstein KT88 SET built in an old McAlister Audio SE32 PSE chassis using the OPTs.
The sweep tube amp had 11 tubes, so I left 6 fake tubes in their sockets.
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Do you know if the Velodyne is going into protection because of being over driven or due to age and perhaps a failing amplifier (what I assumed)?
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For music 2 smaller subwoofers work well and IMO/E better than a single sub (large or small).
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4 hours ago, Islander said:
That’s good. Thanks. The thing is, I keep seeing references to the “back” wall, which seems to be the wall in back of (an odd way of saying “behind”) the front speakers. Sometimes it really makes you wonder where the speakers are, or what kind of bizarre room they’re in.
The reference (that I don't use) is from the standpoint of the performers on a stage, the wall behind them.
As others have posted, the wall in front of the listener(s) and behind the speakers = front wall is less confusing.
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2 hours ago, garyrc said:
A little extra headroom doesn't hurt, especially if you are going to turn up a bass control. Every 3 dB increase doubles the power need in watts.
I try to use the appropriate tool for the job and advise others to do the same. The OP can continue to use a subwoofer (and maybe add another) with her Sprout (no tone controls) and you can use the bass control if you so desire.
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10 minutes ago, babadono said:
You're a wild man! Who could EVER need more than 10 watts?
I prefer to say 9 watts so I can keep it in single digits. lol
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49 minutes ago, Tiffiny said:
Thank you for the comprehensive information. This may sound as though I am greedy but with my sub turned on, I am really pleased. It is just if I turn the sub off, I feel like the heresy could do better, and my 50 watt amp is likely under powering..?? That being said, I would like to find the most synergistic upgrade for amplification. I did do the room crawl. As far as getting the phase right, I did it alone over the course of a few months LOL, a lot of trial and error but currently with the sub on, my set-up sounds fairly well blended on most music. The sub does not draw attention to itself on most music. The minute I turn the sub off, it is like what happened... Even the mids get thin.
You are describing what is supposed to happen with a subwoofer (or two 😉) and speakers that can use the help. The only way you could have a chance to like the Heresy IVs without a subwoofer, is to get rid of the subwoofer and give it time to get used to the sound without.
Under powered? Are you running a night club?
Agree with Khornukopia above (typing as he was posting).
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18 minutes ago, Curious_George said:
In the old Mullard publication, Tubes Circuits for Audio Amplifiers, they briefly discuss shared cathode resistors... they claim at low power, it is OK, but at higher power levels, better performance is acheived by using separate resistors/caps for each channel. This was noted on a push-pull design, not single-ended.
Mr. Had does this with his single ended Inspire amplifiers (or at least he used to).
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On 8/17/2022 at 3:53 PM, JohnA said:
Check and turn off all EQ in the receiver and set the speaker size to "Large". Set the receiver to "No Subwoofer" and 2 channel only until you add other speakers. If there is an adjustment, set the speaker impedance setting to 4 ohms so the amp will deliver the current the 4 ohm woofer needs.
Actually with most AVRs this limits current, better to run them at the 8 ohm setting for all speakers.
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You would have to order the Decware wired for where you plan to be in 2 years. 😉
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1 hour ago, Hawkeye_a said:
PS>>I would have liked to consider the "LEAK Stereo 130" or the "Decware Triode Amp", but alas they didn't support 100-240V power supplies (and they're way out of my price range
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They both have the option according to their websites.
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4 hours ago, billybob said:
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3 hours ago, bpplaysguitar said:
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6 hours ago, bpplaysguitar said:
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7 hours ago, bpplaysguitar said:
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2 minutes ago, Bubo said:
If you can afford the 5W Decware Amp
you can afford replacement tweeters
Buy the amp, and if you start blowing out tweeters,
either turn it down, or get a 30W tube amp
Lots of class A that measure well, and keep you warm in the long winters
Pair of the beloved MC-30 Class B mono blocks, would be my sentimental Fav.....
Never heard of anyone blowing a tweeter with a flea watt tube amp.
There are audible signs of a problem long before any damage can occur even with solid state amplifiers.
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3 hours ago, JimMeader said:
........, but the at the same time Klipsch rates this speaker for use with over 100 watts.
☺️ My suv's tires are speed rated to 130 MPH, not ever going to dive it anywhere close to that. ☺️
Just joking with you. 😉
What number are you on the waiting list?
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You gain @ 5.3 dBs going from 6 to 20 watts.
I would recommend a Torii Jr over two SE34i.6s (they are no longer simple set amps when run mono).
At my normal listening levels I would probably be using 1/10th of a watt average with your speakers.
I understand people with little or no experience with single digit amplifiers preferring to err on the side of more.
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3 hours ago, JimMeader said:
Since it is a push/pull design I will miss the true SET sound, but as Steve markets, it has "SET transparency"
Have you considered the SE34i?
Never heard a p/p sound like a set and I know several Decware owners that agree. 😉
FWIW, YMMV, IMO/E, etc.
Ever check your listening levels with an SPL meter?
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As already mentioned, it comes down to what you are trying to accomplish and how loud you listen.
A friend has La Scalas and a 2 watt Decware in a room a little smaller than yours, they will easily chase us from the room.
Bass is good too.
Does Jolida JD-505 (KT88) amplifier match with CW IV ?
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
None, the amp you have now is just as good, probably better.
FWIW the Jolida you are/were looking at is the Chinese company and not the US based company (now Black Ice) that most in the US are familiar with.
Damping factor is overrated by many (look at the math).
I have a solid state amp with a very high damping factor and a single ended tube amp with a very low damping factor, the bass is a little different, but I can't say one is better than the other.