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Thanks and more questions


Goon

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Thanks to the advice from this forum, my new HT system is finally complete. Just wanted to say thanks for the help, and ask a couple more newbie questions.

Here is my new system:

Integra 8.2 Receiver

Klipsch Epic CF-3s Fronts (Monster MCX2 cable)

Klipsch KLF-C7 Center (Monster MCX 1 cable)

Klipsch RS-3II Surrounds (Monster XPHP cable)

Sunfire MKIV Subwoofer (Monster 351 cable)

Used for 70% music, 30% movies

Here come the questions:

1) I'm thinking of biwiring the fronts with Monster 1.4 cable. I've had the CF-3s for 6 years running off an Onkyo 727 with the MCX2 cable. I've heard mixed opinions on the advantages/disadvantages of biwiring, and I'm wondering if the improvement is worth the cost of the cable. Specifically, I'm wondering if biwiring will bring out bass and midrange more. Thoughts? Also, any other biwired cable recommendations other than Monster?

2) What is the preferred place to put a subwoofer if it cannot be along the same wall as the fronts? I live in a townhouse, and my system is against a shared wall. I originally put the sub in a corner next to my fronts. Of course, that is where the manual recommends, and where it sounded best, but it was bothering the neighbors too much. Right now, I have it in the opposite corner against the back wall. That seems fine for home theater, but for music it doesn't blend well. Any ideas? Should I try for the middle of the room? Cabling would be really hard with that though.

Thanks

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quote:

Originally posted by Goon:

Thanks to the advice from this forum, my new HT system is finally complete.

Now that's an oxymoron Biggrin.gif Famous last words... Biggrin.gif HT's are never complete Biggrin.gif

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-justin

I am an amateur, if it is professional;

ProMedia help you want email Amy or call her @ 1-888-554-5665 or for an RA# 1-888-554-5665

Klipsch Home Audio help you want, email support@klipsch.com or call @ 1-800-KLIPSCH

RA# Fax Number=317-860-9140 / Parts Department Fax Number=317-860-9150

ProMedia 5.1 Placement Help s>

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Sorry you had to lower your sub standard on your favorite Goon tunes... but there may be a way if a sidewall location doesn't do it.

BTW, frequencies under about 80Hz should be below your ability to perceive the directions of the waves. So setting your sub to cut off above 80Hz may solve the problem in the back wall setting.

Another is to build a false corner out a ways from your one good upfront corner. That will give you the kick you want but dampen it for your neighbors. That's what Mr. Paul (Klipsch) did in his house for the K-Horns. If memory serves, MacKlipsch posted Mr. Paul's plans on this Forum some months ago.

Here's some things to concinder... make it solid and have it extend about a foot on either side of the sub and maybe two feet higher. I have used 3/4" marine plywood for the base and short walls... braced and cross-braced with 2"x4" and filled with insulation... I hear sand fills work well too.

Good luck with your neighbors...cwm42.gif HornEd

This message has been edited by HornEd on 02-21-2002 at 06:52 AM

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Thanks, but I couldn't do it in the room I have right now. Once I have a larger house, and dedicated room for a home theater setup, I may go floor standing in the rear. Who knows.

Just tryin to setup and cable everything I have right now for optimum performance. Thats why I am wondering about biwiring and sub placement.

Thanks for the offer though.

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Well, then, Goon... in my experience, the art of sub placement is far more a factor in good listening than bi-wiring has proven to be... particularly with something with the wall shaking power of a little Sunfire!

It takes an ear more delicate than mine to really appreciate bi-wiring. But, I can feel the good bass... particularly while sitting in my oversize, glove-soft leather LazyBoy recliner. Good leather gives you a "shake your booty" bass experience like no other furniture covering.

Looking for standing Wavey.gif waves with an SPL meter is a good idea for understanding neighborly concerns. Standing waves can create cancel out bass frequencies in one location and double them in another... and the dynamics change at every frequency.

So, some music with a good range of bass, be sure all your other speakers are set to "SMALL" (and thereby reduce the conflict of <80Hz waves)... Cruise the room watching the SPL's. Pay special attention to areas close to reflective boundaries... walls, corners, etc. You may be surprised at what you discover.

It's all part of engaging your BRAIN before shifting into EAR. Good luck. cwm13.gif HornEd

This message has been edited by HornEd on 02-21-2002 at 10:33 AM

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CharlieT, an SPL meter is one of the most important pieces of HT/Music gear. The most popular SPL meter is the analog one from Radio Shack that goes for a little over $35 (the digital one seems less accurate). And at that price, instructions are included. Ideally, you should also pick up a set-up DVD... like Video Essentials or Avia... but you can find out a lot by using a receiver's built in pink noise and DVD's that have a lot of whatever you are testing.

Just as the human eye has an image latency that provides the delay that makes "movies" appear smooth, human ears include aspects which limit their precision in certain sound comparisons. Thus, an SPL meter can reveal things about your room that your ears would have a hard time discerning... like setting all your speakers to 70dB so that HT and multi-channel music comes across like it was meant to.

To do that, you set the SPL meter on 70dB, select your LMain only and turn the receiver volume until the needle hits "0"... then run your receiver through each speaker position using the +/- control in the receiver to bring each speaker up to the 70dB mark (leaving the main volume control where it was when you set the LMain!) Now your speakers are in the relative volume potential anticipated by the mixers of HT and multi-channel music.

You can also use the SPL (Sound Pressure Level = "volume" to most folks) meter to map your listening area for bad bass anomalies... like standing waves on which I have commented on in several threads lately.

Wavey.gif It's time for Charlie to "Tuna" HT system... and get rid of any fishy aural residue! cwm34.gif HornEd

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HornEd,

Thanks again for your prompt and courteous response!

Just ordered the Video Essemtials DVD from Amazon (not many left) and will hit Radio Shack today.

You realize, of course, this will just prompt more questions. Any answer is just another branch in the tree of knowledge. I have much to learn and many branches to climb.

CT

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You can tune a radio, but you can't tuna fish!

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