Paul29 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Modification Filter: in orde of influence on overall sounding First thing is to remove both 2,2 uF caps. 1ste:Replace the capacitors and can change value and quality. Highest grade will be fine Two 2.0 uF : I changed to > 2.2 pio > a 4Uf MKV > now a 10uF kimbercap ( hovland musicap mundorf jensen we have choice..) Forget the older -Only- paperinoil 8-10uF on this spot .... Tweeter 2.0 uF cap: > 3 on T2A > changed to 2,2 pio jensenmundorf paper in oil 33uF woofer Woofer cap: Changed the 33 uF to a 50uF BG 2de: replace the wiring with f.e Cardas bulk wire 3de: replace the autotransformer with a f.e. Aletheia Crite one if living in the usa or double core from germany. Due to eu- taxation = because banks and multinationals pay no taxes ( Google pays 0,022% - Apple 1,9% ) so have to pay the part they do not pay- but should ( all our infrastructure education schools health care, us army nsa cia bureaucracy ) only two autotransformers 119$ in this case. 3654 autotransformers are $62.00. 4th :change the 3,3 mH with f.e. a Trafokerncoil or E-Kern with 1,5mm wiring or I-Kern 1,12mm wiring- Beewaxed one. 5th :add some thin damping to the back of the Heresy - a nice&simple upgrade- and smoothes/eases the bass to great extent. 6th: replace the tinned strips- barrier strips with ..solder directly onto a strips of copper ..goldened ..tinned silvered. Minor: quality of upgrades exceed quality of speaker and horn units. tubelectron gave me guidance/ hint to change the 1ste 2,2 to a larger supreme or excellent cap with a 12R resistor to the 5 of TA2. Resistor is not my choice after listening longer > <script charset="UTF-8" src="chrome://hdv/content/hdv.js" type="application/javascript"> </script> Edited February 23, 2015 by Paul29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) He claims that there is a rise in response of 15dB due to the rise in impedance, which is not true - there is no 15dB peak. At any rate, you can flatten the impedance by adding a 15 ohm resistor in parallel with the midrange driver and changing the 2uF to a 1uF at the primary position. If you want a 3dB reduction in midrange output, drop the midrange connection on the autoformer down a tap, in which case the 2uF primary cap can stay the same. Best sound will be achieved by using paper in oil capacitors. As for autoformers, I asked the folks who build these units to design one for me as if they were designing one for their own use. The new unit is wound with larger gauge wire, has a larger core, and is dropped in wax as opposed to varnish, which can't remove all of the air between the windings. I understand the advantages of the C-core design, but I think the new unit competes very favorably with it, and maintains the ability to adjust in increments of 1dB. I think the benefits of flattening out the impedance are grossly overstated. I've built just about every different way imaginable, and I'm running bone stock over here. I use very good parts, and to my ears, the sound is more natural and transparent if you leave the impedance the hell alone. Edited February 16, 2015 by DeanG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I think the benefits of flattening out the impedance are grossly overstated. Probably helps more if you are using lower powered tube gear... Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Not really, because it results in a 3dB net loss in amplifier power, which translates into half of what you have. IOWs, your 3 watt amp becomes a 1.5 watt amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Ok, maybe I should have just said "tubes". I am not planning on using my 2A3 amps on my Heresy IIs. I thought you liked the swamped mid. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul29 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) Respect/ hat off to Dean for his comment insights and approach to music and listening , what a beauty the filter with flat band coil all Jupiter beewax..a.s.o.envy the thing Looking at the jupiter filter might use higher quality spades- wiring - two screw connectionsblocks not be a wise investment which supports the quality of caps and coils..?. These spades and two screw connecting blocks on my E2 are pure disastersoundwises.. made out of zinc and ..? Lighter and silvered/ goldened ones would be to my taste. I replaced with selfmade strip of pure copper cause could not find any replacements and even a heresy rewards this with less noise : be it black-white -pink noise(.... could not see its colour nor distinguish them to characterize...) Often it's what you don't seem to hear.....is a contradictio in terminis .... as with overtones still hear/ perceive/ discern them subconsciously... Edited February 16, 2015 by Paul29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 (edited) Bruce, if one wants the ability to attenuate without having to change some parts in the filter with each adjustment, then you need the swamping resistor (now, there is another way, where the resistor isn't needed, but I haven't pursued it). Up until recently, the swamping resistor was required primarily for two reasons. The first was simply for those who wanted to knock a little off of the midrange. Almost without exception, people were using taps 4 and X on the Universal and taps 5 and 2 on the Super AA. These settings translated to a 3dB drop in output. The second reason was for those who were trying different horns and drivers, and needed the feature to dial things in. In both cases. I really see it more as a convenience feature. Look, If you know the sensitivity and impedance of the driver at the crossover point, have the information about the horn, and know something about what the listener likes, then you can build a much better sounding network. You do the math, fix the attenuation, and scale the parts accordingly. I've built a half dozen pairs for the BMS/Volti combo and two for the Elliptrac/B&C combo. People who like the lively energetic presentation of horns prefer -12dB. Those who prefer a more laid back presentation prefer -15dB. It's not difficult, you just have to spend some time with a person and let them tell you what they like. I can build a first order filter using Jensens or Jupiters for the same amount as the SuperX. Let me ask you, would you trade the ability to fiddle with a couple of wires to get a richer, cleaner sound? There are several here who have dumped their SuperXs or Universals for the simpler builds with the Jensens or Jupiters, but we all know that this isn't the place to talk about the effect a capacitor has on the sound - so they don't! Using the resistor to allow for on the fly attenuation forces you to use a very large primary capacitor because you've swamped the whole network down to a much lower impedance. There are very few high quality (good sounding) large value capacitors on the market, and the ones that are available, simply do not sound as good as the Jensens or Jupiters - not even close. I provide the SuperX because in my opinion, it sounds better than anything available priced below it, and there is a healthy demand for it -- but it doesn't sound as rich and transparent to me as the other builds. Most always choose the ability to adjust over my word about the sound and effect of the parts. It drives me nuts, because I know they'll adjust for an extra 3dB down to compensate for the effect of the low loss parts, and then they'll never touch the network again. It'll sound much better than what they had, but it could have been much better for not much more money. I think swamping the whole network down is really unnecessary. It limits the sound quality (because of parts choice) and provides a feature that really isn't needed if you have all of the information you need to build with fixed attenuation. Finally, the people who design amplifiers understand that loudspeaker impedance fluctuates with frequency, and amplifiers are specifically designed to deal with this - that's exactly what amplifiers do, it's no big deal -- amplifiers really don't care what impedance they "see". This idea that amplifiers are happier seeing a constant impedance is silly -- well, unless the amplifier is a total piece of junk. Edited February 16, 2015 by DeanG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul29 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) question.... What brand and awg wiring use if replace excisting klipsch wiring...? I have changed in one heresy - to compare left right - to cardas much too expensive - but good to know with a new clonewall or cornscala in mind for the future -- but more refined -purer higher octaves- in sound. Because a tube amp drives them easier to discriminate. Of course the 2- screw connecting blocks out of zinc or tinned content - zinc is excellent for my gutter - are gone as well to get all out of the new wiring. Anyone.... Edited February 17, 2015 by Paul29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 They are tin-plated brass. The screws should be replaced, they're steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Great, I quit fixating over that five years ago, now I have to start over. I use the barrier strip from parts express. What I like about that part is that it has a metal plate beneath the screw that digs in and deforms the connector as it gets tightened down. A simple screw doesn't really get it done as far as I'm concerned - all that work to get these great connections, and then a screw that typically starts vibrating loose almost soon as you lift the screwdriver out of the slot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Paul, a high quality wire without the ridiculous price tag is the Supra Classic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul29 Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 (edited) Thanks you both....can have a coffee at my place anytime ... What Gauge (s) is are used in other Klipsch ........? Giving it a though about the awg for horns and bass Any use in using different gauge say f.e. 11.5 for the bass and 17.5 for mid and high.......? In other Klipschies do they use different awg...or just one gauge...? Edited February 19, 2015 by Paul29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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