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My first Pro Gear


Brac

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I have owned alot of Klipsch Gear in my time, This is my first purchase of Pro Gear. I have 2 non-working tweets and 1 mid, so time for bit of troubleshooting. I have no understanding of pro gear as far as hook ups, if someone could explain what I'm looking at I would really appreciate it. I have been busy as all heck so I haven't even checked fuses, gonna do that now.

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Thanks, I thought I turned it but it didn't save. I have taken apart one of the separate tops, I see how the inputs work. It has an AA network that looks a bit blah, the K-55 is 10.5 ohms and the k-77 is 7.1 ohms.

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AA's are fine for a BBQ, block party, etc. If your going to cover a school prom, then you need AL-3's or universals. The one piece LaScala's sound even better with the top of the dog house cut out and backs enclosed with the base ports.

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Can the AA's be modded into one of those without a huge expense? Have a drawing of that Mod for the one piece? Not sure what I'm doing with any of them yet. The WAF is not there for HT or living room use.

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didn't we do this already? looks like a LSI split flanking a LSI. This is just one side right? I thought the mail you sent me was just the LSI with extra LF cabinets. If you're using it all LOUDLY, biamping would be the way to go, which would require a big of mod to the all-in-one cabs, just need to pull a point to plug the woofer section into. Use the normal IN jacks on split HF and all-in-one to hit the mid/high horns. GOOD BUY mang, you got a deal there my friend. Not coindidentally, my first pro Klipsch was also LSI splits, drove up to Picky's in Detroit area to claim them. They were pretty spendy but minty fibreglass. I've been through a few sets of them but still have a nice 5-pack of LSI-BG splits. Keeping the original networks, I have AA and AL in mine I think. Have seen them with AL3, but you'd only really want that if you had the K55M driver. s

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Colter, yes this is the deal we talked about but what he had was different from the pics (pics didn't show the other top sections). So after some testing I have 2 non-working tweeters, the one in the picture doesn't seem to have any insulators, not sure how to fix that one, or if I could find a front plate for it? Then I have 1 non-working mid. BC's website says he does not have the tweeter diaphrams but I see a guy selling them on ebay at $20 each. (springfield speaker repair)

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buying loose coils is not the best approach....they don't perform anywhere near as good as OEM pre-mounted repair kits. The pre-mounted kits allow you to replace the coil/motor assembly with no soldering and perfect alignment of the coils. These pre-mounted kits are pre-tested.

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Mike, Thanks for the heads up , that solves the problem of it having no insulators. Just called Kilpsch and placed the order. The kit for the mid was over $100 so I didn't order that one, I've seen complete drivers with horns sell for that.

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So, believe it or not, I was messing around and moving stuff around in the shop today and if I sell the KLF-10's the stacks will have a place to live. SWMBO has no say what goes on in the shop, hehehehe

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Just did a search, looking for the "A" network, but instead found where BC had posted the "AA". I see the diodes on that schematic, is what Mike posted above based on the A as opposed to the AA? What I have matches this. (taken from Bob's post)

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I concur with getting the pre-mounted K77 diaphram from Klipsch. The loose diaphram is VERY Fragile and the tinsel leads to attach will melt very easily if you're not spot on with the solder iron. $39 each probably? Worth it if you don't burn one up. I always run a card or piece of tape around the voice coil gap before reassembly to remove any small particles from destroyed voice coil/former that might be in there.

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