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Early 80's Heresy HWL Refinishing Questions


annt

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I managed to score a set of early 80's Heresy HWL.

According to what ive been able to find online, HWL indicates a laquered Walnut finish.

I was wondering what you guys recommend for refinishing. They actually arent bad at all, but I prefer an oil finish.

Can I sand them down and apply oil?

Also where can I order or find a set (or single) Klipsch replacement badge for one of them?

Thanks!

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If they are missing lacquer, they will need a reapplication of lacquer. This is tricky; and not my forte....

I suspect careful sanding and prep and then spray with lacquer.

If they are in good shape, I might consider leaving as is.....

If you really want an oil finish:

I think if you sand carefully and then apply Watco oil you should be good, but a thorough, careful sanding will be necessary.

(Anywhere that has lacquer remaining will not absorb oil).

Others with better experience will chime in.... (I'm still learning)....

Good Luck!

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You would be better off stripping them first, sanding lightly, and then applying the finish of choice. Be aware that the veneer is quite thin. It is very easy to sand right through if you are not careful. Do not even think about using a belt sander. Hand sanding (with a block) would be best, but you can get away with a finish sander if you are careful.

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I seem to write the same post every year or so.

If you want to remove lacquer, please look around the Internet for information on removing lacquer. Here is one site.

http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-strip-wooden-furniture.htm

Varnish and paint are tough and require a chemical stripper. But lacquer will soften and liquify with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Wm McD

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I seem to write the same post every year or so.

If you want to remove lacquer, please look around the Internet for information on removing lacquer. Here is one site.

http://tlc.howstuffworks.com/home/how-to-strip-wooden-furniture.htm

Varnish and paint are tough and require a chemical stripper. But lacquer will soften and liquify with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Wm McD

Yep.... What he said! [Y]

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Thanks everyone for the information!

I started using Lacquer Thinner and WOW, this is definitely a very messy (and toxic) process!

I went at it with rags initially and then started using steel wool which seemed to work better.

That said, its definitely working and the wood veneer looks great underneath.

Next up is some light sanding and then some Minwax Tung Oil finish.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I wish I had read this earlier as I never took 'before' pictures.

Perhaps I'll post some 'after' photos when I get a chance, but I will summarize what I did for anyone else.

First step was taping off the black frontside and rearsides of the speaker cabinets (unless you plan on also refinishing/repainting them as well). The black lacquer was still in perfect condition so I didnt plan to sand or repaint them. Using tape and newsaper make sure they are covered thouroughly otherwise, if any Lacquer Thinner gets on to them, it will ruin the paint and finish.

After this was done I took some small white rags and began soaking them with Lacquer Thinner.

The stuff is VERY strong so I recommend using gloves (the gloves will likely begin to melt after extended use).

After the rags are soaked I began using them to thoroughly saturate the old lacquer finish, one side at a time.

edit: working with Lacquer Thinner should definitely be done outdoors with good ventilation!

I allow the Lacquer Thinner to settle on the surface for about 10-20 seconds (it evaporates quickly) and then began scraping the old layers of lacquer with an old plastic kitchen spatula. If the old lacquer begins to turn into a jelly and comes off pretty easily then its working properly. (if its not, its possible you have some other finish that is NOT lacquer).

Dont expect to get ALL the lacquer off initially, so move on and do all the sides getting as much off as you can.

After this is done, its time to get some Steel Wool, it should be about medium in coarseness. Dip the steel wool in the Lacquer Thinner and begin rubbing down all the sides (go with the grain) removing any Lacquer than was left within the grain and or scratches. Repeat if necessary.

At this point all the old lacquer should be gone and all that should be left is the wood veneer on your Heresy's (or other klipsch speaker). What happens next depends on the condition of the wood, mine did have some deep scratches so I had to level them out first. DON'T use an electric sander as the layer of wood veneer is fairly thin and you risk sanding through it. I used a rubber sand paper holder and sanded by hand starting with 120 sand paper for the rougher areas and working myself up to 320 and then finally 600 grit sand paper. After all the sides are done youre ready to finish them.

Some of you might choose to re-lacquer them or even restain them, I decided to simply apply some Minwax Tung Oil finish which is probably the easiest option and in my opinion looks the best.

First start by making sure the wood surfaces are clean and that no dust from the sanding remains in the grain. I used an air compressor to clean it out it.

I then took a small lint-less white cloth (you can use an old sock) and used this to apply the Minwax Oil Finish making sure to move with the grain.

After giving it a nice coat, you let it dry for about 5-10 minutes and then use another clean rag to buff it smooth.

After doing this to all the sides, you let it dry for atleast 24 hours before repeating. Its recommended you do this atleast twice, but the more you do it, the richer the final result will be. I ended up coating mine 5 times and lightly buffing with a super fine steel wool inbetween coats. After my final coat, I buffed it out again with some super fine steel wool until I achieved the luster I wanted. At this point I removed the tape and newspaper that was covering the front and rear of the speakers which should've been protected from all the work that was done.

The final result was definitely a HUGE improvement over the old 25+ year lacquer finish that was marred with scuffing and scratches. The color is also darker and richer. It took me about a week total to achieve but the serious work (lacquer removal and sanding) took about 2-3 hours to do, the rest was just waiting inbetween coats.

I am by no means an expert at restoring furniture or old speakers, but just wanted to pass along what worked for me if anyone was interested.

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