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Fisher 500c


fini

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Well, the Flea Market Gods have been good to me again. Last Sunday, while perusing the local flea, I stumbled upon an unbelievable find: in a custom-built case were a Fisher 500c, and behind a door, a pull-out Garrard model 50 turntable, everything with all the paperwork. The turntable even had the original paper disc describing features and operation. All tubes are original marked "Fisher." And it works! Don't be mad when I tell you how much I paid: $65.

I've done a bit of research on bringing the 500c up to snuff, and would like some opinions on the options. The "Cadillac" approach (very expensive) would be to take it to Vacuum Tube Valley (about 1 1/2 hr. away) and have them do it. Probably won't do this one...I'm too damn cheap. Option 2 would be a restoration kit from either VTV or The Fisher Doctor. The third option would be to make up my own kit, with the help of our resident tube guru, mdeneen (I haven't contacted him yet...I'll seek his advice personally, too).

Has anyone here had experiences with these choices? I believe it was Jobman (or Jazzman??) that had his 500c repaired at VTV, and reported he'd do it differently if he had it to do again.

Oh, the Fisher is also missing two brass knob caps (a common problem), and I've located new replacements at The Fisher Doctor.

Thanks, fini

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Fini,

Get the Vacuum Tube Valley back issue that covers the Fisher 500's. They give directions for a basic rebuild - simple and cheap. Just like a little laundry list. Wiring diagram is included.

I would add one thing to their list of "to do's" and thats change the -17 grid bias voltage on the power tubes to about -20/-21. Very important. All you have to do is change one resistor. The resistor to be changed is located right by the big brown bias cap in the left rear of the upsidedown chassis (change this cap too, in your restoration). Use your voltmeter to find the -17v going to the power tubes and trace it back (pin 5, if memory serves me). Play with resistor values till the desired voltage is acheived. I set mine at -20.5V. If you raise the grid bias voltage a little bit, your power tubes will last MUCH longer and run MUCH cooler.

I rebuilt my own 500c this way and it's basically bulletproof. BTW, I used the excellent orange drop capacitors for my bypass caps, available from Antique Electronic Supply.

Regards,

Andy

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Fini:

AWESOME fine, and an incredible price.

It was me that had my 500C rebuilt at VTV. They did excellent work. Eric Barbour is a tube guru. There were some problems with mine, like 2 bad sockets. I also went for upgraded caps, ect... (and a 1 year guarantee)

However, what I did not like was how the price for the repair kept rising. I almost told them to keep it. I could never sell it for what I now have into it. (Although I doubt I will ever sell it, especially with the new cabinet I just got!)

Fisher Doctor is very good, but books stuff about a year in advance, and Paul at BuzzyBee is about 6 months ahead.

VTV does have the kits, and he has a lot of OEM stuff for these units, including tubes and knobs, ect...

Anyway, Klipschguy is right about what you NEED to change, and there is tons of info over at the AA board, if you search for 500C. The VTV article on Fisher is very good. If you don't want to buy it. ($15 I think), I can copy mine for you.

Mdeneen should be the right guy to help you get it changed over and up to spec.

I look forward to hearing how you like the sound.

Mike

( I need to get out to the flea market more often!)

Honest honey, it wasn't that expensive!

------------------

1977 K-Horns

Wright Sound 2A3 Monoblocks

AMC CVT 1030 PreAmp

Jolida 602A CD

Thorens TD-165

Silverline Speaker Cables

Various Monster Interconnects.

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Andy and Mike-Thanks for the imput. I ordered the VTV issue on the Fisher yesterday, and today added some NOS knob caps to the order. I'll consult mdeneen when he gets back in town, to hopefully supervise the upgrade (I'll need it, too. If you recall, I screwed-up my K77-M diaphragm replacement.).

As-is, it sounded much warmer than the Nakamichi SS unit I've been using to drive the CW's. Actually, it was a bit "mushy," which I'll bet will improve with the upgrade (and probably clears up as you wear it in).

fini

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