Troll

What would we do without forum police. I have my 4th grade safety patrol harness somewhere I’ll send.

Compared to current AL5s, the Chorus I still holds itself up well given horn size. Piano is still magic. Just depends on your ears and what you want to hear, how you want to power and eq it for your space. Still my fav. 1000 watt peaks! Ears are funny things.

The sections allowed to post to are restricted for newcomers, that’s the reason. But it’s technical in nature because someone is saying there’s a technical problem.

Great! Will be looking for e-book!

Are the books sold out or just the fundraiser?

FYI if you didn’t yet test/notice, the new amp runs only warm and goes cold on standby. My original amp for the SPL-150 also ran hot. Besides the resistor I think maybe something else is wrong, causing the resister to receive current. I’ve seen some failed components as well as bad design that make a connection to ground and will run the amplifier at full bore. There is an interesting discussion on TI or Digikey about the 3255 running hot and it is caused by bad design, manufacturing wiring error or other component fault. Different amp design but same concept I think. If it is class D it shouldn’t run hot especially when idle. So hang on to your replacement if not for anything but to save on your electric bill.

From the picture it looks like the jumper goes from one side of the resistor NEXT to L3 not L3 itself. So your fix attempt was not the same as above. Also your solder connection looks “cold”, meaning the solder did not flow to the board. Could be lack of rosin or whatever is used these days. Not sure I could do any better just remember doing it as a kid!

Many years ago I bought a 15” sub from klipsch and the amp failed. Back then they said it was vibration. The new amp had more vibration goo. Now I got a new SPL-150 and the amp failed and I am 2 for 2, and both times Klipsch didn’t want the broken amp back. With all the goo it seems basically non-serviceable. The old sub still works, repeat failing dust cap aside. The spl-150 amp had a hot panel prior to failure. Other panel amps have an external heat sink, but maybe the heat was caused by a failing component. No odor to board though. It would be interesting to have a list of test points to see whether it qualifies for repair. Maybe the vibration goo makes it a throwaway. Manufacturing automation can make these complications cheap and easy to produce, but hard on regular humans! However the TPA3255EVM runs so cool in comparison with fewer parts it seems Klipsch just needs to move on to greener pastures. Cheers!

Danny Richie at GR Research posted and I think he’s been doing this for years but discovered he like PS Audio actively delete comments, so there’s no option to inform anyone there about klipsch or their ideas. But I wonder what sort of legal protections are available for mass media style brand damage attempts versus what any old school shade tree mechanic might say to get some work. The comments are insidious, and I know from being a long time customer Klipsch plays well in the sandbox with the industry. Maybe he’s too small a gnat to attend to, but usually broadcast media invokes other rules about trash talk. It’s one thing to offer aftermarket “performance” like any auto parts store. It seems entirely different to go on and on on mass media about OEM parts and the brand in general. Thoughts anyone?

There are a lot of plate amps on parts express website with external heat sinks which seems the way to go/solve this problem if you need to purchase a replacement.

SPL-150 amp bit the dust. This one seems like power supply but can’t find burns. I did notice panel heat even when on auto. One noticeable thing is no power module heat sinks are bonded to chassis. Seems like it should have been installed upside down with thermal paste on the heat sinks connecting to panel. Klipsch sent another and doesn’t want this one back. Spare tire? While waiting had good luck connecting LFE channel to external amp. Plate amps seem like such a bad idea, especially with internal heat sinks!

I recently bi-amped my AL5s to Yamaha RX-A8A following instructions and what I got was more volume and punch. What I’m not sure about, is that the bass bins wire to the front mains, and the tops wire to the Extra Sp3 which can be used for Zone2/3/bi-amp. I am probably confusing amps but thought maybe the height channels were class D but wasn’t sure about Sp3. Anyway can definitely hear a difference. What it means I don’t know.

Are you exhibiting at https://axpona.com/exhibitors/ ? I don’t see you. Would love to hear them.