Coytee Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Putting this here since this forum gets more traction than the other. Here's a picture of an input cup for a double driver MWM bass cabinet. I already have a pair of singles. When I double up my singles, I take a short jumper and connect the two inputs and then use one channel of my Crown K2 to power it. Other channel of the K2 has gone to the K402 sitting on top or perhaps even the LaScala, allowing the passive in the LaScala take care of crossover duty to it. If I were to obtain a couple double bins in addition to the two singles I already own, what to do... How do you wire multiple cabinets on a single channel? Meaning, I'm wondering on adding the single to each side giving three drivers per stack. If I did that, would I use jumpers to connect the three cabinets to each other and then feed them a single channel of a K2 or, would I bridge the K2 to afford the trio of woofers more power? Would I instead, use one channel of the K2 for the double bin and the other channel of the K2 for the single bin? The theoretical setup would be: Double bass bin on ground. Single bass bin sitting on top giving three 15" drivers per channel. Atop of that would be a midbass unit and on top of that a tweeter unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 You can wire parallel 4ohm or series 16ohm. Since you have your singles wired parallel, then I'd say do the same here. It's (+) to (+)(+) and (-) to (-)(-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I thought it was + to + and - to - for everything. Series is + to -. . In series the omh go up and in parallel they go down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kg4guy Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Another option would be to daisy chain another amp it would be 4 ohm so you would have to adjust the output of the K2 running the 2 ohm load on the dual stacks to balance them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I thought it was + to + and - to - for everything. Series is + to -. . In series the omh go up and in parallel they go down. You can wire parallel 4ohm or series 16ohm. Since you have your singles wired parallel, then I'd say do the same here. It's (+) to (+)(+) and (-) to (-)(-) That is what I said.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 Another option would be to daisy chain another amp it would be 4 ohm so you would have to adjust the output of the K2 running the 2 ohm load on the dual stacks to balance them. You could do it all with one amp if you serial/parallel them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 Since you have your singles wired parallel, then I'd say do the same here. It's (+) to (+)(+) and (-) to (-)(-) Ok, so you would take a signal line from an amp to say the bottom input. Run a jumper from the bottom + to the + sitting above it and another + sitting above that, doing the same with the negatives. Would you run this off a SINGLE channel of a K2 or would you bridge the amp? (this is a territory that is totally foreign to me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 I just found this link. Without a doubt the prettiest and in-depth webpage concerning speaker wiring and impedance. http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm If you have tons of subs, then you need to be able to level the gain, delay etc. on them, etc. That to me is the determining factor of how many channels you use with multi amps and bridging etc. You could bridge the amp and run everything you have off it, but how would you control the levels and delays? Using stereo mode from the amp, you could have two stacks with different gain levels and delay levels. I think the website above provides enough detail on the actual wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 I just found this link. Without a doubt the prettiest and in-depth webpage concerning speaker wiring and impedance. http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm Nice read mustang guy, Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smashwuf Posted September 15, 2013 Share Posted September 15, 2013 FWIW, I have each MWM cabinet on a single bridged Crown K2. With the Original K-33 drivers, it was too easy to blow the drivers. Now I have Eminence Lab15's int here, and I don;t blow drivers, as long as I am not over-driving and clipping the amp. Basically, when loading a Crown K2, as long as you don't see the yellow and /or red LED's come on on the front, you are generally OK. The K's will go don to 2 Ohms per channel and still be stable, but only 4 Ohms in bridged mode. The number of drivers you put on each amp channel is not unlimited. The more you add, the more current the amplifier must provide, regardless of impedance, and wiring arrangement. Also onsider what happens when a driver fails. If you have a complex array of drivers, consider what will hapen to the overall impedance and thus voltage/amp draw if each driver were to fail open circuit. Will any single failure cause your overall impedance to fall below the amp threshold, or cause an overload condition? Setting up complex arrays of drivers can still work, but you can also set yourself up for a cascade failure condition if you have too many stacked series in parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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