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Hi @xenon1, welcome to the Klipsch Community forums. This is the Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread. You have a completely different issue so you should begin a new thread in this forum for your issue. A good choice for a Subject might be: BAR 48 sub has very low volume. Please provide as many details as possible: How old is your soundbar? Did it ever work at full volume? When did this start happening? Have you updated the firmware? Your post will be much more visible and you will have a better chance that someone can provide an answer.

nead assistance soundbar 48 sub is running at about Quarter volume when full turned up full the bar runs at normally tried everything in the manual even swaped output lines now optical in nothing make the slightest difference Tv set even put more bass in the range set tv sound to zero

Hi can someone help me I have disconnected the yellow wire and I can't find where it is connected,on the motherboard of the bar 48.

I would like the answer to this question as well. Does the WA-2 work with the subwoofer from the Bar 48?

Thanks guys I just fixed mine Bar 48 following you're advices.

Bar 48 and Cinema 600 use the power supply in the Amazon link , read the thread , all instructions on installation are posted

Wanted to say thanks to everyone on this thread who provided great info. I was able to use the Amazon link provided and get the part up here in Canada and with the various posts here and pictures, get my Bar 48 up and running again. Mine died after 3.5 years so seems I may have actually done pretty well. Oddly though about a year in, the LEDs started to flicker so I wonder if that was the beginning of the end. Before I found this thread, I tried a couple of different sound bars as a replacement and kept sending them back as the Bar 48 just sounded so good. I ended up ordering the Cinema 600 and it's actually a bit of an upgrade in sound, and wow the sub is much bigger. That said, I had another TV I needed a sound bar for, so the 48 will be put back into service (and one less thing in the land fill!). Also nice to know if it dies it'll be the same procedure for the new one as well (I did buy an extended warranty this time!)

Hi everyone, I too like fixing stuff rather than chucking it away. I also believe that modern electronics are built to fail, that's why I like older cars!! Anyway I have been following this tread since before Christmas and thought "well it seems that easy that I'll just get the power supply". That arrived last week and following SixerFixer's instructions I got it all done. I thought that it had worked as I saw the power light on the bench but after putting it back in it place..... nothing. It's a bar 48. So my original board had NO power to it at all after testing (240v was there) no 24v no 5v. With the new power supply that I sourced from ebay the power is there for about 2 secs. The 24v is fine the 5v will only stay on initially then drops to 2,3v. I f disconnect the 5v then power remains at 5v as soon as I reconnect it it drops to 2.3v. This is telling me that something else has failed but I have no idea what. Can someone point me to what it could be? I don't really understand electronics, I do known how to solder well and follow instructions though! When I was a teenager (Mid 1970's) I worked for Orange Music(UK) wiring speakers and amplifiers. Thanks in advance.

At one point I asked Klipsch to provide some documentation but I never got a response. My BAR 48 died a couple of years ago. I've moved on. 😀

Does the Klipsch WA-2 wireless adapter work with the Klipsch Soundbar Bar 48 Subwoofer?

Well if it is not the fuse, see what Klipsch says troubleshooting through their motions. Plenty here just do a search here and and on google on the bar 48... @KevinB

I’ve had a Bar 48 sound bar for just over 2 years. One of my side speakers just stopped working (like won’t even come in). I think I need to replace it. How do you do that? Doesn’t seem to be an option on the website. Thanks!!

Hello fellow Klipsch bar 48 friends! I am a completely noob when it comes to electronics, power, amps and watts and whatnot. I have a bar48 with surround speakers that are working fine. My problem is the sub very often wont turn on when the system is turned on. The blue light in the back of the sub wont tun on and no sound. Sometimes it helps swapping the power cables with the bar and sub. I have also had succes a couple times using another random power cable but in the end it keeps often not turning on. I think the problem is the power supply/ bad/unstable connection inside the sub since it works sometime. Has anyone had similar problems with the subwoofer and its power?

I searched and did not find anyone with this issue. After a vacation where all of my equipment was unplugged from the wall, I return to have the LEDs on top and front flicker then stop working. I suspect a power supply issue as previously mentioned in posts, but am not savvy enough to replace it. Two year old unit out of warrant that now completely cuts out at random times using HDMI. Pops a bit with optical cable (that might be the TV settings). And I seek the wisdom of @KevinBif you've heard of this one. Also, I'm super curious - with all of the issues with Bar 48, what influenced you to purchase a Cinema 800???? I love (understatement) the brand also, but it seems that the Soundbar division isn't up to usual Klipsch quality standards. [I'm a newbie so the system won't let me message you directly]

@JP71 Have a look at this thread: Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread.

Most of the BAR 48 issues have been encountered previously by other customers and have been discussed in other threads. The first thing to do is review existing forum content. If your issue is not addressed, you are better off adding your comments to one of the existing threads dealing with your specific product/issue. Click here for content related to the BAR 48.

@001 @billybob I've been helping out with issues affecting the BAR series and Cinema series sound bars for the past couple of years but I seem to miss posts when someone starts a new thread. If you think I can help out somewhere, please tag me and I'll jump in. @Floyd91 Most of the issues have been encountered previously by other customers and have been discussed in other threads. The first thing to do is review existing forum content. If your issue is not addressed, you are better off adding your comments to one of the existing threads dealing with your specific product/issue. Click here for content related to the BAR 48.

@Larry1974GD Re: Surround 3s The sound levels and sound quality delivered to the Surround 3s are determined by the firmware on the soundbar. Customers have been complaining about extremely low sound levels from their Surround 3s for a long time. Klipsch attempted to resolve these issues on the BAR 48 with a couple of firmware updates but I noticed very little difference after applying the updates. The Cinema 600 only provides very limited control of the Surround 3 volume and, in my opinion, it too is largely ineffective. See the Klipsch article: Cinema 600 - Surround Sound Level Adjustment with Surround 3's. I now have a Cinema 800. There have been three firmware updates since I've had this soundbar and the Surround 3s now produce adequate sound levels. The Cinema 800 firmware updates will also update the firmware on the attached surrounds and have resolved other issues like hissing and scratchy sounds that some customers have reported. Since I am using the same Surround 3s that I purchased with my BAR 48, I can only conclude that the majority of the issues affecting the Surround 3s are a result of the soundbar to which they are attached.

Hi, I'm using my Cinema 600 which I was sent as a replacement after sending two dysfunctional Bar 48s back to the factory. Is it normal to wait over 60 seconds for the soundbar to power on? I have to hold or press power repeatedly. The sub comes on sooner. It also takes a while to automatically power on after I turn on the TV source. Is this a firmware thing? I got it brand new last week.

The BAR 48 definitely can process Dolby Digital. I enjoyed many movies that had Dolby Digital 5.1 soundtracks. Dolby Digital Plus provides higher sound quality than does Dolby Digital. The BAR 48 specs said it could process Dolby Digital Plus but Klipsch never got that part working.

I was provided a Cinema 600 warranty replacement for my BAR 48 which had a multitude of issues. The BAR 48 was supposed to support Dolby Digital Plus which can provide CD quality audio but it never worked. I was never able to get Dolby Digital Plus working with my Cinema 600 then Klipsch admitted that the Cinema 600 doesn't support Dolby Digital Plus so the replacement didn't provide the same features that the BAR 48 was supposed to provide. Before I could discuss the matter with Klipsch, the Cinema 600 dropped dead! Long story short, I now have a Cinema 800 and still using the same Surround 3s that I purchased with my BAR 48. Most of My BAR 48 issues appear to have been resolved in the Cinema 600 and now my Cinema 800 supports Dolby Digital Plus and Dolby Atmos. The Cinema 800 is everything the BAR 48 should have been! The Cinema 800 has had its issues, most of which have been firmware related. Klipsch has just provided me with their latest firmware update which looks very promising. While the crackling sound you hear may be due to an issue with the Surround 3s, some customers have reported that issue has been resolved with the latest firmware update to their Cinema 800 soundbar which will also update the firmware in the Surround 3s. I understand your issues trying to get a warranty exchange on your Cinema 600. Klipsch may be more sympathetic if you explain that you had a BAR 48 with many issues, that you purchased the Cinema 600 as a replacement and didn't seek a warranty replacement on your BAR 48. You may still be able to return your new Cinema 600 to Best Buy and wrangle a Cinema 800 as a replacement from Klipsch, if you are lucky. Let us know what transpires.

Half the time my bar 48 will immediately start playing loud modem like sounds when I try to start a show. It’s connected through an optical cable. I stream everything through my TV. Sometimes Netflix works sometimes I get that high pitched modem beeping and buzzing. Same for every other streaming app I’ve tried. The sound bar is on the latest firmware.

I purchased a Cinema 600 soundbar in May 2021, which just died. Red light, won't power on. Went through the FW upgrade steps, still nothing; it's dead, Jim. I contacted Klipsch support and they wouldn't honor the warranty because I bought it open box through Best Buy which, honestly, is crap (but I get it). Worse, the Cinema 600 replaced an equally faulty Bar 48. Looking around the internet, I see a litany of similar stories and stumbled upon this (https://www.channelnews.com.au/is-the-klipsch-cinema-600-soundbar-being-recalled/) which leads me to believe this isn't isolated at all and Klipsch probably knows it. Here's the thing: I purchased the Surround 3's so I have the set up for a decent enough 5.1 should I choose to replace the Cinema 600. My question is: has the Cinema 600 been improved? Was the power supply issue addressed (which supposedly leads to the red light issue)? Will my Surround 3's still crackle and disconnect all the time if I purchase (yet another) Klipsch soundbar?

I have a Klipsch bar 48 sound bar. Recently i am hearing clicking/popping noise from the center speaker. Anyone have any idea why this is happening?

I wanted to add my experience getting the Bar 48 back up and working. I can't speak for the Cinema 600 as this thread is for the Bar 48 - so my experience may or may not apply to the Cinema 600. Symptoms: The control panel and lights on the Bar 48 started flickering, then a few days later stopped working all together. Since the speakers still worked, I ignored the issue as an annoyance. However, after another day or two, the speakers became very staticky and then stopped working all together. After disassembling the guts of the Bar 48, I tested the volage on the 5v side of the power supply - being very careful to not touch any of the 120v parts on the same board. I tested the voltage between GND and VDD. It would show 5v, but then rather quickly started to drop. Around 4.6v, the lights would stop functioning. The STB is 3.3 v out (more on this below) and it turns the 24v power supply on and off. I'm guessing that's why my lights stopped working (dropped below 4.6v) but the speakers were still working (still above 3.3v). Eventually, the 5v side dropped below 3.3v and the 24v side turned off - or at least that's my guess. Side note: I don't have the proper tools to fully test capacitors, but I tested C05 and C06 as suggested by @ongtw75. C05 appeared to be not holding voltage, but otherwise seemed okay based on my rudimentary tests. C06 seemed to be fine. I replaced C05 with two 100uF capacitors but I still saw the same issues as described above. I didn't have the patience (or necessary replacement parts) to test the other capacitors, so I just moved on to replacing the entire power supply. Observations and Reverse Engineering: Based on other posts in this thread and my own testing, I am fairly confident the power supply is set up as follows: 5v side: VDD -> GND: 5v which is used to power the control board (lights, buttons, IR remote sensor, bluetooth, etc) STB -> GND: 3.3v when the soundbar is on* STB -> GND: 0.1-ish v when the soundbar is off* 24v side: V+ -> V-: 24v to drive the speakers *STB -> GNC is used to control the 24v side of the power supply. This supplies 3.3v from the control board back to the power supply when the power is turned on, so previous instructions to connect this to 5v+ are incorrect. You can either leave this unconnected or you can use it to trigger a relay (see below). If you really want to wire it to something, wire it to ground, not 5v+. But, if you are not wiring in a relay, the STB wire doesn't do anything so you might as well leave it be. Solution: I ordered this power supply and this relay. The relay is not necessary - but if you want to recreate the original functionality of killing power to the speakers, then the relay will do the trick. Otherwise, you can wire the speakers directly into the 24v side of the power supply and just leave them "on" all the time. Probably not going to hurt much either way, I just like the idea of keeping the functionality as close to original as possible. To keep things clear, I'll refer to the 3.3v STB wire as XXXX (the pattern marked on the wire), the 5v+ wire as Pink, the 5v GND wire as White, and the 24v + and - as Red and Black respectively. To begin, I made sure everything was unplugged. Next, I clipped all the wires connected to the old power supply. You likely want to verify that your colors match mine before you go snip happy. Next, I stripped and connected the AC mains power to the appropriate terminals on the new power supply. Mine was labeled AC-220v. The polarity does not matter. Then, I connected the Pink wire to the 5v+ terminal on the power supply. You will probably want to verify with a multimeter, but mine was the DC2+ terminal on the power supply. This will supply power to the controller board. I also connected a pigtail to the 5v+ terminal as well, which I will connect to a relay (this is optional). Next, I connected the White wire to the 5v- terminal, marked as DC2- on my power supply. Again, I connected a pigtail as well for a relay. At this point, you can test your setup if you want to. The controller board should power on. You should even be able to connect to Bluetooth, etc - but you won't get any sound yet. If you are not planning to use a relay, you can simply connect the Red wire to the 24v+ (DC1+ on my power supply) and the Black wire to the 24v- (DC1-) and you are done. The XXXX wire can be connected to the 5v ground (DC2-) if you really want to - but there is no need to connect it to anything. If you are planning to use a relay, instead connect Red to the NO (normally open) terminal and Black to the COM (common) terminal on the relay. Then connect your 5v+ pigtail to the DC+ terminal on the relay, and the 5v- pigtail to the DC- terminal. Lastly, connect the XXXX wire to the IN (trigger) terminal on the relay. Make sure the relay is set to HIGH switching. Now, whenever the soundbar is turned on, the STB (XXXX wire) will send 3.3v to the relay trigger (i.e. setting it high), causing it to close the "normally open" circuit. You can reference the attached schematic drawing. It doesn't really matter, but just note that the blue wire is 3.3v going from the controller board to the relay (when the soundbar is turned on). Again, STB (aka the XXXX wire) does not need to be connected to any 5v sources (or 24v sources for that matter). circuit (4).svg