Gregorius Posted September 20, 2002 Share Posted September 20, 2002 Greetings Gentlemen, How exactly are the oil finishes applied at Klipsch? Any input HDBR? Do they use linseed oil, tung oil? how many coats? Just curious? Regards, Greg ------------------ HK AVR20 II Toshiba DVD 32" Toshiba TV Odyssey Stratos 1987 Khorns Mains 1976 LaScala's Rears KV-1 Center KSW-12 Sub Two-Channel Fisher 800C Receiver 1987 Khorns Teac CDP Pioneer TT This message has been edited by Gregorius on 09-20-2002 at 03:14 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klipschguy Posted September 20, 2002 Share Posted September 20, 2002 I believe Klipsch uses boiled linseed oil mixed with turpentine for their oil finish. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BobG Posted September 20, 2002 Share Posted September 20, 2002 Oil finishes were recently discontinued in favor of lacquer finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Reed Posted September 20, 2002 Share Posted September 20, 2002 Boooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ! Hiss ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted September 20, 2002 Share Posted September 20, 2002 I prefer an oil finish on wood like walnut, rosewood, and the like...but on oak, for instance, I prefer a polyurethane finish. Oiled finishes are more maintenance intensive than a laquer/polyurethane finish...but the maintenance for oil finish is simple and sporadic in needed application. The oil finish is messy and time consuming(therefore labor intensive) and is being eliminated by most speaker makers and furniture companies now-a-days in favor of "spray and forget" finishes. Another reason is EPA rulings for disposal of contaminants...plastic gloves, rubbing pads, etc. Traditional oil finish used by fine furniture manufacturers was generally boiled linseed oil, sometimes with a touch of stain added (for the particular veneer/wood type being oiled)...and often diluted to aid in its evaporation and absorption so that it can be rubbed in sooner...and be ready for packing and shipping quicker. One of the most "secret" techniques to get the "antique patina" look out of figured hard maple in new furniture or gunstocks is to take twice-boiled dark amber linseed oil and add to it the finely powdered ashes of white oak (gotta sift those ashes, though)...rubbing this in over a few applications...the result appears to be over a century old in patina appearance...quite beautiful!! Earlier versions of oil finishes were just boiled linseed oil, with no thinner added...apply one coat, rub it in, wait overnite, rub it more, apply second coat(as needed) repeat process up to three times, normally. Pigment became commonly added (ie., stain) when veneers got to a point they weren't hand-selected and color-matched in the industry...adding the pigment or stain allowed the finish to always look about the same in color...no matter how light the wood color actually was...this especially applies to black walnut...and darker colored woods of that nature. ------------------ I can now receive private messages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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