InVeNtOr Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 thats exactly why i had to shield all my cables, they all run together. everything behind my et center is tied and routed together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksonbart Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 I just PMed Ken in his jean cutoffs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast1 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Inventor, I was wondering what all the plug number designations are coming from? What are they? Where would a guy buy good shielded cable for this application? When I move, I may want to just buy some bulk cord and build (probably 5-7 cords) some quality cords. I do not have a high rezzy TV yet so my power conditions do not show me any gain yet but I will get there. Is this shielding sleeve the cheapest route for shielded cables? Would sure seem some of the large wire wholesale houses should have shielded cable for commercial multi media applications. Last time we did a theatre, we ran PVC conduit for all speakers and no conduit for power wires. Do you see any issues in using PVC for signal wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 If shielding an AC cable helps, maybe you have issues with your equipment or interconnects. If your equipment uses balanced interconnects, that will reduce or eliminate noise pickup of all kinds. Keeping AC and signal wiring separate is absolutely essential. Proper grounding solves most noise issues. If you are still having noise issues, balanced power is a must. As far as power shielding goes, if the wire inside the wall isn't also shielded you haven't really done anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksonbart Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 If you are getting a lot of noise issues, seems like buying expensive cables is like buying the extra strong detergent that gets out blood stains. If you consistently are getting blood stains on your clothes/fabrics perhaps you should consider another type of change (like consulting the police or a doctor) rather than using that extra strong detergent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast1 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Don, that is precisely how we have looked at this issue for years! Seems odd to spend hundreds on cabling that last few feet but there is several hundered feet in the house that is not shielded. What gives. I can tell you I have a small noise in my house and I bought a Monster conditioner and regulator and neither touched the noise. I never really chased the problem even though I think it is a house grounding issue. I have never seen a direct comparison of shielded and non-shielded cable to "see" a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InVeNtOr Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 the plugs come from the company. vhaudio go to that website. it's the easiest one for me to remember. they are Oyaide connectors. the shielded cable can be found all over the internet. i would choose a good flat run, maybe 3/8" or even 1/2". different people sell it for different prices. it also depends on how much you want. i have to buy 100' at a time. gets expensive. that is why i said i would do it if i could get at least 10 people. it adds up quick buying connectors, shield, snake skin, wire, etc. the p079 and c079 together cost $25 for me to buy, that's just the 2 connectors. to get the most out of these cords i strongly suggest a power conditioner. i first recommend Furman Sound, then Panamax. (Tripp Lite and APC are also good). i feel a challenge, i think i am going to have to build a standard cable with no shield and see if there is a difference. in my personal situation it may be unfair though, i have all my power cords tied together so they all have neat tight wire runs behind my ET center. all homes have noise and rmi/emi. that's everywhere. the fact that the house doesn't have shielded wire through out isn't the issue. if you have a good conditioner, it will remove (at least they should) all that interference. my suggestion is, if you are going to invest in something like that, you should have have shielded cables coming out of the conditioner. other wise you are allowing any interference to come back into the cables, i.e. noise. i think with all the gimmicks we have become very skeptical about everything. a lot of the equipment we buy to ensure that we get every drop of performance out of our gear is necessary. the problem is, most of it needs another piece to be able to fully take advantage of what it does. for example, a conditioner with out shielded power cords, is almost useless. (at least in my opinion). in my personal set up, with everything being shielded, my standard tv (att uverse) the picture almost looks like the quality of a blu-ray. everyone that has seen it has been impressed. some channels look better than others, but for the most part, my cable image has been better than everyone elses. i was also tickled with they thought it was due to me having a 1080p tv....i only have a 720p. the expression after they found out was worth it all! to Oyaide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 The first thing that happens to the AC power input is that it gets converted to DC to run the rest of the circuits. If you were starting from scratch, you would specify the required DC values up front in the design and use a battery; the conversion of AC to DC is just to account for the common source of power availability. (Some tubes use AC heaters, though) So... at what point does a seriously wealthy audiophile forgo using AC power and switch to battery? The elegant and effictive solution would be to bypass the AC line power and provide dead clean battery power directly to the circuits. How much would that modification cost? I think it would cost less than some of the more expensive AC power cables? Deep cycle marine batteries are not expensive and act to separate you from the problems of the AC source, even though they use the AC source to charge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 rule #1 don't run A/C lines and line level cables parallel to each other for any distance. period. that being said- the cable you built looks Awesome mang! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 Don, that is precisely how we have looked at this issue for years! Seems odd to spend hundreds on cabling that last few feet but there is several hundered feet in the house that is not shielded. What gives. I can tell you I have a small noise in my house and I bought a Monster conditioner and regulator and neither touched the noise. I never really chased the problem even though I think it is a house grounding issue. I have never seen a direct comparison of shielded and non-shielded cable to "see" a difference. This is an age-old problem. I solved it 7-1/2 years ago: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/4968/33803.aspx#33803 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuyOtherSoundEquipment Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 This is an age-old problem. I solved it 7-1/2 years ago: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/4968/33803.aspx#33803 ....and that settles it! Great post, fini. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 One possible source of voltage drop and noise is the connectors that the power company uses to hook up the line from the pole to the house wiring. In many places aluminum wire is used from the pole to the house. Different connectors should be used depending on whether the wiring from the house is copper or aluminum. IIRC, Al connectors are to be used if both sides are Al, and Cu connectors if one or both sides are Cu. The Al connectors eventually loosen if crimped to Cu, causing the problems. I don't know if this is a NEC Code item or a local provider practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 my whole house is wired with sheilded AC power lines.....it's called BX cabling....for those that are familuar with romax..BX is your basic 3 or 4 conductors wound with a steel flex tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted February 4, 2009 Share Posted February 4, 2009 "So... at what point does a seriously wealthy audiophile forgo using AC power and switch to battery" I've seen DAC's and T-amps run off batteries....so sure..to some extent...something audio can run off batteries. " The first thing that happens to the AC power input is that it gets converted to DC to run the rest of the circuits." Very true...if we could only seperate the power ground from the signal ground... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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