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KLF 20 Upgrades


Craig Anticich

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Good for you Craig. Welcome to the forum you have a great set of speakers. If the Ti tweeter diaphragms have made you happy just think about what Ti mid diaphragms will do. You could also consider damping your horns on the inside of the cabinet with a layer of Duct seal or rope caulk you might even consider some mid horn braces to stiffen up the walls as they are on the thin side and do flex. Welcome aboard best regards Moray James.

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Actually, I drove 2.5 hours to Bob's location with the speakers and he did the work for me, tested them when finished for a very reasonable labor charge. Didn't want to attempt myself at risk of screwing them up!

Craig,

It was good to meet you. Welcome to the Klipsch forum. Yours were the first KLF-20s I had actually heard. I have a pair of KLF-30s and really expected to find the bass to be less on the KLF-20s. As a pleasant surprise, the KLF-20s do bass with the best of them. Excellent speakers.

Bob Crites

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  • 1 year later...

I am interestd in ti midrange diaphrams for my KLF 30's(I use ti tweets). I will also use dynamat on the horns inside as the plastic seams thin. I have a late 2001 pair, so the cabinets never needed glue, and there is double bracing factory.

How do I order ti mids? Anyone have the phone & part number? Im thinking about getting the entire driver since I read the diaphram alone is almost as expensive.

Also**- I removed my midrange horn in one speaker last year to fix a orange gasket hanging a little over. When I put the horn back in one screw stripped a little while tightening.WHAT IS THE BEST WAT TO GET THE SCREW TIGHT NEXT TIME I PUT IT BACK ON? Should I consider internal inserts and use reg screws instead?

Also, is there any chance my mids are stock poly like the tweeters, or was that in just some earlier KLF models? How does Crites mis stack up to stock & the ti's? When I emailed Bob, he replied his were no better then stock...just replacements if they go bad.

Thanks for any help

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Personally I do not see any point in buying new motors. You won't get new snouts with the motors so you gain zero. Wrap about three or four layers of skived teflon tape, the thin white stuff plumbers use on black gas pipe around the threads of the snout. That will make them snug and sound. Be more careful when you thread the motors onto the horns and you will be fine. Your mid diphragms are phenolic as far as I am aware there is no such thing as a poly mid diaphragm.

I found Bob's new phenolic mid diaphragms to be better than the stock phenolic diaphragms but no not close to the ti mids. You might want to send me a PM. Best regards Moray James.

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around $186.00 the pair from service, they do not sell for upgrade only for service. I have installed Ti mids in Forte , Forte ll, Hersey, two pair of KLF20 and a set of Quartet's If that counts for anything and they sound excellent the slight difference in response is not an issuue to me at all zero none nada zip. If you don't like them I would be happy to buy them off of you. Best regards Moray James.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok I'm new to the party. I have a set of KLF 20s that I've owned since new in 1998 and never felt a need to screw with them...until I came across this site, of course. So, these upgrades: what's the deal? Is there truly an audible difference? In other words, is it worth risking taking my speakers apart?

If it helps, the music I listen to is a broad range of rock/country/americana at moderate volume.


Thanks

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Per my post awhile back, i had Bob Crites upgrade the crossovers and install the titanium diaphragms in the tweeters and I was amazed at the difference. Cleaner, fuller sound. More extended highs and much more solid bass at least to my ears. I was actually on the verge of replacing them but now with this upgrade will probably keep them for another 10 years. I also had the same work done on the center channel ( CF- 20??, don't have in front of me) and same results. I live near Bob so had him do the work but it didn't appear overly difficult. Mainly removed one of the woofers to access the crossover and removed the tweeter to install the diaphragm. No opening the cabinet itself otherwise.

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I have only upgraded all my KLF (30/20/c7) titamium tweeters, but honestly can say the difference in just that upgrade was huge. The stock tweeter diaphrams lack extension and sound harsh and muddy IMO. I can't say on the mid range and cross over, because these speakers sound so good to me already, not sure its worth messing with right now. I do believe mid ti's would take these to a fantastic level though.

I am still planning on buying some from Klipsch, just got into another project right now.

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YES. that's the short answer. What to do? first off your KLF20 came stock with poly tweeter diaphragms which I am sorry to tell you are the worst diaphragms Klipsch have ever used as far as I know. Change them at the very leadt for a phenolic or much better a set of Crites Titanium disphragns as soon as he hs them back in stock. I would also recommend that you change the phenolic mid diaphragms to the Klipsch titaniums as well it is a world of difference. After that ou should be considering some brace work to reinforce your cabinets. Before you do that though you should pull the drivers and use a rubber mallet and whack the crap out of your baffles front and back to see it they are loose which is fairly likely. If not great you lucked out, if they are loose well then removing the baffles to re install them makes adding the brace work much easier to do. If your baffles are loose then you now have the option to decide if you want to have the vents on the front or on the back baffle . You can take a look at the link attached to see what this looks like it is not difficult to do. You can also add a small box extensiopn to the bottom or the cabinet (cut out the stock bottom so the volumes combine) this increases your cabinet volume (deeper bass) and more importantly raises the height of the centre of the mid horn you wnat it at your seated ear level whid will be around 38 inches off the floor.

After you do your wood work you can then do your damping. You can als have your networks upgraded with new capacitors I willl suggest Bob Crites for this now and in a year or so when you are ready for the final assualt on performance you can go nuts on the crossovers so consider that a separate project. I would suggest they you modify all your drivers (horns too and comp drivers) as well but this is a bit of a job and should be doneonce all the dirty work has be finished.

Ok the upshot of all of this will be a loudspeaker that you cah compare directly to factory loudspeakers which would easily be in the 10K and plus range. Your ability to resolve detail will be world class your personal envolvement with your music will beyond your wildest dreams come true. The sense of accomplishment when you are done is priceless. I hope that this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

PS: perhaps those who have done some modification work will chime in with their findings.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=372783&highlight=klf20 brace work on a set of quartet and a set of KLF20

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YES. that's the short answer. What to do? first off your KLF20 came stock with poly tweeter diaphragms which I am sorry to tell you are the worst diaphragms Klipsch have ever used as far as I know. Change them at the very leadt for a phenolic or much better a set of Crites Titanium disphragns as soon as he hs them back in stock. I would also recommend that you change the phenolic mid diaphragms to the Klipsch titaniums as well it is a world of difference. After that ou should be considering some brace work to reinforce your cabinets. Before you do that though you should pull the drivers and use a rubber mallet and whack the crap out of your baffles front and back to see it they are loose which is fairly likely. If not great you lucked out if so well removing the baffles to er install them makes ding the brace work much easier to do. If you baddles are loose then you now have the option to decide if you want to have the vents on the front or on the back baffle . You can take a look at the link attached to see what this looks like it is not difficult to do. You can also add a small box extensiopn to the bottom or the cabinet (cut out the stock bottom so the volumes combine) this increases your cabinet volume (deeper bass) and more importantly raises the height of the centre of the mid horn you wnat it at your seated ear level whid will be around 38 inches off the floor.

After you do your wood work you can then do your damping. You can als have your networks upgraded with new capacitors I willl suggest Bob Crites for this now and in a year or so when you are ready for the final assualt on performance you can go nuts on the crossovers so consider that a separate project. I would suggest they you modify all your drivers (horns too and comp drivers) as well but this is a bit of a job and should be doneonce all the dirty work has be finished.

Ok the upshot of all of this will be a loudspeaker that you cah compare directly to factory loudspeakers which would easily be in the 10K and plus range. Your ability to resolve detail will be world class your personal envolvement with your music will beyond your wildest dreams come true. The sense of accomplishment when you are done is priceless. I hope that this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

PS: perhaps those who have done some modificatio work will chime in with their findings.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=372783&highlight=klf20 brace work on a set of quartet and a set of KLF20

Thanks. I don't understand the bracing. Are you saying that as they came from the factory the speaker boxes were not rigid enough? I doubt I'll be cutting out the bottoms and adding more wood, I don't see how that could match. I feel a bit like I was just told "Yes, that BMW's a fine car, but if you replaced the engine, the suspension, the transmission and the brakes, and stiffened the frame, THEN you'd have something....

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