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RF-7 HF crossover mod,do I double up both resister's on each end of HF board?


rugerdog

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I'm finally going to do the HF crossover mod on my RF-7's.I've looked at other pages and I'm not sure:

Do I double up both resister's on both ends of the HF board,with the same resister's?

1 end has: 10w 2ohm J resister

The other end has: 10w 1RJ resister

Or do I just double up the 10w 2ohm J resister,like I can see in a picture?

Thanks much

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I went to a couple local places, I got 2 types.

Manufacturer:NTE

shows on it:NTE 10W 010 L F

10W 10ohm 5% 082L

The other package of 2 :

Manufacturer:Not sure manufactured in Mex for Radio Shack

shows on it:CP-10 MEXICO 1026

10ohm 10% DALE 10W

So one is 5% tolerence, and the other 10% tolerence.I will use the 5% by NTE,correct?

Thanks

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Oh yea,I dont know if right persons will see this now,but I thought I'd mention.During reviewing past pages,and questions,I saw where I had mentioned someones RF-7 crossovers looked nothing like the ones in my RF-7's.I guess it's the photo that threw me off,my RF-7 crossovers are exactly like the ones in photos.

Thanks again Dean and all.I'm on my way. What an impressive difference,and for about $2.00.

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Excited.My Mobile Fidelity sacd:Foreigner (Foreigner) came today.I like most of those Mobile Fidelity Sound Lab,Original Master Recording sa/cd's.

Perfect timing to have done the resistor addition.

Pioneer Elite SC-09TX,Anthem Statement P2,Esoteric X-03SE,Klipsch RF-7,Audio Quest Cheetah,Transparent Audio Premium MusicWave Super bi-wire,Transparent Audio Premium Super power cords,Seperate mains/circuit breakers,seperate ground rod.

All my items are original,except the extra 2ohm resistor in Klipsch RF-7 speakers.

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Strange,

After having sound run thru the speakers for approx 15 hours,they seem really bright again.It's like the tweeter db is soo much higher than the rest???

I had'nt mentioned it yet,but it's something that seems to happen all the time.The HF seems soo much harsher at different times.I mean even with the same sa/cd,music tracks.???Soo much so,that it's like floor noise sound,or what is it called,pink test noise?, out of only the tweeters,both speakers.Actually the right speaker may be slightly more.

What the heck can it be???

Faulty crossover parts,or need a different,larger db cutting resistor?

What would a different,one piece resistor be to use?I see a 20w 8ohmresistor.In other words I'd like to remove the original resistor,and put in it's place 1 resistor.Or should I get 2 of the same 10w 10ohm resistors,and still parallel?

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Another item I don't understand,I researched other photos of other persons RF-7 crossovers,their HF resistor's the one's on each end of the HF board,I see,well I can see one's,and there's the same resistor on each end,the original ones that is.His photo (Name:Southern,May,23,2010 posting)shows both end resistors being the 10w 2ohm J,as I say the ones on my HF board are different on each end.As I state in my first post,at top of this page.

Can someone,please, tell me if there supposed to be the same?

Oh,forget it,I notice it's a photo from an RC-7.Center speaker

I should probably give up

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Or,maybe another part of my, or some others RF-7 speakers having an off treble/high treble sound is,as I say one end of my HF board has a 10w 2ohm J resistor and the end has a 10w 1RJ resistor.What is the difference between these two resistors,if there supposed to both be 10w 2ohm,why are mine different.Maybe someone at Klipsch made a mistake??? With certain serial number range/runs??? Or maybe ran out of enough 10w 2ohm rsistors for awhile during assembly.

Should I change out that 10w 1RJ resistor,to a 10w 2ohm? So both end are the same?

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You're getting yourself confused. With the wires facing you, the rf7 has a 1 ohm resistor on the right side of the board. The rc7 has a 2 ohm instead. Both networks have a 2 ohm resistor on the left side (next to the large 18mfd capacitor) - which is the side you want to add the 10 ohm resistor to. I can't really tell from the posts where you are with this at this point. It sounds as if you did it, that it initially sounded better, but then went sideways on you. It could be any number of things: most notably a bad solder joint or a damaged resistor from exposing it to too much heat.

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OK,

When I get all the parts:

Mills 1ohm 12w non ind

" " 2ohm " "

" " 10ohm " "

Kimber 5uF 200v cap

" " 12uF " "

Jantzen 18uF 400v cross cap

I still parallel the Mills 10ohm and 2ohm?

Then just replace the items,part for part? correct?

And leave the white/roundcoils where they are,untouched? correct?

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