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Automotive Clear For Final Finish


paul32579

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I have some well-worn H1s in oak. I was going to strip, bleach, and clear them. I could re-veneer them, but I'm not into that just yet.

Or, I could paint them satin black after filling the pores with auto body putty.

Either way, I was going to spray them with Spies Hecker or DuPont auto clear coat and rub them out.

Anyone try this?

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problem with auto paint on wood is that it chips easy.....it could look fantastic...but just needs kid glove handling....rounding off the edges with a router before painting to get rid of sharp edges helps prevent edge chiping. most paints allow 15% thinning, which I would recommend so that it soaks deeper into the wood.

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Yes, that's a small sub, It's only about an 18 or 19 inch cube. I have 2 at home you could fit in and one that I built for my sons van that a couple of people could get in. The paint is just an automotive paint, base coat, clearcoat finish. I built the cabinet and bondo'd all the screw holes as well as any imperfections in the box. I had a friend spray it for me. All the exterior corners were hit with a round over bit.

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I was an automotive refinisher for 25 years and have walls covered in show car throphies... I've also been a klipsch restorer for almost as long . My advise if your going to " Rub out " any finish on wood is to watch the " heat " generated when polishing . You'll raise the grain which will appear in the finish more like a craze or crack . I've done 100 of guitars and drum kits over the years .

MDF is very stable to finish in automotive Arylic Urathane but plywood is a crap shoot ...

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Now you all have me thinking of finishing my sub the same way. Although I have never used an Automotive paint.

I have a sonotube sealed sub I am building and would like to atleast have that gorgeous looking silk black(piano finish) on the MDF pieces. I just recently sprayed them with some flat black paint because I got tired of looking at the MDF color. Although I have only done one of the 2.

I was at the local store here and they had fiberglass resin compound that I thought would be good for the sides. Anyways I'll shut up now. this isn't my thread but now I have alot of questions for Dale and others. How do you prep the MDF for the first coat of ....???........primer I guess?

I have never done something like this so please explain if anyone can or pm me. Thanks and sorry to ask so many questions on someone else's thread.

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Now you all have me thinking of finishing my sub the same way. Although I have never used an Automotive paint.

I have a sonotube sealed sub I am building and would like to atleast have that gorgeous looking silk black(piano finish) on the MDF pieces. I just recently sprayed them with some flat black paint because I got tired of looking at the MDF color. Although I have only done one of the 2.

I was at the local store here and they had fiberglass resin compound that I thought would be good for the sides. Anyways I'll shut up now. this isn't my thread but now I have alot of questions for Dale and others. How do you prep the MDF for the first coat of ....???........primer I guess?

I have never done something like this so please explain if anyone can or pm me. Thanks and sorry to ask so many questions on someone else's thread.

Prep is simple , all your after is mechanical adheasion, so 240 - 180 grit on wood will give you plenty of tooth to grip any 2 component primer ... Once you sand out the primer you can go as fine as 320 to recoat with primer if needed . Finish sanding with P400 dry or 600 wet will give you a nice base for the finish to be applied ...

Wet sanding the clear coat with 1200 - 1500 grit to knock off texture , dirt, etc will facilitate a flattened out finish suitable for power polishing to a gleeming finish ... be extra carefull when polishing near edges , you can and will burn through the finish if your not carefull .

Dale

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