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Klipsch 5.5 & 4.5


damurf

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You got a good deal even if you just count the speakers you got for that price. The sub and receiver are a bonus. Klipsch speakers are super efficient, so they don't need a lot of power to sound great, so your receiver should be enough. Welcome to the madness!

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Good deal all up.

I bought the Son a pair of KG 5.5s and after a cabinet repair (the glue had come loose on the back) they sound great. I paid $205 for the pair and the KV 3 center speaker.

He is driving them with an old HK AVR that was lumped in with another deal I made and they are rockin the house in his Navy Dorm room. Even a Bose guy in the building had to admit that they were better than his Acoustamess 5.1 setup that he paid full price for, not easy to do when you spend that kind of $$$$ [;)].

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Good deal all up.

I bought the Son a pair of KG 5.5s and after a cabinet repair (the glue had come loose on the back) they sound great. I paid $205 for the pair and the KV 3 center speaker.

Cal, did you just reglue over the old? How did you repair mine is having the same problem?

Thanks

P.S. - That is a GREAT Deal on the speakers

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Good deal all up.

I bought the Son a pair of KG 5.5s and after a cabinet repair (the glue had come loose on the back) they sound great. I paid $205 for the pair and the KV 3 center speaker.

Cal, did you just reglue over the old? How did you repair mine is having the same problem?

Thanks

P.S. - That is a GREAT Deal on the speakers

Yes, I do think we did OK on the price [:P]

As for the repair, I took out both woofers and the foam from inside the cab then I went to the home center and bought 2 sticks of 3/4" square clear wood. I cleaned up all the old glue that was inside the cab and scuffed up the surface of the MDF but did not try to remove the back of the cab. Before using any glue, I cut the 3/4 square wood to fit inside the cab
(the long way) with about 2 inches clearance on either end. You might
want to do the short sides if you are worried about them but our cabs
were OK on the short ends.

I also bought 2 sticks of wood that were of a lower grade to use as "clamps" inside the box. With the 3/4" wood strips in place (they are properly called glue blocks) I measured the distance inside the cab from the top of the glue block to the inside of the motor board and the inside distance between the glue blocks side to side. I then cut the second 2 sticks of wood just about 1/8" larger than the measured distance. These are now to be used as "clamps" as they will be able to be wedged between the motor board and the glue blocks and between the glue blocks across the back of the cab. Remember, the clamps are LARGER than the space they are intended to fit into so you may not get them to fit square or straight, angled is OK as long as there is slight pressure on the glue blocks to keep them in place as the glue dries.

I used Gorilla glue (a wood working glue that expands like foam to fill voids) on the wood blocks and installed the "clamps" being carefull to not bow the cab either from side to side or front to back (though the cab that was loose still bowed about 1/8" in the center, be carefull). The glue has a 1/2 hour set time and after about 45 minutes or so, I removed the "clamps" and the repair was complete. I cleaned any glue that had pushed it's way through the crack in the back of the cab (between the sides and the back) , reinstalled the foam (reversing the direction the foam was folded to make a tighter fit) and reinstalled the drivers. The glue has a 24 hour 100% cure time but after about 1 1/2 hours, we gave the speakers a gentle test and all was well. The next day, we cranked them up to jet engine levels and all was well, not a rattle in the cab to be heard.

All together, it cost something like $30 for all the wood and glue and took something like 1 1/2 hours to do both cabs though only one was "loose".

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